mil

Thanks for the responses Lemur. The bike has been running faultlessly and with no problems at all. I dropped the transmission oil last night (after noticing the low oil level I changed it and rode it 2-3 times with no problem). Transmission oil was at 0.47L (spec 0.54L) so a little low but may not have drained completely. Engine oil was bang on spec at 0.41L... As you suggest I think I will refill to spec, ride and then change again in a few rides and keep an eye on it. Thanks for the input. I've also phoned Fred and chatted it through with him - he said he'd be surprised if it was crank seal. He's a top bloke so if anything is needed to be done I'll be taking it to him!

I honestly didn't take enough notice as I dropped the oil into a pan - so it may well have been but not sure. When I dropped the transmission oil there was just a dribble which was worrying. But I haven't had any leak and from the searching I wonder if its the crank seal?

Thanks so much - that is really helpful and sounds like just the man to call. I really appreciate this Gary. Mil

Hi guys I have a 2015 Repsol 4RT that has been amazing to ride and I regularly change the engine oil/ transmission oil. On the last change there was barely any transmission oil at all! I have done some searching on the forum and this has been mentioned before - with the crank seal apparently the culprit? Has anyone experienced the same and did this change solve the problem? I'm looking to have this changed, and not experienced opening up the engine so would doubt its a job for me - can anyone recommend a good shop local to Birmingham/West Midlands who'd have experience with Montesas? (BVM?) I was quoted by a Montesa dealer in Yorkshire but don't want a long drive to drop it off/ collect again! Must be someone closer I'd hope. Thanks Mil

Thank you! I had to have a few bites at the cherry but this was the issue and lined the dots up, and stacked the plates in the pressure plate and put all in the basket (as per manual) and it runs well now finally!

Hi, A long frustrating evening in the workshop! I’ve just tried fitting dimpled steel clutch plates and although I worked pretty methodically through removal/ replacement with the manual the clutch lever now just doesn’t move at all and is locked out! having read some other comments on here I managed to remove bolts with rattle gun and not clutch holding tool. I checked the manual and realised it states to pull clutch lever in and keep it in as you remove the clutch cover (which I didn’t do). I bled clutch lever then removed cover again, and lever pulls normally. But when refitted it goes stiff again! Has anyone experienced this problem when changing a clutch on the 4rt? thanks Mil

@Cookiemonster did you successfully get this clutch change done? I have just bought dimpled plates but not tried fitting them yet and was looking forum for advice on this. Keen to hear how it went and if you noticed difference with the new plates. Cheers Mil

reggie - you've nailed it, the bleed nipple was stuck in there.. Thanks so much.

Hi, I've just bought a 2015 4RT and love it! Just getting used to the bike at the moment. The front brake has air in it so I tried to bleed it at the weekend but it seems as you loosen the banjo to bleed through the nipple, fluid seeps out over the caliper - as the same bolt holds the banjo for the brake line. Any tricks or tips for this as it didn't seem an efficient or effective way to do this! Thanks for any help Alan

Thanks for the experience and replies! Sure enough, removed all again last night and the rubber boot had slid up in to the air box. Retrieved the little bugger and all fitted up now good and proper. I was going to ask where to purchase the adapter in Uk - so thank you PeterT - I will get one of those sorted. Cheers for your help! Mil

Hi I took the air box/ subframe off my 2010 txt250 last night and was surprised how loose the fit was between the air box and the carb. The jubilee clip was tightened right up, but it slid right out- almost as if a spacer was not present to give a tight fit. Are these generally like this or shall I aim to improve this fit so it tightens right up? When replacing all and tightening up there is no issue with the carb coming away and the boot sits on fine,just not to a tight tolerance! Thanks for any advice Mil

I completely agree- really enjoyed today, a good layout of sections that also seemed to have the weather in mind. Stayed dry and was a good atmosphere. Thanks to all the guys who give their time to organise and those who volunteer to observe the sections- very grateful to them so I can enjoy an afternoon on my bike.

Interesting to hear comments on this. I have read about options to retard timing and fit slow action throttle as a way to change power delivery- would this be of benefit to the 290, or if I was to need to do this, would it be more a case of making the best of what I had as opposed to an ideal?

