trapezeartist

I don't understand how that works. As I read it, the potentiometer replaces the PRB and plugs into the PRB/FRB connector on the main loom. So it's the equivalent of pulling on a little bit of PRB all the time. But whenever the PRB is applied, the throttle is disabled. That was why I was trying wire something through the micro-switch in the throttle.

I raised this as one of my points on this other thread but it was too many questions at once, and most of it has fallen by the wayside now anyway. So I thought I would address this one question again. My aim is to achieve a little bit of engine braking with the throttle closed, similar to a petrol bike. The Mecatecno I tried had this. Having studied the information on konrad's website, I'm proposing to use the microswitch in the Domino throttle to feed about 1 volt into the PRB connector. I'll use the PRB/FRB Y-piece to actually make the connection at that end, meaning of course that the FRB won't work, but that doesn't matter. To get the 1 volt, I'm hoping to pick up 5 volts from the feed to the throttle (or maybe the lighting DC/DC converter) and use a converter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DK6WN63/ref=pe_4074371_1338459331_em_1p_1_lm. Does that make sense, konrad? If that's all OK, my only issue now is to understand the wiring colours. According to konrad's website, the main wires from the throttle are blue, white and black but I've got a connector marked T1 going into the throttle connector that has red, black and blue. The standard (non-EM) version of the throttle has blue, white and black, and the micro-switch wires are both green. However I've got a connector marked T2 that has white, brown and yellow. If I ever manage to sort out the conundrum above, I also intend to add an on/off switch on the handlebars to switch the engine braking on and off. Any thoughts?

The jerkiness on the clutch dates back to when I had petrol bikes. I've never used the clutch on my EM. Given the complexity of access to the clutch, I think I'll just go for some extended practice before diving into the alignment. Those Ergo levers look very interesting. I currently use Apico short levers but could certainly live with something shorter. I might give them a go for both clutch and brake.

EM Connect can be retrofitted to a 2023, but without the new display. However it is pretty uneconomic: £500 plus sending the bike back to Inch Perfect which is at the other end of the country. So that option is out. I can only find one OPTION connector, which is being used for TKO. Inch Perfect confirmed that. My understanding of electrickery stops at Ohm's Law. I did read up on voltage dividers and it pretty much puddled my brain when it came to devising a practical application. If I tried to do this I think it would probably go horribly wrong. It would also need a A/B handlebar switch to swap between normal maps and soft maps but I can't find such a thing. They are all on/off or horn-type buttons. Meanwhile your Regen Experiments page (https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments) has given me an idea for getting a bit of throttle-off engine braking. I'm going to be offline for a few days but will return to the subject and may try to consult you again on that.

Unfortunately the '24 command switch wouldn't work on my bike. It connects into the display, not straight into the controller, and presumably the display does something with the signal before sending the necessary to the controller. I think I'm back to learning how to slip the clutch smoothly.

That would be just the job, if it will work with a '23. I think there is a good chance as '23 and '24 are broadly the same bike. I'll give Symon a call today. Thanks.

I have now been riding an EM for 4 years but there are still things I think could be done better, and I'm wondering if they are possible. I would like to have a little bit of "engine braking" when the throttle is closed. I quite like the idea of the "Finger Throttle" on this page, https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/regen-experiments. If I understand correctly, this would be a straight bolt-on if I could get the right finger throttle. It could replace the present PRB-R (2023 bike) and the 0.8 volt would provide the engine braking. Right? I only ever use green and blue maps so I would like to get rid of the red map so that the sequence would be white-green-blue-green-blue-etc. I assume that is not possible as that stuff is presumably locked into the controller. My aim is to easily switch maps part way through a section. I've done it once or twice going from green to blue but I don't like the idea of going the other way as it would require two pushes of the button. There seems to be a danger of a hurried push-push becoming just one push and that might present a little surprise when going back on the throttle. The purpose is to get the punch of the blue map for climbs and banks but the sensitivity of green for tight turns. I'm thinking of a couple of other solutions. One would be to slip the clutch in blue but I haven't touched the clutch in all the time I've had EMs and I was a bit jerky with the clutch way back when I had a petrol bike. The other thought is to have the training button up on the handlebars in the form of push-and-release. So hopefully the detuned blue map would behave like green or perhaps even a little bit milder. I was looking at https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram and it seems to suggest that the training map used the OPTION port on the controller up to 2021 and that then became the PRB from 2022 onwards. However PRB and FRB seem to just deliver variable or fixed voltage to the same port yet FRB was available on 2021 so how did they get training map and FRB then? Maybe I'm not understanding this right. I've found a blanked-off connector coming out of the controller with green, yellow and black wires. What does that do? I've just removed the lighting circuit from my bike in order to simplify the wiring a bit. I was also concerned that the 12v DC/DC converter was wired direct to the main battery without a fuse, though I've found a fuse on my 2023 that wasn't there on the 2021. No matter, I had already removed the front light so it makes sense to get rid of the back as well and simplify things a bit. Just out of interest, there was another blanked-off connector on the lighting harness with yellow and black wires, labelled S?BD (It's hard to read but I think that's it). Anyone know what that might do?

It makes sense to me too. That's the way Inch Perfect work with EMs. However, I think (just my feeling, no facts) they are selling a lot more bikes in their area than in other parts of the country. And the UK is a lot smaller than the USA.

"All Models Arriving Spring of 2021". That doesn't fill me with confidence.

Moving on to the front brake, I find it fiddly to install the front brake pads, anti-rattle spring and retaining pin before fitting the calliper to the forks. So I made this guide to hold the pads in place while the calliper is being fitted. Once it's bolted on, insert the retaining pin and push the guide out, tucking the anti-rattle spring in place as it goes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6977705

It's good enough to use. Did a trial last weekend with no issues.

It was a slight (invisible) distortion of the housing caused by the bike landing upside-down. After much fiddling, poking and swearing I identified that when the half of the clamp that is integral with the housing was pressed hard against the handlebar, the throttle tube was binding against the bar. I couldn't get it to work by packing with a thin piece of plastic so used about three turns of PVC tape around the bar. I still can't tighten the screws as much as I would like but it is working now.

It's hard to tell, but I think that is the same length as the car version. I carry one bike in my Doblo car quite easily. It's a wheelchair conversion so the floor is lower giving extra headroom. OTOH I lose quite a lot of length due to the ramp.

I've just come across an issue with my Domino throttle. After a small inversion that has left the throttle with a minor scar in the plastic (which may be a red herring), it has become sticky. Off the bike or with the clamp screws loose, it is fine. As soon as I start to tighten the clamp screws the self-closing disappears. I've tried packing the clamps with a thin piece of plastic: no good. I've tried tightening the clamp screws with the throttle off the handlebar and it works fine. Any ideas? I'm reluctant to take the throttle apart because of the return spring and the alignment of the gears, but that is looking like it will have to be my next move.

Thanks chaps. But it wasn't intended as a trick question, Lineaway.