Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Will do I was just looking for some views. Maybe not the best person to comment though because I've never really noticed any difference in the maps on my enduro bikes. Lol.
  3. Good to hear thanks for the info
  4. The outer pressure plate has a dot on it which needs to be aligned with a corresponding dot on the hub or basket.
  5. As my previous threads have said I've bought an unused 2020 260 mont. It is brand new and unused. Oddly I noticed play in the top shock bearing. I tried to tighten up the bolt but it was tight enough. I took off the shock and it appears the bushes do not sit properly in the spherical bearing. I'm convinced either the factory has fitted the wrong bearing to the correct bushes or vice versa. After noticing that my chain tensioner block had been fitted upside down nothing would suprise me. Aren't dealers supposed to pdi bikes ? Im wondering if maybe the factory fitted showa bushes or bearings onto Olle bearings or bushes. They would have had both in the factory for the different spec bikes. If you look at the photos of both bushes they look pretty identical but I'm not sure if they are incompatible. They certainly have different prices so maybe they are. Interestingly the shock bolt was one of the few bolts that didn't have the inspection paint blob on from the factory. I've just taken my shock up to my local trials shop so they can get to the bottom of it and save me ordering parts unnecessarily.
  6. I am on a 2017 Montesa 300 RR, put mine on the coolant hose right from the start and haven't had any issues with damage yet. I can't recommended following my lead but its working for me and I plan to keep it this way unless something unexpected happens. Good luck. PS. I rotated my switch up so it is less likely to get bumped by my leg or a crash.
  7. My mate who had four 4rts in a row said to fit a fast throttle too. I may try the one off my beta and see how it rides.
  8. Here is a photo of the switch mounted on a coolant hose. I just wonder if the heat will damage the switch or cause issues
  9. I found that the map switch didn't seem to make a lot of a difference for me tell I swapped out the throttle tube from the black/slow to a white/fast tube. At that point the difference between the wet and dry map settings became much more noticeable in my option. Hope that helps.
  10. Yesterday
  11. I sold my 4RT a few years ago but the service manual said Mode 1 (press small button) is for dry terrain. Mode 2 (press big button) is for wet terrain. I really could not tell any difference and removed the switch entirely, which locks the ECU in dry mode.
  12. Hi Graeme. Don't know if this helps you, but this is my 68 Dalesman with Puch forks.
  13. If you do indeed have both, then why not try them both, then report your findings back here?
  14. I’ve ridden a 200 with a JP pipe, the power felt fantastic to me, I don’t think you’ll be taking any extra dabs due to the power. 200 belongs to my good pal and he would not leave it on his bike if it was a detriment of any kind. I’d give it a go as is.
  15. I've found both 2t off-road and ag bikes very helpful.
  16. Hi all, just got a 200 rear kick with a JP stainless exhaust. I've noticed a few people are a bit critical of what they do to the low down power but not sure if they have a vested interest. Anyway I still have the stock pipe so no worries either way. What I'd like to ask is, if you have one what are your thoughts? Also I can mod mine if needs be so if you have felt the need to add baffles could you please send me some info of what you did and any gains. Cheers.
  17. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/?s=goneli&post_type=product
  18. Could anybody tell me what map 1 and map 2 are best suited for. I've ridden both modes on the same section and can't notice any difference. On my Beta 300 2t the map switching positions are very noticeable on how the bike performs. Also where have people repositioned this switch? I seem to constantly knock it into map 2. I think my lanyard is hitting it. I saw one mont where the map switch was neatly mounted on the radiator hose by the kickstart tip
  19. trevbul1


    I have a 2003 GG 250 TXT Edition and a 2021 TXT Racing side-by-side at the moment. I can tell you for sure that the 2003 bike is a good deal heavier but can't say by how much. Just take the rear wheels out; they are considerably different in weight on thir own. All I can say for sure is, being partially disabled, the new bike is a lot easier to ride for two hours, no question about it.
  20. The goneli fenders that fit the Bultacos of the early eighties are the same as the ones fitted to the Merlin / Cagiva twinshock models
  21. In here somewhere (at least for the 280) so 250 should be within a KG or two? Joe
  22. Last week
  23. Hi All, Long story short, I have a 2021 250 TXT Racing and a 2003 TXT 250 Edition so friends can come out to play now and then. Obviously the new bike is lighter and I understand the factory spec to be 64kg I have been unable to find any data on the Edition, which I understand was a discounted model using older engines before the launch of the new TXT range in 2003 Does anybody happen to know what it weighs, please? Happily, it is still competitive at entry level and starts first kick, which is more than can be said for the 2021 bike, unfortunately! Thanks and happy riding.
  24. hello, does any have a rear (or pair) mugduard for marlin / cagiva DG350 ? regards
  25. I don't think power is so much the problem for "average riders" on a 300. The problem is: 1. that near vertical torque curve off the bottom 2. the 6 or 8 kg of flywheel that just tractors on. People get into grief when the bike accelerates away and then even if they cut the throttle it just keeps going on the flywheel - whiskey throttle but compounded by the fact that even if you chop the throttle the power on the tyre remains. The only way to cut the power is with the clutch. The problem is really inadequate clutch control combined with the absolute tractor power of the 300's with their big flywheels. It's interesting that one of the typical "solutions" for people wanting to tame a 300 is to put on flywheel weights. I guess that slows down the acceleration so the bike feels "tamer", but the downside must be that if it gets away without pulling clutch then it's going to be like a bulldozer - nothing's going to stop it! If you compare a trials bike revving up to an enduro bike it's chalk and cheese - the trials bike takes several seconds to wind up and down (winding down from high revs takes ages - you usually drag clutch against brake to decelerate it quicker) because of the flywheel, while the enduros are way more on - off. That on-off characteristic means you can achieve much more effective control with throttle, that's just not an option on a 300 trials bike. I don't think most people coming into trials really recognise just how big a factor the heavy flywheel on a trials bike is. So many moves are made with no throttle at all, just flywheel inertia, therefore HP is often almost completely irrelevant in those moves, it just means it takes a little longer to spin the flywheel up to speed. Of course there are also times you need sustained engine power, no doubt. Look at the really good 125cc riders, it's incredible what they can send those things up with a fraction of the power of a 300, they just store power in the flywheel for when they need it. Flywheel energy goes up by the square of RPM, so a relatively light 125 flywheel can still store a heap of energy as they tend to rev a bit faster. My 2c
  26. On trials bikes they usually go between the coil and earth, because the TW has a battery you probably do indeed want to use the engine kill switch from the handlebar controls instead ... for that you probably want to look up a wiring diagram (or use a multimeter) and then splice the lanyard wires between the relevant wires near where the switch cluster plugs into the wiring harness, usually in the back of the headlight
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...