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My Suzuki DS 185


Ftwelder
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I saw this junk bike in a local ad (as mentioned in another post) and thought it would be fun to have something besides my OSSA to ride twin shock. It was $120.

51280555354_4b4838f99c_b.jpg119179364_3280092998770353_632717131603431554_n by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I have a 1984 KX 250 rear wheel, KDX drum front wheel, TLR triple clamps Sherpa Betor forks and a well equipped welding shop. I am mostly modifying parts and cutting a few corners to get it done in case things need changing

Ill post up a bunch of photos tonight and more in the next couple days and I hope you find it interesting.

Motor looks nice. I know it's rusted solid so I have very low expectations.

51279828006_78e7de7ee1_b.jpgDS185 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I had already made half of the fuel tank learning my English wheel and it looked enough like Suzuki for me to choose this bike.  I built up my wheels and measured the original frame. Ended up reducing the head angle by 10*. seen in this photo with stock forks and lowered shock mounts. I should have increased the rate of shock progression by angling the shocks more.

51280511429_8735e00923_b.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I lowered the seat tubes more.

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6.2 thick T6 6061.

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Some end work. More later, thanks for looking.

51279784031_5470914316_b.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, teamferret said:

That's a lot of work, but looking good. The 185 is a great engine, the crankcase reed valve works well. Junk the carb for an OKO or similar

THANKS FOLKS!  I like how cheap and plentiful the parts are. I have all bearings and seals for the inside of engine. Agreed on the OKO I have one on my OSSA and get on pretty well. 

I found a port map on line and when comparing found that my exhaust port is 2mm taller so it's possible there is a barrel with a lower state-of-tune that was also reed induction.

I did as much research as I could before tampering with the frame and came up with a geometry I wanted to try and to do so would need to also change fork offset. I have some RL forks as well as the stock ones but found neither suitable so I went with Honda crowns (CNC units from WC machine) and Sherpa Betor forks.

I noticed the original head tube bores were destroyed from lack of maintenance so I reamed the nominal bore in the head tube to 34.9mm and made an arbor with a facing mill and milled the cups from the end of the head tube.

51280511439_b51905f8b1_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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I made some new cups that fit 14mm tall tapered bearings and pressed them into the 34.9 bore and TIG welded them in. I somehow managed to make the bearing fit loose (poor QC is my guess) on the upper cup but we have chemicals to make that problem go away.

Next thing on the list was to compete the fuel tank. I had a lot of fun hammering out the first side but it took a lot to get it smooth. My shop makes bicycles so the gas cap thread is the same as the non drive side of a bicycle bottom bracket shell! 1.37X24 BSA.

51295981345_d0bc897613_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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Next thing was to build an exhaust. I have software for designing expansion chambers but none of that really applies. I purchased some stainless bends in the same diameter as the original head pipe and constructed a long head pipe then made a box with a steep baffle cone thinking this may be a good start point.

51308518990_bcc6af2d33_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Most trials exhausts that have expansion chamber tuning have very shallow angle cones,for example the air cooled Beta. The exhausts that look to have steep cones I believe are actually absorber mid boxes with perforated tubes through the middle and packing around the tube. 
Are you doing anything to increase flywheel weight?

“My shop makes bicycles” Understatement!

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9 hours ago, htrdoug said:

Most trials exhausts that have expansion chamber tuning have very shallow angle cones,for example the air cooled Beta. The exhausts that look to have steep cones I believe are actually absorber mid boxes with perforated tubes through the middle and packing around the tube. 
Are you doing anything to increase flywheel weight?

“My shop makes bicycles” Understatement!

I saw photos of either a Bultaco or Montesa exhaust as you describe and I should be able add some disruptive features in mine as needed as the main section slips on.

I  have room to bond a weight ring on the existing flywheel but haven't done anything about it yet.  I am quite lucky to live in an area with big machines laying around everywhere and cheap commercial space so I have a lot of both. My clothing is tattered and the car is junk so it's all a trade!

 

 

 

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I wanted smooth side panels and looked forward to making them. My early air box attempts were not very good so I copied the OSSA filter housing and started by making the left side panel.

51536119197_50f7ebb8f6_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I made the air filter housing from two pieces. First was a foam block shaped to fit the inside of the left side cover and the second was cast on the inside of a silicon reducer elbow. I made a ton of mistakes but learned quite a bit.

51511647467_c3279964c7_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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51536119242_101740ecca_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

 

 

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A lot of work going into this, fair play. As mentioned before you may want to calm the motor down with a flywheel weight . The TS185 was still being produced a few years ago, it was a good motor as was the 250 . 

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On 10/4/2021 at 5:55 AM, teamferret said:

I think (90% sure) the RL250 flywheel will go straight on, but might be too heavy so try the TS250 which again has the same ignition system

I think I read that the TS250 motor was over 10kilos heavier than the 125 based 185 so I agree that is a good choice if it will fit.

On 10/6/2021 at 10:53 AM, htrdoug said:

Are you going to convert it to premix only as you build the engine? Suzuki CCI only oils main bearings via the oil pump.

Yes, my plan is to delete the oil injection system and use premix. I hope to be able to provide a funnel from the transfer port to the right side bearing and delete the deflector on the crank. The left side is fuel lubed like normal. I hope it works out.

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Thanks again for following along.  I mounted the pipe and it was a little "proud" from the frame rails so I squeezed it in the press to be able to fit a cover on.

My original plan was do this quickly on a budget, I then went a little deep (time wise) on the fuel tank and the pipe pays the price! Haha.  The cover is made so that is good.

Normally the Suzuki has a shoulder bolt welded in the frame for the shock mount. I cut off the stud and made them into sex nuts.  (if this isn't flagged it will be a miracle) which as you know makes bike narrower. When I did that, I tapped all the way through to use as needed.  That is what the bracket is anchored to.

51564049085_5725723b78_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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We are caught up and things will go a bit slower. The good news is I have NJB trial ultimate shocks delivering next week. I hope to have the motor together in a couple weeks. Cheers. Seat base is next.

 

 

 

Edited by Ftwelder
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On 10/4/2021 at 5:55 AM, teamferret said:

I think (90% sure) the RL250 flywheel will go straight on, but might be too heavy so try the TS250 which again has the same ignition system

I found one on the auction site, it's on the way!

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