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totty79

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About totty79

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Beta evo 250

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  • Location
    North East England
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. You need a range of methods to deal with different terrain, getting adequate lift from mostly body action with the absolute minimal throttle is worth practising if you ride in slippery conditions.
  2. totty79

    Kick start

    There aren't that many options to be fair. A low compression head is the best way to lower the compression, but an extra base gasket is used by some. Newer Betas apparently have a grove in the cylinder to make starting easier you could probably have your cylinder machined to match. I don't know if the TRS electric start can be retrofitted or if you'd need to buy a new bike to get it.
  3. Check the tip of the idle adjuster and the area where it contacts the slide. I have the same adjuster and the tip wore and flaked quite a bit as well as wearing the slide and trapping flakes in the area, this caused the idle to change. After the initial wear it has been OK, I'd forgot about it until this post and I never got around to fitting a replacement. Other than that check all jets and adjustments against the manual, stock settings should be fine in the UK.
  4. I'd ride it briefly and change the oil while it's hot. Worth taking a look at the coolant.
  5. Yes it could be the shaft, the seal can wear a groove in it. You don't say if it's been used since the work, if its done this on first ride it might just be some residue, it takes a couple of changes to clear it.
  6. Ask for a 5 if you aren't comfortable with a section, pay attention on the route between sections as at some venues it can be harder than the sections themselves. Most riders will be supportive but as in all walks of life some d*ck might moan when you're stuck in a section.
  7. Personally if the bike was otherwise as described I'd try to reach agreement with the dealer whereby I'd do basic troubleshooting with the option of repairs or return based on what was found. It's a hassle, but so is returning it and buying something else and that comes with no guarantee of a better outcome. If the dealer wasn't supportive of this approach, I'd then go all out for returning it.
  8. I'd check the float height
  9. 300ss Beta and 300 Sherco have masses of torque without ripping your arms out of the sockets, quite linear. 125 Beta is more rev happy, well down on power compared to the 300's, ok low down torque, more lively but with less to give. Will easily do the job but from your description might not be what you're looking for. 250 Beta particularity the ones with a flywheel weight as standard is the middle ground. I haven't ridden the other 125s. Gas Gas 250 and 300 much more lively.
  10. My springs came from https://springcoil.co.uk/ The bike had excessive static sag, when you lifted the front there was a lot of suspension travel, when the spring was removed the cracks were hard to see until you flexed the spring then it was obvious. Foot peg spring is probably shared with many other bikes. I'm not sure what you mean about the rear shock, you may just need to reduce the preload as a heavy rider might have maxed it out, or it may have too strong a spring for your weight or the shock might have seized. I don't remember what shock those bikes have so I don't know if different spring rates are still available for them, but a winder like https://springcoil.co.uk/ could custom make one for you if needed.
  11. I've used a couple of Chinese copies on road bikes including a PWK 28, and they weren't all that bad but I never really got them running as well throughout the range as I did with a genuine, and on a trials bike this will be more noticeable. If you know the correct jets for a PWK 28 then for the sake of a tenner the copy might be worth a try. The current carb is much better quality though so if you're going to need to spend a lot of time on jetting then it may be a better starting point.
  12. Looks like a VM, I have a VM26 on another bike that looks identical to it. I can't remember if the pipe at the base that looks like it's plugged is an overflow/breather or a drain connected the the screw that's near it, either way it shouldn't need to be plugged and may indicate that the float height is set wrong. The string pull on the choke may also be a problem, it might not be closing fully. I'd see how it runs after sorting out those two things.
  13. There's a pdf out there somewhere that details 5 or 6 ways of configuring the factory clutch. The most progressive configuration has the top hat spaces turned to reduce the spring preload and the two thicker plates swapped out for thin ones. The oil can make a difference but brands seem to make as much difference as grades.
  14. Pull the spacer down at the top and you'll see that the top cap is screwed on and also held with a lock nut, there's a tool you can buy or make to hold the spring out of the way while you undo it.
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