gaz12349

Hi. Ive got my old 05 mont 4rt up for sale and im looking to buy my first gasgas. The one ive heard a few people mention as a really good bike is the 2012/2013 model. These are in my price range so its the one i'll probably go for. Could any of you tell me the differences in the bikes throughout the years starting from the early 2000s up. Or link me to an older post with information. Things like frame change, steering changes, suspension change, engine etc through the years. And also things to look for when buying besides the general maintenance parts like brakes, bearings, chain/sprockets etc. Thank you.

Thanks for the response. Regarding the clutch, would that be a case of worn clutch plates?

Hi. I've got my 05 4rt up for sale as looking to move to a GasGas (wish id bought one instead of the 4rt) ideally i'd like the 2013/2014 250 raga rep as I like the suspension upgrades. Anything I should look out for before buying? Any common faults etc. Also what model/year would you experienced gasgas owners/riders say is the best and why? Cheers.

Certainly noticed this. Thought it was just me.

How often? I usually do the mont every 25 hours. Book says every 15 but the oil is almost £30 a liter and find no difference running it that extra longer.

Thanks for the info. I've got a low hour 2013 250 pro lined up for sale once I sell my mont. It's been serviced by the right people and has had light use. I hate the clutch on the 05 4rt. Especially in streams. I find I have to slip the clutch because it feels like the bike wants to run away soon as I release pressure from the lever. That added on top of the hyper sensitive steering it makes riding the bike a handful. However blatting through the woods on trails it's awesome. But overall I find it much more difficult to ride than my old 2006 sherco 290 and I've always wanted a gasgas (never owned one) so it's time to try one.

I've got a 2005 montesa 4rt. I find the 05 mont hyper sensitive on the front, the clutch is like a switch, the engine breaking on this particular year is very harsh and the suspension isn't as plush as a lot of the 2ts feel which makes the bike feel heavy. I've tried to give the bike a chance but it's not for me. I'm looking at getting a 2013 250 txt pro once I've sold the mont. What are they like? Any particular things to look out for?

Thanks. Just had a look at some of the other posts regarding the timing chain tensioner. Certainly something I'm going to check. It would be nice to replace it with a manual one and cure the mild knock. I change the oils and filter every 15 hours. However using the ELF HTX 740 in the gearbox is getting expensive!

It seems to have a very very mild knock on idle. I can't locate where it is. Doesn't sound like the valve clearances however I don't adjust them as often as I should. Other than that the engine performs great. Plenty of power for me.

Have any 4rt owners done any internal engine work on the 4rt? Reason I ask, I've got a 2005 4rt (first batch off the production line frame number low 900s) and I have no history of any internal engine work done. In my ownership I've followed the book and replaced the oils and filter every 15 hours using the recommended oils. The book says the piston is to be changed every year however this could be the original piston for all I know. The bike runs great and pulls well. Is it worth the rather large expensive of rebuilding it? I'm not concerned about the labour as I'd carry out the work myself however the parts add up to quite a lot.

A loose valve would mince the engine....

Have a look at the coil pack. Had exact same problem with my 2005 4rt. Turned out to be the wires on the coil pack. I relocated the coil pack to under the fuel tank instead of the side of the frame. Just a thought. Odd for a bike that's less than a year old though...

I have that master cylinder on my bike (or very similar) and it's the only one I've not had to service and million times unlike the AJP. Shame They don't make a rear brake master cylinder that fits the 4rt as mine has recently decided to leak from every possible exit.

Check the nose weight on the car you're using. Most little cars are around 50kg so technically it's not legal but you'd have to get pulled by a police officer on a bad day for them to actually choose action I'd imagine. Just take in to consideration a trial bike on the rack and all the gear loaded in the back will increase the chance of understeer while driving. So just take your time when driving with a bike on the back in a little car. You should be fine though.

Do not take a hammer to the clutch plates....... Jeez. You can buy a new dimpled set for like £30. Mine has the dimpled clutch plates, the correct ELF HTX transmission oil and new seals In the AJP master cylinder. 315 master cylinder makes no difference. The bore/diamiter of the plunger is the same as the 4rt master cylinder so you are gaining nothing. No increase in pressure etc. I can always get it into neutral with ease while it's running. My clutch is quite switchy but I've just accepted I have to get use to it. Can't think of anything else to cure it. The engine breaking doesn't help matters either.