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slowrider
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They're usually quite tight, helps to warm the piston and it should push out. You can also tap them out but you need to suppoprt the piston so that it doesn't get damaged against the studs and also that lateral force isn't imposed on the rod

You can also buy universal pin removal tools which are quite cheap

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On 12/31/2021 at 8:22 AM, slowrider said:

Well the right side looks clean, no metal draining out. tempted to leave it but not sure how often the crank seal needs to be replaced. Another dumb Dumb question, on my jap bikes the piston pin slides out after I remove the clips, on the Bul I removed the clips but the pin does not move, is it a press in rod pin? piston moves freely otherwise.

 

 

The ideal fit of the pin in the piston is such that it has no play when the motor is running. Aluminium expands more with increasing temperature than steel, so piston pins need to have a slight interference fit when at room temperature.

For this reason, it's fairly common (in any motorbike engine) that a piston pin may need more than a push with a finger to get them to move at room temperature. Common methods for dealing with this are to either warm up the piston or use a piston pin puller.

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Before i break out the impact to take off the flywheel nut and give the ignition a look see is it a standard rotation? BTW very little oil came out of the primary and secondary cases, but it looked clean, hope all is well inside. From what I gather it is normal for a lot of side to side play on the crank? very little movement tilting or up and down, the bearing seems tight. Went ahead and pulled the studs out to get the barrel off as they had rust and will be replaced. Hope this rust in the frame cleans up, going to be sand blasted before the powder coat.

 

 

bul rusty frame.jpg

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I should probably start a new thread about restoring my Sherpa! The list of parts I am going to have to buy is getting longer all the time! Any favorite suppliers out there? Hughs and Inmotion come to mind, any issues with these?

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