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  2. So I have a 1997 JTX 270 which runs and rides an absolute dream...or did... I was out on it Saturday riding with no issues. Rode it to a stop and (I believe) put it in neutral. After a quick break I go to start it again and attempt to click it in to gear....no click. Gear not engaged. Shifter returns to normal position. Tried shifting up, again no click, shifter returns to normal position. With bike off, I use my hand and push the shifter. It moves full travel with no clicking in to gear. Almost as if there are no gears. I have an event on in 6 days time so any help ASAP would be ideal! I'm under the impression it could be an issue with the top hat assy. Can I access thus through the clutch cover (I believe not) so assume it will require engine out case split. Better if I can do it in the frame. Any advice much appreciated! Cheers, Edward
  3. Hola sabe alguien cual es la marca en el volante magnetico para poner en punto muerto superior?
  4. Today
  5. But like my dad said: "At its worst, free advice is worth what you paid. Nothing!".
  6. Thank you very much d2w your advice is much appreciated
  7. Hmmm garydwall ... I took a better look at the picture you took of the bearing; is that "metal seal" only partially covering the inner/ball cage? If so perhaps your idea to remove the inboard (i.e. tranny output shaft side) rubber seal is a very good one as the original bearing design kinda implies that the bearing is to be lubricated by the tranny oil. Like I said, I'm not a professional mech, but I do enjoy learning.
  8. I agree to the enduro bike debate. I had a 300 sherco factory 2s and it was so pleasant and easy to ride (motor was total **** on an mx track, but perfect for offroad). Never once did I feel like it excessively wore me out or got me into trouble. However, I'm not educated on trials motors! Lol
  9. I’d say go 300 if it feels fine. Had lots of people say not to get a 300 enduro back when I was looking at 250 vs 300. Glad I got the 300. I got a 300 beta recently and the power doesn’t seem uncontrollable at all
  10. Hi, Inmotion have them in stock. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/petrol-tap/
  11. Hey garydhall. I found this video; thought it might help with your recent efforts. With full credit to Jim Snell: Regarding your question about using a bearing with a "rubber" sides vs metal sides, I wouldn't think it would be an issue. I don't believe the bearing environment would become so hot that the rubber might be compromised, or that heat transfer is an issue. I would not remove the covers however; perhaps the tranny oil would tend to "wash away" the bearing grease if the covers were not present. I don't know if the bearings expect to be lubricated by the tranny oil. So, in my opinion, I'd use the bearing as-is. Note, I'm only a do-it-yourself garage mechanic, so, as they say, "your mileage my vary".
  12. My petrol tap has failed and was wondering if these are diaphragm operated???? The flow of petrol to the carb just stopped. Tank is full of petrol........everything is clean...... Thanks Borderlord
  13. Cheerio, Bought a 2010 Beta 80 for little money, in a shabby condition. It's been restored with much TLC to it's former glory, including freshly painted frame, all new bearings, new clutch, new small end, chain set, replaced ton's of broken parts, and fresh plastic body parts all around. Last bits and pieces, and I'm finished, and my 10yo can finally make the transition from his Oset 20". BUT. Last evening I kept searching for the correct mounting point for the rectifier, but wasn't able to find one. Anybody that can point me in the right direction? Greatly appreciated! Yours truly, Vincent
  14. Hello , can someone please advise. Is it OK to replace the driveshaft bearing with a version with non metallic seals. Original bearing is a 6005zv. The version I bought is a skf 60052rsc3. The noticeable difference is the original has metal seals where my new one has rubber seals. Is it OK if I use this one and would it be a good idea to remove the rubber seal on the internal side to allow extra lubrication from the gearbox oil? Thanks in advance Gary
  15. I have the 48v motor out of my sons 2015 20 lite. But I cannot find a way of removing the drive side bearing. I can't get a puller on it due to restricted access. See photo. The bearing is totally shot, the back wheel of the bike can hardly turn. I figure replacing a £4 bearing has to beat a £360 motor! I look forward to any help you can give.
  16. I'm new here and have come seeking wisdom... Oh OK just some ideas on keeping my sons 2015 oset 20 lite going
  17. Yesterday
  18. thanks for your comments. My local club runs AMCA regs, so allows him to ride a 250, but I thnk faussy is right that he will be able to manage the 125 better, and it will help him get more confident. Suspect I need to spend some money.
  19. Mwl


    I'm thinking epure bike. I love my rev3, But, I'm thinking, no engine maintaining
  20. Mwl

    Beta rev3 125

    Fitted a fast throttle to my beta rev3,fab. It's so more responsive. Front wheel up when I want it.
  21. Mancmoz , just like look coats ,I have 200 , not assembles yet, I need sort out , heat , wrap , around pipe under tank, , , . Cheers ,
  22. Last week
  23. Not had it out yet but starts first kick and hits the revs. It had been restored by previous owner so is pretty much mint already bar a couple of bubbles on the tank which is away being sorted.
  24. Hi , does your cota 200 run , how is the overall performance ,, mancmoz
  25. Be aware that the TXR have a later Dell'Orto PHBH 26, of type SD which is a Mikuni clone and fitted with an air screw. The factory adjustment for the 240 and 276cc model are: main jet: 88, idle jet: 58, nozzle jet: BN 266, clip: 2nd from above, slide: 45°, air screw: 1/4 out, float: 8.3 gramm, needle: I have to look up, if of interest gas valve: 200
  26. I see it now. It was the old style clutch rod adjuster that was fooling me, I'd forgotten about those.
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