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stu109

Strange but true

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I changed the oil today on my Evo 300 4T.

A small piece of metal was attached to the drain plug.

Bike starts and runs fine.

Anyone any ideas where it might have broken off from?

metal.png

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Its just one piece, about 5mm long, photographed from a number of different angles.

I haven't started it since finding the object but I suspect its been there for some time.

Started bike to heat up the oil prior to change and everything seemed fine.

Have sent the bit to Beta UK to see want they think.

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As a minimum you need the left side cover off to investigate the gears in there, I have a feeling that's a drive dog and tooth from one of the gears and that is a case split, (nothing to be scared of).

 

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Had the clutch out this morning to check the kick start etc. on that side.

Pleased (or it it disappointed) to report that everything is in fine order.

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2 hours ago, stu109 said:

Had the clutch out this morning to check the kick start etc. on that side.

Pleased (or it it disappointed) to report that everything is in fine order.

Keep looking as it came from somewhere if one bit ( tooth ) came off others could follow 

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About to start the task of removing the engine and splitting the cases to get to the gearbox components.

As it is a four stroke this seems a bit more daunting that splitting the cases on a 2 stroke, so any general advice would be welcomed.

I have the excellent engine manual so if I follow that everything should go fine.

So specific questions for those of you who have worked on the 4T:

  1. Can I leave the water pump in-situ in the barrel?
  2. Can I leave the oil pump in the case?
  3. Can I leave the kick start idler gear in place on its shaft?
  4. The manual suggests a special tool to split the cases is this necessary, or will them come apart with some gentle tapping?
  5. What is the best way to hold the crank still to remove the flywheel nut and the primary drive gear?

Any other help much appreciated.

 

 

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I have just put my bottom end back together after installing a heli-coil in the crankcase for the crankshaft locating bolt.  (2009 4t)

1 No, the W/P shaft has to come apart to allow the cam chain to drop down for head removal.

2 No, a shaft passes from one side of the engine to the other linking the oil pumps together, it must be decoupled before splitting the cases.

3 Yes, I only had to remove the kickstart lever.

4 I used a home made puller, that copied the factory part, to split the cases, it worked perfectly. No damage to any parts. 

5 The crankshaft locating bolt properly seated in the crank's slot does the job.

This whole job resulted from a repair 5 years ago to the W/P seals and shaft. I used the crank locking bolt to hold the crank, and hence the W/P gear fixed while the W/P shaft was unscrewed. Trouble started when I re-torqued the crank locating bolt to factory spec with the copper washer. The initial hole for the bolt is larger than the screw threads used, and the washer deformed to a dome shape, allowing the bolt to contact the crank. It would not turn over with the kickstart. I knew right away what the trouble was, but as I had already buggered the copper washer, I made a new one out of sheet aluminium. My mistake was using too thick a sheet, thus not engaging enough threads, They eventually stripped out. My advise is to torque the bolt to less than the factory spec, tight enough to seal, but not deform the copper washer. Secondly, use an 8mm bolt with 15mm of thread in place of the bullet nosed locating bolt, keep it in your toolbox.

Cheers

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