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thall1

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About thall1

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  • Bike
    Beta Evo 4t

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    South west

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  1. I’m assuming you didn’t need to prise open the stantion clamps on the yokes to slide the forks through both top and bottom yokes?... if you did then the head bearings aren’t set fully in the head stock
  2. It might be that sherco have machined the fork mounting bores mot parallel to the steering spindle to open up the steering angle a bit?
  3. I would suggest that the fork mounting bore on the top and bottom yokes has not been machined square and true to the outside profile?... if the outside profile had been machined square to the bored but not to the centre spindle hole then you wouldn’t have been able to slide the fork stantion through both the bottom and top yoke. It does look a bit strange though ?
  4. I just replaced a tyre for a friend... turned out it was tubed running on a centre flange spoke rim on a tubeless tyre... can only assume that at some point the old tubeless tyre had a puncture... he didn’t ever have any issues with ripping valves out
  5. open up the idle screw...4rt’s run at around 1800rpm... my son turn his down when he first bought it after being in a gas gas because he thought it was running too high...took a month to figure out what had gone wrong! You can run a separate 12v supply to the fuel pump... there’s a twin wire connection under the tank... this will reduce the voltage load on the electrics. If it starts ok with a separate 12v on the pump then you may want to consider a new capacitor and inspect the loom for corrosion on the earths... we had ‘black’ wire corrosion coming from the capacitor that had crept up the loom... this didn’t stop the bike starting- (that was due to a faulty Ecu) but it didn’t help!
  6. We had an IRC on a 2011 Gasgas rim that spun the tyre on the rim with a tube fitted ... but I think at the time there was an issue with IRC not sealing/gripping on the bead so this may have contributed to issue. I guess it’ll also depend on how aggressive you ride as well. we also had a Rev3 that popped the bead so we put insulation tape around the bead on the wheel to make the tyre grip more. wheel rim was corroded as yours so as much corrosion as possible was removed with an ‘air file’ and the rim painted on the inside after cleaning. I think we used enamel paint .
  7. That was my thought... although it seemed to better attended this time compared to last January but I could be wrong? if they do change venue then somewhere closer to Bristol would be nice... save a 3 1/2,hr car journey each way for me!
  8. During 25th anniversary event run on Dec28th, the commentary mentioned that the event may not be at Sheffield next year?.. anyone got any further info?..will it be run at another venue or not run at all?
  9. thall1

    Front brake system

    The front calliper pistons seals aren't immersed in fluid but it may be wise to change them... you can’t buy just the seals... it’s a new piston and seal set...the seals are ‘square’ in form but I have in the past used ‘O’ rings that work fine with new pads but as the pads wear the o rings don’t allow the pistons to creep out to take up wear in the pads.
  10. Are you sure it’s popped back out onto the bead?.. you’ll need to find where it’s leaking. Assuming you don’t have a puncture ...there’s only three places . .. the valve, bead or spokes .if it’s the bead then make sure it’s really clean and try to blow it back out again... WD40 or similar on the tyre will help it pop out. And if possible use a compressor with the inner part of the valve removed to get more air in quicker. If it doesn’t want to pop out at all then try putting a ratchet strap around the tyre to compress the tread and force the sidewall out onto the bead. if it’s from the spokes you’ll need to remove and clean the rim tape. I expect you’ll find corrosion under the tape. If you have got some corrosion then try and remove as much as possible with sand paper or a dremel and paint over with enamel or similar to protect it... good luck!
  11. Changing the master cylinder reservoir won’t make any difference to the clutch action ... I’m pretty sure they all use 11mm dia pistons and that’s the bit that’s does the work... as Linaway said... try ATF oil in the engine... you could also check the clutch pack thickness ... 9.75mm to 9.85mm I think and the finger height which I think is 17.5mm (I’m sure someone else can confirm the figures but it’s in the manuals) if the clutch pack is too thick you can reduce them using 320-400 grit wet and dry paper (dry) on a flat surface... it doesn’t take much to get it back within tolerance. Other than that, just make sure your getting full travel on the master cylinder with a very small amount of free play on the lever.
  12. thall1

    Beta 200 levers

    You could just drill the ‘old’lever holes out to suit the new bushes if there’s material left. Even if they are oval they should drill out ok provided they are clamped securely
  13. thall1

    Beta 200 levers

    You could just drill the holes on the lever to suit.?..
  14. You learn something new every day!... just assumed they were leather but I never checked TBH. .. apparently Alpinestsrs and others use the same ... dubbin seems to make the softer... certainly adds a shine and the water runs off and mud doesn’t stick as well so I guess it can’t do any harm
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