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Villiers 11e


rusty ken
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There are a lot of useful bits, more so if its not the electric (SIBA) start version. Most don't have a kick start and the gear lever has no self return so the gearbox end cover has to be changed. The gear ratios are standard road but are a good starting point. The later ones have the same clutch as the 31A so is reasonable. It will have the shorter conrod but you can get 250 barrels to suit. The 11E barrel can be bored to 225 (using the 1H piston) which is useable.

Loads of frames about, the James/Francis barnett is very good or the Drayton of course.

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On 12/5/2018 at 9:58 PM, teamferret said:

There are a lot of useful bits, more so if its not the electric (SIBA) start version. Most don't have a kick start and the gear lever has no self return so the gearbox end cover has to be changed. The gear ratios are standard road but are a good starting point. The later ones have the same clutch as the 31A so is reasonable. It will have the shorter conrod but you can get 250 barrels to suit. The 11E barrel can be bored to 225 (using the 1H piston) which is useable.

Loads of frames about, the James/Francis barnett is very good or the Drayton of course.

The crankcase castings were an issue as with the 9E onwards, in terms of their aesthetic finish this tended to shroud the main bearing housings and created excess heat that could not effectively be passed to the surrounding air. Many had the excess aluminium cut away to expose the main bearing housing to the air, as with the 37A type. Hope that makes sense.

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Hi Folks, thanks very much for the replies. 

Teamferret; I think I have a 250 alloy barrel and head (which has horizontal fins like a continuation of the barrel?) tucked away in another corner of the shed.  I'd been told these were an aftermarket product, but had expected it to fit this engine, and even if it did that there would be a more current barrel available with much improved porting.  Would it be worth using this or is there a better (modern) alternative?  I'd need a piston, but that can be included the longer shopping list!

I don't think the engine I have is the electric start version, as the timing side cover just seems to have the ignition system inside.  Is there a source for the gearbox end cover, kick start shaft, etc? or do I need to keep watching ebay?

Section Swept & Hewson; Thanks for the info  on the timing side shroud and the photo, my casings don't look that clean at the moment. Your comments do make sense. Is the normal approach to machine the shroud back level with the casting for the main bearing, it's hard to get perspective from the photo?

Thinking of performance, to make these engines work do I need to swap to full circle flywheels? (I haven't stripped the engine but am assuming it has bob weights?)

Thanks again for the info.

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Following up from my earlier with a little lunchtime research, it appears the barrel I have is an "Ajax Pearson" conversion.  Has anyone any experience of these, and are they any good?

Standing by to have my hopes dashed, but am again astounded by the parts that my late father had squirreled away in the shed.

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On 12/10/2018 at 10:56 AM, rusty ken said:

Hi Folks, thanks very much for the replies. 

Teamferret; I think I have a 250 alloy barrel and head (which has horizontal fins like a continuation of the barrel?) tucked away in another corner of the shed.  I'd been told these were an aftermarket product, but had expected it to fit this engine, and even if it did that there would be a more current barrel available with much improved porting.  Would it be worth using this or is there a better (modern) alternative?  I'd need a piston, but that can be included the longer shopping list!

I don't think the engine I have is the electric start version, as the timing side cover just seems to have the ignition system inside.  Is there a source for the gearbox end cover, kick start shaft, etc? or do I need to keep watching ebay?

Section Swept & Hewson; Thanks for the info  on the timing side shroud and the photo, my casings don't look that clean at the moment. Your comments do make sense. Is the normal approach to machine the shroud back level with the casting for the main bearing, it's hard to get perspective from the photo?

Thinking of performance, to make these engines work do I need to swap to full circle flywheels? (I haven't stripped the engine but am assuming it has bob weights?)

Thanks again for the info.

 

On 12/10/2018 at 10:56 AM, rusty ken said:

Hi Folks, thanks very much for the replies. 

Teamferret; I think I have a 250 alloy barrel and head (which has horizontal fins like a continuation of the barrel?) tucked away in another corner of the shed.  I'd been told these were an aftermarket product, but had expected it to fit this engine, and even if it did that there would be a more current barrel available with much improved porting.  Would it be worth using this or is there a better (modern) alternative?  I'd need a piston, but that can be included the longer shopping list!

I don't think the engine I have is the electric start version, as the timing side cover just seems to have the ignition system inside.  Is there a source for the gearbox end cover, kick start shaft, etc? or do I need to keep watching ebay?

Section Swept & Hewson; Thanks for the info  on the timing side shroud and the photo, my casings don't look that clean at the moment. Your comments do make sense. Is the normal approach to machine the shroud back level with the casting for the main bearing, it's hard to get perspective from the photo?

Thinking of performance, to make these engines work do I need to swap to full circle flywheels? (I haven't stripped the engine but am assuming it has bob weights?)

Thanks again for the info.

 

20181215_145425 (1).jpg

20181215_145510.jpg

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