Hi I am returning to trials from motocross and looking at bike options. I used to ride a Beta 270 and although I enjoyed it I like the look of Shercos... From my understanding there was a revamp from 06model, and this age is about my price range, but have heard different reports on 250 vs 290 models. I have heard reports of very snappy 250's and mellow 290's, but a friend had a 290 and didn't get on with it. Am I right in saying 250 was changed in 06 and mellowed power? Any thoughts and advice on this? I am not a beginner but certainly no trials expert and want to have fun on it and enter some trials, so want usable power, but the 290's seem much more readily available... Thanks Mil

Hi Having ridden trials a few years ago, then moving into mx/Enduro, I am now looking at another trials bike for practicing and entering some events. I want it to be road reg'd and able to ride down the lane to a practice area near me as well as for events that require it. I have found a nice looking example of a 250 sherco, but the owner says it doesn't come with a V5. Initially alarm bells rang- but having looked through the forum posts, it looks like I can still register the bike etc. question is, is this worth the extra hassle without a V5- would you buy a bike without this document? Thanks for any advice. Mil

Kristian, I had a similar problem on my rev3- no back brake due to slight leak at banjo. Unfortunately you will need to buy the hose/ banjo assembly or have one made up for you. This is because the Banjo is crimped into the hose with a crimping tool and once on won't re-seal properly if cut off. I tried going to an automotive hydraulic specialist to have them supply and crimp on a banjo onto the original hose- but they didn;t have a small enough bore hose...However I had one custom made up at my local shop and it was

If it is a complete re-fill there could well be an air bubble in the system and this ruins any action. Tapping the reservoir and at clutch end with a spanner and also mid bleed lock off bleed nipple and pump the lever a few time. Then continue bleeding. This can often dislodge any trapped air and hey presto, a clutch that works... Back bleeding is also a good idea- undo the bleed nipple, remove reservoir cap and have something to catch fluid as it overflows the reservoir. You can then gradually just inject fluid and it pushes the air out. Good luck Mil

Hi Chris, Thanks for the reply. I wonder if this bush is perished and I'm sure the fork oil has not been changed before! It's interesting that in Mountain Bike circles the forks are very specialist, tuned by professionals and always tinkered with, but in Trials, where suspension is surely as important, there seems very little info on it and not as much attention paid to it... Mil

I've found that if you need to remove the grip for any reason, using glue or hairspray etc leaves the bars covered in gunk and the grips ruined. It is so easy to just pour in some petrol into the grip, swill it around and slide it on. The petrol evaporates and leaves the grip solid. No hassles, no residue. Then use some proper grip wire pliers to put the wire on- it twists the wire up and you don't have any erroneous strays to pierce your palm!

Hi, The forks on my Rev3 (04 model) seem far too soft. I'm no heavyweight (far from it- 11stone) and I can't find any decent info on adjusting spring rates, oil heights etc. I want to firm them up and slightly speed the rebound up. Has anyone got any experience stripping them down and can advise? Many thanks Alan p.s For the rear shock- is the allen key bolt at the top of the shock the rebound adjuster?

Hi Cadman, Cheers for the advise. I took it to a local hydraulic hose 'specialist' and asked them to make one up but they said they couldn't crimp that small! I'd been quoted

You must be talking about our 'Master of Champions' series on ABC? I think this post sums up the sense of humour the English have that is obivously not always picked up by those in the USA...! Classic.

Hi, My rear brake seems to be seeping from between the 'banjo' that attaches to the hose and caliper and the hose itself. I tried to remove the banjo from the hose to trim the hose back and re-fit, but can't get it off at all. Any ideas how to do this?? If this is not possible, or will screw up a compression washer or similar, is it possible to buy the whole rear hose/ fitting assemble? Any idea on price/ many thanks for your help Mil

Trials seems to be such a good starting point for any 2 wheeled sport. Jonny Starmer, British Schoolboy champion a little while back came riding with us on our Downhill Mountain Bikes, turned up for a national the next weekend, kicked all our arses and promptly won it! Lots of mountainbikers have ridden trials to start with: Rob Warner, Jason Bayliss, Mark Harries, Woody Hole...

Not if you know the right people mate So are you saying you know of cheap shops to get tyres from or just bragging you get cheap/ free tyres?