jrsunt

You can quite easily make a softer power by increasing the thickness of the cylinder base gaskets. There may also be a low compression cylinder head available for your model. Both should be relatively low cost and something you can do yourself if you're half mechanically minded. Give John Shirt motorcycles a call as they are the Gas Gas specialists, presuming you're in the uk

The bike won't spark without the fuel pump connected into the loom.

Have a feel of some front spokes on brand new bikes straight out of the box, particularly the Beta, they are quite loose compared to others, but it doesn't cause any issues.

No such torque values, as each spoke tension will be slightly different on a used wheel. Are you rebuilding or just tweaking?

The green one, next best to the Honda for build quality

It's an easy enough job with normal gauges. You'll find that the timing mark on the generator cover doesn't line up 100% with the mark on the flywheel. When they are aligned you will still have tension on the rocker arms.

Put a spare plug and spanner in your back pack, could be as simple as the plug breaking down when it's up to working temperature.... Hopefully

No, you'll need to take the full clutch cover off to get at the seals. What age is the bike? If it's done a lot then you're probably better off replacing the shaft too as they get badly scored from the seals

The Mont doesn't, it picks up quicker than a well set up carb on a 2 stroke!!

Yeah that's the multi plug. You can be quite rough with those rubber boots so don't worry. I'd probably next disconnect that plug and create a link between the 2 pins in the female end to again see if the bike stops. If not then the issue lies further in the loom.

Join the 2 wires together that come out from under the tank while the engine is running, that should stop the engine.

Firstly, start the bike with the wires unplugged and separated. When the bike is running, join the green and black together. The bike should stop. If it doesn't stop there could be a fault in the wiring. If it does stop then the fault is with the lanyard itself

The bank angle sensor only kicks in after about 10 seconds. It is only there to protect the engine from protential damage due to oil starvation. Don't rely on it. Fit either a kill switch or lanyard. Personally I link out the bank angle sensor and use the std kill switch

It's a Honda. Ride it, Pressure wash it, use detergent, no need to block any of the mudguard holes or worry about the electrics. The filter lid design is simple but highly effective at keeping the crap out. Clean air filter, lube the chain and it's good for the next ride. Oils and filter change every 4-6 weeks depending on the amount of abuse you give it. Enjoy

Back in the day, you could miss a section and be penalised 50, Miss 2 and you were out. Riders in the hunt for standard time would deliberately flout the rule to jump queues to gain a few valuable minutes. It wasn't until maybe the last 30-40 years or so that, the miss 1 section rule and you're out was introduced. Fair enough to me but I've (touch wood) not been in that situation. It would be a bitter pill to swallow whether you're going for the win or a finishers certificate. Jack will be back more determined than ever to get his name on the trophy

In the Scott it's so easy to miss a flag, a turn or a section. When your travelling at standard time kind of pace, a glance in the wrong direction looking for the next flag can mean you've missed a turn, which appears is what Jack has done. The section he has missed, he can't have been more than 5 meters away, but while hard on the power, clicking up through the gears, keeping the front end down and reading the ground, a lot of distance has passed in those few seconds and he's probably picked the flags up that were leaving the section to rejoin the course. It's happened to many riders over the years. Jack had it in the bag, and other than a momentary mistake it was a good year for him, that kind of pace and brilliant observation score will certainly have the others worried.

Glad all is ok. HT cool, Rectifier and fan relay.

460ml for the engine, 540ml in gearbox = 1 litre of 10w40 fully synthetic bike oil. Motul factory line is good. Clutch is crap and draggy until its properly warm, but eliminates the horrible judder and grabbyness that the thin stuff gives when it's really hot and upto temp. Depends how hard you ride it. Elf is probably better if your not abusing it too much

We did, (I hope his bike is still going)!! It turned out that the damage to the thermostat had spiked the electrical system and damaged one of the other electrical components, (can't remember which one) if you look at the wiring diagram, something is directly linked to the temperature switch. Probably fan relay, rectifier or the condenser. If I remember I'll have a look at work

Be realistic, it's not going to be much different, more of an evolution. Beta, gas gas, and sherco more or less use a gearbox that is nearly 20 years old, can't really recall many gearbox problems on a mont... That won't be getting changed. The crank and Conrad are pretty much CRF stuff, can't see them changing that either, perhaps the clutch could lose a little weight, but there isn't a chance Honda will compromise the build quality and risk loads of warranty issues... Not good for business!! I can't imagine them throwing a lot of titanium at it either, as that doesn't tend to last too well on trials bikes. If you want a bike that you know won't let you down buy a mont, if you can't ride a 4 stroke or find them heavy, buy something else.

I've had chance to ride the E Pure race today, and what a difference to the old bikes!! It can be ridden just like a conventional petrol bike. No need to change your riding style drastically. You almost forget you're on electric, I kept going for the gear lever!!! The clutch works perfectly, The build quality is there, the performance is there, let's see how they perform in the real world in back to back tests against the Repsol on the same sections. I'm pretty sure I can get it to do most stuff the Mont will do straight from the off. I must admit I hated the old bikes, and was very sceptical, but this is a giant step forward. I'll get to throw it at some gnarly stuff tomorrow and keep you posted with some footage hopefully

Nothing to do with piston or rings. Take it apart and clean it, the throttle body and air box manifold will be black with carbon, not to mention oil in the bottom of the air box if it's been upside down. No wonder it's smoky

I really really hope they don't get rid of anymore engine braking, it is what makes the 4rt a 4rt.

It's often caused by the exhaust gasses blowing around the pop rivers. It can just be from wear and tear but the main culprit is when the silencer takes a knock or 3 and the holes on the alloy sleeve get stretched and elongated. Drill out the rivets, clean up, reshape for a good fit if necessary, re seal with a heat proof silicon or exhaust paste and rivet back together. Its worth doing sooner rather than later as the rivets make a mess of the alloy if they are left vibrating about

Peen the rivets a little tighter which holds the drive gear to the basket