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  1. There’s a 2008 model on there own quoting all parts available
  2. If you search under Scorpa on a well known internet site there’s a lad on there whose always breaking Scorpas so worth a look
  3. Simply because some testers are ignorant to the process one local lad told me the bike has to have wing mirrors to pass walked away
  4. As the title says anyone know any trials bike friendly MoT garages in Greater Manchester? mines due next month thanks
  5. Thanks all for the advice, don’t have a rattle gun or torque spanner for the amount of torque required to nip the bolt back up so might just be as easy to get a bike shop to change them for me
  6. Thanks, I’ll let you know how I get on
  7. Hi all took the plunge & bought the apico dimpled clutch plates which I plan to fit next week sometime looking through the manual & at some previous topics & it looks as simple as remove the cover then the 6 bolts & springs remove existing plates oil up new plates & replace in correct order put bolts back in at 12 Nm cover on bleed if necessary I don’t need the clutch holding tool shown in the manual do I? Or is there a nut holding the clutch centre on? did this mod on a 315 about 15 years ago & don’t recall needing this tool, different bike obviously though & a long time ago! thanks in advance
  8. So did some digging on line about the lanyard issue & some advice suggested taking apart the part on the bars & giving the spring a stretch well it worked today around 5 times so maybe I’ve got lucky 😄
  9. Thanks lineaway & jonnyc21 traditional button kill switch is the way to go I think though I will have a look to see if there is anything obvious where I ride you see loads of people stalling their bikes to shut them down...... Will also check the idle as suggested, if I could only get that hour/tachometer to work....
  10. So managed to put around 6 hours on the bike (had to have my appendix out 🤒) and we’re getting along nicely one gripe I have though is the magnetic lanyard kill switch doesn’t work, I’m having to stall it to stop it tried a new lanyard with no improvement some information on TC about tracing the wires to the ECU to see if corroded and also to check a connection under the tank anyone else have any suggestions? Beginning to pi$$ me off also had one instance of not starting when hot Generally I ride for say 30 minutes then stop for a drink and a chat for 10 minutes then start again, no problem this one time I tried to start again after a minute or 2 without any luck despite doing the ECU reset drove home and 20 minutes later starts no problem... any thoughts? thanks
  11. As pauls320 Says check the clutch actuator arm, there is a mod you can do to give it more stroke, might be covered on here somewhere from memory you move the nut from the inside to the outside so that no thread is exposed also use motul 4t oil again from memory speak to Nigel Birkett
  12. Read the instructions? I’m a bloke!
  13. Thanks jonnyc21 I’ll re oil the air filter as suggested ELF oil gets delivered tomorrow so I’ll change that over the weekend & see how I get on fitted a wireless aprico hour/tachometer today at the bolt that holds down the fuel tank near handle bars when I switched from hours to RPM it maxed at ~ 500 RPM & not the ~ 1800 RPM I was expecting could this be due to the distance it is from the spark plug? cheers
  14. Thanks everyone ill change the oil first as suggested before taking the plunge on the plates regarding the air filter are you oiling it after cleaning it or just cleaning it & putting it back?
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