mil

Thanks for the responses Lemur. The bike has been running faultlessly and with no problems at all. I dropped the transmission oil last night (after noticing the low oil level I changed it and rode it 2-3 times with no problem). Transmission oil was at 0.47L (spec 0.54L) so a little low but may not have drained completely. Engine oil was bang on spec at 0.41L... As you suggest I think I will refill to spec, ride and then change again in a few rides and keep an eye on it. Thanks for the input. I've also phoned Fred and chatted it through with him - he said he'd be surprised if it was crank seal. He's a top bloke so if anything is needed to be done I'll be taking it to him!

I honestly didn't take enough notice as I dropped the oil into a pan - so it may well have been but not sure. When I dropped the transmission oil there was just a dribble which was worrying. But I haven't had any leak and from the searching I wonder if its the crank seal?

Thanks so much - that is really helpful and sounds like just the man to call. I really appreciate this Gary. Mil

Hi guys I have a 2015 Repsol 4RT that has been amazing to ride and I regularly change the engine oil/ transmission oil. On the last change there was barely any transmission oil at all! I have done some searching on the forum and this has been mentioned before - with the crank seal apparently the culprit? Has anyone experienced the same and did this change solve the problem? I'm looking to have this changed, and not experienced opening up the engine so would doubt its a job for me - can anyone recommend a good shop local to Birmingham/West Midlands who'd have experience with Montesas? (BVM?) I was quoted by a Montesa dealer in Yorkshire but don't want a long drive to drop it off/ collect again! Must be someone closer I'd hope. Thanks Mil

Thank you! I had to have a few bites at the cherry but this was the issue and lined the dots up, and stacked the plates in the pressure plate and put all in the basket (as per manual) and it runs well now finally!

Hi, A long frustrating evening in the workshop! I’ve just tried fitting dimpled steel clutch plates and although I worked pretty methodically through removal/ replacement with the manual the clutch lever now just doesn’t move at all and is locked out! having read some other comments on here I managed to remove bolts with rattle gun and not clutch holding tool. I checked the manual and realised it states to pull clutch lever in and keep it in as you remove the clutch cover (which I didn’t do). I bled clutch lever then removed cover again, and lever pulls normally. But when refitted it goes stiff again! Has anyone experienced this problem when changing a clutch on the 4rt? thanks Mil

@Cookiemonster did you successfully get this clutch change done? I have just bought dimpled plates but not tried fitting them yet and was looking forum for advice on this. Keen to hear how it went and if you noticed difference with the new plates. Cheers Mil

reggie - you've nailed it, the bleed nipple was stuck in there.. Thanks so much.

Hi, I've just bought a 2015 4RT and love it! Just getting used to the bike at the moment. The front brake has air in it so I tried to bleed it at the weekend but it seems as you loosen the banjo to bleed through the nipple, fluid seeps out over the caliper - as the same bolt holds the banjo for the brake line. Any tricks or tips for this as it didn't seem an efficient or effective way to do this! Thanks for any help Alan

Thanks for the experience and replies! Sure enough, removed all again last night and the rubber boot had slid up in to the air box. Retrieved the little bugger and all fitted up now good and proper. I was going to ask where to purchase the adapter in Uk - so thank you PeterT - I will get one of those sorted. Cheers for your help! Mil

Hi I took the air box/ subframe off my 2010 txt250 last night and was surprised how loose the fit was between the air box and the carb. The jubilee clip was tightened right up, but it slid right out- almost as if a spacer was not present to give a tight fit. Are these generally like this or shall I aim to improve this fit so it tightens right up? When replacing all and tightening up there is no issue with the carb coming away and the boot sits on fine,just not to a tight tolerance! Thanks for any advice Mil

I completely agree- really enjoyed today, a good layout of sections that also seemed to have the weather in mind. Stayed dry and was a good atmosphere. Thanks to all the guys who give their time to organise and those who volunteer to observe the sections- very grateful to them so I can enjoy an afternoon on my bike.

Interesting to hear comments on this. I have read about options to retard timing and fit slow action throttle as a way to change power delivery- would this be of benefit to the 290, or if I was to need to do this, would it be more a case of making the best of what I had as opposed to an ideal?

Hi I am returning to trials from motocross and looking at bike options. I used to ride a Beta 270 and although I enjoyed it I like the look of Shercos... From my understanding there was a revamp from 06model, and this age is about my price range, but have heard different reports on 250 vs 290 models. I have heard reports of very snappy 250's and mellow 290's, but a friend had a 290 and didn't get on with it. Am I right in saying 250 was changed in 06 and mellowed power? Any thoughts and advice on this? I am not a beginner but certainly no trials expert and want to have fun on it and enter some trials, so want usable power, but the 290's seem much more readily available... Thanks Mil

Hi Having ridden trials a few years ago, then moving into mx/Enduro, I am now looking at another trials bike for practicing and entering some events. I want it to be road reg'd and able to ride down the lane to a practice area near me as well as for events that require it. I have found a nice looking example of a 250 sherco, but the owner says it doesn't come with a V5. Initially alarm bells rang- but having looked through the forum posts, it looks like I can still register the bike etc. question is, is this worth the extra hassle without a V5- would you buy a bike without this document? Thanks for any advice. Mil