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johnnyjazz

TY250A Flywheel question...

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 I think your pegs are in the stock position. Yamaha sold a kit to move them forward, which included the brake pedal you have, I think I have a set of them. The aftermarket sold peg  mounts that went down and back.

 I don't have a TY anymore.

Edited by motovita

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9 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

Feetup fun- That's good to know information!  I was all ready to remove that band and give it a whirl, but sounds like it's not that good of an idea after all.  You probably saved me a lot of heartache!  But question- I had been running a 12-53 and first gear speed is "too low" to be of much use for trail riding- it takes valuable time to shift thru first, second and you are not moving fast enough to give the wheels any "gyro effect" so there is not much stability until you are moving at about a fast walk at least.  So first gear is almost useless.  So I put on a 13 tooth front sprocket and that is more "user friendly" my shifting is a bit less often and I'm not needing to change gears as much while reaching a stable speed.  Seems like about 10- 15mph is a good starting point.  My new boots are stiff enough that you need a definite effort to shift, and that gets old pretty fast on the trail.  I'm almost 72 now and that has a lot to do with all this, but do you think a 14-53 is better all around or a 13-53 for single track?  Some of the trails here are rocky and fairly steep. I also am looking into Boyesen reeds or anything else that would help me jump a log When- not IF that becomes necessary.  What is your opinion on Barkbusters and what tools you carry if you are 20 miles from the truck?

 

13-53 is good for trail riding and only use 3rd 4th and 5th. When you take off, use 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd are rarely used for anything except trials sections. 14-53 puts 3rd 4th and 5th too far apart for trail riding.

Leave it in one gear and use the broad power range. Most of my flowing single track is done in 4th gear and for really tight corners (like when you actually have to turn the bars) I fan the clutch for a moment on exit. Steep and rocky trails use 3rd gear. Extreme steep and rocky trail use 2nd gear.

Modifying the engine is a waste of money for what you are doing with the bike. It is an excellent motor completely standard.

Logs are successfully crossed using rider technique. Think about MTB (bicycle riders) jumping a log. They don't have boyesen reeds and their motor is only about 0.25 HP but they can fly over logs at speed. Riding across logs is a valuable trials technique that there are endless training videos about and success comes with knowing the techniques and practicing them.

Barkbusters are good for avoiding catching lever tips on vegetation but even the lightest versions affect the steering when doing competition trials riding. If you are only trail riding they are fine.

Edited by feetupfun

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2 hours ago, feetupfun said:

13-53 is good for trail riding and only use 3rd 4th and 5th. When you take off, use 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd are rarely used for anything except trials sections. 14-53 puts 3rd 4th and 5th too far apart for trail riding.

Leave it in one gear and use the broad power range. Most of my flowing single track is done in 4th gear and for really tight corners (like when you actually have to turn the bars) I fan the clutch for a moment on exit. Steep and rocky trails use 3rd gear. Extreme steep and rocky trail use 2nd gear.

Modifying the engine is a waste of money for what you are doing with the bike. It is an excellent motor completely standard.

Logs are successfully crossed using rider technique. Think about MTB (bicycle riders) jumping a log. They don't have boyesen reeds and their motor is only about 0.25 HP but they can fly over logs at speed. Riding across logs is a valuable trials technique that there are endless training videos about and success comes with knowing the techniques and practicing them.

Barkbusters are good for avoiding catching lever tips on vegetation but even the lightest versions affect the steering when doing competition trials riding. If you are only trail riding they are fine.

I will try second and up- but don't you need to get back to neutral when you stop?  Are you Idling in neutral or just kill the bike and re- start?  

Barkbusters- If I do get any I might just get the "flag" type as I have heard some motocrossers have broken their arms on the enclosed bracketry in a crash situation when they go over the handlebars because the arms get caught under the brackets and they still go over the bars with the rest of their body!   Now that would hurt!

13-53 and start off in 3rd? ok I'll give it a shot! My riding expertise can't suffer from trying something new.

