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New Start / Which Bike


CJM_32
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Well obviously you need a CJM 280?

Budget, your DIY ability and preferences for either 2T or 4T. There is a wide choice of very capable machinery and you would do no worse than to check out TC Classifieds for a worthy first bike, in reality a Beta, or Sherco would be a good bet, but stick with a 250....don’t run before you can walk...Once you’ve decided on engine type go for the cleanest, best maintained, well documented and genuine bike. You may have a full bike licence so might want to go for one that is already registered for the road. 

Do your research carefully, it’s a buyers market out there and the  ? is king! Private or from a dealer compare prices and what you get for your money. If the bike has done the SSDT check it very carefully, but then again some bikes that don’t get used much can be just as bashed about. Take someone knowledgable when you view your choices. A good way of getting a good bike and making friends with like minded people is to join a club and then ask the members, you might even consider the twin-shock class as a less dramatic entry (return) to trialing. 

Whatever you do have fun and enjoy the whole experience?

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Thanks for the reply sections swept! Personally would prefer a 2T with background in other things. Have seen a few bikes that I like the look of and within budget don’t want to go crazy on first bike incase I don’t enjoy it - this I doubt and when I drop it. I’ve seen some a Scorpa Sy250 JotaGas 250 and Beta 250 that are within budget on various sites would you recommend any of these over the other?

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Beta or Scorpa would be my immediate choice but a lot comes down to condition and all the points raised previously. Both are relatively tough and not that difficult to work on. Scorpa has a Yamaha based engine and some will recommend this make due to strong motor. Jotagas in the minority, not so many showing up, they are now known a JGAS and build good quality machines and electric bikes. You might like the Jotagas but check out spares and instructions. A friendly warning, rear suspension can work out to be very expensive if you need to replace worn out damper units. Rebuilds can be dear if a serviceable item. At the end of the day sit on the bike, ride it if possible. YOU MUST test that the engine starts from cold, if the engines been warmed up be suspicious, keep the seller talking long enough for the engine to cool right down. Start it up and listen for excessive noises such as piston slap/rattle, the motor should rev up crisply, the clutch may drag when cold, this is not a bad thing as many bikes suffer this issue, but it should clear fully when hot. Ensure all the gears are there and working. Listen out for the cooling fan cutting in and cutting off. Hold the front brake on sitting astride the bike, put a finger next to the steering head so that you can feel the fork and the frame, rock the bike back and forth, any play means either strip and clean or readjust, the head bearings could also be worn...usual on many bikes... negotiate money off. If the bikes registered for the road, you don’t necessarily need lights but that restricts you to daytime clear weather riding you will need a working electric powered horn and speedo. Bulb type horns are allowed for pre-73 bikes...in case you go twin shock.

 

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