Jump to content

old trials fanatic

Running a tubeless wheel and tyre with a tube but no security bolts

Recommended Posts

I've been running twinshocks and Pre 65 all my life but have recently bought a 270 Rev 3 and upon investigation the rim is corroded on the inside, not as bad as a twinshock Honda or Air cooled Yamaha if you know what i mean, around all the spoke nipples and i think this is why it kept going down. I've cleaned it up as best i can but cant get into around each nipple without a wheel rebuild and is so would probably just have to fit a new rim. I've been told by a couple of people that you can run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim with a tube but without security bolts. Now from past experience with pre 65 and twinshocks, ok they were tubed tyres on tubed rims, this would be a recipe for disaster and a valve ripped out.

Is this correct and has anyone here run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim without security bolts succesfully ? I will be running approx 4 p.s.i. teh same as on my other bikes btw.

Cheers  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It's a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim - the air doesn't know it's in a tube so exerts the same pressure in the same places as it would otherwise so no great problem. I'm told, though have not experienced it, that a standard tubeless set up can creep slightly so at worst you'll be no worse off than with a standard tubed set up, being able to see the valve move if it does. I used a tube as you intend to and had no problems on a Rev3. No doubt long term tube users will be on soon.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
26 minutes ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

It's a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim - the air doesn't know it's in a tube so exerts the same pressure in the same places as it would otherwise so no great problem. I'm told, though have not experienced it, that a standard tubeless set up can creep slightly so at worst you'll be no worse off than with a standard tubed set up, being able to see the valve move if it does. I used a tube as you intend to and had no problems on a Rev3. No doubt long term tube users will be on soon.

Thank you. Just what i wanted actual experience. Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

 The worry is the tire can still slip a little during every ride. It depends on the tire. I had a terrible weekend running a tube in a 2003 Rev 3. Dunlop seem to hold the bead tighter. I would use a quality tire lube and sealer when mounting.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

The only time I've ran a tube the valve stem was ripped off it within 30 min.

It was an old gas gas 321 that I'd just bought, and I didn't know it had a tube in it when I reduced it to 4psi. The cheap vee rubber tube tyre might not have helped.

The rim was too corroded for the rim tape alone to seal, partly caused by a previous owner with acidic silicone sealant, but it was good enough with a bottle of slime in it which I'd recommended trying instead of a tube.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

We had an IRC on a 2011 Gasgas rim that spun the tyre on the rim with a tube fitted ... but I think at the time there was an issue with IRC not sealing/gripping on the bead so this may have contributed to issue. I guess it’ll also depend on how aggressive you ride as well. 
we also had a Rev3 that popped the bead so we  put insulation tape around the bead on the wheel to make the tyre grip more. 
wheel rim was corroded as yours so as much corrosion as possible was removed with an ‘air file’ and the rim painted on the inside after cleaning. I think we used enamel paint . 
 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I ran a tube in a tubeless Michelin x lite on my 270 Rev 3 for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I kept the thick rubber spoke sealing band in place (after cutting the valve out) as a kind of thick rim tape. No problems at all. I sold it to a club member who rides it harder than me and still no issues. Maybe some tyres don't grip the rim so well so some caution needed, but the worst that can happen is you ruin a tube (and your day!) so, maybe worth a try? It was tricky to fit the tyre without nipping the tube, mind you!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Not sure if its feasible, but maybe if you feel the rim is shot anyway, perhaps you could drill it and fit a clamp (modified to suit the rim)?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I have run tubes in tubeless tyres on tubeless rims for many years - no need for a security bolt and never had a problem with tyre slip at 3psi.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
20 hours ago, old trials fanatic said:

I've been running twinshocks and Pre 65 all my life but have recently bought a 270 Rev 3 and upon investigation the rim is corroded on the inside, not as bad as a twinshock Honda or Air cooled Yamaha if you know what i mean, around all the spoke nipples and i think this is why it kept going down. I've cleaned it up as best i can but cant get into around each nipple without a wheel rebuild and is so would probably just have to fit a new rim. I've been told by a couple of people that you can run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim with a tube but without security bolts. Now from past experience with pre 65 and twinshocks, ok they were tubed tyres on tubed rims, this would be a recipe for disaster and a valve ripped out.

Is this correct and has anyone here run a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim without security bolts succesfully ? I will be running approx 4 p.s.i. teh same as on my other bikes btw.

Cheers  

Drill the rim & use security bolts they are not  overly expensive to buy.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Quite often Tubeless tyres have rough or ridged inside surfaces , and even if they stay still on the rim, they will turn your tube to dust (eventually) I have done exactly what you are proposing, as a quick fix , think it took about six months to self destruct...

The Bottle of slime idea already suggested is the way to go, as its cheaper than a decent tube ...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

The other problem with running a tube in a tubeless rim is that if you get a puncture during a trial. The days over unless you have a compressor in the van to re fit the tyre.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

I just replaced a tyre for a friend... turned out it was tubed running on a centre flange spoke rim on a tubeless tyre... can only assume that at some point the old tubeless tyre had a puncture... he didn’t ever have any issues with ripping valves out

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...