 

Lever tips being caught on vegetation!  Why didn't I think of that? my brake lever is curled around enough to do that! 

 

Maybe a tip for the group!  the newer bikes all use a "dog leg" type lever that is easier to grab and makes the lever sit closer to the handlebars- but until last week I could never find a cross over part number from anything else that would fit a TY 250 A for sure- but I decided to go support my local Yamaha dealer and let him try and find something that will upgrade my levers to a more modern style- so he did!  So here are the part numbers ! They are levers off of a 2007- 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 4 wheeler but we won't tell anybody!  Clutch side is 2HT-83912-01, brake side is 5KM-83922-00-00.  I am running the clutch side only right now and have not ordered the brake side as yet, but I plan on doing it soon- my brake side is bent almost double. 

 

Thanks for all the help!  I'm starting to get the hang of it again- the bike is so much different than my old 250 Husky and 360 CZ motocrosser- nearly killed myself on the CZ but what a machine! 

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1 hour ago, Tillerman6 said:

I will try second and up- but don't you need to get back to neutral when you stop?  Are you Idling in neutral or just kill the bike and re- start?  

Barkbusters- If I do get any I might just get the "flag" type as I have heard some motocrossers have broken their arms on the enclosed bracketry in a crash situation when they go over the handlebars because the arms get caught under the brackets and they still go over the bars with the rest of their body!   Now that would hurt!

13-53 and start off in 3rd? ok I'll give it a shot! My riding expertise can't suffer from trying something new.

 

Lever tips being caught on vegetation!  Why didn't I think of that? my brake lever is curled around enough to do that! 

 

Maybe a tip for the group!  the newer bikes all use a "dog leg" type lever that is easier to grab and makes the lever sit closer to the handlebars- but until last week I could never find a cross over part number from anything else that would fit a TY 250 A for sure- but I decided to go support my local Yamaha dealer and let him try and find something that will upgrade my levers to a more modern style- so he did!  So here are the part numbers ! They are levers off of a 2007- 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 4 wheeler but we won't tell anybody!  Clutch side is 2HT-83912-01, brake side is 5KM-83922-00-00.  I am running the clutch side only right now and have not ordered the brake side as yet, but I plan on doing it soon- my brake side is bent almost double. 

 

Thanks for all the help!  I'm starting to get the hang of it again- the bike is so much different than my old 250 Husky and 360 CZ motocrosser- nearly killed myself on the CZ but what a machine! 

Lots of different dogleg lever blades fit TY250 mounts and cables. One of my favourite dogleg levers on old Japanese trials bikes is (genuine) Suzuki RM80X. They are very malleable.

You can also use mounts that have a split clamp which makes it possible to change out a broken mount without removing/replacing the grips.

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2 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

I will try second and up- but don't you need to get back to neutral when you stop?  Are you Idling in neutral or just kill the bike and re- start?  

Barkbusters- If I do get any I might just get the "flag" type as I have heard some motocrossers have broken their arms on the enclosed bracketry in a crash situation when they go over the handlebars because the arms get caught under the brackets and they still go over the bars with the rest of their body!   Now that would hurt!

13-53 and start off in 3rd? ok I'll give it a shot! My riding expertise can't suffer from trying something new.

 

Lever tips being caught on vegetation!  Why didn't I think of that? my brake lever is curled around enough to do that! 

 

Maybe a tip for the group!  the newer bikes all use a "dog leg" type lever that is easier to grab and makes the lever sit closer to the handlebars- but until last week I could never find a cross over part number from anything else that would fit a TY 250 A for sure- but I decided to go support my local Yamaha dealer and let him try and find something that will upgrade my levers to a more modern style- so he did!  So here are the part numbers ! They are levers off of a 2007- 2014 Yamaha Grizzly 4 wheeler but we won't tell anybody!  Clutch side is 2HT-83912-01, brake side is 5KM-83922-00-00.  I am running the clutch side only right now and have not ordered the brake side as yet, but I plan on doing it soon- my brake side is bent almost double. 

