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  1. Today
  2. Camionjeep

    Down under and new.

    Thanks feetupfun, I'll start playing with oils. Glad I didn't go the ATF which would have been my first choice.
  3. tony27

    Fantic Section fan/ thermostat problems

    Easiest way to make sure the fan motor works is to join the 2 wires to the thermoswitch together, either use a short piece of wire with the correct spade teminals on the ends or just use a paperclip. I have the piece of wire in the bottom of my bag that is always with me on the bike to make sure if something does happen I can always ride back to my car especially when trail riding When the motor is running the fan should work by doing this, if it doesn't then either your fan motor or 1 of the wires is faulty
  4. Yesterday
  5. wastegate

    Its only been 32 years since I last tried it.

    Cheers guys. Sadly I was already in my late 20's when I first tried it! However I may try and get out in a local trials day later in the year as it did look just a nice day out meeting lots of friendly people. I went to take a look at the local club ground straight after and people seemed just as nice then. I just need to get the bike sorted and some way of lugging it about other then taking out the wheels and putting it in the back of the car .... somewhat beyond me if on my own.
  6. Hi guys I have recently got hold of a 1995 Fantic Section 249r. It is not on the original engine because the previous owner will and truly ruined it so the new one is date stamped 94. After a few electrical problems I’ve finally got it running and the engine is sweet however I run it to see if the fans was working but it doesn’t seem to kick in. I’ve had the thermostat rethreaded into the top of the cylinder cos someone had ruined the threads. Is there anyway of testing the stat or fan to see if they actually work? Many thanks Luke
  7. Search Craigslist for Trials. There is a nice Beta on there now but it would be a drive for you. Lewisport is the biggest dealer and worth a call. You can also go to a Sac PITS event to see if any are for sale.
  8. faussy

    Rear tyre

    Ive stopped using the xlite purely because of their wear rate and lack of value for money. I ended up using them at slightly higher pressure to avoid punctures and when i did i hardly noticed any difference in grip to the standard x11. I run x11s Fuji doesn't 😂
  9. jonct

    Montesa 348 Shocks

    Great, thank you!
  10. nh014

    Montesa 348 Shocks

    Standard length on the 348's was 340 mm (13.4 ").
  11. rev3ste

    Hello from North Lincs

    I struggled on the first lap but once I found my feet I managed okay I think. The climb out of section 2 caught me out a couple of times! I managed to complete the 5 laps, took a few 5's but I'm happy to have finished at least 🙂 looking forward to the next one!
  12. jonct

    Montesa 348 Shocks

    Hello, I’m working on putting together a 348 MRR that I picked up in boxes...the shocks that came with it are 325mm ctc telesecos that appear original. Does anyone know the proper length of rear shocks? Thanks, Jon
  13. 4stroke

    Hello from North Lincs

    How did you get on Steve? You looked to be doing ok from what I saw. Didn't get a chance to say hello but hope to see you at the next one as well!
  14. cascadeimp1

    Rear tyre

    If you see any of the top Japanese riders on Youtube, you may notice that they are all on Dunlops. Seem to work for them.
  15. I’m looking to buy an newer Moto trials bike. I live in Bay Area, California. Anyone have ideas on where to start looking. 5,000 is about tony budgeting
  16. owlit

    1974 Ossa MAR

    Any chance you could get your case welded, I'm sure someone will know someone who specialises in this kind of work?
  17. betaboy100

    Rear tyre

    Yeah mainly use the bike on rocks. X light seemed to wear very quickly when i had one previously. So probably best going for the X11 then?
  18. cord

    Maxxis Trialmaxx

    I've got a pair on my Montesa. Rear tubeless, front tubed. They fitted no problem. On wet rocks they aren't as good as D803 or X11's, but only by a small margin. Dry rocks i can't tell any difference. I'm running 3 psi rear, 5 in the front. In the mud, they are a vast improvement, When you have traction and are riding around they definitely have a slight bit more grip, but if you break traction and spin up a trials tyre its incredibly hard to get it to bite again, the Trialmaxx still supllies drive when it's spinning, and is far easier to find grip again once you stop spinning. Sloppy mud and wet grass are where these tyres shine.
  19. lineaway

    Rod Kit Install Difficult?

    Well if you are looking at it, you should be able to tell if you are tooled up enough to do it. The last time I looked at one I passed as I did not want to screw with someone elses crank. If it was mine, I might of tried. I have done a few dozen over the years, but all solid cranks.
  20. gasserguy

    Rear tyre

    No one uses Pirelli for a reason. Utter rubbish but ok on a trail bike but not a trials bike IRC & Michelin around the same price,Dunlop OK'ish... IRC for mud, X11 rocks. X llights good all rounder.......
  21. lineaway

    Evo 250 Clutch

    Being my Japanese is non existant, I am hoping for better clutch action. As eliminating clutch drag and a better hitting clutch. I have known about the shim trick for years , but could never find them thin enough till recently.
  22. David Stevens

    Vertigo 250 Fajardo Replica

    Time Left: 27 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For sale due to ongoing injury, Having to retire from trialing, Bought new in July 2017 it has only done 6 clubman trials and is in perfect condition, road registered, carbon exhaust guard, factory aluminium No board, fork protectors, brilliant bike to ride with amazing suspension, fairly new pair of Alpinestars Tech T boots ( size 44.5) and Airoh carbon helmet thrown in if price is right plus lots of oils etc. Phone 07977312136

    4,700.00 GBP

  23. betaboy100

    Rear tyre

    Is there a massive difference between the michelin x11 comp and other brands? There seems to be quite a price difference compared to the pirelli tyres.
  24. ar22

    Beta Bolt Kits?

    I just bought them on ebay, various lengths available so no cutting required and they are very cheap
  25. mcman56

    Rod Kit Install Difficult?

    lineaway - Can you elaborate? It there nothing square to the pin to push on? I have not split the cases yet but do see quite a bit of plastic on the crank.
  26. dan williams

    Evo 250 Clutch

    Was many years ago so I don’t even remember.
  27. woody

    1974 Ossa MAR

    Sounds as though you may have a case from an earlier model Pioneer as most early Ossas had small crank assemblies. The early MAR - MK1 from 72/73, engine number begins 34 - also had a smaller crank assembly than the MK2 onwards - yours will be a NK2 as it's 74. As it is a 74 model the layshaft will run in bronze bushes so you need one from 74 - 76 engine, in late 76/77 the layshaft assembly was changed to run in needle rollers not bushes and although the shafts look identical they are slightly different in length and diameter so won't interchange (they might assemble but the gearbox won't work properly) You need an engine from a MAR that begins 21, 22 or 23. I don't know much about Explorer specs but think one beginning 44 or 45 might match the MAR but not sure - if you could find one as they're rare in UK. Ossa ID chart here with chassis numbers (applies to engine also as they're the same) http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/reference/ossaref.html
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