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slowrider
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On 2/2/2022 at 4:05 PM, woody said:

You need to put a picture of the part you're referring to as from your description it could be a preload spacer or an oil deflector. Preload spacers are alloy and sit on top of the fork spring under the cap. The oil deflector is steel and pushes up into the bottom of the spring and sits over the top of the damper rod. I'd guess it's the deflector you're asking about

Your damper rod is certainly different from any other Sherpa rod I've seen

If these are not the standard fork valves, should I use them? What did they come out of?

 

bul fork valves.jpg

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Well I tried Feked and trials france but neither site would let me buy anything, website was a POS. So I am off to motion since the wesite actually seems to work and take my money..very frustrating. Would like to go through Hughes, but his website is worthless also.

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On 2/9/2022 at 9:21 PM, slowrider said:

If these are not the standard fork valves, should I use them? What did they come out of?

 

bul fork valves.jpg

 

They could just be another, later variant of Betor damper rods, all the components are the same as the usual rods, just a different design but they function in the same way. If the forks work as they should there is no need to change them

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12 hours ago, slowrider said:

Looking for some nice foot pegs that are not weld on, something with a bling factor would also be nice

I think it's too late for that now, you've powder coated the frame, can't alter the original Bully footpeg brackets now without wrecking the coating.

I don't think you're slow enough in your thought process 'slowrider', you should procrastinate more like I like to do.

 

  • Haha 2
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17 hours ago, slowrider said:

Looking for some nice foot pegs that are not weld on, something with a bling factor would also be nice

 Assuming you're working on a Sherpa T, I think modern pegs in the original high mounts would look hideous. Pursang/Frontera pegs will fit and look original.

 I just looked at your earlier posts. Modern, thicker, gaskets in stead of the original paper type, will help with weld clearance on your cases, you may still need to do some grinding though.

Edited by motovita
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6 hours ago, fourex said:

I think it's too late for that now, you've powder coated the frame, can't alter the original Bully footpeg brackets now without wrecking the coating.

I don't think you're slow enough in your thought process 'slowrider', you should procrastinate more like I like to do.

 

Procrastinate is my middle name!

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Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm

 

bash plate.jpg

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3 hours ago, slowrider said:

Noticed that a lot of the screws used a star lock washer that dug into the aluminum, were those stock? not thrilled at the prospect of using those. On a side note, by the looks of the skid plate (bash plate for you UK guys) this bike was rode hard and put away wet! my thinking it may have been an ex pro bike? will have to see if I can dig up some history some day. So go for a new bash plate with wings to protect the cases? Hmmm

 

bash plate.jpg

Grib in Spain again,

https://www.grib.net/race/prestashop/gb/sump-plates/40-72-bultaco-sherpa-199-plus-7075-sump-plate.html

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To zerk or not to zerk, that is the question! I have seen some people add zerk fittings to the swing arm and after the nightmare it was to remove the bolt it may not be a bad idea, but what would be the prime location? underneath would be quickly damaged and so was thinking on top if I could get at it?

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