kobetsu Posted October 31, 2022 Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) Bike: GG 280 TXT PRO 2008 Hi all, I'm here for the first time, so appologise if I put this issue in wrong place. I'm sure each time you see "overheating" issue automatically you think... "no, another guy with fan problem". I'm trying to solve my issue from June this year. What's the problem... Problem is temp. of cooling liquid eaisly reaches over 110 degree so with clasic liquid means boiling and rest you know. I even could break pomp simering (attached as picture) - of course cooling tap is fully ok, open about 1 bar but with boiling liquid cannot handle this. Pomp is working and there is circulation of liquid (with transparent hose you can eaily see it). Fan in turing on about 65 degrees (even with short-circuit there is no significant difference). Ignition advance is about 20 degrees - I do not know if it is right value - no data to compare. I'm looking also for info what is typical temperature of liquid on idle, during light ride and heavy one. What was checked: 1. Different radiator 2. Mixture composition (lean/reach) 3. Even whole different carburetor 4. completely new water pomp 5. head and inner/outer orings replaced 6. different head 7. current regulator - check with completely new 8. short-circuit fan One time I succeed to fix problem... temp was 74 degree and goes up to 90 during ride then nicely back to 74 degrees. No idea what I did... my mistake was I took carburetor to consult spire set and when I assembled it back no more 74 degrees... only typical problem. I did not check yet flywheel and coils behid, ignition module. Any valuable ideas ? Serious comments ? Thanks Jan Edited October 31, 2022 by kobetsu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glayne Posted October 31, 2022 Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 Is the fan blowing hard enough, and spinning in the right direction? I have seen these fans wear out and while still spinning they are not spinning fast enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faussy Posted October 31, 2022 Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 Is your gearbox oil still that colour after the waterpump change?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glayne Posted November 1, 2022 Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 8 hours ago, faussy said: Is your gearbox oil still that colour after the waterpump change?? Noteworthy question, I totally missed that! At one time I used an oil that was clear and could look a bit like that, but it sure looks suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobetsu Posted November 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 (edited) Thanks for questions. So, Airflow is from outside, thorough radiator, to the direction of gassoline tank. About the speed of fan... I did not measure exactly speed but sound is correct IMHO and with 2 different modules result is the same. Anyway I think if fan is working and I back from high rpm to idle there should be observable temp going down (less heat from source with them same capability to obtain hear [radiator] - typical termo bilans) but temp is not going down or goes very very slowly and only few degree. Example: easy riding, I can reach 100 degree... keep bike idle and temp very slowly but increase or stay arround 100 (30 minutes on idle). Next time with the same experiment I have 100 degree and on idle temp goes down 1..2 degree and stay. If I have longer high speed ride easily I can reach over 115 which is extra stange because high spead should support better airflow (radiator is of course clean inside and outside). What you see on the picture is not oil but diesel oil. Picture was from begining of my problem solving and I use diesel to clean up engine interioir (temporary, easy method to clean up engine after cooling liquid and oil mixed). Now, when I have solution to measure temperature and never go over 110 degree no more mix liquid and oil, no more problems with water pomp simering. For now I use normal but cheap 10W40... keep my TrialClouch oil (the red one) for final celebration Edited November 1, 2022 by kobetsu 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glayne Posted November 1, 2022 Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 If you start it with the radiator cap off can you see good circulation of the coolant? And is the fluid still clean and not contaminated with combustion gasses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobetsu Posted November 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 (edited) I did it and what I saw I evaluated as "moving" liquid (cannot be sure as vibration of bike made liquid "shaked") - however with part of transparent hose I saw moving liquid. Checking combustion gases inside liquid is interesting idea - I did not check it - can tell something about problems with head/cilinder (micro-cracks). I will do that, thanks a lot. Edited November 1, 2022 by kobetsu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glayne Posted November 1, 2022 Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 If I run my 2012 Gasser with the rad cap off the coolant is moving around very rapidly. I'm starting to think your water pump impeller could be stripped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted November 1, 2022 Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 (edited) I am betting on the fan. Did you ever wire it to run all the time? It's old enough to be replaced. The biggest problem with a worn out fan, is it does not always start. Edited November 1, 2022 by lineaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobetsu Posted November 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2022 I tested fan being connected all the time (bypass thermostat). Water pomp had been replaced by completely new one and there was no effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glayne Posted November 2, 2022 Report Share Posted November 2, 2022 I know for sure you should really see the coolant cycling through the radiator rapidly, if it is not cycling rapidly that must be your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kobetsu Posted January 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2023 OK, problem solved. Just info for others... Primary source of problem was damages radiator cap which caused to high pressure in the system and finally bloating (sorry if this is not right word) of radiator. In result radiator couldn't work correctly and cool down liquid. After repairing radiator and replacing radiator cap I have: - idle work: up to 66 celcius degree - 30 minutes hard ride uphill: up to 100 celcius degree (never more) - if I slowdown, reduce speed, more idle: temperature going down... even to level when fan turns off My current radiator is not perfect, it is repaired, so using new one for sure results could be better. Thanks for all ideas and help. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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