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About drca

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  1. I am planning to make my own sticker kit for my 2013 TXT pro. It's relatively easy to find template files (free or $) for MX or enduro bikes but I haven't been able to find anything for my TXT in vector format with a precision good enough that I can design, print and make the final stickers. Would anyone have either a template file (vector graphics would be best, 1:1 size) or know where I can get (purchase?) one? Something like what's below but in vector format: Thanks.
  2. Quick update on this topic: I received my Tech fork (see above post) and I found a cheap Gas Gas front hub with rotor on eBay to experiment with setup without having to use the front wheel of my current bike. Bearing wise, I got a pair of cheap 6004 (20 x 42 x 12) to accommodate the 20 mm Tech axle (instead of the 25 mm from the Marzocchi fork axle). The 6004 are 3 mm wider than the stock 6905 (25 x 52 x 9) bearings. As expected the 6004 bearings stick out from the hub by 3 mm on each side: When mounted in the fork: There are three problems with this approach: The axle now sticks out by 6 mm (2 x 3 mm from the 6004 bearings) which also means 6 mm less thread engagement on the left side fork tube, which can't be good. The wheel is offset in the fork on the right side by 3 mm (not sure how this affects handling) The brake rotor is offset by 3 mm to the right side, requiring a spacer to put it back inline with the caliper. Spacers (and longer bolts) could be used on the caliper side, but that's extra parts that will need to be dealt with every time I take the caliper off) So, the ideal is to get 20 x 42 x 9 bearings either the 98204Y (which are hard to find especially in 2RS and $$$ - like $75 a pop) or, per benbeta23 recommendation get some B20-157 bearings. The B20-157 are easier to find (well not in the USA even tho these are products from a US company!) and pretty well priced at around $10 a pop). Here is what is looks like with the B20-157 bearings: And it all lines up with the caliper almost perfectly (it's offset by 0.4 mm to the right but that's an easy fix). Before I can get in on the bike I need to get an internal spacer. I might have to make my own because since Ga Gas uses 6004 bearings on the bikes with the Tech fork, it means that they must be using a different front wheel hub for these fork. I'll keep updating this post once I get it all working. Thanks again everyone for the help.
  3. For those who are curious... I just weighted both the Tech and Marzocchi fork and here is what I got: Each assembly was with the fork, front axle, triple clamp, steering stem, bottom bearing, steering nuts. Triple clamp for the Tech are Costa Special Part units The Marzocchi is the older model without the slimmer tubes in between the two triple clamps. Tech - 5.72 Kg / 12.6 Lbs Marzocchi - 7.6 Kg / 16.7 Lbs So close to 2 Kg / 4 Lbs advantage to the Tech fork. Not bad!
  4. Whoa, that's a lot of information, thanks! So, it looks like you kept the hub the same as for the Marzocchi fork (with the 6905 bearing and internal spacer). So if I get this right, you have some spacers do step down the ID of the bearings from the stock 25mm to the 20mm for the Tech axle. What I am not sure is how these spacers fit. Would you mind shooting me some photos? The disc rotor spacers make sense (SplatShop sells a one piece unit) and for the triple clamp (yokes), mine came with a shinny set of CSP that fit the Tech fork. Thanks again for all the help.
  5. Got my new toy today I have a few questions that I'll post in a new thread if I can't find answers online.
  6. Fantastic! I should receive the fork today or tomorrow. Thanks.
  7. Great. Can you tell me what hub / bearings you used?
  8. Yep, that's what I tried to explain (sorry I wasn't clear enough), but I can't find the part number for the hub only. So I don't know if the hubs are the same.
