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About totty79

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Beta evo 250

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  • Location
    North East England
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  1. I've used a couple of Chinese copies on road bikes including a PWK 28, and they weren't all that bad but I never really got them running as well throughout the range as I did with a genuine, and on a trials bike this will be more noticeable. If you know the correct jets for a PWK 28 then for the sake of a tenner the copy might be worth a try. The current carb is much better quality though so if you're going to need to spend a lot of time on jetting then it may be a better starting point.
  2. Looks like a VM, I have a VM26 on another bike that looks identical to it. I can't remember if the pipe at the base that looks like it's plugged is an overflow/breather or a drain connected the the screw that's near it, either way it shouldn't need to be plugged and may indicate that the float height is set wrong. The string pull on the choke may also be a problem, it might not be closing fully. I'd see how it runs after sorting out those two things.
  3. There's a pdf out there somewhere that details 5 or 6 ways of configuring the factory clutch. The most progressive configuration has the top hat spaces turned to reduce the spring preload and the two thicker plates swapped out for thin ones. The oil can make a difference but brands seem to make as much difference as grades.
  4. Pull the spacer down at the top and you'll see that the top cap is screwed on and also held with a lock nut, there's a tool you can buy or make to hold the spring out of the way while you undo it.
  5. totty79

    Brake fade

    Water in the fluid can also have this effect.
  6. Enjoy your new bike. Like many I started with a rough old bike that needed work and it was a PITA that's best avoided. I also forgot air filters, and the horrible but effective glue like filter oils.
  7. Most people buying new or nearly new bikes are never going to even see the piston or mains. Whereas before an engine rebuild is needed things like the rear linkage will have been stripped and greased a dozen times, several changes of hydraulic fluid, fork oil, wheel bearings and who knows how many brake pads etc. etc. We could even get picky about things like electric still having mains. It's probably fair to say that there is less to go wrong, but if someone doesn't have the facilities to maintain a petrol bike then I don't think an EM fixes that, they still have many of the parts that need routine maintenence.
  8. Nothing against the EM, I'd quite like one if they were cheaper, but I don't see why there would be a significant reduction in maintenance the only things it doesn't have are coolant and fuel systems both of which only tend to need work every couple of years. They still have linkage, headstock and wheel bearings, gearbox and fork oil etc.
  9. On the older bikes with the spoke sealing tape sealant is only needed when the rim is corroded, and using the wrong sealant is a very easy way to cause very rapid and serious corrosion in the first place. Every time someone recommends sealant I think back to some of the messed up wheels I've seen because if it.
  10. What brake parts have changed since 2014? I only know of the rear master cylinder in 2017 and only noticeable improvement is a better outer seal.
  11. Short answer; maybe slightly lower quality but not to the extent that makes any practical difference, and different work but probably break even on maintenance. I've never owned a 4RT but I've owned several Honda road bikes and worked on a few others and I've ran a 2012 Beta Evo for about 5 years. Honestly Beta is not Honda made in Japan quality, Honda's made elsewhere are often noticeably made to lower standards and the Beta is more or less in that ball park, perhaps less well designed in some aspects but that's a difficult comparison. Common Beta Evo niggles are weak mudguards and clutch drag, and the rear brake is far from the best on the market. Dropping out of 2nd is often reported, in my experience this was linked to the clutch dragging and has not occurred since shimming it correctly. Expect the clutch to need shimming to the lower end of the spec from new and maybe again every few years depending on how much you use it. I've needed to clean the carb twice, once after submerging it and once when the end of an aftermarket idle adjuster wore and into little flakes. Just keep the air filter appropriately oiled and keep the fuel clean and you shouldn't have to touch it. Bearings, fluids etc. related maintenance is probably no different to any other bike.
  12. More than half of the riders I see in the UK don't wear any obvious protection but the previous question could have just as easily related to choice of supplier. I'm not aware of any guards with good side protection, it's probably considered a lower risk area for most sports. The sock type guards are varied, there's no easy answer to the level of protection or heat. I have Jitise which have an insert with a hard shell and Bliss Protection Minimalist which harden on impact. The bliss protection ones are cooler, less noticeable, and have less of a tendency to be knocked out of the way by a side impact, I'm sure they offer less protection but I consider them adequate and now only wear these ones.
  13. Oil threads are notorious for everyone having a preference. 75ml in 5L of any trials specific 2 stroke oil (it doesn't need to be trials specific, but it's easier than getting into specs and doesn't cost any more) Gearbox oil, any bike specific gearbox oil, putoline light gear oil would be fine - they don't tend to have a draggy clutch so they don't need one of the more expensive oils. I'm not far away near Durham and had a 1999 321 about 6 years ago, it might even be my old bike. It was a nice bike, amazing on hills. Check the fork springs, mine were cracked and the used replacements I bought were also cracked so it may be a common problem, I had to get replacements made.
  14. Use a small mirror to check the seal groves in the caliper as you can't see it all directly. Any muck or corrosion in the grove will make the seals too tight.
  15. If you can't source any search for spring winders, most will make one offs to a specified rate. I think it cost me £35 last time and I had to post them an old spring so they could check the dimensions. Also check your current spring, the rate might not be the problem it might have compressed below spec or it might have cracked.
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