smarty156

So, turns out the pilot jet was completely blocked! Problem solved.

Yes, got them from there and delivered already. Didn't solve my issues though!

Found a guide online and sounds like this "Death barble" is my issue. Seems like obtaining the o rings from anywhere in the UK is impossible though.

Ok. Will try that. Thanks.is there a guide online anywhere?

Ok so I still have this issue even though I've had the carb off and cleaned it out (it was perfectly clean though) and temperatures are back to normal (was around 18c today). Spark plug also looks ok and I've put a fresh air filter in. Again, screwing air screw right in helps a bit but if you leave it idling it starts to hunt and tries to die. If I give it a rev it then sits ok for a while. However, it also seems to be smokey, especially when cold. Any ideas what the issue could be? As I say, in the 6 years I've owned the bike the carburation has always been spot on and the carb is clean so it's not that. Was wondering if the fuel could be a problem but that's unlikely. Anything else that could cause this? Cheers

I've already cleaned the float bowl out and only use 99 RON fuel with zero ethanol. Carb hasn't been completely off and cleaned out though so might start with that and see how I get on. Will get a can of compressed air and make sure I blow everything through too. It's just odd as I've literally never touched the mixture screw or needles/jets and it's been spot on until the last 2 trials, both of which were circa 30c which is obviously a lot hotter than normal.

Prior to the 30c+ hot weather we've had recently my bike was running perfectly. Carburation was spot on. The last 2 trials have been in very hot weather and on tcikover the bike has started hunting a bit like it's running low on fuel. If I rev it then it's ok again for a few seconds then it starts picking and hunting again. The last trial I went to adjust the air mixture screw and found it was only half a turn out (I've not touched it in the 6 years I've had the bike, a 2014 300 Racing). Screwing it right the way in helped but not enough to completely eliminate the issue. What else can I do? Is there potentially a blockage somewhere? Do they do different air mixture screws? I don't particularly want to change needles or jets given that it runs great in 'normal' South East UK weather but if i have to switch to a hot weather setting then i will. Thanks.

Finished replacing the swing arm bushes and a new spindle. All greased up and no more creaking. The rivets for the chain guide were 5mm x 20mm with an extra large head, in case anyone else wants to know. Also, the parts diagram for my 2014 Racing showed a nylon washer that sits in the frame around the head of the swinging arm spindle. Mine didn't have one when I removed it so ordered a new one. When it arrived it didn't fit. Checked the parts diagram for a 2015 Racing and there's no longer a washer listed so I guess they amended the frame slightly to make the spindle a snug fit? Presume mine was a late 2014 and that was changed too. Odd.

While I have the swing arm out I thought I'd replace the chain guide (the one at the front that the swing arm axle goes through). Is that held in place by rivets? Does anyone know what size?

Yep, spotted that thanks. Bearing kit I've ordered comes with a new shaft so should be good.

Cool. Will give that a go. Have managed to loosen the nut and have ordered a new bush kit.

It's not the airbox as it was doing it even with that removed. So I checked the linkage bearings and re-greased everything just to be sure. Couldn't get the swinging arm bolt undone so will spray and leave with penetrating spray for a while and try again (once I get some). Put everything back having checked chain tensioner and anything else I could and there's still a creaking. I'm now 99% sure it's the swinging arm bearings as there's also very slight movement if I move it side to side. Doesn't make any noise when not connected to the shock but does under load. I have a feeling getting the swinging arm off is going to be a mission but it needs to be done. Fingers crossed once the nut frees up the rest will be simple. Are there any tools that I can get to help with bearing replacement?

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to remove th3 swinging arm and grease it up anyway, as well as the linkage. Maybe that will fix it. Will check chain tensioner too.

So my 2014 GasGas has developed a very annoying creaking noise which is very difficult to locate precisely. Even the slightest movement pushing down on the footrest makes it creak. It's definitely not a squeak and sounds more like dry plastic rubbing than anything else I've taken the rear shock out and the swinging arm moves up and down smoothly with no noise. Similarly the dog bones move freely with no noise. Thinking it could be the shock itself I've removed the spring but the piston shaft moves freely (with a firm push) with no noise (also had it refurbished about 2 years ago with little use since). What on earth could it be? Open to trying anything as its very loud and annoying. Thanks

For anyone that may be interested I fitted the adjustable ring and moved it to position 2. Clutch slip has completely gone and clutch is as light as it was originally.

I bought a 20 reg Citroen Berlingo XL in the end (the long wheel base version). Just about high enough inside to get the handle bars in (2014 300 GasGas). Have to put it in backwards as the middle row seats still have a slight lip on them when folded down so not completely flat. Straps around bars to rear anchor points on the floor. Not had 2 bikes in it I'm afraid. I think you'd get one forward and one back but not sure where you'd tie down the one facing forward. The van version you definitely would as it's wider in the rear due to not having all the plastic covers on the sides. Great car though. Quiet, comfortable, built in Sat nav with live traffic etc.

