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Everything posted by jrsunt

  1. If you're used to Trials bikes the gear lever is in the normal position, if you're coming from a road bike then the lever is a little further away. This is due to the fact that it's based on a Trials engine. If the lever was closer to the pegs on a Trials bike you'd end up knocking the lever with the front of your boots (shin plate) when on steep inclines or in technical situations when you need to redistribute your weight. S3 do a kit which brings the lever closer to the pegs. It's a very capeable bike and good fun. The low seat height and light weight make it very useful. The only downside may be the fuel range (about 90 miles) and not having electric start if that's what you're used to. Flat out it'll do 120km/h, that's in stock form with the restrictors still in. I did a video on one a couple of years back on the you tube thingy. Most trail riders would benefit from riding one of these instead of a generic 450 Enduro bike, much more user friendly and they are much easier to handle if you get in trouble out on the trails
  2. The CMNSL website is pretty good and reliable, I've used them a couple of times for various Honda parts. €308 for the Showa part is a pretty good price ?
  3. If it's not too late, make sure there's free play at the pedal before you strip it down. I'm pretty sure you can kink or nip the pipe running from the reservoir to the m/cylinder if it's not been put back together correctly. Make sure the rear wheel bearings are ok too as they can pull the wheel out of line if they are shot
  4. jrsunt

    250 4rt crank

    Unfortunately the 4r crank is a one off. I would suspect any wear there to give a "rumble" rather than a knock. How does the small end of the rod measure up in relation to the piston pin and piston? Check both ends of the pin where the piston sits and centre of the pin
  5. jrsunt

    4rt engine work

    My 2012 had done 4 ssdt's, 6 Scotts and was thrashed within an inch of it's life everywhere it went. I was going to put a piston and get the barrel done when I sold it, but when I stripped it down everything was perfect and measured to spec, so it went back together with new gaskets and rings only. I would guess that most of your internals will be ok, the only damage usually occurs from water. My 18 was drowned in the 2019 scott about 2 mins from the start. The bike knocked its tits off for the rest of the day. Upon stripping it down, the woodruff key had folded itself in half and stretched both ends of the con rod resulting in a knock that was noticeable throughout the rev range. If you split the crank, just make sure you measure and mark everything up. I made some plates up to help pressing everything back together so it couldn't be over pressed. The con rod is only available as a complete crank assembly, but the rod is a crf250 rod which are available everywhere. Just follow the manual and it's pretty straight forward, I don't think there is anything untoward. It's a little fiddly getting the cam chain and cam back on in the correct place but other wise ok.
  6. Bent selector shaft. Drain water and gear oil, clutch side off, clutch out, fit new shaft re assemble.
  7. jrsunt

    4rt engine work

    They're pretty good to split the engine, it's a Honda, everything fits where it's supposed too and working from the manual makes it a doddle. I've done a couple of new con rods after bikes have been drowned and they're fairly straight forward. (One was mine in the 2019 Scott)
  8. Don't get me wrong they're good fun, and as a addition to the garage they could be useful. But as a direct replacement to your petrol bikes they are a step backwards. Like all new bike models most have their problems, monts used to snap kickstart stops off the crankcase, other bikes gearboxs would explode for fun, others would destroy main bearings and others would stop sparking when they came across water.
  9. Hmmm, after plenty of time trying to make these things work, even from new, I disagree. It's not like listening to the engine to diagnose the problem, it's a case of swapping every electrical item there is on the bike until it works. I'd be putting my hard earned cash in something a little more proven. They're good for playing about on, but as a serious Trials bike they've got some catching up to do, even though they are priced at the top end of the Trials market. If you've got a spare 10k for one, other brands top of the line models offer superior equipment, performance and reliability. Don't be fooled as to what a salesperson tells you, especially when there's ££££ involved.
  10. For the same money I'd recommend petrol. Less problems easier to maintain and fix. The air forks in the 2020's were very light but also very poor compared to conventional forks. They are a good car park bike
  11. jrsunt

    Buying a 4rt

    Just the usual stuff really, Headstock bearings can start to feel notchy. The electrics are generally fine and the engine is virtually indestructible. Let it warm up properly then see if it starts easily. The silencer mounting bracket under the mudguard can get a bit messy if it's been dropped a lot.
  12. Your natural reaction as to when the front wheel pops up is to put your weight forward to save your a***, but in actual fact you need to dig your feet into the pegs, keep your weight rear biased and canter lever between your legs and arms whilst controlling it on the throttle, clutch and rear brake. If you get in the correct position over the rear end, lock and brace your legs and you can control the front elevation by using your arms. Practice going past the limit, by anticipating the point of no return and just step off the back holding the clutch and bars to control it
  13. Hopefully it will just be air in the system, but these things don't boil very often, even with the standard radiator. Again, why has it had the large radiator been fitted? Was the previous owner trying to cure a problem by fitting it?
  14. Why has it had the oversized radiator fitted? Perhaps a thermostat problem. If the fan/thermostat doesn't work correctly, the ECU will kill the bike to help protect the engine
  15. You can quite easily make a softer power by increasing the thickness of the cylinder base gaskets. There may also be a low compression cylinder head available for your model. Both should be relatively low cost and something you can do yourself if you're half mechanically minded. Give John Shirt motorcycles a call as they are the Gas Gas specialists, presuming you're in the uk
  16. The bike won't spark without the fuel pump connected into the loom.
  17. Have a feel of some front spokes on brand new bikes straight out of the box, particularly the Beta, they are quite loose compared to others, but it doesn't cause any issues.
  18. No such torque values, as each spoke tension will be slightly different on a used wheel. Are you rebuilding or just tweaking?
  19. The green one, next best to the Honda for build quality
  20. jrsunt

    Valve clearance

    It's an easy enough job with normal gauges. You'll find that the timing mark on the generator cover doesn't line up 100% with the mark on the flywheel. When they are aligned you will still have tension on the rocker arms.
  21. Put a spare plug and spanner in your back pack, could be as simple as the plug breaking down when it's up to working temperature.... Hopefully
  22. No, you'll need to take the full clutch cover off to get at the seals. What age is the bike? If it's done a lot then you're probably better off replacing the shaft too as they get badly scored from the seals
  23. The Mont doesn't, it picks up quicker than a well set up carb on a 2 stroke!!
  24. jrsunt

    4RT Kill Switch Wiring

    Yeah that's the multi plug. You can be quite rough with those rubber boots so don't worry. I'd probably next disconnect that plug and create a link between the 2 pins in the female end to again see if the bike stops. If not then the issue lies further in the loom.
  25. jrsunt

    4RT tilt switch

    The bank angle sensor only kicks in after about 10 seconds. It is only there to protect the engine from protential damage due to oil starvation. Don't rely on it. Fit either a kill switch or lanyard. Personally I link out the bank angle sensor and use the std kill switch
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