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Jumping out of 2nd Gear


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It happens because the bike is not going into second gear properly. I've found that this is usually caused by the clutch dragging slightly even with the lever pulled fully in to the bars. Bleed the clutch to make sure that there is no air in the clutch hydraulic system, and it’s worthwhile trying a different gear oil from the one you’re currently using.

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My ‘13 300 has done this since I got it new. Betas have always shifted notchy but this jumping out of second is something that was never an issue on the other Betas I’ve had and I’ve had quite a few. I learned to be very dilligent in making sure the shift into second felt like all the bits are moved into place but if I take a half hearted stab at the shifter going from neutral or first into second it often pops out and hilarity ensues. Well for my friends watching anyway.

I also have a new ‘18 that I’m prepping for the season. I’ve had it out a few times to test and break it in and the shifting is like buttah! Just a tap and it snicks into gear. I’ve looked over the parts manuals for both years and none of the parts numbers are different  so I assume Beta just beefed up some parts but I don’t know which without disassembling both bikes. The rumor I’ve heard is they thickened the shift forks. I don’t know for certain though.

One avenue I was considering was a heavier spring on the cam that indexes the gearbox but Beta doesn’t use a standard plunger so that wasn’t going to be easy. 

I think you’re just going to have to work around it. The third to second shift does work though it’s a pain to have to use.

Edited by dan williams
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Thanks to you all for your input. I will bleed the clutch and change the gear box oil. Perhaps it has something to do with the clutch not operating correctly as the bike is still cold. It is a bit chilly these days in Ireland as winter is still with us! What I don't understand is that it feels and sounds as if she is fully engaged in second gear but after a few seconds of riding, it pops out into neutral.

Another question, if I may. Should the clutch and brake levers have a fair amount of play in them, before they begin to do what they are designed to do? Trials is completely new to me after spending years on road bikes. I thought it might have something to do with the young lad who I bought the bike from. He may have had small hands.

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On 2/11/2018 at 0:45 PM, inchhigh said:

The  later models are bad for this for some reason my 16 model did this.i got told to change up to 3rd then back to second, and I've never had it do it again

I have ridden Beta`s for years and still do not have a shifting issue. But I remember Beta Uk putting out a Bulletin about it in 2013. I also have a 2016 250 and I shift often while in the sections and have never missed a shift. But I do have a great working clutch due to custom springs I made. So the fact this was happening with a cold clutch could have some merit. Having to  shift up two gears and back down would not always work for me. But if you watch enough video of the would round riders, they do this all the time.

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My 2013 300 2t fell out of second a lot, i would all way's shift to first then second and ride around a bit before entering a section. If i shifted into second from neutral it had a better possibility of happening. It all way's happened soon after making the shift. Didn't seem to matter if it was a warm or cold gearbox. My 2014 3002t and my 2017 2502t have only done it once or twice. My 2016 3004T never.

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Most riders use only the index finger to operate the clutch and front brake whilst riding in sections. If it helps this is how I adjust my levers..

fully unwind the adjuster that's forward of the lever pivot pin. Now undo the lock nut on the plunger adjuster on the back of the lever and wind this pin to remove almost all of the free play. Leave 1-2 MM movement at the tip. (You may find the lock nut is missing)You should now find the lever will stop short of touching the grip by an inch or so. 

Now wind in the adjuster forward of the pivot pin and unwind the plunger pin so that the lever stops just short of the grip but ensuring you still have minimal free play... About 1-2mm movement at the lever tip. 

Now ride the bike...if the clutch bite point is too close to the grip or your knuckles unwind the forward adjuster and take up the free play by winding in the plunger pin. 

If the bite point is still too far out when the lever was adjusted to stop just before the grip, you can 'pinch' a bit of the clutch travel by further adjustment of forward adjuster in, and then unwind the plunger pin to regain free play. Don't go too far in otherwise you'll lose the clutch travel and have a dragging clutch when the lever is pulled tight to the bars to change gear. The adjustment also depends on where your finger sits on the lever. So there will be a bit of trial and error until you feel comfortable. For what it's worth I use fold back levers that are quite short and my index finger sits just inside of the ball end. With the front brake just adjust in the same way to a points where you can reach the lever and pull comfortably in, again leaving 1-2mm free play.

if you don't have free play you'll 'pump up' the master cylinders. 

Other riders may have a different set up procedure but hope this helps

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