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  1. Isn't the UK spec the 300SS that timdog is asking about? The more lively ones everyone else gets doesn't have the SS in the name.
  2. I've only had a quick go on two of them, but it was back to back with my 250. I didn't think they were that different, daft little things like bar position and a sharper back brake stood out way more than the engine difference.
  3. You can get tools for it, but a range of sockets and either some threaded bar or a big vice/small press will do the job
  4. It could still be the swing arm or linkage bearings, without the shock fitted they aren't under any load which could affect any noise coming from them. Cleaning and greasing them is just routine maintenance anyway so nothing to lose from doing it.
  5. I haven't ridden a 2020 gas gas 300 but I've ridden 17, 19 and several earlier. They were all on the very lively/aggressive side of trials bikes, but I've tried two with a low comp head that had a really nice tourqey engine character so they can be tamed fairly cheaply if you feel the need. I have ridden two 300 Sherco one was around a 2020 and I really liked them. Felt like a gas gas chassis with nicer engine character. I ride a beta 250 so have no horse in this race. For what it's worth the 300 owners who I stayed in touch with both changed bikes to 260 montessas which I also didn't like highlighting a lot of this is personal preference. Reliability wise anecdotally it's Montesa, beta, gas gas, sherco but who knows if that's fair and they are all usable.
  6. Unless you're sticking with the TRS that you've tried then it's important to know that not all 300s are the same, for example there's a massive difference between a Beta and a GasGas. If you're buying used then serviceable condition matters more than 300 Vs 250.
  7. Adjust the lever out so the clutch bite is a little before the knuckles hit the lever. Set both levers in a fairly neutral position just slightly below level. If you go too low it affects the position of your whole body.
  8. Yes in the UK all normal unleaded is now e10 and 95 octane, super is e5 and 97 to 99. E5/10 is the maximum ethanol percentage in the fuel and it's how it has to be labelled at the pump, there's very little info available about the actual percentage in any particular fuel.
  9. The 250 is really low compression and isn't aggressive on the ignition timing, it doesn't need high octane fuel. (Maybe double check the compression ratio on the 2021 but it's had the lowest compression ratio of the range for many years) Assuming you're in the UK you may choose super unleaded for other reasons like it being e5 not e10 but it's not essential.
  10. The old argument is 2 stroke maintenance is more frequent and 4 stroke is more expensive, more wear vs more parts, but I'm not convinced that it applies that directly to trials. Neither motor is that advanced, packaging, weight and character are key for a trials motor, there's limited need to move beyond stone age. The Beta and Montesa are a very different bike to ride, better to decide on that basis. On that basis personally I'd suggest a Beta or Gas Gas or Sherco but that's just down to me liking how they ride, I've only had brief rides on a Montesa and I didn't take to it, but many riders love them. For what it's worth my regularly used 2012 Beta may be on it's original bore and piston, they haven't been changed in the 8 years I've owned it, and looking through the exhaust port it still looks good. It has probably worn out of tolerance and would no doubt be a bit sharper with a new piston, but I've ridden nearly new bikes and any difference is minimal.
  11. totty79

    CDccDI information

    Timing and advance may differ and would change engine character. I'm unsure if the wiring pin out changed over the years but I doubt it. On a high comp motor the wrong CDI could lead to detonation on a SS you'd probably get away with it.
  12. The hand written 50 for link to frame bolt should be 30, I've zoomed in and it's clearly a 3 not a 5, they aren't a strong bolt the heads can break off.
  13. Torque values attached. It says 2010 to 2014 but most figures will apply to all years, just be cautious about which parts have changed. The hand written numbers aren't changes, they're just because dirt made the printed ones hard to read.
  14. totty79

    Best Evo levers?

    I like the fold back type. It's common practice to leave the clamps slightly loose so when you drop it they move instead of snapping a lever. I prefer to have the clamps tight to keep the levers in a set position and you can do this with Flexi/folding levers.
  15. Beta UK are also really helpful, worth a try. If you haven't got a copy within a few days PM me and I'll take photos of my printed copy.
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