 

Thanks for all the help!  I'm starting to get the hang of it again- the bike is so much different than my old 250 Husky and 360 CZ motocrosser- nearly killed myself on the CZ but what a machine! 

 I recommend using the 23x levers you can look them up on a TY350.

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On 5/18/2021 at 11:33 AM, motovita said:

 I think your pegs are in the stock position. Yamaha sold a kit to move them forward, which included the brake pedal you have, I think I have a set of them. The aftermarket sold peg  mounts that went down and back.

 I don't have a TY anymore.

motovita- I was aware of the Yamaha kit to move the pegs back and down, because I have a set of heavy steel triangle shaped brackets that do that job.   I haven't used them for a couple of years, as you can't get your foot on the brake lever without taking your foot off the right peg, and having the pegs so far back is not comfortable for riding anything except trials riding- which I don't do anyway.  I also have the other style break lever which I think is shorter and is probably for when you have the trials brackets installed down and back.  But I have never seen or heard of any pegs that could be moved forward from the stock position.

If you have such an animal, maybe you could shoot a picture of them and I will know if it is the same thing I already have.  If it is something new to me I might be interested in buying them from you.

But what I really need is a trials seat pan and a trials seat.

 

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On 5/18/2021 at 10:03 PM, motovita said:

 I recommend using the 23x levers you can look them up on a TY350.

I will do that motovita-  are they "dog leg" type?  my efforts to find the dog leg mate for the brake side have met with failure and I have to return my brake side part to the dealer for some kind of replacement or store credit.

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43 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

Yamaha TY250 trailbike footpeg kit photo

Ty250 trail kit.jpg

Feetup fun- are these pegs moved forwards from stock position?  Is that what motovita is talking about? They do look different than what I have which moves the pegs down and back about an inch.

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2 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

Feetup fun- are these pegs moved forwards from stock position?  Is that what motovita is talking about? They do look different than what I have which moves the pegs down and back about an inch.

Yes those are forwards and down. They are from a Yamaha kit that had those peg mounts, a longer brake pedal, a big seat, a longer swingarm pivot bolt and there could have been a different shift lever too

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15 hours ago, Tillerman6 said:

motovita- I was aware of the Yamaha kit to move the pegs back and down, because I have a set of heavy steel triangle shaped brackets that do that job.   I haven't used them for a couple of years, as you can't get your foot on the brake lever without taking your foot off the right peg, and having the pegs so far back is not comfortable for riding anything except trials riding- which I don't do anyway.  I also have the other style break lever which I think is shorter and is probably for when you have the trials brackets installed down and back.  But I have never seen or heard of any pegs that could be moved forward from the stock position.

If you have such an animal, maybe you could shoot a picture of them and I will know if it is the same thing I already have.  If it is something new to me I might be interested in buying them from you.

But what I really need is a trials seat pan and a trials seat.

 

 Yamaha didn't make a kit to move the pegs back and down, Sammy Miller did, that may be what you have. 

 I think I may have the Yamaha Peg mounts pictured above, if you're interested I'll dig around and see.

 Here's the brake lever you want.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/23X-83922-01-00

 

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2 hours ago, motovita said:

 Yamaha didn't make a kit to move the pegs back and down, Sammy Miller did, that may be what you have. 

 I think I may have the Yamaha Peg mounts pictured above, if you're interested I'll dig around and see.

 Here's the brake lever you want.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/23X-83922-01-00

 

Motovita- sure- look and see if you still have the pegs and brackets.  it would probably be fun to try them and see if my big feet can find the brake pedal any easier with those on there.   Feetup fun has sent pictures and said that my triangle brackets are from Sammy Miller - not Yamaha- so I stand corrected.  This bike was wearing a Sammy Miller front fender and brackets for that too, so there is a very good chance that the triangle brackets are also Sammy Miller.  

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