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  1. Try new plug Clean throttle body Check all connections etc Clean pump filter or see if you can swap a tank
  2. Probably because they don’t take that extortionate £12 off their riders to cover admin/development etc etc
  3. Have you an alloy stand as in 301 seems to sort it
  4. jimmyl


    I can do a small trial 10 sections 4 Laps on a tank but it’s a bit like asking how long is a piece of string as depends what type of riding you are doing ps it’s 24.6 inches for the string question 😂😂😂😩👍
  5. Tech have a good web site so maybe look on there as well
  6. jimmyl

    Older rear guards

    HI - No -at least not as a bolt straight on Tank height is different, spacer under the seat is different as is he little mudguard support at the back, If you changed te rubber and mudguard support you could maybe work around the tank? I looked when i had my 301 so I could use my old mudguards for precative and wanted quack swap back to new -maybe as a permanent mod might less involved
  7. Just my experience of 12 yrs 4rt riding and chatting with others bike always starts better after being stopped with kill button/ lanyard than a mechanical stall
  8. I would suggest it stops injecting fuel so engine stops clean if you stall potential for fully charged cylinder full of fuel this is the difference a carb and injected engine how’s the popcorn 😂😂👍
  9. Always best to stop with kill button as this stops engine in correct sequence
  10. Presume you let it warm up on tick over for a short while before opening throttle. Are you doing a lot of stop start riding. Do you stop it with the kill button -don't stall it to stop. Try staring it and just let it tick over for 10 mins - they often sort themselves out -I have had it on cold days when doing a few section close to each other at the start of a trial, -just leave it ticking over when you walk the section
  11. I think there are 4 options you go illegal and hope for the best you find a friendly land owner - give a them a cash donation every time you ride but accept there is probably no insurance cover get your local club to run an official practice sessions / closed to club / training event with correct ACU permit - that will involve organisation etc and by tied to specific dates and some rules to be followed (c of c/ coach etc etc )and May mean venues become over used find a commercial enterprise that will set up a piece of land and run it as a business all but option 1 will cost we are lucky down in wales to have all options but I cannot condone option 1
  12. The wheel would need machining to make it narrower or you could get a newer wheel The pre 2000 hub has a longer bearing boss but disc is in same place
  13. Worth buying a couple of air filters then always got a clean one Get a Flame proof after market one saves fiddling with original foam and metal cage. once oiled leave to dry on the bench as if you put into air box straight away will I’ve starting issues until any solvent evaporated 👍👍
  14. I would change oil first and see if it makes a difference before spending money. Don’t think the clutch will need bleeding as cover comes off without disconnecting hydraulics if I recall
  15. For the really muddy stuff I have tried to copy some of the good southern 4rt riders. Its almost 2/3 revs but constant - maybe 3rd gear - slip the clutch at a consistent point and control speed and grip with back brake - once you get momentum you can really sit into the bike and give it the beans. I can not confess to be an expert at this technique -out of maybe 5 goes 3 I rocket up the climb -1 is almost a total loop out and the 5th is a spinning mess!!. I don't ride that kind of mud too often so only practices it now and again - but watching some of the other 4rt riders who have it down to a art it works well. For normal type mud its essential to get get some revs on before the hazard and ride on the overrun - get some speed on then back off once moving and keep playing with riding on the over run.
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