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2014 coolant temperature


oaktrials
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I'm testing (finally) the DC-DC setup. I've buy another sample from ebay (cheaper one) and it function. If it will fail in next our i think i will buy a strong CMOS and try a simple replace from the chinese one that is used in the circuit. Maybe there is no difference to tune in the circuit and all work great with also affidability.

I've make some test on the FAN, but what today i miss is the RIGHT voltage read from FAN when under load on the bike (its 12? its 12.5? its 13?) so i need to check this weekend.

What i've done for now:

Connect the FAN and the DC-DC to a standard bike litio battery to avoid fake result due to power supply not adeguate. Charge the battery (it deliver 13.5V with nothing attached).

The fan connected direct to the battery load about 3.3A @ 13.1V

Now The fan connected to the DC:

Input volgate is 12.1-12.3 (it depend on the battery charge left).

On the output side i can read this value:

@13.5V 4,1A

@14V 4.85A

@15V 5.6A

@14.5V 4.9A

@15V 5.25A

@15.5V 5.8A

There is a fluctuation that i can suppose come from the poor DC-DC , maybe at small input voltage variaton the efficiency drop, but what is interested is that the fan at @14.5V is very very faster than at 12.5V.  For a power drain of about +50% (3.3 vs 4.9 > +1.6A).

Now i need t check the bike fan operative voltage, because if it is 12V i thinki that run the fan to 13.5 V is enough to better cooling the radiator!

In this scenario only a + 0.8A is enough.

What need to be tested is if the bike has the ability to power up +1.6A trought the ECU 12V line and if this does not affect other parts. Maybe is more safe to power it up from the RJ (RED) +12V regulator line instead than from the AZ-RJ  +12V REALAY (ECU) Line.

What i can suppose is that +2A must not be a problem, the fuel pump, also the fan and other parts vary a lot their load based on temperature, pressure, and working condition so i think there will no problem to get more 2A from the stator (also there is no light installed on the bike that in the street version was powered up).

I think also that the best way i will choose is to mantein the relay power on the fan, and add the DC-DC boost powered by the regulator line, so i can "boost" the fan simply powering the dc-dc converter, or let it run in the standard way when connected trough the relay.

For more attention i think to install a simple DIODE on the standard relay > fan so the DC-DC current cant go back trought the ECU 

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35 minutes ago, matteo.lavaggi said:

Maybe is more safe to power it up from the RJ (RED) +12V regulator line instead than from the AZ-RJ  +12V REALAY (ECU) Line.

Yes. I think that is a good idea. You probably should have an electrolytic filter capacitor on that line as well.

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Se pratichi motoalpinismo trovo normale che la ventola funzioni di continuo si spegne solo alcune volte nelle lunghe discese.

Smonta il radiatore e  poi fare una pulizia profonda con una macchina ad ultrasuoni potrebbe essere sporco ciao

Edited by ossa68
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Il problema non è la ventola che gira sempre, è la temperatura che sale troppo anche a ventola sempre accesa. In sostanza devo migliorare il raffreddamento ma credo di essere sulla giusta strada. Anche perchè o si mette un radiatore maggiorato oppure si aumenta il flusso d'aria, il resto sono solo modifiche poco influenti (tipo cambiare il liquido ecc).

Una cosa che vorrei provare è usare un radiatore con tappo a pressione maggiore e/o chiuso con valvola di sicurezza come sulle moto da gara, il fatto che la moto sputi fuori liquido sicuramente NON aiuta la dissipazione avendone già molto poco!

 

The problem is not the fan that always runs, it's the temperature that rises too much even when the fan is always on. Basically I have to improve the cooling but I think I'm on the right track. Also because either you put a larger radiator or you increase the air flow, the rest are only minor changes (like changing the liquid, etc.).

One thing I would like to try is using a radiator with a higher pressure cap and / or closed with a safety valve like on race bikes, the fact that the bike sputum out of liquid certainly does not help the dissipation having already very little!

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Il mocool è già diluito, ho usato refrigerante puro, se ne cade una goccia non evapora nemmeno dopo 1 mese, va lavata via con l'acqua . L'unica alternativa che già volevo provare è quella di spessorare un pochino la molla, ma non farà moltissima differenza ho paura, comunque ci proviamo ! Dovrebbe essere glicolene puro, sarà sui 190° la temperatura di ebolizzione!

 

The mocool is already diluted, I have used pure refrigerant, if one drops a drop does not evaporate even after 1 month, it must be washed away with water. The only alternative I already wanted to try is to thicken the spring a little, but it will not make much difference I'm afraid, however we try! It should be pure glycolene, it will be on the 190 ° the boil temperature!

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Se mai bolle in modo anomalo qualcosa non va-la mia si abbassa un centimetro sotto il tappo poi non perde + una goccia di liquido

La ventola fissa è una costante di tutti i trial

Edited by ossa68
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  • 2 weeks later...

i've add a nuts under the spring of the cap. I've not tested the spring preload added, but this can be done with more nuts. In this weekend  will check liquid level to see if there is some improvement.

 

I've also installed a temperature sensore under the spark that light up an indicator on the handlebars from green to red when the head temperature goes over 90°. i've seent that under high load ramp ossa cylinder head go frequently over 90° but its enough wait 30 second in idle to have it back to normale temperature. So i think to tune it up and increase the allert treashold from 90°C to 100°C.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi to all, I'm back after some month to report what I've done. After many test I've arranged one step up DC DC converter and arranged a complete test in different configuration with an Ossa fan. The converter can power up the fan from 12.5v to 16v for more than 2 our with no problem for over heat or protection. 

But before mount on the bike I've made the last test > check the fan voltage on the bike connector, and check the voltage direct from the regulator main line. Expected 12v on fan connector and about 15 volt on main regulator line.... But thi is exactly opposed.

The fan is just operated 14.5 v from the ECU "12v line",and the regulator otherwise only output 12v!!!! So this mean that the ECU has itself and high power DC DC stepup converter. Fan and fuel pump was powered by a stepped up line. What I've found online suppose that the regulator give a +15v (or more) line to the ECU that only regulate and lover it, but is the opposite.

So has no more sense apply for a step up circuit to boost 14.5 to 15.5 o 16v the fan. Speed is increased but not Soo much and go too over fan specifics can drastically lower the fan motor life. 

So waiting the summer to know if I really need this, i've add 3 spaced on the radiator cap, change the tube with silicon one and for now (in winter) I've not boiling problem.if summer create problems I finally try the stepup converter to 16/16.5 volt. 

In the same time I'm working on some radiator side wings...

 

Sorry for English and text I'm on phone ;) 

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Il problema rimane nella posizione del radiatore.

 Anch'io avevo lo stesso problema, ho risolto semplicemente mettendo nel circuito il liquidò della Evans. Costa un bel po' peró a me ha risolto l'ebollizione.

---

translation of the above: I just solved the same problem with Evans coolant.

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