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Sticky kicker


pindie
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My kick start works fine going down but struggles to return. It’s like the case seal has swollen up and is tight on the shaft? 

Any ideas what I should order in advance before removing the clutch case and investigating deeper?

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I suspect it's just been misassembled.  You must wind the kickstart return spring up slightly from its relaxed position prior to putting the clutch cover back on.

Make note of the thrust washer at the end of the kickstart shaft (not shown in the photo below).  It's easy for this to fall off during reassembly.  I grease this washer to help keep it in place, and lean the bike to the right when installing the clutch cover.

Take reference photos during disassembly.   The "loop" in the kickstart spring fits into a mating area in the engine casting.

OSSA kickstarter alignment.JPG

Edited by konrad
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Hi Pindie,

I recently had what sounds like the same problem.  My kick start was always really stiff and then would stick down and not return.  Starting was also a real pain.

So I removed the clutch cover and I checked that everything looked ok.  I then carefully reassembled following this handly guide: https://birkettmotosport.com/application/files/5315/1387/5659/Ossa-clutch-cover.pdf

I think that my bike had previously been re-assembled with the spring or the kick start in the wrong position.

Now my bike has been starting better and the kick start moves easier and it always returns.

Hope that helps

 

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Thanks. I saw that and that’s what prompted my original question. It’s definitely looking like it was assembled wrong. It’s a good starter though, just annoying it stays down- my only gripe (apart from being so rare!). If it ends up easier to start I’ll be well chuffed.

I’ve also read you can remove the cover to drain oil but I’ve never done this. I’ve always got plenty out? I’m guessing the previous owner did remove the cover though and assembled it wrong. 

Edited by pindie
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Pindie, you don't need to remove the cover completely.  Just loosen the screws and pull the cover away from the engine case slightly.  But this makes a mess!   I made this little extension specifically for trials bikes to keep the mess at bay.  

1489372924_DrainingTool.thumb.JPG.fe91d734e376675963d2b6802d2c7b58.JPG

 

Works fine on the 2011, but I can't get anywhere near all the oil out of the 2014 via the drain plug alone.  Anyone know why this is?  Does the locker shaft have something to do with it?

My 2014 has some additional machining that allows clutch cavity oil to drain by removing one case screw.

789885317_2014modelannotated.thumb.jpg.a0d84ac3bb21c384776e0fd674f719ac.jpg

 

Edited by konrad
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Thanks Konrad. I’ll bear that in mind. 

 

The he plot thickens. Today I removed the case. It’s definitely been off before as the gaskets damaged and a dab of sealant had been used to seal it. 

I followed the guide. Rotated kicker anti clockwise till roughly lined up and gently eased into place. First kick it returned perfectly, same for second (started!!!) and third but on the fourth it went slack again and with each kick got slacker till it hovers just above the foot peg instead of returning. What’s going on? Have I missed the recess again and slowly but surely tension is lost or do I have another issue? All seems to work fine at first though so I’m confident the spring itself is not the problem. 

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Pics of the inside of your case....sounds like the spring is slipping somehow

check the inside case casting where the loop fits to make sure the casting that holds the rubber stopper in place has not worn or cracked which would allow the loop to slip down past the rubber thus leading to the original issue again

Edited by canada280i
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Great tip, thanks!  I'll order one. 

That photo was taken even before I used flywheel weights.   I ended up just heating and bending the stock levers to clear. (Also slid the levers out on the splined shaft a bit, too). 

Not shown in that photo is a Nylon washer I machined that goes between the engine case and the shift lever.  I'm hoping this will prevents the shifting mechanism from being damaged if/when I crash the lever into a rock.  The OSSA's entire shift mechanism looks quite fragile.  I would have sacrificed some weight there for durability.

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Definitely no wear in the recess for the spring loop section nor the rubber plug bit. It all looks new. I’ve ordered up a new gasket too so will re visit this and check and double check. I was very happy and excited when it first sprung back! I love riding it so would just like everything perfect (ish).  

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