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GixerJ

2011 Beta 290 Cutting Out

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Morning Guys

Looking for help on the cutting out issue on my Beta 290. Bike starts, ticks over no problem, as soon as throttle is added the bike cuts out. This sounds like fuel problem but I have swapped the carb out with no resolution, I also used a catch tank and isolated the fuel tank and the problem is till there.

I have been advised it could be a CDI issue. If anyone has any advise this would be much appreciated

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40 minutes ago, GixerJ said:

Morning Guys

Looking for help on the cutting out issue on my Beta 290. Bike starts, ticks over no problem, as soon as throttle is added the bike cuts out. This sounds like fuel problem but I have swapped the carb out with no resolution, I also used a catch tank and isolated the fuel tank and the problem is till there.

I have been advised it could be a CDI issue. If anyone has any advise this would be much appreciated

Beta specific pages will point you in the right disgnosis direction.

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Not trying to be obtuse but does the carb you swapped work properly on another bike? The Keihin has one peculiarity in that you can assemble it with the needle jet upside down which acts like what you describe. 

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The swapped carb does work.

Prior to the fault the bike was running well. It hadn't  been  used in 5 weeks with the cutting out issue evident after starting.  

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Sorry. Spare carb on problem bike does not fix the issue. Catch  tank added instead of  tank does not fix issue either.

I haven't checked the reeds  or exhaust tho.

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I think you have the last year of the “trigger coil” type ignitions but I’m not inclined to think that’s the problem as bikes with that issue were a real pain to start and when they ran they didn’t just cut out but ran crappy. Is it bogging down on opening the throttle or just dying? If you close the throttle before it stops completely does it come back and idle? 

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I had a rev 3 that acted like that as the stator failed.  It seemed exactly like a carb issue.  Possibly it did not produce enough voltage as the compression pressure went up.  It started out intermittent and got worse.

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On 31/08/2018 at 8:08 PM, dan williams said:

I think you have the last year of the “trigger coil” type ignitions but I’m not inclined to think that’s the problem as bikes with that issue were a real pain to start and when they ran they didn’t just cut out but ran crappy. Is it bogging down on opening the throttle or just dying? If you close the throttle before it stops completely does it come back and idle? 

Hi Dan. When I start to add revs it might get 3 to 4 blips then dies. If throttle is released it still dies. It  takes 3 to 4 kicks to start again and will tick over but dies again with revs. Tried a handful too, but dies quicker.

 

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On 01/09/2018 at 3:16 AM, mcman56 said:

I had a rev 3 that acted like that as the stator failed.  It seemed exactly like a carb issue.  Possibly it did not produce enough voltage as the compression pressure went up.  It started out intermittent and got worse.

Bike was running great before this and nothing has been done maintenance wise that would cause it. Wanted to try did but don't  know anyone with the same bike.

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The problem with the old ignition systems is the trigger coil would get weak. So the firing point would either not happen or more frustratingly happen somewhat randomly or in the wrong location. The plug could show a great strong spark but it  wasn’t a good indication of system health. If it’s starting and idling OK then it’s unlikely to be a CDI as it is not subject to the whole spinning magnet thing of the stator.

The carb swap was a good idea and takes the carb out of the equation. If the reeds look good I’d say you’re pretty much out of choices and need to send that stator out.

 

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Just to be certain of the type of ignition you have the trigger coil stators will have two small windings 180 degrees apart and the flywheel will have to odd looking split magnets 180 degrees apart.

The newer hall effect triggers are a module housed in chamber where the stator wire leaves the case and there will be notches in the outside of the flywheel that pass under the sensor module.

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From my understanding, a common failure of CDIs is that the advance function fails.  They could get stuck in a retarded mode or advanced mode that could explain crappy running but not really a dying engine.  If you have a flywheel puller, you could try fully advancing the timing to see what happens.

That is assuming your model has an advance curve.  I checked a 97 techno that had about 20 or 25 degrees of advance from idle to full scream.  I have a 2008 REV 3 that only has about 6 degrees of advance through that range.  6 degrees is likely due to higher voltages making things happen a little sooner rather than an actually designed in curve.  Beta must do something different with the port timing for engines with and without advance.  I wish I understood what. 

 

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