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Everything posted by totty79

  1. Firmly clamp the one that moves, pump it some more and see if the other one starts to work, if it does pump each one in turn 1/2 way out and push it back a few times to see if it settles down to working properly. If it's all the way in then it should be in square, if there was air in the system it'd be spongy, seal damage or dirt in the seal grove is a possible cause (assuming the piston is undamaged)
  2. Wheelie technique depends on what you're trying to achieve and what terrain you ride. As you're talking about loading the suspension I'd assume you're trying to place the front wheel in the right place on an obstacle e.g. as part of learning to do a double blip, on mud of other low grip surfaces. If this is what you're practising then the thing to practice is to use as little throttle as possible and to get part of the lift from the suspension using just a tiny blip of throttle to assist it, it takes quite a lot of physical effort. This skill is useful where it's so slippy that you cannot rely on rear traction alone to lift the front, you may have to weight the rear to get any traction at all and have to be gentle on the throttle. There should be no chance of the bike getting away from you and therefore no need to cover the rear brake, you shouldn't be going anywhere near the balance point never mind over it. For just getting used to having the front off the ground a small step/log/rock on an uphill slope with plenty of grip is an easy way to practice, being uphill makes the front easier to lift so it's easier to be smooth and just use the throttle, and if you wheelie the front over the step the rear hitting it will help bring it down if/when you overdo it. Rolling on more throttle is a different problem, you need your right wrist motion to be as independent from your body movement and momentum as possible, and as this is never perfect so you need to use the clutch to compensate. if you're effectively hanging off the bars then any surge forward will apply more throttle, your weight needs to be on the pegs. Rear brake position is adjustable on most bikes, but don't expect to be able to adjust it into the ideal position for riding around on the back wheel, they don't tend to have that much range of adjustment.
  3. In what way is it scrap? If the pistons aren't too pitted and the seals haven't perished or torn you might get away with a clean polish and rebuild without a repair kit. Sourcing seals and pistons by size is a pain but can be done, you can also have pistons machined.
  4. I see from your other thread that you've had a bad experience with a Gas Gas 300, I've ridden several of these and despite riding trials for a few years including other makes of 300 I've had one catch me out when I failed to think about how different a bike I was getting on compared to my 250 Evo. They aren't all the same though, by the time previous owners have messed with them most bikes can be anything from tame to arm ripping, the nicest engine character I've ridden also happened to be a detuned Gas Gas 300. Generally a 250 Beta Evo or Rev is not in the same ball park as a Gas Gas 300, they're calmer than a 250 Gas Gas. They have a very low compression ratio as standard and in most (all?) years also have a flywheel weight as standard.
  5. You need a range of methods to deal with different terrain, getting adequate lift from mostly body action with the absolute minimal throttle is worth practising if you ride in slippery conditions.
  6. totty79

