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konrad

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  1. Yellow wires are the wavy line. Black is negative. Red is positive.
  2. I did not realize Scorpa was making those in 1995. Can you post a picture of the engine? The 175cc 4T Scorpas I've seen in the USA were based on the Yamaha TT-R125. But the TT-R was not introduced (here at least) until about 2000. I've owned several TT-R125s over the years. They are excellent engines and easy to work on. The Chinese pitbike motors were patterned after Honda designs.
  3. Well, that makes you the perfect EFI OSSA owner. Congratulations on the rapid repair. Thanks for giving feedback.
  4. That was my first trials bike. I have attached Jim Snell's wiring diagram. Pretty sure I had to replace the thermo-switch at some point. Best way to test the fan is by connecting it to a 12-volt battery. The regulator (Transval) is probably a Zener diode clipper. Remember that any voltage you measure without its load (fan) will be somewhat higher than when it's loaded. The thing Snell calls the DC Converter is just a bridge rectifier. Here's a YouTube on how to test it.
  5. The somewhat flippant (but accurate) answer is: When the ECU tells it to. Removing the pump is a total PITA. I strongly suggest you test the pump with a 12-volt battery connected to the bike's diagnostic port. A 2014 Explorer will have the 6-pin diagnostic connector. See: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/pc-software/diy-diagnostic-interface Just connect a battery to the Batt+ and Batt- terminals shown. The pump should run for a few seconds each time the battery is connected. Eventually, you will want/need to build a complete diagnostic cable.
  6. The AAA-cell (Easy Start) won't run the fuel pump. You need 12 volts to do that. https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/chassis/fuel-pump Wiring diagrams are on the website as well.
  7. At a minimum, fork seals seem likely: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/fork-oil-seals-40x52x10mm-marzocchi-each.html
  8. Regarding the steep deprecation, Mecatecno has a "radically different sales philosophy" than Electric Motion. At least privately, Mecatecno is claiming that it will always be possible to update the electronics and every part and accessory. They feel this is key to their approach and a strong sales argument to share. I guess we will see what the future holds.
  9. I'm assuming it's a tapered roller bearing. The 32004 has a 42mm OD, a 20mm ID, and a 15mm width.
  10. Two different manufacturers. Seems unlikely to me. Post some photos of your Olle internals. What is the distance (completely unweighted) from the center of the axle to the top of the stanchion? Where would you buy Marzocchi internals anyway? A complete fork swap seems more doable. Or are you asking if the fender, caliper, and wheel will swap over? That is very likely to be a bolt-on operation..
  11. I've never done a GG, but the EFI OSSA gearbox is similar (designed by the same guy). It's a goofy (patented) mechanism for sure, 4 gear pairs provide 6 ratios. Here is a service manual for the 2018 bike, which will have a similar transmission setup. See page 48, everything is held in the right hand case-half. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xOzbrZQDO_W_AxpjvHU1xJMOqfRsVfPJ
  12. So 9,300 GBP equals 11,720 USD today according to OANDA's currency converter. I am stunned. I thought the 2023 Comp was like 12k GBP.
  13. Seeing as how EM buys a standard charger out of China, their logic is severely flawed. Oh, and just to be clear, I'm shocked that it could cost only $12k USD. I had been anticipating something like $16k (not saying I think it's worth that, however).
  14. When I follow that link from the US, it says, "$11,980.00 Tax included. Shipping calculated at checkout." Yes, dollars. I realize your price includes VAT, whereas mine would not. But that can't possibly be right.
  15. Just added a section to my website on identifying model years based on VIN and motor number. See it here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/factory-documentation/model-year-identification I would love to gather more examples, and possibly even create a registry of where bikes are roughly located. If you don't want to share your complete VIN, even the 10th character would be helpful. Likewise for the motor number, the two characters after the "I" would be helpful. I'm especially interested in finding examples from 2015. Feel free to contact me by PM.
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