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  2. Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    My top race stuck out a few mm which made me think that the steering head had been modified, glad to know that it isn't the case. The lower inner race can be removed by removing the bolt through the lower clamp & pressing the shaft out, you have to make sure the relief for the bolt is lined up when refitting but it's a pretty easy job 1 of those sets of races is definitely scrap, normally it would be the lower as that's where water can collect. You do want to use the lower seals for this reason
  3. Today
  4. Kt250 spoke length

    I saw the other side via some other photos which were posted on Facebook. I saved the photos and will post them up soon
  5. Gas Gas JTR160 clutch issues

    I wouldn't drill out the back of the piston as that would weaken it. I have a new slave kit that I would need to locate first, that I could take a photo of the bearing height, measure it and let you know. I tried running 4 clutch springs on a 330 GG years back, was much easier on your finger, but would slip with a handful of revs in 4th, probably fine on a 160. Bye, Peter B.
  6. Actually I was being serious, I did not see the observers hand signal a 5....which is pretty much how trials has always been marked with or without the use of a whistle. and with the rider continuing I was not positive if a 5 was actually designated. I am not familiar with all the reasons that a whistle is sounded, so far I only have heard it used as a way of signalling the rider they may enter the section. I do appreciate the clarification that a 5 was indeed awarded for dislodging the marker
  7. Thanks for all the answers (altho I didn't get the piece of string reference...). The 400 hours is based on riding 3 times a week for about 1.5 hours of bike running per session for about 30 weeks a year. Maintenance wise, here is what has been done: when I bought the bike I took it completely apart and even stripped the frame to the bare metal to inspect and have a few issues fixed: dings in the upper frame tube, rear engine mount cracked. I had the frame, swingarm and fork bottoms powder coated. I rebuilt the rear suspension (all bearings, bushings, seals and fork (seals, bushings, oil change) and the steering bearings. Rebuilt the front and rear brake calipers with new seals all around, new pads too. Then the usual new grips, folding lever, ban ends, chain and sprockets, new air filter, cleaned (ultrasonic) and rebuilt the carb, new reeds (carbon), new sparkplug, and new plastic and sticker kit all around (I recommend the Jitsie rear fender - indestructible!). Since that initial work, I have changed the bash plate and rubbers twice a year (yeah, sportsman rider here!). I check the wheels and rim every time I change the tires (see my other post on corroded rear rim). Wheel bearings are fine, but since they are cheap I'll probably change the this winter anyways. The rear engine mount cracked again (other one), so I had that fixed too. Engine wise I rebuilt the water pump, changed the radiator (bad fall!), fan (whinny fan syndrome due failed bearing) and the hoses (silicone ones). I had to change the clutch basket / main drive gear (see my other post on that, my mistake, the thrust bearing fell in the engine when I put the side case back). New kickstarter seal. I have a brand new exhaust (full set that I got from a guy who turned a brand new bike into an electric one) that I'll probably put on at one point, maybe this winter. Things to do this winter: full service (break it down to the frame, check and lube all the bearing and seals, replace the ones need replacement), new grips, fluid flush (coolant, brake, clutch), new fork (I bent the Marzocchi and I just bought a used Tech in like new condition), probably new rear shock (Ohlins). New wheel bearings, new bash plate and associated rubber pads. Switch from the Dell'Orto to a PWK (carb, intake manifold, reed box, cable). New clutch plates. Probably new clutch pedal (current one is wobbly and has been bent a couple of time). I'll probably throw in a new piston and rings too while the engine it out of the frame. Full bottom end rebuild will probably wait another year... Thanks again for the help.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Don't forget to strip down the whole bike while youre at it .......I mean everything with that many hours on the bike the forks will need new damping cartridges new bushings and seals all the wheel bearings will need changing and have the hubs checked with dye under ultra violet for stress cracks ...any spokes and nipples that have corroded and are fused will need changing and the rims need checking for trueness and de stressing......better get a new rear shock as well; you do not want that collapsing with catastrophic results......the frame will need checking for stress and cracks..... if that fails youre really in it ...probably best to get a new one to be on the safe side....change the sump guard as well as a deformed one may lead to stress in the frame that leads to cracks in the motor casings.....the dog bones will need renewing and linkage bearings all replacing ....swing arm needs testing for cracks before that ends in some hapless spectators being maimed.......that things an accident waiting to happen. the gearbox will need replacing as well that will have taking a bashing over the years.
  10. Kt250 spoke length

    I'd like to see the other side Guy
  11. TLR200 running right?

    The standard gearing on TLR is too high - put a smaller front sprocket on and second becomes much more tractable and manageable - in fact first is only for slow down hill descents
  12. In my largely worthless opinion, 500 hours is about time to do a piston and rings.
  13. TLR200 running right?

    If it’s better in first than it is in second it could be the rear wheel sprocket needs to be bigger or maybe a tooth off the gearbox sprocket might help. Get the carburation set up to eliminate any rough running, small engines...it’s only a 200 so shouldn’t have much effect upon slow riding!
  14. How many hours before top end rebuild (2013 TXT PRO 250)

    B’dang..ding, ding, ding...B’dang..ding, ding, ding...well that sounds ok I’ll leave it until it goes pop!!! 2013 unknown hours of operation on a two stroke plus the additional 400 hours added by the current owner...that would be a good time to lift the barrel and have a look see what wear is taking place. It’s better than internet crystal ball gazing🔮😎At least you would finally know what the actual mechanical condition wear wise of the top end is in. If you equate hours to miles at say (for a Trials bike) using your known 400 hours multiplied by a nominal 15 miles per hour you arrive at 6,000 miles. So if the previous owner warmed the engine up before use and did all the planned maintenance when needed let’s guesstimate at least the same amount of time/hours so that’s another 6,000 miles totalling 12,000 miles. Yes I know that the bike did not cover 15 miles constantly, this would have been stop, start running interspersed with high revs and medium revs to very low revs running, but you need a reference data point. As it’s a 2013 model it’s at least 5 years old and if I owned said bike it would be having new crankshaft oil seals, and dependant upon what was found wear wise at least new rings. The barrel would be decoked together with the exhaust system. Due to the vagueness of actual hours of engine usage, remember my data reference has no idling and blipping the throttle time added, to an extent I too am crystal ball guessing so nothing is an exact science here, but I would be planning to strip the top end🙂👍
  15. Still can't find the missing needle bearing - advice?

