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EFI OSSA Notebook (Formerly TR280i Wiring Diagram Annotated in English)


konrad
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4 hours ago, matteo.lavaggi said:

Ok, kill switch from the electircal diagram seem a "to gnd" button that has lot of sense. So the kill sitch output from the Easy Start System (yellow) must go in some way to the White / Black pin 29 on the ecu like the original kill button switch, right?

Correct. 

The Administrator here will be posting the complete documentation for retrofitting the Easy-Start System to older bikes.

The Easy Start uses a momentary-contact kill button to "arm" the system in addition to killing the engine.  However, the 2014 bikes will also arm without pressing the kill button (by sensing flywheel rotation during kickstarting).

I recommend connecting your lanyard (magnetic cap) kill switch on the output side of the Easy-Start for maximum safety (should the Easy-Start ever fail).

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Thanks dear

a little constructive criticism: I am an electrician and I am struggling to follow the instructions, more than the photos (not very clear) it would be appropriate to follow each section to a small diagram that clearly indicates the changes to be made, for example to the master connection relay.

Another small note: It is not clear if the changes are to be made on an "old" version pre 2014 to install the 2014 kit or if they are to be made in the same order for the 2014 bikes too!

PS your work is fantastic

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Also i'm very interesting on the second condition FWAC, i've just read this explanation image in other post, but i cant really indestand if this working condition is enabled by default or if need modification (in this case what modification) ? the bolt-on kit cannot ave this function in standard form .. --> ?

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4 hours ago, konrad said:

Correct. 

The Administrator here will be posting the complete documentation for retrofitting the Easy-Start System to older bikes.

The Easy Start uses a momentary-contact kill button to "arm" the system in addition to killing the engine.  However, the 2014 bikes will also arm without pressing the kill button (by sensing flywheel rotation during kickstarting).

I recommend connecting your lanyard (magnetic cap) kill switch on the output side of the Easy-Start for maximum safety (should the Easy-Start ever fail).

Hi, my magnetic cap was installed some where direct on the electrical harness because my easy start input for switch was not connected to any where :) so for safety this is ok,  don't need to care for easy start system electronic works or not for shutdown bike. But I can add a second switch to control the easy start "on demand" function right? So you can confirm that 2014 model use the flywheel "check" mode by default to know when arm the system , I'm in right ? Thanks 

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Matteo,

I agree, OSSA's Easy-Start retrofitting instructions could be improved. (Part of the problem is a Spanish author writing in English for an Italian reader.)

The instructions apply only to bikes that did not have Easy-Start fitted at the factory.   But they should help you better understand the system.

FWAC only works with bikes that had Easy-Start fitted from the factory.  This is because some of the wires (from stator to ECU) are not easily accessible.  But FWAC is possible on all bikes, if you add these wires.

Yes, you can add a second switch to control the easy start "on demand".

Yes, the 2014 models use the flywheel "check" mode by default to know when to arm the system.

Edited by konrad
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  • 1 month later...
 
  • 4 weeks later...

Hello Konrad and thanks for the writeup on the Ossa control system, I have a 2014 250 like you, never had a big problem starting until all of a sudden I did have a starting problem.  I thought later models had only capacitor and no battery, with your writeup and pictures I started checking the easy box, internal aaa battery dead, not bad 5 years old. changed the battery started first kick for a few days and then more kicks to start, did some more detailed reading of your writeup and started monitoring the 10 volt dc signal initiated by the deadman switch.  I noticed it was intermittent, found that the red and black wires exiting the starting module had broken all the strands only held together by the insulation.  Soldered in some bypasses and a solid 10 volts, seems to be starting on 1 or 2 kicks now.  

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Oaktrials, thanks for sharing your success story.  Your description reinforces how I think the AAA cell in the Easy Start gets recharged.  Originally, I thought it stole power from the stator's fuel pump winding (which provides the Flywheel Armed Condition).  Later, I came to believe the AAA cell is recharged via the red and black wires because this is the only way an Easy Start could work when retrofitted to an older-model bike.

I would bet your old AAA cell would still work now that you've fixed the wiring.

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  • 1 year later...
 

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