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About totty79

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Beta evo 250

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  • Location
    North East England
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  1. Anyone quoting the Nuremberg Code in relation to Covid doesn't know what the Nuremberg Code is. Can we avoid this site becoming yet another repository of misinformation, there are plenty of other sources for it if that's your thing, we don't need it here.
  2. Until the what bike question is answered along with what oil then the answer is in the 25:1 to 200:1 range, or what it says in the manual, and that's before you add each riders perspective including those that insist on putting as much or as little in as they can get away with.
  3. I use a portable jet wash (pressure is more like a hose) at the practice ground where they're ok with it and use a barrier mat (like you get in shop/office doorways) on the van floor. Elsewhere I try to have a quick blast near the van to clear the tyres then scrape the mud off the underside of the rear mudguard and both sides of the bash plate, that gets rid of the majority of it.
  4. The float is the only thing that should be affected by angle, but you started with it. Any other cause will be something odd and unexpected, but it still has to be something that can raise the revs so; throttle, enrichment/choke, ignition advance, or an air leak.
  5. My money is on the throttle cable, zero play with adjusters wound right in is not normal, I can't think of any way in which being on an incline would pull the throttle though. I was part thinking of this when I asked about lifting the front as it rules out the rider pressing on the cable but it sounds like that isn't the cause anyway. 80:1 is the norm, 1.5% is the figure from the Beta manual for synthetic oils, 4% for mineral.
  6. What happens if you start it up in neutral and lift the front wheel? Just to confirm that the bike being inclined is the cause, because to be honest it's baffling. The oil choice and ratio isn't ideal, but it also isn't part of the problem, I just think you'll get spooge using a high ratio of oil that's meant for sustained high rev usage.
  7. You will probably be able to get other sizes of sprocket that aren't listed for the bike, I can't see the bolt spacing being unique, try somewhere like tallon. Before committing to gearing up though I'd suggest removing the radiator cover to aid cooling and then briefly screming it to get to 50mph+ on the road to experience just how bad the brakes and handling are, it might put you off.
  8. I think you'd be better off with a different type of bike. For sustained speed you'll need to look at engine cooling, you can get an uprated pump and remove the radiator cover when on the road. Brakes are also likely to overheat and at least fade. Tyres won't last very long at all. Suspension damping is all wrong and geometry is iffy. I used to ride on the road to a practice ground on an EVO and came across most of these problems when I tried to ride at normal road speeds. As it was on quiet roads I could avoid any problems by simply riding slower.
  9. You can't always just ride around, you'd need to check with the organisers. Just my opinion but if you can control the bike and it's the easy route on a beginner trial then it's worth considering just going for it. If it's the easy route on a normal trial (in which case "easy" shouldn't necessarily be taken literally) or you have any doubts about your bike control then go and spectate.
  10. totty79


    Very nice, and I can see why you'd want to keep it that way. Mine is just a Chinese copy and it's showing its age a bit, I'll strip it and rebuild it at some point but as it stands I'm not overly concerned about dropping it. I've changed a few bits since this pic and I'd need to change tyres and exhaust to do a LDT.
  11. totty79


    I hadn't considered doing an LDT until I saw a monkey bike on that list, quite tempted now.
  12. totty79

    wulf helmet

    Yes they're a bit pricey, but very light and well vented.
  13. totty79

    wulf helmet

    I used one for a couple of years, does the job fine, I only upgraded to an Airoh for better ventilation
  14. Firmly clamp the one that moves, pump it some more and see if the other one starts to work, if it does pump each one in turn 1/2 way out and push it back a few times to see if it settles down to working properly. If it's all the way in then it should be in square, if there was air in the system it'd be spongy, seal damage or dirt in the seal grove is a possible cause (assuming the piston is undamaged)
  15. Wheelie technique depends on what you're trying to achieve and what terrain you ride. As you're talking about loading the suspension I'd assume you're trying to place the front wheel in the right place on an obstacle e.g. as part of learning to do a double blip, on mud of other low grip surfaces. If this is what you're practising then the thing to practice is to use as little throttle as possible and to get part of the lift from the suspension using just a tiny blip of throttle to assist it, it takes quite a lot of physical effort. This skill is useful where it's so slippy that you cannot rely on rear traction alone to lift the front, you may have to weight the rear to get any traction at all and have to be gentle on the throttle. There should be no chance of the bike getting away from you and therefore no need to cover the rear brake, you shouldn't be going anywhere near the balance point never mind over it. For just getting used to having the front off the ground a small step/log/rock on an uphill slope with plenty of grip is an easy way to practice, being uphill makes the front easier to lift so it's easier to be smooth and just use the throttle, and if you wheelie the front over the step the rear hitting it will help bring it down if/when you overdo it. Rolling on more throttle is a different problem, you need your right wrist motion to be as independent from your body movement and momentum as possible, and as this is never perfect so you need to use the clutch to compensate. if you're effectively hanging off the bars then any surge forward will apply more throttle, your weight needs to be on the pegs. Rear brake position is adjustable on most bikes, but don't expect to be able to adjust it into the ideal position for riding around on the back wheel, they don't tend to have that much range of adjustment.
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