    It never hurts to strip an engine down to its component parts and thoroughly inspect everything, especially an older machine. The crankshaft big-end and connecting rod could be scrutinised for signs of wear, or other damage. The crankshaft main bearings and seals for what they cost would be my first items for replacement. All of the gaskets are available from good suppliers, as are quite a few component parts. I’d do a search on wearing items and try to pin down any known weaknesses so that these can be dealt with effectively. Even though with crankcase well oiled it is not really going to tell you if the seals have gone hard or perished etc. which would give rise to engine running issues. A Clymer or Haynes manual would certainly be a help. Take photographs as you take the engine apart, if you choose this route, it will be good for reassembly and also for any future buyer. You never know you might even find that elusive😳 roller bearing!🙂👍
  16. How many hours before top end rebuild (2013 TXT PRO 250)

    If it runs fine with no untoward noises just keep riding it.
  17. 2019 gearing?

    Anyone ridden a 2019? Contents in the stock gearing compared to previous years? It looks like they changed the final drive gearing to 10/39, but I'm not sure about any internal gearing changes. I typically take my GG's to 10/42 from the standard 11/42, which is nice since front sprockets are cheap and the stock gearing is way too tall for our terrain.
  18. Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    thanks ric h! im just concerned that the tapered lower race for the top on the all balls kit is larger than the original lower race. it sticks out a wee bit more than the recess allows. is this is a biggie or is this why tony27 had to leave off the dust cap? thanks for the confirmation that they are shot though, out with the old in with the new!
  19. Gas Gas JTR160 clutch issues

    You can lead a horse.........
  20. Gas Gas JTR160 clutch issues

    You do realise that this is a video and you clic on the arrow in the center to see it .......you said that your clutch has 4 springs and you do not know why ....if you watch the video it tells you why.
  21. Red Rose Classic MCC

    The next round of the RRCMCC Club Championship will be held on SATURDAY November 10th at 10.30am More details and directions to the venue can be found on the clubs website. Regards, Neil Chairman RRCMCC
  22. Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    It's all apart anyway.the outer races look f'd to me.Cut a groove in the stem race with a dremel making sure to not cut all the way thru.Then give it a big whack with a chisel and hammer.It will crack it making it easy to slide off.
  23. Villiers Clutch

    Ah, OK - I was thinking maybe 6/7/8E, in which case the 9E conversion from Paul Powell at Cotton Villiers Spares is the answer. Can't help with the 31A motor, sorry !
  24. Gas Gas JTR160 clutch issues

    Thanks much! I can see that ball bearing way back there. Was not sure if it was a ball or the way this piston was milled. It also has a bit of a flat on it. I will try and freeze this piece to see if the ball will dislodge upon a good whacking against a table top. If that does not work I can drill a wire size hole at the back and push it out. Can fill that tiny hole easy enough. Off to Ace Hardware to see if I can source a 6mm ball baring and some 25mm O rings to replace the seals that are around the piston. Also noticed some scoring on one side of the piston and inside the slave. Have removed it with some crocus cloth.
  25. Villiers Clutch

    It's a 31A with a challenger top end. the clutch if fine but stiff. I tried softer springs but then i got clutch slip in the higher gears. it wouldn't be an issue, but I have a dislocated shoulder so can't develop much power with my left hand. I converted the triumph twin engine to hydraulic but technically that's against the rules. You can have a 2017 Drayton Bantam but a simple clutch mod is not allowed.
  26. A good friend of mine, who rides trials regularly all through the year, went 10 years on a GG 330 without taking the head and cylinder off, and it still did not rattle and still performed as good as the day he bought it. There would have been many more hours than 400 on that bike. If you haven't drowned your bike in water and the motor doesn't have a piston rattle and it is still going well, then I'd be inclined to leave it alone, the top end is rather hard wearing with a nikasil bore, as mentioned earlier and rings which I am pretty sure are nitrided. Bye, Peter B.
  27. Gas Gas JTR160 clutch issues

    Looking at the photo of the slave cylinder, there is a 5 or 6mm diameter ball bearing that, from memory, sits flush with the top surface of the hole in the slave piston. These ball bearings have been known to become pushed further in over the course of time, eventually going in so far as to give the symptoms of what you are experiencing. The slave piston, when actuated would come to a mechanical stop on the crank case before the clutch was fully disengaged and the clutch lever would feel as though it has reached it's actuating limits. A replacement slave cylinder kit is needed, if this is the case. You may be able to try inserting an extra ball bearing, that can be removed, just to try this out to make sure that this is the problem. With regards to the gearbox oil, for over 25 years we have run ATF rated to Dexron III in all models of Gas Gas trials bikes without problems. For your model, the gearbox is stated taking 700ml, you are absolutely fine to run with 600ml, from the factory. Bye, Peter B.
  28. TLR200 running right?

    Hi Check the final drive sprocket see if the layshaft it sits on is worn . It will always be snatchy if it is.
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