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Bolt on footrests


robd0gg
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just picked up a 75 TY175. It has footrests that are bolted on the lower part of the frame..  below the kickstarter/CS sprocket.  I see that there are kits to move them back, so I assume that was a factory option for these bikes?  (I'm just starting to learn about these bikes so please bear with me).

secondly, and more importantly, I see what look like a couple of different kits (or maybe they are all the same?) but wondering if I need to also replace the shifter/brake lever?  I've ridden modern trials so I am used to the shifter being well forward of the left footrest, but wondering more about the brake lever.. it looks like the stock lever will require a bit of a stretch to reach with the rear mounted foot rests..

thanks for your insights

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Some kits require the RH peg to be lifted to kickstart the motor. Some don't.

I haven't seen anyone move the brake tip back to compensate the the peg being further back. The kit I've got doesn't move the pegs back far enough to make much difference and is quite a comfy reach to the brake pedal tip (size 11).

The brake lever tip is adjustable fore and aft by reshaping the front end. It's a fairly common task to reshape it after hitting things with it. If you are still in doubt I will take some photos showing the distance with kit pegs

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About your first question, no there was not a factory option to have Ty175 pegs further back. The kits to move them back and down a bit came much later and not from Yamaha.

The TY250 did have a Yamaha kit that allowed people to have the pegs further forwards for trail riding

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  • 3 weeks later...

Feetupfun,

On 4/11/2019 at 1:30 AM, feetupfun said:

Mine mount onto the frame exactly the same way as the standard peg mounts

So with the pegs back about an inch and 3/8" and down about the same. will the 250 lift the front wheel off the ground much with a blip of the throttle? Or do you need to bounce it a bit first?

Just wondering what a normal healthy TY 250 is like?

And are you running a radial rear tire?

 

 

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3 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

Feetupfun,

So with the pegs back about an inch and 3/8" and down about the same. will the 250 lift the front wheel off the ground much with a blip of the throttle? Or do you need to bounce it a bit first?

Just wondering what a normal healthy TY 250 is like?

And are you running a radial rear tire?

 

 

OK first i want to clarify that this forum string is about TY175 footrests, which attach to the frame completely differently to TY250 footpegs. It sounds like you are asking here about TY250 footpegs,

As for what a bike does when you blip the throttle, it is pretty much impossible to communicate bike response like that on a forum, in words. I can say that if you are sitting down and riding along flat ground in fourth gear, a combination of weight transfer, throttle position and clutch dumping will lift the front wheel high enough to get to the balance point. If you want to do a balance point wheelie in fifth gear on the flat you will need to be standing on the pegs to get enough weight transfer. They are about 16 horsepower.

So much of what a bike does is determined by what the rider does with their body, that your question needs to be a lot more specific to be able to be answered.

Keeping the front on the ground or floating around off the ground is something the rider controls, no matter where the footpegs are.

I have no idea how the tyres I use are made. I remember that radial ply rears (AVON) came out in the 1970s and competition tyres have continued to improve since then. I run IRC tube type and Michelin X11 tubeless type rears with a tube on my twinshock trials bikes and they work way better than 1970s design tyres.

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  • 3 weeks later...

so not sure how this got turned in to a TY250 footrest post, as was stated by others, the 250 mounts and 175 mounts are not the same..

also, I am not talking about a simple lowering kit that only drops the rests a half inch or so and moves them back a half inch..   but a bolt on the frame replacement kit such as shown below. I remounted the aftermarket pegs, in the original position to show the difference..  having mounted the new kit, I think the shifter and brake lever distances are manageable..  as I have owned other modern trials bikes before..   so no changes other then adjusting the resting height of the levers since the new position is about an inch higher; and five inches or so further back..

now I just need to figure out how to keep the right footrest up out of the way so I can kick the motor over..   probably just a simple elastic band or old bicycle innertube arrangement

thanks to those that stayed on topic and were helpful..   the rest of you, make your own threads..  hehe

 

 

ty-pegs.JPG

Edited by robd0gg
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I can't be bothered with "Thread" politics, but one thing I would say is that those bolt on footrest kits are not very strong.I had something very similar or maybe identical from SM products on my TY250, they bend very easily. I ended up welding a thick gusset down the front face of them.

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1 hour ago, jon v8 said:

I can't be bothered with "Thread" politics, but one thing I would say is that those bolt on footrest kits are not very strong.I had something very similar or maybe identical from SM products on my TY250, they bend very easily. I ended up welding a thick gusset down the front face of them.

Ger orrf my threeeed.

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5 hours ago, jon v8 said:

I can't be bothered with "Thread" politics, but one thing I would say is that those bolt on footrest kits are not very strong.I had something very similar or maybe identical from SM products on my TY250, they bend very easily. I ended up welding a thick gusset down the front face of them.

On my SM TY175 pegs, the holes for the pivot pin elongated. I do weigh 95 kg though. I welded on some thick washers and they have been OK since.

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