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After an excruciating wait, my 2021 ePure Race arrived last week. First real outing last Saturday at our practice area. Just an amazing bike. Coming off a Cota 300RR, there is certainly a learning curve. You only think your throttle control is good until you get on one of these! Instant torque is a thing to behold.

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Welcome to the future. The instant torque is lovely, but easy to spin up the back wheel in slippery conditions. I've a way to go before I can say I'm on top of that, but maybe not such a problem in Texas.

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4 hours ago, trapezeartist said:

...maybe not such a problem in Texas.

Here, we spin more often due to being too dry, more than too wet! 🙂

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What is the engine braking feel compared to the 300RR?

E-Pure
SL350
Cota 349
Sherpa 159
How did I go?

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3 hours ago, kurtas said:

What is the engine braking feel compared to the 300RR?

E-Pure
SL350
Cota 349
Sherpa 159
How did I go?

Even with the Race models flywheel weights, there is essentially no engine braking. I thought that might be a big concern on downhills, but the brakes are so incredibly good, it is not an issue. Different than engine braking, but in the same vein, is how quickly rolling off the throttle stops forward momentum. A petrol engine will fire, Sith some authority, several more times after you roll off the throttle. Not so with this bike. Turn off the throttle and the motor output follows IMMEDIATELY. Very much an adjustment curve. Especially for things like double-blips, for crossing logs and such.

Surprised you could see enough of the 349 to identify it! That is a 1982 that I just finished restoring. Restoration Video

The Sherpa is the bit more rare, in the US anyway, 1976 Model 158. The SL350 is a 1973, with 2,700 miles, from a barn find estate sale! Mind blown when I found that one. Not in the photos is my 1970 SL100, that I have owned since new, I am currently in the reassembly steps of restoring it.

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On 6/25/2021 at 2:02 PM, kurtas said:

What is the engine braking feel compared to the 300RR?

E-Pure
SL350
Cota 349
Sherpa 159
How did I go?

As dgshannon said, there is no engine braking. You can get a fixed regenerative braking button which plugs straight in. I've been told that provides braking roughly equivalent to engine braking on a petrol bike. I'm still making up my mind whether to get one.

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fixed regenerative braking is the way to go I find myself using it instinctively even in sections now and it also puts ZZZZZ back in the box. 

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 Has anyone ridden one with the tickover feature that can explain how it works?

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8 hours ago, motovita said:

 Has anyone ridden one with the tickover feature that can explain how it works?

Very curious to here about that, as well. I am hoping that EM gets into supporting controller updates. Montesa allows you to flash a new map to their fuel injection. Nice if we could flash new features (such as Tickover) and maps, to ours. For example, I really have ZERO use for 300 mode, but it would be nice to have a map sitting between 125 & 250 mode instead.

Edited by dgshannon

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On 7/27/2021 at 2:04 PM, dgshannon said:

 For example, I really have ZERO use for 300 mode, but it would be nice to have a map sitting between 125 & 250 mode instead.

Absolutely agree. Though my top preference would be a map specifically for super-slippery stuff.

Alternatively, a means of deleting the red map altogether. So one push would take you from blue to green. I'm sure I could find uses for that mid-section, but the thought of accidentally giving the button one push when I intended two gives me the willies.

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On 7/26/2021 at 11:10 PM, motovita said:

 Has anyone ridden one with the tickover feature that can explain how it works?

I saw a video, just yesterday, of a user demoing tickover. The map button has moved to the left handlebar, and if I understood correctly, there are twice as many map options. 3 without tickover and 3 with. First click was normal 125 mode, second click was 125 with tickover, etc. What tickover does is simulate idle. With it turned on, you MUST pull in the clutch to stop, just as with a petrol bike. Essentially, it just spools up the electric motor a bit so that it cannot drop to zero power out. You could take your hand off the throttle and idle around as you would with a running engine.

It might be nice, but I don't think I am going to lose sleep over mine not having it. For a fresh convert to the bike, it is a shock when you first start learning that turning the throttle fully off immediately stops forward momentum. You just sort of learn not to go totally back to zero, unless you want that.

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1 hour ago, trapezeartist said:

...the thought of accidentally giving the button one push when I intended two gives me the willies.

I didn't snap till just recently that the audible sound is different for each map. I am going to have to pay more attention and learn which is which, rather than peaking down at the light color.

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10 hours ago, dgshannon said:

I saw a video, just yesterday, of a user demoing tickover. The map button has moved to the left handlebar, and if I understood correctly, there are twice as many map options. 3 without tickover and 3 with. First click was normal 125 mode, second click was 125 with tickover, etc. What tickover does is simulate idle. With it turned on, you MUST pull in the clutch to stop, just as with a petrol bike. Essentially, it just spools up the electric motor a bit so that it cannot drop to zero power out. You could take your hand off the throttle and idle around as you would with a running engine.

It might be nice, but I don't think I am going to lose sleep over mine not having it. For a fresh convert to the bike, it is a shock when you first start learning that turning the throttle fully off immediately stops forward momentum. You just sort of learn not to go totally back to zero, unless you want that.

 The question rattling around in my head is what happens if you lock the rear wheel without pulling the clutch lever in???

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7 hours ago, motovita said:

 The question rattling around in my head is what happens if you lock the rear wheel without pulling the clutch lever in???

If it’s anything like e-bikes, I’d assume the brake sensor switch cuts output to the drivetrain to avoid mashing up the innards. 

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