jrsunt

My 2012 had done 4 ssdt's, 6 Scotts and was thrashed within an inch of it's life everywhere it went. I was going to put a piston and get the barrel done when I sold it, but when I stripped it down everything was perfect and measured to spec, so it went back together with new gaskets and rings only. I would guess that most of your internals will be ok, the only damage usually occurs from water. My 18 was drowned in the 2019 scott about 2 mins from the start. The bike knocked its tits off for the rest of the day. Upon stripping it down, the woodruff key had folded itself in half and stretched both ends of the con rod resulting in a knock that was noticeable throughout the rev range. If you split the crank, just make sure you measure and mark everything up. I made some plates up to help pressing everything back together so it couldn't be over pressed. The con rod is only available as a complete crank assembly, but the rod is a crf250 rod which are available everywhere. Just follow the manual and it's pretty straight forward, I don't think there is anything untoward. It's a little fiddly getting the cam chain and cam back on in the correct place but other wise ok.

Bent selector shaft. Drain water and gear oil, clutch side off, clutch out, fit new shaft re assemble.

They're pretty good to split the engine, it's a Honda, everything fits where it's supposed too and working from the manual makes it a doddle. I've done a couple of new con rods after bikes have been drowned and they're fairly straight forward. (One was mine in the 2019 Scott)

Don't get me wrong they're good fun, and as a addition to the garage they could be useful. But as a direct replacement to your petrol bikes they are a step backwards. Like all new bike models most have their problems, monts used to snap kickstart stops off the crankcase, other bikes gearboxs would explode for fun, others would destroy main bearings and others would stop sparking when they came across water.

Hmmm, after plenty of time trying to make these things work, even from new, I disagree. It's not like listening to the engine to diagnose the problem, it's a case of swapping every electrical item there is on the bike until it works. I'd be putting my hard earned cash in something a little more proven. They're good for playing about on, but as a serious Trials bike they've got some catching up to do, even though they are priced at the top end of the Trials market. If you've got a spare 10k for one, other brands top of the line models offer superior equipment, performance and reliability. Don't be fooled as to what a salesperson tells you, especially when there's ££££ involved.

For the same money I'd recommend petrol. Less problems easier to maintain and fix. The air forks in the 2020's were very light but also very poor compared to conventional forks. They are a good car park bike

Just the usual stuff really, Headstock bearings can start to feel notchy. The electrics are generally fine and the engine is virtually indestructible. Let it warm up properly then see if it starts easily. The silencer mounting bracket under the mudguard can get a bit messy if it's been dropped a lot.

Your natural reaction as to when the front wheel pops up is to put your weight forward to save your a***, but in actual fact you need to dig your feet into the pegs, keep your weight rear biased and canter lever between your legs and arms whilst controlling it on the throttle, clutch and rear brake. If you get in the correct position over the rear end, lock and brace your legs and you can control the front elevation by using your arms. Practice going past the limit, by anticipating the point of no return and just step off the back holding the clutch and bars to control it

Hopefully it will just be air in the system, but these things don't boil very often, even with the standard radiator. Again, why has it had the large radiator been fitted? Was the previous owner trying to cure a problem by fitting it?

Why has it had the oversized radiator fitted? Perhaps a thermostat problem. If the fan/thermostat doesn't work correctly, the ECU will kill the bike to help protect the engine

You can quite easily make a softer power by increasing the thickness of the cylinder base gaskets. There may also be a low compression cylinder head available for your model. Both should be relatively low cost and something you can do yourself if you're half mechanically minded. Give John Shirt motorcycles a call as they are the Gas Gas specialists, presuming you're in the uk

The bike won't spark without the fuel pump connected into the loom.

Have a feel of some front spokes on brand new bikes straight out of the box, particularly the Beta, they are quite loose compared to others, but it doesn't cause any issues.

No such torque values, as each spoke tension will be slightly different on a used wheel. Are you rebuilding or just tweaking?

The green one, next best to the Honda for build quality

It's an easy enough job with normal gauges. You'll find that the timing mark on the generator cover doesn't line up 100% with the mark on the flywheel. When they are aligned you will still have tension on the rocker arms.

Put a spare plug and spanner in your back pack, could be as simple as the plug breaking down when it's up to working temperature.... Hopefully

No, you'll need to take the full clutch cover off to get at the seals. What age is the bike? If it's done a lot then you're probably better off replacing the shaft too as they get badly scored from the seals

The Mont doesn't, it picks up quicker than a well set up carb on a 2 stroke!!

Yeah that's the multi plug. You can be quite rough with those rubber boots so don't worry. I'd probably next disconnect that plug and create a link between the 2 pins in the female end to again see if the bike stops. If not then the issue lies further in the loom.

Join the 2 wires together that come out from under the tank while the engine is running, that should stop the engine.

Firstly, start the bike with the wires unplugged and separated. When the bike is running, join the green and black together. The bike should stop. If it doesn't stop there could be a fault in the wiring. If it does stop then the fault is with the lanyard itself

The bank angle sensor only kicks in after about 10 seconds. It is only there to protect the engine from protential damage due to oil starvation. Don't rely on it. Fit either a kill switch or lanyard. Personally I link out the bank angle sensor and use the std kill switch

It's a Honda. Ride it, Pressure wash it, use detergent, no need to block any of the mudguard holes or worry about the electrics. The filter lid design is simple but highly effective at keeping the crap out. Clean air filter, lube the chain and it's good for the next ride. Oils and filter change every 4-6 weeks depending on the amount of abuse you give it. Enjoy

Back in the day, you could miss a section and be penalised 50, Miss 2 and you were out. Riders in the hunt for standard time would deliberately flout the rule to jump queues to gain a few valuable minutes. It wasn't until maybe the last 30-40 years or so that, the miss 1 section rule and you're out was introduced. Fair enough to me but I've (touch wood) not been in that situation. It would be a bitter pill to swallow whether you're going for the win or a finishers certificate. Jack will be back more determined than ever to get his name on the trophy