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  2. Hi all, new to the forum and hoping someone can help. Could anyone tell me where to locate a piston for my 221 frame number sherpa t 125. The piston measures 60mm and as far as I can tell from the lack of markings it's a standard size. The bore measures 60.986mm. I have looked at the usual sites, french classics, in motion etc but can not find a listing. Even good old flea bay had not come up with the goods. Any help greatly appreciated.
  3. Today
  4. HI , apologies for the long story! couple of issues i think maybe related. i have searched but cant find the answers to get to the root, 1996 jtx 270- (kukosan wiring)- few electrical issues that i was looking to try rectify! first off bike had no accessory ie horn light working- but noticed on idle when hot the fan would kick in and out as you would expect, checking the ac voltage supply (yellow from stator) i had 14.5 ac on idle but on full throttle i had 87 volts so firstly i replaced voltage regulator (L30031 oem ) with an ebay purchase , this seemed to steady output and i was able to get lights working all though flickering with revs as you would accept. i then brought bike for a run but noticed lights stopped working after a while of driving so i just thought a connection may have been loose when i put back together- but when i started up from cold following day lights came on again as before- but what i'm afraid of now is if my lights stop working then how well is the fan performing? if voltage is dropping in light circuit which is direct from stator via reg is it dropping for fan circuit also? as every now and again it might shoot coolant out in a spit as if boiling, hard to keep watching fan to check once im on the move. regulator gets very hot very fast when bike is running which brings me to blame this breaking down when hot and dumping voltage or my stator is overloading the voltage reg. can i update the whole system with a new modern full wave voltage regulator rectifier? what would i need to do? this way i could feed lights with dc voltage also and fan system would be fed 12volts dc as needed? anyone know the voltage ac that i should be getting from yellow wire from stator on idle and full throttle? should i replace stator only and check, as its an older bike parts are tough and slow to come by so an update would be a long term solution if anyone can point the right way. thanks!
  5. I think you’re in violent agreement. The torque (force applied) is the same but horsepower is work done which has that load component to it because the wheel is moving further for the same force. So the horsepower is also the same as it can result in multiple transfers of energy. Acceleration of the bike + wheel spin (throwing dirt backwards uses energy) + mechanical losses (clutch slippage being one component). I think that the only missing piece between you is where the horsepower is expressed, rear wheel vs crank. It’s a common mistake to apply static analysis to a dynamic system and that is what Billy is saying. Torque can be static but horsepower requires motion.
  6. i vaguely remember arguing something in the past, but cant even remember what side i was arguing. Wouldnt want to start contradicting myself 😄
  7. Good news you can grin even more now 👍👍
  8. Hard to find original photos of bikes but I think this is a brochure image https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=DFSCXK3V&id=17121FC2E5E56FE1EAC375D140EA034366BCB989&thid=OIP.DFSCXK3VKQxOJxlYAJrrUgHaFV&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fi.pinimg.com%2foriginals%2f14%2f29%2f03%2f1429036169b4bcc0dd4f3a13d851ec2d.jpg&exph=618&expw=859&q=ossa+mar+mk111&simid=608033348844717099&ck=B2B1FEAA6BFC0F7E5F6F287BC0A9BEA6&selectedIndex=48&ajaxhist=0 Same for the earlier black frame TR77 https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=eISR0cvI&id=1C56DABBBA78E8613247CA2DF3BAB85B625E79AB&thid=OIP.eISR0cvIYOpiTW6jnH5_UgHaFY&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fi.ebayimg.com%2fimages%2fi%2f381757276502-0-1%2fs-l1000.jpg&exph=727&expw=1000&q=ossa+mar+mk111&simid=608020408029351847&ck=6FF589A483D69BFE08B9A5F28BECC66A&selectedIndex=19&ajaxhist=0 The guards on this one appear similar to those on eBay or these from inmotion https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/universal-translucent-plastic-mudguards/ The last TR77 was the Verde (green) model which had green mudguards
  9. @faussy one for you 😃 (more resistant to movement in high gears)
  10. Thanks Woody, on my watch list now, cheers Mark
  11. I see what you're saying Billyt, but in a low gear at high revs, ie horsepower, no slippage! Therefore not sure your right. Still think it's torque! When you check a car clutch, high gears on a gradient at lowish revs, and plug in more revs to get the slip. It has nothing to do with high revs producing the horsepower, it's all about the torque generated. Think about auto clutches, they are just torque converters. The clutch uses the torque!
  12. anything will do, mix with fully synthetic.
  13. Yesterday
  14. When I try to message I get: rgvlc cannot receive messages.
  15. Hi I have a 2005 2.9 (272cc) Sherco Tremendous condition, basically just had a full rebuild (see attached when stripped down) Based in central
