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About smarty156

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    GasGas 2014 Racing

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  1. Thanks will check them out. If they're too van like then the wife won't drive and also defeats part of the reason for changing.
  2. Thanks. I have a Fiat Doblo at the moment which is great as it used to be just me with 1 bike (which fits in diagonally). However, it's not exactly great for long journies (noisy and uncomfortable as I have long legs and seat doesn't go back very far) and now my daughter has started riding. I can get one bike inside and one on a tow bar rack So the thinking is with a Peugeot Rifter Long, where the middle row seats fold flat into the floor (and rear seats are removable) I can get both bikes inside, which I'd prefer and if I can do that with 1 middle row seat still up my son can come too and I can put his mountain bike on the tow bar. It will also be more comfortable and have more space for family trips, especially as we have a dog coming too.
  3. Thanks. Is yours a standard or long version? If it's long, does the bike go straight in (front to back) and can you get 2 bikes in side by side without touching sides? I guess being the van version there's little or no insulation in the rear, which takes up a fair amount of space in the car version.
  4. Just wondering if anyone has tried to get a trials bike (or 2 preferably) in the new (2018 on) Peugeot Rifter Long or the Citroen (new Berlingo) or Vauxhall (Combo Life) 7 seat equivalent? I've got a Doblo at the moment but want something a bit more car like and modern that can be used as a family car, while also being longer. I had a quick measure in one yesterday and it should work (just - roof is lower than Doblo but 7 seat version can take a full size trials bike lengthways no problem (6th & 7th seats removable). Just looking for real world feedback before taking the plunge and realising my measuring is off! Thanks.
  5. So I've just been out to the garage and had a brain wave while looking at it. I'd put it back together the way it was when I took it apart (as per previous photo with the top yoke removed). However, what if that's not how it should have been? So, the plastic cover has a hole slightly larger than the spindle. What if the locking nut should be up the other way? So I tried it, the locking nut raised bit then sits inside the hole in the plastic cover and the top yoke sits on top of the flat part of the locking nut. Therefore when you screw the top nut in it can't hit the raised part of the locking nut and WILL screw down onto the top yoke! Problem solved! So yet again the previous owner completely messed things up and cut the top nut down to bodge it to fit. Anyone know the torque for the locking nut? Want to get it right. Here's a pic of how it should be. The locking nut being inside the top yoke centres it.
  6. Yes, your first sentence is correct. Yes it seems the only option is to shorten the top nut by around 2mm. Which I can get done and there's plenty of thread so that shouldn't be an issue. It's just that everything is brand new with correct parts so why doesn't it fit? If they are correct parts then every Gas Gas must have the same issue. As for the bearing race, that's all fine but even if it wasn't it would only affect the amount of thread available on the stem to screw the nut onto. The top nut would still hit the locking nut as the locking nut sits snug under the top yoke and the top yoke (which is genuine GasGas and new) is a certain thickness. There is nothing other than shortening the top nut or putting a washer under the top nut head (between head and top yoke) that can be changed. There's no washer shown on the parts diagram and very little space for one. Surely I'm missing something? Can anyone else with a roughly 2014 GasGas remove the top nut and measure how long it is and check if there's a washer under the head of the top nut for me please? There must be an explanation.
  7. The groove is for a small bolt to stop the top nut coming off if it comes loose. All parts are as per parts diagram and new parts replaced as per the parts removed.
  8. I've replaced the spindle as well as upper and lower fork yoke with new ones. The length of the spindle doesn't make a difference. The depth of the hole is governed by the thickness of the fork yoke.
  9. So the top yoke sits on top of this locking nut (the raised bit in the centre sits inside the hole in the yoke to help centre it). The top nut then goes into the stem and should tighten against the yoke and hold it tight to the locking nut. However, as the locking nut is too long it's coming up against the raised centre part of the locking nut before it tightens down onto the yoke. There's nothing you can adjust as the thickness of the yoke is what determines how far the nut can be threaded down. The attached pic is the old one before I removed it. Looking at the old top nut it looks like this was filed down to the right length too. All very weird.
  10. Surely this can't be right though?
  11. My father in law has a lathe so I can get him to do it for me but it still doesn't explain why the correct part number doesn't fit.
  12. Having fixed my fork yokes and replaced head bearings etc, I went to put everything back and have hit an issue. I ordered a new top nut as the previous owner had severely damaged the old one. However, despite being the correct GasGas part and having now ordered 2 from different places, the top nut is wrong. Basically it's about 2mm longer than the one that came out which means it hits the retaining nut before it tightens down onto the upper fork yoke. I've taken a photo side by side with old versus new so you can see. I've measured the space between the retaining nut and the top yoke and it's about 15mm so there's no way the new nut can work and there's nothing you can do to make it more. What gives? Suggestions?
  13. Cheers. I replaced the bearings because the fork yoke was cracked. I'm going to be doing them up carefully! What's the torque setting for the yoke bolts?
  14. So it seems you do need the washer still. In fact, there were 2 washers on there originally, despite the parts diagram only showing 1. I think it needs both. So, I'll hopefully have that sorted later and can put it all back together. Any tips for replacing everything (both yokes, forks etc). When I took it all apart I removed front wheel and forks first, then undid the top nut and removed yokes. I was thinking I'd need to put the bottom yoke on and do that up with the lock nut then put the top yoke on and do the top nut up gently, then put forks and front wheel in to get it lined up and finally do up the top nut. Sound ok?
  15. By the way, John Shirt Motorcycles (as they are no longer GasGas UK) are actually open. They are responding to emails and sending parts out. They just don't have enough people to man the phones.
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