Jump to content

Pobby71

Montesa 315r clutch probs

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've read loads of stuff on here about montesa clutch issues, mine won't disengage, I've bled the slve cylinder, took the clutch basket apart, got it working then it wouldn't work again, before I go down the  route of dimpled plates or removing 2 springs, out of interest how far is the slave cylinder supposed to move,, mines only moving about 3 mm tops. 

Any suggestions would be appreciated cheers. 

Edited by Pobby71
Typo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

So how long have you had it? How long has it been sitting? Have you ever seen it work? When it did not disengage, what did you do first to fix it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, Pobby71 said:

Hi, I've read loads of stuff on here about montesa clutch issues, mine won't disengage, I've bled the slve cylinder, took the clutch basket apart, got it working then it wouldn't work again, before I go down the  route of dimpled plates or removing 2 springs, out of interest how far is the slave cylinder supposed to move,, mines only moving about 3 mm tops. 

Any suggestions would be appreciated cheers. 

I can't speak to if 3mm of movement is enough on the slave for a 315R, however, did you bleed the slave recently?  If not I would start there.

On a side note, a few things to consider might be...  When you took the basket apart did you have divots/indentations on the clutch fingers where the plates touch?  If not, was there any unexpected wear that could account for things shifting off center?  Did the clutch friction plates have a larger than normal amount of exposed glue and enough wear to the point where you might have any of that glue in contact with the pressure plates? 

Any of this could account for it outside of the slave movement. 

Edited by jonnyc21

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Well since he has not replied, I bet the clutch plates were just stuck together.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi cheers for the responce,, tried to reply on my phone but was still logged on another device,,, anyway I got it working by separating the plates then putting it back together,, I've never seen it ride however engine runs sweet now I've cleaned the carbs, I was just wondering how far the slave should move as my mate who races moto x reckons it should be 6 to 8 mm mine is less than 3 mm,, it just doesn't look like a lot of movement to me.. I'm going look at it again this wkend. I can post some pics

Cheers again guys

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've re sealed clutch master cylinder and it appears to have helped, so next stop will be to change gbx oil to the right spec, should sort the prob,,, I've just got the rear suspension to sort,, the whole thing seems low to me 

But cheers for your input guys anyway

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

3 mm is enough,you're only taking the spring pressure off the plates to allow them to separate and break drive to the wheel

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've just took it for a run up and down the road,,, it feels really graby,, any sugetions on this? 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

After many years of trying to solve 'can't get neutral' and varying levels of annoying drag with thin oil and messing with clutch plates the old man's fix on mine still works fine. I suspect there are non believers though :lol:

https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69963-315-clutch-fix/

If it's sitting low, the linkage plates might be wrong way round or no oil or gas left in the shock. The manual says the shock is non repairable, but https://proracing.co.uk/ sorted mine no worries and it's still fine some years later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

FWIW when I bought my 315R the clutch dragged quite badly.  Same day I bought it a fellow at a local event told me it was absolutely critical to run the OE spec gearbox oil.  I switched to that and the clutch then worked wonderfully (I don't know what the previous owner had in it, but it looked clean coming out).  So I would definitely suggest running the OEM fluid first-off. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...