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Engine colour question?


potto
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9 minutes ago, nh014 said:

Obviously a personal choice, but I've always liked gloss black on the frame, satin black on the engine, and flat black on the exhaust for my 348's

Thanks yes have flat blacked the exhaust cause that's the way the VHT ceramic paint was anyway,engine will be as you mentioned,may paint the frame another colour as black is too yesterday,I need to fix the frame in more ways than one .....horrible past owner repairs:(.

Cheers Dean.

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11 hours ago, potto said:

I need to fix the frame in more ways than one .....horrible past owner repairs:(

You'll get there, just keep doing a little at a time. On the 247 the rear shocks are held by circlips, I found I could tap the mounts M8 and used button head cap screws - no chance of a circlip coming off now,

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On 09/02/2018 at 9:14 AM, evoalien said:

Any paint on the engine will make it run hotter. Keep that in mind

Kirchoff's laws of radiation make it evident that a BLACK body is not only a perfect ABSORBER but also a PERFECT EMITTER of heat. Hence a black cylinder will cool down faster than a natural finish one.

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5 hours ago, oldaz said:

Kirchoff's laws of radiation make it evident that a BLACK body is not only a perfect ABSORBER but also a PERFECT EMITTER of heat. Hence a black cylinder will cool down faster than a natural finish one.

Learned something new today. 

Makes sense being that automotive radiators are black as well.

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There is a law of diminishing returns when painting something black because all paint acts as an insulator, so while a single thin coat of matt black may well increase the efficiency of heat transfer compared with bare metal, above a certain thickness of paint, the overall heat transfer efficiency will start reducing

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13 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

There is a law of diminishing returns when painting something black because all paint acts as an insulator, so while a single thin coat of matt black may well increase the efficiency of heat transfer compared with bare metal, above a certain thickness of paint, the overall heat transfer efficiency will start reducing

Thanks again,engine will be essentially stripped of paint before repainting,well versed with this being a car restorer and aircooled guy,honestly I wouldn't be bothering with these but as its engine out to repair the frame it makes little sense not to,besides I 'am thinking the frame is worse than it looks....really.

Cheers Dean.

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2 hours ago, potto said:

Thanks again,engine will be essentially stripped of paint before repainting,well versed with this being a car restorer and aircooled guy,honestly I wouldn't be bothering with these but as its engine out to repair the frame it makes little sense not to,besides I 'am thinking the frame is worse than it looks....really.

Cheers Dean.

I don't think I've ever heard of a 348 that hasn't developed a frame problem with use. I've got two bent 348 frames (I think from frontal impact) and one really rusty 348 frame that might be bent or cracked but I haven't looked. A friend originally from South Africa rode a 348 in trials over there that someone had modified the steering head angle to INCREASE the rake to make it a better enduro bike (in their opinion). Seen plenty with cracks near the headstock too. The lower shock mounts on my ride 348 are 1/2" UNC bolts that someone welded on in place of the elegant (but obviously not strong enough) original shock mounts.

Edited by feetupfun
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9 hours ago, potto said:

Thanks again,engine will be essentially stripped of paint before repainting,well versed with this being a car restorer and aircooled guy,honestly I wouldn't be bothering with these but as its engine out to repair the frame it makes little sense not to,besides I 'am thinking the frame is worse than it looks....really.

Cheers Dean.

I got the head and barrel hydro-blasted to get rid of the years of mud, paint, corrosion and more paint so I could work on the new head studs without getting covered in crap, then gave them a coat of hi-temp matt black - looks nice now.

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7 hours ago, oldaz said:

I got the head and barrel hydro-blasted to get rid of the years of mud, paint, corrosion and more paint so I could work on the new head studs without getting covered in crap, then gave them a coat of hi-temp matt black - looks nice now.

That's a great method,in reality mine will be just hard graft ,the last crappy paintjob on the motor is failing off anyway,around the fins on barrel and head will be the hardest I feel.

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7 hours ago, potto said:

That's a great method,in reality mine will be just hard graft ,the last crappy paintjob on the motor is failing off anyway,around the fins on barrel and head will be the hardest I feel.

I tried many options to clean the fins, but couldn't get into the main part of the casting well enough and the white corrosion just didn't want to cooperate enough. The hydro-blast took all the corrosion, mud and 99% of the paint off back to bare metal - I was tempted to leave it plain, but that wouldn't be original. Engine finally going back together now.

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