Quick question re the Xiu-RDI adjustable clutch ring. I have one for my 2014 TXT Pro Racing which I've not yet fitted (just has the original standard non-adjustable one) but it does have Xiu-RDI kevlar clutch plates. The clutch has been working great (light lever, good control, never need to adjust the bite point etc) but I've now noticed it's slipping when in 5th or 6th (possibly in lower gears but not so easy to tell). Presumably this is due to the plates wearing and the clutch pack now being too thin. On the description of the Xiu-RDI adjustable clutch it says position 1 is the same as standard (for new clutch plates). As the plates wear you can then move to position 2 then position 3. This is the quote: "Recommended use: A.-With new pads you can start with position num.1 or 2, depending your preferences. B.-After some working time, pads will be adapted and will be thinner. Then you can choose a higher number, until position num.3." Now, I can understand that if the clutch pack is too thin then the pressure exerted on it by the belville spring will be less and it will start slipping. Presumably (I need to take it apart still) the finger height will now also be too high. What I don't understand is how the position 2 or 3 will impact finger height, if at all. I get that it will exert more force onto the spring, hopefully bringing it back to the same force as when new but won't the finger height still be too high? and if so will that still cause clutch slip issues? Or does it not matter in this case? What I don't want to do is go to position 2 then find at the next trial (this Sunday) that it's still the same. Cheers.

Thanks will check them out. If they're too van like then the wife won't drive and also defeats part of the reason for changing.

Thanks. I have a Fiat Doblo at the moment which is great as it used to be just me with 1 bike (which fits in diagonally). However, it's not exactly great for long journies (noisy and uncomfortable as I have long legs and seat doesn't go back very far) and now my daughter has started riding. I can get one bike inside and one on a tow bar rack So the thinking is with a Peugeot Rifter Long, where the middle row seats fold flat into the floor (and rear seats are removable) I can get both bikes inside, which I'd prefer and if I can do that with 1 middle row seat still up my son can come too and I can put his mountain bike on the tow bar. It will also be more comfortable and have more space for family trips, especially as we have a dog coming too.

Thanks. Is yours a standard or long version? If it's long, does the bike go straight in (front to back) and can you get 2 bikes in side by side without touching sides? I guess being the van version there's little or no insulation in the rear, which takes up a fair amount of space in the car version.

Just wondering if anyone has tried to get a trials bike (or 2 preferably) in the new (2018 on) Peugeot Rifter Long or the Citroen (new Berlingo) or Vauxhall (Combo Life) 7 seat equivalent? I've got a Doblo at the moment but want something a bit more car like and modern that can be used as a family car, while also being longer. I had a quick measure in one yesterday and it should work (just - roof is lower than Doblo but 7 seat version can take a full size trials bike lengthways no problem (6th & 7th seats removable). Just looking for real world feedback before taking the plunge and realising my measuring is off! Thanks.

So I've just been out to the garage and had a brain wave while looking at it. I'd put it back together the way it was when I took it apart (as per previous photo with the top yoke removed). However, what if that's not how it should have been? So, the plastic cover has a hole slightly larger than the spindle. What if the locking nut should be up the other way? So I tried it, the locking nut raised bit then sits inside the hole in the plastic cover and the top yoke sits on top of the flat part of the locking nut. Therefore when you screw the top nut in it can't hit the raised part of the locking nut and WILL screw down onto the top yoke! Problem solved! So yet again the previous owner completely messed things up and cut the top nut down to bodge it to fit. Anyone know the torque for the locking nut? Want to get it right. Here's a pic of how it should be. The locking nut being inside the top yoke centres it.

Yes, your first sentence is correct. Yes it seems the only option is to shorten the top nut by around 2mm. Which I can get done and there's plenty of thread so that shouldn't be an issue. It's just that everything is brand new with correct parts so why doesn't it fit? If they are correct parts then every Gas Gas must have the same issue. As for the bearing race, that's all fine but even if it wasn't it would only affect the amount of thread available on the stem to screw the nut onto. The top nut would still hit the locking nut as the locking nut sits snug under the top yoke and the top yoke (which is genuine GasGas and new) is a certain thickness. There is nothing other than shortening the top nut or putting a washer under the top nut head (between head and top yoke) that can be changed. There's no washer shown on the parts diagram and very little space for one. Surely I'm missing something? Can anyone else with a roughly 2014 GasGas remove the top nut and measure how long it is and check if there's a washer under the head of the top nut for me please? There must be an explanation.

The groove is for a small bolt to stop the top nut coming off if it comes loose. All parts are as per parts diagram and new parts replaced as per the parts removed.

I've replaced the spindle as well as upper and lower fork yoke with new ones. The length of the spindle doesn't make a difference. The depth of the hole is governed by the thickness of the fork yoke.