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thall1

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About thall1

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Beta Evo 4t

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  • Location
    South west

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  1. When I spoke to beta UK for 2013 & 2014 4t fork air gaps they suggested 60mm rh and 120 Lh. on the right fork did you gently pump the cartridge to expel all the air from inside it?... also I do the rh first and leave it with the cap off while I do the left.. that way the all the smaller air bubbles generated after pumping the cartridge have a chance to float out.
  2. on later bikes there is a rectifier up near the head stock ... i think it’s fan related but may also effect the spark?..may be different on earlier bikes if you have one...it’s the size of a car relay... they can breakdown... usually shown by the casing expanding from the inside out.
  3. thall1

    After Market Spares

    Don’t be fooled!... we’ve gone through three Bosi front mudguards !!
  4. thall1

    After Market Spares

    Seal kits are online but if you order from beta UK via their website it’s all post free and their prices aren’t inflated being a main importers .... doubt you’ll need new cylinders for the rear brake but may need calliper piston kit and/or master cylinder piston kit. as for the rear mudguard only a beta item will fit ...plenty of aftermarket front mudguard on line that’ll do the job if you need to replace that at any point.
  5. thall1

    Declutch issues

    Just put a new piston kit in... you’ve already changed lots as it’s been stood... you may as well change it out then you know you’ve got a good hydraulic system... if it still doesn’t work (doubtful!)..then you can look at the clutch pack
  6. thall1

    Declutch issues

    Assuming the free play in the lever is set up correctly then the master cylinder is most likely the issue... the slave will be just one or two O rings so shouldn’t be expensive. The master cylinder piston kit wouldn’t be too expensive £30 or so...if you want the clutch to work correctly then it’ll need to be changed... as it’s been stood for a while you may as well change the slave seals so then you have a ‘new’ clutch operating system...
  7. thall1

    Declutch issues

    it probably needs a new clutch master cylinder piston kit and changing the slave cylinder seals also would give peace of mind.
  8. Gas gas manuals and exploded diagrams are available via GasGas UK website ... they don’t list the type of bearing but do show the sizes of the bearing and seals... you may find it easier to order from GasGas UK unless you wait until you can strip the gearbox to determine the type of bearings and seals hope the link below works ... https://gasgas.com/index.php?mact=CGExtensions,cntnt01,getfile,0&cntnt01_d=QTQ3M0VDRzloemNNR2dMYTZzaC9yWHpncS9XZVUzLy9lbVhFWHFGT1Q0NkNsbDMzejJGMG9tRmloTzJzUXhYWDVPRG82WGVobzRHbjdMT3NiWUN6aUhjNC8wdUoySXlacnM3MGw5RUtza0VaaDJNWEJtdUd0MzVTZEpDbnJjbDdpeGVwK0tHeXJYakFodXl3WlE3RVZ6NzcweDFiSkU2YnlEbm9TS1RxU2ZjPTo6naNjHHXyLmvefD6g7EKrKA%3D%3D&cntnt01returnid=1&showtemplate=false
  9. thall1

    Beta Evo Running Hot

    I did have a beta 4t that run hot... fan came on as normal but stayed on ... not unusual for a 4t but it spat out its water after being sat for a while on idle ... it was ok if the bike was actually moving...turned out the fan was running relatively slowly, so wasn’t giving the desired cooling...you could try comparing yours to another similar bike if possible
  10. Usually I keep a few links that I’ve taken off a new chain in the past.. if you don’t have spare links you could just get a new split ink or two or half links to suit your current chain and add then in. if your changing both sprockets then it may be worth putting a new chain on anyway? Most trials shops will have split links and half links in stock and may have small sections of chain hanging around. you will need to establish what make chain you have as some ‘520’ chains have different pin dia depending on brand.. the brand should be stamped on the chain side plates. if you find you need a ‘half link’ then I think ‘Regina’ chains are the only ones that supply them to fit their make of chain
  11. One obvious thing .... I don’t suppose you’ve adjusted the idle too low?... you could just open up the idle screw on the throttle body.. large brass screw on the right hand side ... I thinks about 3 1/2 turns out should be about it but you could go a bit more to be sure.. idle needs to be 1800 rpm or it won’t start
  12. Sorry just re read and you’ve already removed the bank angle!
  13. To link out the bank angle disconnect the sensor and link the two outside wires on the loom plug to override the ecu
  14. Do you know someone with a similar bike to swop components over? This is probably the easiest way to trouble shoot without buying bits needlessly. check the basics first like the earth points... there is a yellow multi plug under the headstock with the earths in plus one on the coil. ecu multiplug is clean with no corrosion on the pins and all other electrical plugs are intact/clean ..same with the injector multiplug... there is a two pin black plug under the tank for the fuel pump, and a bunch under the seat next to the left hand side of the air box. you can try putting a 12v supply direct to the fuel pump... this will prove the pump is working if you disconnect the fuel line to show fuel out of the hose but it does pump at a good rate so beware also this will illuminate issues with the capacitor not having enough juice to power the pump and ecu.. you can try starting the bike with a 12v feed on the pump... if it does start I would suggest the capacitor is U/S or the wires from it are corroded not sure if the ecu checks for spark before fuel or the other way around?... someone will confirm. there is a regulator just in front of the rear spring... can’t remember now if this is ‘spark’ related but I’m sure someone will advise.
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