  9. I scored a complete Tech Fork setup for a reasonable price to replace my Marzocchi (which has scratched and bent tubes...) on my 2013 TXT Pro. The setup comes complete with the fork, axle and triple clamp. The front wheel axle on the Tech is 20mm vs 25mm on the Marzocchi. I assume the front hub on the Gas Gas are the same whether they are used on the Tech of Zooch and only the bearings and spacer change (and with the addition of a spacer on the brake rotor). From what I have seen on the 2013 TXT Factory Replica Gas Gas part list (which has the Tech fork), the front bearings part number is C160001 which look like 6004-2RS (20 x 42 x 12). Which would mean, again if the hubs are the same, that they will stick out of the hub by 3mm on each side (the bearings for the Zooch are 25 x 42 x 9). The only other alternative that would fit are the 98204Y-2RS (20 x 42 x 9), which are hard to find and rather pricey! So I was wondering if anyone could confirm: 1) That the hubs are the same for a Tech and a Marzocchi fork? 2) What bearings are used for the Tech fork? 3) if the bearings are indeed 6004's AND the hub are the same that the bearings aren't flush with the hub and stick out 3mm. Thanks. DC
  10. Thanks for all the answers (altho I didn't get the piece of string reference...). The 400 hours is based on riding 3 times a week for about 1.5 hours of bike running per session for about 30 weeks a year. Maintenance wise, here is what has been done: when I bought the bike I took it completely apart and even stripped the frame to the bare metal to inspect and have a few issues fixed: dings in the upper frame tube, rear engine mount cracked. I had the frame, swingarm and fork bottoms powder coated. I rebuilt the rear suspension (all bearings, bushings, seals and fork (seals, bushings, oil change) and the steering bearings. Rebuilt the front and rear brake calipers with new seals all around, new pads too. Then the usual new grips, folding lever, ban ends, chain and sprockets, new air filter, cleaned (ultrasonic) and rebuilt the carb, new reeds (carbon), new sparkplug, and new plastic and sticker kit all around (I recommend the Jitsie rear fender - indestructible!). Since that initial work, I have changed the bash plate and rubbers twice a year (yeah, sportsman rider here!). I check the wheels and rim every time I change the tires (see my other post on corroded rear rim). Wheel bearings are fine, but since they are cheap I'll probably change the this winter anyways. The rear engine mount cracked again (other one), so I had that fixed too. Engine wise I rebuilt the water pump, changed the radiator (bad fall!), fan (whinny fan syndrome due failed bearing) and the hoses (silicone ones). I had to change the clutch basket / main drive gear (see my other post on that, my mistake, the thrust bearing fell in the engine when I put the side case back). New kickstarter seal. I have a brand new exhaust (full set that I got from a guy who turned a brand new bike into an electric one) that I'll probably put on at one point, maybe this winter. Things to do this winter: full service (break it down to the frame, check and lube all the bearing and seals, replace the ones need replacement), new grips, fluid flush (coolant, brake, clutch), new fork (I bent the Marzocchi and I just bought a used Tech in like new condition), probably new rear shock (Ohlins). New wheel bearings, new bash plate and associated rubber pads. Switch from the Dell'Orto to a PWK (carb, intake manifold, reed box, cable). New clutch plates. Probably new clutch pedal (current one is wobbly and has been bent a couple of time). I'll probably throw in a new piston and rings too while the engine it out of the frame. Full bottom end rebuild will probably wait another year... Thanks again for the help.
  11. I have a 2013 TXT PRO 250 that I purchased used a couple of years ago with unknown number of hours. I probably put 400 hours on the bike since I bought it. I am wondering how many hours these bikes go before needing a top end rebuild. It's running fine, but it feels easier to kick than when I purchased the bike (which just might be me getting used to kicking it...) I haven't measured the compression yet, but I could do that if someone tells me what numbers I should expect from a compression test (and how to measure: carb on / off, reed box on/off, pipe on/off etc...). When doing a top end rebuild, what's needed (beside the gaskets)? Rings only? Piston? Thanks. DC
  12. I have a 2013 Gas Gas TXT Pro Racing with the flanged rear tubeless rim. I change my rear tire regularly but it seems that I am always in a hurry and never take the time to correctly inspect my rim when I do it. Well I have been having a slow pressure leak in the rear recently that became worse yesterday so I took the rear wheel off the bike and hunted for air leak with my bottle of soapy water. Turned out that there was some small rocks embedded between the rim and tire and most of the air was coming through there. But there is also a very small leak at the valve level (at the interface rim / valve). Is the tubeless valve on these rims the same as the automotive type or are they special trials rim version? So I took the tire off the rim and decided to clean up the tire were it makes contact with the rim as well as the rim. Well, I am sorry I didn't take photos of the rim before but after I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and sanding pad discs, here is what I had left: There are some pretty bad corrosion with flakes of alloy coming off... Is that common? What can cause that? Thanks. DC
  13. My advice... take the whole thing apart and check all the bushings and bearing, grease or replace as appropriate. Not sure where you ride (dry or wet) and when was the last time you serviced the suspension linkage, but that should be a regular maintenance item on these bikes (once a year minimum). And while you have the shock and linkage off the bike, might as well take and extra 15 mn to drop the swingarm and grease / replace the bearings there while you are at it
  14. I thought I had the video it bookmarked, but apparently not. I searched youtube for "JIm Snell Dell Orto" and the only video I could find was his video on the Dell Orto carb (very useful but nothing on the tuning of carb). From what I remember seeing in the video I am still looking for, the procedure was as follow: Warm up the engine Turn the iddle down at the limit of stalling Crack the throttle open fast If the engine bogs, adjust the mixture screw Repeat until happy with the result. Now... I can't remember which way to adjust the mixture screw function of the result of cracking the throttle... Thanks again for all the help.
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