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  2. Hmmmm porky according to the specs. I reckon this calls for an official weigh-off of TL320 vs Jumbo
  3. I don't know enough about your cylinder or rings to say
  4. Hi again guys is there any trick to getting off a seized on kick start I’ve followed the removal process by undoing the Allen bolts and using the lever to prize it off the splines. looking for top now how to remove I’ve soaked it in release agent thanks
  5. Nice. no worn out bearings. Check your clutch. (Water can unglue discs friction material).
  6. All bikes will do that when cold, they run leaner, even when you take the choke off the bike is still warming up for the next minute or so. As pindie says, if this disappears when warm, its nothing to worry about, if theres still a slight hint, then its indicating you are too lean.
  7. Some specs I've found.
  8. Welcome back to trials mate! You're never too old for bikes, met a chap last year who was riding his first ever trial at 72!
  9. Hi Peter, From past experience i can say that it may not be the thermostat, because when you bridge the fan circuit connector which the thermostat plug is pushed into, you automatically move the wiring harness. There is another plug in that area which has two yellows in and two whites out, that is the power from the generator to the voltage regulator which eventually supplies the fan. The cables may be run tightly near this plug and with washing etc the connection in the plug may not be good enough. With the fan connector linked try wiggling the wires and see if the fan stops and starts, but it does no harm to open and close these plugs to make sure that the contacts are clean and good and able to take current. Obviously if you link the fan connector and the fan runs constantly when you wiggle all the connectors, the thermostat is at fault. Hope this helps! 2018 Wiring diagram.pdf
  10. Is it worth cleaning the inside of the cylinder with a scotch pad too?
  11. I haven't played with a Sherco primary drive but it would be very unusual for those gears to be worn. Some clutches have a cushion drive between the clutch gear and the basket and they can get a bit of inconsequential play. Go ahead and try acetone if you want. It didn't work for me and before you ask, neither did throttle body cleaner, methylated spirits, kero, turps, eucalyptus oil, melaleuca oil, methanol or WD40. I didn't try xylene on its own. An alternative to paint stripper that would also work but risk taking off some metal would be to degrease then bead blast.
  12. Thanks again Feetupfun, I can only just feel a very light score line above one of the ports, but I really have to use a fingernail to detect it (by no means the worst I have ever seen) Would acetone be any good for cleaning the piston rings & groves? On another note how much movement/rotational play should there be between the primary gear? When I hold the clutch basket still and rotate the flywheel there is a bit of movement, enough to make a small noise, is this normal of square gears?
  13. Does it bog if the choke is on when cold starting? Could be you are right on the edge of lean when cold, no choke. It then bogs if you ask for throttle. However, once warmed up the motor doesn’t need as much fuel so you don’t get the bog. Don’t forget you have an air screw. You could try 1/8th to a 1/4 turn in (richer) to see if it helps?
  14. At Ebay. Problem can be to find correct dimensions. If your stanchions are as thin as 30mm there will be problem as SKF start at 35mm. Kit 35M (35x47x10) fit many classic bikes. SKF also make for DH-bicycles. Perhaps you can find something there. http://www.jwtimports.com.au/downloads/SKF-Fork-Seal-Measuring-Guide.pdf.
  15. Hi Mark. Any good TIG welder should be able to weld that fork up with no hassles. I don`t know if you can swap the sides without any problems though. Someone on here must know though. Graham.
  16. attention. your picture the choke is not in the off position. ITis partially still on. I WILL RUN LIKE CRApola.
  17. I'm not willing to risk with LiPo and don't really want to geek out on stuff or have some super fancy setup. Any problem with just buying 3 of these and running in a 3s setup and then either charging as 3s or having a separate connector to charge them individually? I might go for 20AH version too, spendy but I like the idea of having tons of range. https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Lithium-Rechargeable-2500-7000-lifetime/dp/B07X3Y3LS5?th=1 They look like they got a good BMS in them so I'm thinking if I charge them as-is (3s) with enough voltage they'll be fine, no?
  18. feetupfun

    Thread Pitch

    M6 x 1.0 is what is on all my Bultacos with mounts like that
  19. Yes that sounds like a good plan. Sounds like you found the source of the noise. Very light scoring is normal to find. If you can feel lines then there is a problem. If it was me I would also clean the rings and ring grooves (using non-caustic paint stripper and a tooth brush) and clean any carbon off the piston crown and exhaust port with either a scotchbrite pad or bead blasting.
  20. Hi All, Can a spilt in the outer [foral] be repaired and can I change outers so that the repaired fork can be put on the spring side only side and use the better outer for the damping side? Thanks P.S. I have seen some reference to conventional fork conversions. Is this hassle free or do brakes, wheels [and obviously triple clamps] need changing?
  21. model80

    Thread Pitch

    One brilliant side effect of this Social Isolation is that I have plenty of garage time to finally get dug into my 199B restoration. I notice this evening when attempting to fit the rear shocks that one of the threaded dowls to hold the Shocks to the Swinging arm has been powder Coated inside and has clogged the threads. What size tap must I use to redress the threads. Is it Metric or Metric Fine? Here a link of the type of screws and washers I’ll be using. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/rear-shock-fixing-kit-silver/
  22. Where do you get green skf seals?
  23. Sorry Basil I missed your reply way back then - ended up buying a complete linkage and shock [mine was blown] and replaced the lot.
  24. retromlc

    clutch advice

    It's a 4t so can that be different options as well
  25. Yesterday
  26. Hi All New member just signed up. I've been using this site as a guest for long enough so thought I ought to sign up. When I retired a few years ago I decided I was too old for bikes so sold bike and all my odds and ends. Few years on and bored I yielded to ebay temptation and bought myself an absolute wreck of a Bultaco 250, 198A for not much money. Having great fun working on it even if by the time I've finished it wont be a cheap option! Always fancied a trials bike, lean and functional that's how I like them. Now we are all on lockdown my wife is even glad to get rid of me for most of the day in the garage. Biggest issue with the bike is undoing the handiwork of previous owners. Some people should be kept away from doing anything mechanical by law in my opinion. Anyway hope to pick the brains of the Bultaco experts on the forum soon as there are a few things I need to sort out. Take care all in these times of the Coronavirus and enjoy your biking, whatever it is.
  27. Thanks! I cleaned the carb recently so I’ll take it apart and check it again tomorrow. I was planning on replacing the air filter and cleaning out the air box soon so I’ll do that tomorrow too, to make sure no crap could get into the carb. Makes sense that it would be the pilot jet since it idles perfectly but as soon as I touch the throttle it bogs. What I find strange is why it doesn’t do it when I rev up from idle when warmed up?
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