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totty79

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Everything posted by totty79
 
 
  1. WD40 leaves a residue of light oil (silicone oil maybe?) when the more volatile compounds evaporate off. It's debatable whether it's a good/adequate/suitable lubricant, everything in every oil topic is debatable, but it absolutely does provide some degree of lubrication even though the primary purpose is water dispersal.
  2. I only do your step one "After washing the bike I give the chain a spray of WD40 before putting it away." I tried a couple of different off road chain lubes and they all held dirt making a gooey grinding paste that was hard to clean and chain life was also really poor at just over a year, my current chain that's only had WD40 on it is 4 year old.
  3. Pop into Off Road Moto in Blyth and chat to the staff they'll help you out and will probably let you have a go on a couple of bikes.
  4. I've never owned a Sherco but I've ridden two 300s around that age. Handling was very Gas Gas, felt natural, Beta can turn tighter but tends to push the front and for some riders it can take more getting used to. Engine in between the two a little livelier than a UK Beta but predictable and no where near the instant max torque almost on/off switch feel that a Gas Gas 300 can have, still not ideal for a new starter but things would get out of hand less quickly or less often than they do on a Gas Gas 300. I'm a Beta 250 owner and I'd consider a 300 Sherco in future, or more likely a Scorpa as I prefer the colour scheme.
  5. Might as well try the Shell since you've got it. It's partly a matter of preference with how the clutch feels. If you get to much drag with the Shell then Putoline Nano Trans, Motul 300v and ATF all get recommended, I've tried all three and prefer to use Nano Trans in my 2012 250.
  6. We started at Surrender, got there before the first bikes but it was still crowded and hard to see much. From the hill top past it there was a good view of Roy's Rocks and of the section between the two. Grand Canyon was really good for spectators and so was bridge end although the parking there was a bit crazier.
  7. Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. I think we'll go for a drive today to get our bearings.
  8. Any tips on spectating at the Scott? Were staying in the area for the weekend, we've bought a programme so we have the map for spectator sections, parking instructions etc. I'm mainly interested to know if there are any must see areas, if it's workable to spectate at a section then drive to another or if its only really practical stay put, and also which sections are best avoided by those who aren't very agile on their feet.
  9. The post from intotrials describes the technique really well. I still get caught out and jerk a shoulder or jack knife occasionally especially when fatigued, it sometimes feels safer to brace arms and clatter through.
  10. Isn't the UK spec the 300SS that timdog is asking about? The more lively ones everyone else gets doesn't have the SS in the name.
  11. I've only had a quick go on two of them, but it was back to back with my 250. I didn't think they were that different, daft little things like bar position and a sharper back brake stood out way more than the engine difference.
  12. You can get tools for it, but a range of sockets and either some threaded bar or a big vice/small press will do the job
  13. It could still be the swing arm or linkage bearings, without the shock fitted they aren't under any load which could affect any noise coming from them. Cleaning and greasing them is just routine maintenance anyway so nothing to lose from doing it.
  14. I haven't ridden a 2020 gas gas 300 but I've ridden 17, 19 and several earlier. They were all on the very lively/aggressive side of trials bikes, but I've tried two with a low comp head that had a really nice tourqey engine character so they can be tamed fairly cheaply if you feel the need. I have ridden two 300 Sherco one was around a 2020 and I really liked them. Felt like a gas gas chassis with nicer engine character. I ride a beta 250 so have no horse in this race. For what it's worth the 300 owners who I stayed in touch with both changed bikes to 260 montessas which I also didn't like highlighting a lot of this is personal preference. Reliability wise anecdotally it's Montesa, beta, gas gas, sherco but who knows if that's fair and they are all usable.
  15. Unless you're sticking with the TRS that you've tried then it's important to know that not all 300s are the same, for example there's a massive difference between a Beta and a GasGas. If you're buying used then serviceable condition matters more than 300 Vs 250.
  16. Adjust the lever out so the clutch bite is a little before the knuckles hit the lever. Set both levers in a fairly neutral position just slightly below level. If you go too low it affects the position of your whole body.
  17. Yes in the UK all normal unleaded is now e10 and 95 octane, super is e5 and 97 to 99. E5/10 is the maximum ethanol percentage in the fuel and it's how it has to be labelled at the pump, there's very little info available about the actual percentage in any particular fuel.
  18. The 250 is really low compression and isn't aggressive on the ignition timing, it doesn't need high octane fuel. (Maybe double check the compression ratio on the 2021 but it's had the lowest compression ratio of the range for many years) Assuming you're in the UK you may choose super unleaded for other reasons like it being e5 not e10 but it's not essential.
  19. The old argument is 2 stroke maintenance is more frequent and 4 stroke is more expensive, more wear vs more parts, but I'm not convinced that it applies that directly to trials. Neither motor is that advanced, packaging, weight and character are key for a trials motor, there's limited need to move beyond stone age. The Beta and Montesa are a very different bike to ride, better to decide on that basis. On that basis personally I'd suggest a Beta or Gas Gas or Sherco but that's just down to me liking how they ride, I've only had brief rides on a Montesa and I didn't take to it, but many riders love them. For what it's worth my regularly used 2012 Beta may be on it's original bore and piston, they haven't been changed in the 8 years I've owned it, and looking through the exhaust port it still looks good. It has probably worn out of tolerance and would no doubt be a bit sharper with a new piston, but I've ridden nearly new bikes and any difference is minimal.
  20. totty79

    CDccDI information

    Timing and advance may differ and would change engine character. I'm unsure if the wiring pin out changed over the years but I doubt it. On a high comp motor the wrong CDI could lead to detonation on a SS you'd probably get away with it.
  21. The hand written 50 for link to frame bolt should be 30, I've zoomed in and it's clearly a 3 not a 5, they aren't a strong bolt the heads can break off.
  22. Torque values attached. It says 2010 to 2014 but most figures will apply to all years, just be cautious about which parts have changed. The hand written numbers aren't changes, they're just because dirt made the printed ones hard to read.
  23. I like the fold back type. It's common practice to leave the clamps slightly loose so when you drop it they move instead of snapping a lever. I prefer to have the clamps tight to keep the levers in a set position and you can do this with Flexi/folding levers.
  24. Beta UK are also really helpful, worth a try. If you haven't got a copy within a few days PM me and I'll take photos of my printed copy.
  25. There's a table of torque settings around 4 pages long, do you have that? I keep a copy of it rolled up with my torque wrench but I've just had a look and I can't find the pdf version or the link to where ever I downloaded it from - it is out there somewhere though. Caps just need to be wound fully in, they don't really need any torque they wont work loose.
 
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