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rebuilding a 199


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Hi all. I joined this forum recently as I have a 350 Sherpa 199 (red / silver / black) that I want to restore to use for a but of fun (i.e. not concours).

I've gathered plenty of experience rebuilding / building bikes over the last 40 years or so, but do like to have a manual when I do an engine for things like wear limits on big ends / bore / crank runout / torque values etc., ohh, and a decent diagram or exploded view of the gearbox.

The bike has had little use and is pretty much stock, bar the universal plastic guards. It was 'parked' in '93 because the clutch was slipping (and I was about to go work abroad) I stripped and boxed it.  Having retired 3 years ago, and built a couple of classic race bikes (a 500 Drixton Honda and a TR750 Suzuki), the Bultaco is next on the list.

So, the simple question is:- are the Haynes manuals for Sherpas, which seem to apply only up to '75, any good for the 199 engine? Or, where can I find specific info for a 199  engine?  The rest of the bike is self-explanatory, and shouldn't be an issue to bring back to a nice usable condition.

(I'll not ask the question on how best to restore a red plastic tank - seems that's a wonderful debate - but I would buy an alloy tank if any are available).

Thanks in advance for any info or guidance,  and apologies if this query is repetitive or indeed, boring to all you seasoned trials guys.

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The Haynes manual will be sufficient to work on the later engine, or the 5 speed manual sold by In Motion. The basic engine layout is the same and the values you mention will all apply. There are small differences between earlier/later engines such as the 199 engine has a shim on the clutch side of the layshaft which you won't see in the manual. The clutch springs are on threaded studs and tensioned by nuts, whereas the manual shows the earlier cup/pin arrangement. The 199 final drive pinion runs on needle rollers as opposed to bushes on the earlier engine

When you reassemble be sure to test that you can select all gears with the gears and selectors assembled in the l/h casing. It's easy to get one of the selectors upside down as it will fit either way and if you do you can't select past 3rd gear. I think this is mentioned in the Haynes manual, not sure.

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