  16. Hi, thanks again everyone for your thoughts and comments. Just wanted to update this thread to help anyone in the future who might have similar issues. It was just the fan motor. Drew power from fuel pump which caused splutter. Increased tick over seemed to cure splutter but the fan was on its way out - and eventually packed in causing it to boil over. Partly my fault for not watching it closely enough- and being a massive child and concentrating on my grin while riding rather than checking the fan often. New fan= 80 quid or so, spot on 👍
  17. On ebay now https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ossa-MAR-and-TR77-reproduction-mudguards-in-opaque-polypropylene-as-original-fit/233641745938?hash=item3666221e12:g:1DMAAOSwpUlfAzqt
  18. Experts tend to like their clutch to hit immediate and hard like an on/off switch. First things first though. Pull the lever and the rubber dust cover off to make sure the piston in the master is actually returning to the snap ring. There is a spring above the piston that can be damaged if the lever takes a hard hit. Looking at the photo the adjustment screw should never have to be that far out so that looks funky but maybe those levers are not the correct ones for that bike. People that have measured the throw of the pressure plate report it to be around 1.27mm so there's not a lot to play with. Theoretically the hydraulic clutch is self adjusting as the slave piston only comes back as far as the pressure plate pushes it so its resting position is variable depending on wear and manufacturing tolerances. If the actuator assembly is put back together wrong it's possible the clutch will still seem to work but not work correctly. I think we've all lost the ball bearing that sits between the push rod and the actuator at one time. Replace it with a slightly different bearing and the clutch behaves a bit "odd". Along that line the Japanese video you're referring to uses shims to take up any slack in the actuator mechanism so that the clutch actuation takes place without any slack in the throw. This is to address the problem of clutch drag with the lever pulled in. Referring back to the 1.27mm of pressure plate throw, if you pull the lever at the handlebar all the way in and the piston in the slave cylinder moves 1.4mm over the entire lever travel that is a fixed amount. If the resting position of the clutch actuation mechanism has 0.5mm of slack in it you will only move the pressure plate 0.9mm which may cause some drag as the plates move past each other. If you use washers to take up the slack in the actuator mechanism so there is no slack then you get the full pressure plate movement of 1.4mm and less drag. These are numbers just for illustration, not actual measured values. Bear in mind that free throw at the lever is not necessarily the free throw of the actuation mechanism. The master cylinder must have dead space in its throw to allow the bleed hole in the reservoir to be uncovered. That part of the travel has no effect on the pressure plate as you noted. Since an expert had the bike I wonder if it could have an accessory slave cylinder. Might be worth asking if you can. One other thing I think worth noting is on my bikes I ditch the thicker plates on the ends of the clutch pack for two more of the 2.7mm plates. I just like the feel better being a duffer with no expert ambitions. Or intermediate ambitions for that matter.🙂 Having done the clutch fix on so many bikes I have a stack of various Beta clutch plates in the garage. Some of them given to me by people who thought they needed to replace their plates. In theory it's a really simple mechanism but in reality they can be very finicky if the bits aren't all in the right place. This is where I wish all you guys were local so I could see it in person.
  19. I would propose that a clutch slips at higher RPM due to horsepower not torque. Torque will flatten out at a certain RPM and horsepower will increase at higher RPM's. The RPM of the part of the clutch pack connected to rear wheel will start to change from the part of the clutch pack that is connected to the engine hence the slippage at higher RPM's Why? The back wheel will always lack behind the engine RPM wise as the engine is the driver and the back wheel is a follower vie the clutch pack.
  20. rileys

    TL 250 hose

    Lineaway I have had no luck at all trying find a hose. So as I said make the best of what we have gorilla super glue gel works wonders. And let the search carry on. Good luck with yours Greg
  21. As strange as it seems having the clutch slip a bit on the road in top gear is pretty much not an issue as it is not a road bike. Having a progressive engagement in a section is much more important. Having said that if it really bothers you changing the oil to ATF may help as ATF has friction enhancers. The other thing to try is to take fine emery cloth and dress the steel plates to break up the surface polish that happens to the steels after years of use.
  22. Time Left: 27 days and 1 hour

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    beta evo 125cc 2016 factory model nice clean bike many after market parts.Road registered.PM me for more info.£3300 ONO.

    3,300.00 GBP

  23. Time Left: 27 days and 1 hour

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    2017 with 2020 Graphic kit Recent Reiger shock service along with new linkage and swingarm bearing kits, fork and gear oil just changed. Fairly recent front tyre, chain and sprockets, Ready to ride.

    3,250.00 GBP

  24. Hi Guys sorry bit going off topic. i am interested to know what are those forks.? i once own DOT .. but they are different , what are model of those and where i can get them ? Regards
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