Anyone cut and repacked their silencer without making it look like a dog's breakfast?

pictures?

I done about 4 of them

They look alright afterwards as long as you get someone who can weld properly.

If you are thinking of repacking the exhaust by cutting it open, the exhaust is split in to 2 compartments with an aluminium plate, the front half is packed with wire-wool (this part was ok, tho it may require excess oil/carbon to be burnt off) and the rear half is packed with a fiber glass material this can get burnt away with time so if you want to repack it I suggest you cut the exhaust outer skin in half just behind the spot welds, pull the rear of the exhaust off, this should leave the steel baffle pipe exposed then remove old packing and replace with new, slide the rear of the exhaust back on and get it welded back on.

Hope this helps, I'll try and sort you a picture out later

Cheers

Chris

(Edit pictures added)

Edited September 26, 200520 yr by Chris

Thanks for that. How quickly does yours need to be done?

I run a 200 which although it's a year old has not done much. It is now sounding a little crackly and certainly not so smooth at the bottom end.

Is there a way to repack without chopping them open?

Edited January 17, 200521 yr by dabber

If there are no rivets in it or bolted on at the end then cutting it open is really the only way. Instead of welding the exaust back together you can rivet it back on, so if it ever needs replacing again (and it will) you can just drill out the rivets and start over again.

Hope that helps,

Lloyd

I have done a couple of them as well, I have one in the middle stages in the garage at the moment as well I think.

What do you want to see a picture of?

Doug and I were kind of laughing about it when we did it, it just does not make economic sense, unless you happen to have a 5K$ chunk of machine sitting in the back corner of your shop that needs to be ran some, buy a new one.

I need the stick time, I loose what little touch I have when it goes too long without doing the TIG work, and believe me, there is a healthy dose of TIG time in putting one of those things together.

I use and reccomend the Moose packing,,, I have to go find the bag now, but it is loose threads instead of a woven matt. It makes it far easier to pack under the central tube. Well the wife cleaned up that part of the shop, that packing is never to be seen again! I think it is called silent sport??? Could be way off.

We have used stainless steel scrubbies as well as regular steel wool to repack the metal part with. Not sure which if either is better. The ones that I have done, have been so burned out that there was not much thought of re-using the metal wool stuff.

I did look, I have one apart in the shop, so can grab pictures if needed.

Alan, just pics of where to cut. Is it right round the circumference of the box.

How much is a new one?

I cut the original weld.

I will get Hanna to let me touch her camera tonight,,, Well, maybe I can talk her into taking the picture for me!

Price off the top of my head without looking, couple of hundred bucks.

Shop rate for TIG time, about $60 Pr. Hour.

Sorry, I did not get pictures last night, maybe tonight.

Spent my evening laying underneath a stump grinder trying to figure out how to adjust pillow blocks....... and a fun time was had by all!

Lucky old you!!

Why go to all the hassle of cutting your pipe open round the outside weld and then having to weld the thing back up at great expense, only to repeat the process next time you need to re-pack?

You can get a door welded in the back and fixed with some screws so you can repack as many times as you like for no cost!

Like this........

Cool,,,

Did you weld a shelf in there to bolt it too?

Do you seal it with RTV or such and does it not blow out?

Looks like a good deal.

Yeah, exactly! a shelf just wide enough to screw into (or attach clinch nuts in this case) and just use some silicone to help seal it, never leaked yet! flush fitting too so your tyre doesn't rub.

I suppose you could position the "door" out of sight on the Sherco?

dabber

I've took some pic's for you and put them up on trialstalk if you want to have a look

(Edit pic's added to post at top of the page)

Hope this helps

Chris

Edited September 26, 200520 yr by Chris

You dont want to be cutting it open put a spud in the exhaust pipe end fill it with petrol alchohol or some solvent ,swill it about leave it for a while then swill it again, spud out tip the gunge out all clean when u start it up flames come out of it then it looks like its got loads more power PS you will also need a new mudguard and trousers