trapezeartist

It still recall the comment of an SU engineer many years ago, when I was waxing lyrical about twin Webers. "Anyone can design an hole."

If you're concerned about them starting too fast, hold the ignition lanyard and walk beside them. Then if they do shoot off with uncontrolled acceleration, you'll pull the lanyard off and stop the engine.

If you don't have any sort of retainer for the pads, they could be moving or twisting in the caliper and jamming against something.

Standard fuel is changing from E5 to E10 (ie up to 10% ethanol). Some people have concerns about the effect of ethanol on seals, O rings, etc. Premium grade fuel will still be E5 so use that if you have any doubts. Before I saw the (electric) light, I always used premium in whatever car, kart or motorbike was my toy-of-the-moment. It's only a few pence more, so why take any risk?

One washer wasn't enough. I've now added a second washer and swapped the M8x12 screw to M8x16. It's now much better than standard.

Some people advocate dragging the brake to get it really hot, and then throwing cold water over it. Personally I would take out the pads and rub the friction surfaces on a piece of 180 grit wet'n'dry. Then run the wet'n'dry on the disc. Then clean both with brake cleaner before reassembling.

And an airbox that doesn't hoover up mud, water and leaves. On my Fantic 200 I cleaned the air filter about once every 6 or 8 rides. On the Beta, every time! And a notch on the bottom right-hand side of the airbox so you can put a bleed nipple at the highest point in the rear brake hydraulics.

The propstand on the ePure holds the bike too upright so I have found I have to search out a low spot in the ground to place the stand on when parking up. It's a bit of a pain in the posterior so I went looking for a solution. Now I've put a washer under the inboard fixing to the swinging arm. It seems to be better in the garage, so I'm hopeful for the trial tomorrow. If it turns out to be better but not enough, I'll try two washers but that will need a slightly longer screw as there isn't a lot of thread engagement. Tyre clearance is also extremely tight. I don't know what can be done about the spring/tyre clearance but I've cut off the redundant spring lug and that definitely helps. Before, during and after photos below. The photos also illustrate the crappy quality of the paint. This is an 8 month-old bike! But I suppose that's down to Sherco who supply the stand, and not EM.

Absolutely agree. Though my top preference would be a map specifically for super-slippery stuff. Alternatively, a means of deleting the red map altogether. So one push would take you from blue to green. I'm sure I could find uses for that mid-section, but the thought of accidentally giving the button one push when I intended two gives me the willies.

Agreed. An extra inch in the wiring would be good. However, it does go lock-to-lock without pulling on the wire so I suppose they would say it's just right.

It doesn't have water in the display, does it? Mine picked up a little bit of damp, which started as condensation on the inside of the screen, then went to total non-function, then dried out a bit and the display came back but permanently on 100% whatever the battery state was. Based on my old and new displays, EM appear to have altered the way the wires come out of the potting resin to try to reduce cracking of the resin and consequent leaks.

As dgshannon said, there is no engine braking. You can get a fixed regenerative braking button which plugs straight in. I've been told that provides braking roughly equivalent to engine braking on a petrol bike. I'm still making up my mind whether to get one.

Welcome to the future. The instant torque is lovely, but easy to spin up the back wheel in slippery conditions. I've a way to go before I can say I'm on top of that, but maybe not such a problem in Texas.

Clever idea.

You need your crack seal doing? The mind boggles! 😇