    Kick start

    There aren't that many options to be fair. A low compression head is the best way to lower the compression, but an extra base gasket is used by some. Newer Betas apparently have a grove in the cylinder to make starting easier you could probably have your cylinder machined to match. I don't know if the TRS electric start can be retrofitted or if you'd need to buy a new bike to get it.
  7. Check the tip of the idle adjuster and the area where it contacts the slide. I have the same adjuster and the tip wore and flaked quite a bit as well as wearing the slide and trapping flakes in the area, this caused the idle to change. After the initial wear it has been OK, I'd forgot about it until this post and I never got around to fitting a replacement. Other than that check all jets and adjustments against the manual, stock settings should be fine in the UK.
  8. I'd ride it briefly and change the oil while it's hot. Worth taking a look at the coolant.
  9. Yes it could be the shaft, the seal can wear a groove in it. You don't say if it's been used since the work, if its done this on first ride it might just be some residue, it takes a couple of changes to clear it.
  10. Ask for a 5 if you aren't comfortable with a section, pay attention on the route between sections as at some venues it can be harder than the sections themselves. Most riders will be supportive but as in all walks of life some d*ck might moan when you're stuck in a section.
  11. Personally if the bike was otherwise as described I'd try to reach agreement with the dealer whereby I'd do basic troubleshooting with the option of repairs or return based on what was found. It's a hassle, but so is returning it and buying something else and that comes with no guarantee of a better outcome. If the dealer wasn't supportive of this approach, I'd then go all out for returning it.
  12. I'd check the float height
  13. 300ss Beta and 300 Sherco have masses of torque without ripping your arms out of the sockets, quite linear. 125 Beta is more rev happy, well down on power compared to the 300's, ok low down torque, more lively but with less to give. Will easily do the job but from your description might not be what you're looking for. 250 Beta particularity the ones with a flywheel weight as standard is the middle ground. I haven't ridden the other 125s. Gas Gas 250 and 300 much more lively.
  14. My springs came from https://springcoil.co.uk/ The bike had excessive static sag, when you lifted the front there was a lot of suspension travel, when the spring was removed the cracks were hard to see until you flexed the spring then it was obvious. Foot peg spring is probably shared with many other bikes. I'm not sure what you mean about the rear shock, you may just need to reduce the preload as a heavy rider might have maxed it out, or it may have too strong a spring for your weight or the shock might have seized. I don't remember what shock those bikes have so I don't know if different spring rates are still available for them, but a winder like https://springcoil.co.uk/ could custom make one for you if needed.
  15. I've used a couple of Chinese copies on road bikes including a PWK 28, and they weren't all that bad but I never really got them running as well throughout the range as I did with a genuine, and on a trials bike this will be more noticeable. If you know the correct jets for a PWK 28 then for the sake of a tenner the copy might be worth a try. The current carb is much better quality though so if you're going to need to spend a lot of time on jetting then it may be a better starting point.
  16. Looks like a VM, I have a VM26 on another bike that looks identical to it. I can't remember if the pipe at the base that looks like it's plugged is an overflow/breather or a drain connected the the screw that's near it, either way it shouldn't need to be plugged and may indicate that the float height is set wrong. The string pull on the choke may also be a problem, it might not be closing fully. I'd see how it runs after sorting out those two things.
  17. There's a pdf out there somewhere that details 5 or 6 ways of configuring the factory clutch. The most progressive configuration has the top hat spaces turned to reduce the spring preload and the two thicker plates swapped out for thin ones. The oil can make a difference but brands seem to make as much difference as grades.
  18. Pull the spacer down at the top and you'll see that the top cap is screwed on and also held with a lock nut, there's a tool you can buy or make to hold the spring out of the way while you undo it.
  19. totty79

    Brake fade

    Water in the fluid can also have this effect.
  20. Enjoy your new bike. Like many I started with a rough old bike that needed work and it was a PITA that's best avoided. I also forgot air filters, and the horrible but effective glue like filter oils.
  21. Most people buying new or nearly new bikes are never going to even see the piston or mains. Whereas before an engine rebuild is needed things like the rear linkage will have been stripped and greased a dozen times, several changes of hydraulic fluid, fork oil, wheel bearings and who knows how many brake pads etc. etc. We could even get picky about things like electric still having mains. It's probably fair to say that there is less to go wrong, but if someone doesn't have the facilities to maintain a petrol bike then I don't think an EM fixes that, they still have many of the parts that need routine maintenence.
  22. Nothing against the EM, I'd quite like one if they were cheaper, but I don't see why there would be a significant reduction in maintenance the only things it doesn't have are coolant and fuel systems both of which only tend to need work every couple of years. They still have linkage, headstock and wheel bearings, gearbox and fork oil etc.
  23. On the older bikes with the spoke sealing tape sealant is only needed when the rim is corroded, and using the wrong sealant is a very easy way to cause very rapid and serious corrosion in the first place. Every time someone recommends sealant I think back to some of the messed up wheels I've seen because if it.
  24. What brake parts have changed since 2014? I only know of the rear master cylinder in 2017 and only noticeable improvement is a better outer seal.
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