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  1. As jonnyc says, could be as simple as the idle been too low.They won’t start or even attempt too if too low. I think it’s anti-clockwise to increase (someone will correct me if it’s clockwise)
  2. Make sure the throttle cable isn’t snagged anywhere and properly seated. Fuel pump wire under the tank connected? The little grey pipe that connects to the injector hasn’t come off? Can you get hold of another throttle body to try on your bike?
  3. I can’t remember how much the fan ran, but getting them to run right when they were working hard was a problem. Cutting the fan shroud definitely helped though
  4. When we ran the SY in the early 2000’s they did run very hot. We used to open up the side of the fan shroud (expose more of the fan blades) to help get more heat away from the radiator
  5. jrsunt

    4rt Silencer

    Does anyone have a spare 4rt silencer kicking around in the back of the garage? I’ve folded mine in half tonight and could really do with one for the British Championship round on Sunday!! Thanks
  6. They’ll all get further than the EM’s entered 🤣 I loved my TYZ, it was a great bike. Nothing handles like a TYZ in a stream. You’ll have loads of fun on that 👍
  7. jrsunt


    Riding it hard across the moors, for example in the Scott or the SSDT, you can empty the tank in about 45 minutes. General pottering around at a club trial will last all day
  8. Where were you draining the oil from? Both drain bolts are on the gear lever side and shouldn’t need the sump guard taking off. Even with a horribly bent sump guard there is usually room to manoeuvre to get the generator cover off for the oil filter. But yes they can be very spring loaded if they are bent and twisted and can require clamping before removing the bolts
  9. Genuine Honda for me all the way. They will last for years.
  10. Although I haven’t had the slave cylinder off a 315 for many years. I think that should be normal. There isn’t anything stopping the gearbox oil entering the push rod hole. It will help it all operate smoothly. If it works correctly, isn’t any sign of leakage and doesn’t use any oil then I would think it’s job done.
  11. The original Honda spacers and bushes are far better than the allballs cak. The spherical shock bearing has got to be the Honda one, it’s not cheap, but there is no comparison. (Don’t even consider the allballs one, there will be play) Top quality HK1512 roller bearings can be bought from local bearing traders at a decent price.
  12. Could the engine have been apart? If so, perhaps the timing could be a tooth out. Check for spanner marks on cylinder and head bolts, also a sealant would have been used on the head cover giving indications of engine work
  13. Leave it all closed apart from the reservoir cap. Those pesky bubbles should work their way to the highest point. When you come to have a go at it again, keep the system closed and use lots of tiny movements on the brake pedal to tease the bubbles out. (The vibrations should encourage them) You might lose pressure again but you’ll know that they’re on the move
  14. Leave the rear end up in the air over night if possible. It’s just air trapped in the system some where. Don’t be tempted to push the caliper pistons back in though or the good work will be undone
  15. That’s good news then 👍👍 The rest will come
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