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  1. I've now edited the original post to reflect my understanding that it was my own incorrect installation tooling and technique that is the root cause of this failure. I hang my head in shame. I wont say that this in any way reflects on the underlying quality of the kit - it may be perfect or it may be rubbish. All I know is that my installation damaged the bearing shells, which caused the failure of the rollers.
  2. I posted this in the General Forum, but thought I might link it in here as it is also specific to Beta. I had a complete failure of a recently installed All-Balls linkage kit in my Evo. Originally I thought it was due to poor quality bearings however I'm now left wondering if installation tools and technique wasn't at least partly to blame.
  3. I have now joined the common population. It surprises me that otherwise reputable stores would sell such rubbish.
  4. Updated and Edited. I've left in but struck out comments that I believe are unfair. Final conclusion - installer error. 50 hours ago (actually more like 40) I replaced my 350 hour old OEM Beta Evo linkage bearings with an All Balls kit. Suffice to say that you get what you pay for, or less. Today I pulled the linkage apart for a 50 hour service and found every roller in every bearing has lost an end guide tit. The resulting mess of debris and ground up metallic paste seized some bearings and badly wore others. What absolute rubbish! A total waste of time, effort and money. BUYER BEWARE! These things are totally unfit for purpose. Below is a photo of a typical roller and the mess of broken steel and steel-paste I recovered with a magnet out of the solvent. EDIT: I did some research looking for alternative bearings available locally and came across a Timken document (same image also in the Koyo document) which shows the design of a press tool for this type of bearing. Note the bevel on the pressing flange. This would ensure the face of the bearing is not deflected down onto the roller ends. On a caged bearing such as the OEM ones this probably isn't too important as the rollers don't extend into that part of the housing, but on a full complement bearing like the All-Balls this could be a problem. My press tool has a flat face beyond the pilot spigot. The Timken PDF also stated, "The bearing should be installed with the stamped end (the end with the identification markings) against the angled shoulder of the pressing tool.". I'm guessing this to be because the stamped end has not been thinned during the shell drawing process, so is sturdier. I didn't pay attention to which end of the bearing I was pressing against. I recovered the bearing shells from the bin and looked at them with a magnifying glass. Every bearing had signs of deformation on one end or the other, some on both (presumably from install/dismantle). It is very obvious when you look for it why you should only ever press the flat, stamped end! So I now put this failure down to my own mistakes and ignorance. Needless to say, I'll be modifying my press tool and paying attention to the stamped bearing end in future! In defence of All-Balls I'd say that I really like that they supply full-complement roller bearings, I think this is probably a better style of bearing for the high load/low rotation application in the linkage than the commonly available & OEM caged style. The bearing they use appears to be a clone of the Koyo 15BM2112 full complement drawn cup needle roller bearing. So in summary, beware that these bearings might need very particular care when installing, might be poor quality or perhaps both.
  5. I've never used it personally, but quite a few Australian clubs use the system from https://trialsport.com.au/ From an output perspective it works well: Typically Australian events use rider-carried cards for each lap. Carry your own card, observer punches each section (often orienteering style punches with a different hole shape for each section), card is handed in at the end of each lap and next lap card is given to rider. Sometimes the score is just blacked out with a marker pen - most commonly when rider-observation is used (ie another rider observes and scores and you reciprocate). I think that is different to many places where the observer keeps a sheet for all riders for their section? I spent a bit of time looking into using an OMR (Optical Mark Recognition) to scan lap cards. There were 1 or 2 systems that could possibly do it but most are structured for marking exams, which is somewhat different to just pulling in data. The biggest stumbling block was going to be dealing with cards with dirt & mud splattered over them - relatively easy for a human, but far harder for software! Where I am we punch out the numbers, so potentially using a backlit scanner could overcome that issue but then there's the case when the punch hasn't taken out the entire hole and so closes back over when scanned. In the end I decided it was looking all too flaky. The transponder type systems would be terrific when there's mobile signal, but certainly for us there are many events in locations with limited or no coverage. I think waiting until the end of the event for any results to come in would not be well received. I did wonder about a hybrid system where Observers use an app and transponders (Generic NFC cards are cheap as chips) to score and an official, or even riders, travel around the loop with a reader app. The reader polls all the observer devices for their data and collects it, then it's all periodically updated in the central scoring system for semi-live progress results. No need for mobile signal, just use bluetooth between the two devices as they come in range.
  6. But then here in Australia our local police have told kids who were going round and round their garden and p****** off the neighbours to just "disappear out into the bush where you're not annoying anyone". Illegal on multiple counts, but sensible given the alternatives. All comes down to the copper doing the catching in the end.
  7. I'm not sure if the OP got what they wanted from this thread? I'm not sure I see very clear answers to the original question. My general guide is this: Top of the reservoir cap pretty close to horizontal, maybe just very slightly sloping down. Generally I have the lever set in as far as it goes toward the handlebar bend. The pros have it much further out so the action is fast, but for mortals like me subtle control is far more useful than speed. Also the pros ride A LOT so their clutch fingers are probably much stronger. There's a little bit of a trade-off when you come to fine adjust the reach and bite point; sometimes right in toward the bend results in the reach too far out or the bite too far in. Compromise as best you can. Lever stop so the lever sits comfortably in the last joint of whichever finger you prefer. Further out will fatigue you or encourage you to take your finger off. Further in uses up precious travel. Right around the bite point I try to have the middle section of my finger roughly perpendicular to the first section (first being closest to my wrist). The rationale is that this is around where you get the best strength/control balance. Usually the clutch only just comes completely free (ie I can roll the bike backwards while balanced on the pegs) when I've got the lever hard on my closed knuckles. A tiny weeny bit of drag when I'm not hard on the knuckles doesn't bother me at all. I don't like silicone lever grippers on gloves because that part of the finger has to slide smoothly over the lever as it moves in & out. Some aren't so grippy as to be a problem, some I just peel off. As for which finger - no opinion. I use the index. Can't imagine trying to change to the middle. But either obviously work for different people. I'd always default to suggesting the index, but if it feels weird then by all means change.
  8. As Lineaway also said, the roll-up in it's various forms covers 90%+ of what most people ride. Certainly this is what Neil reinforces in the online coaching. There's a recent short Pat Smage video, "Just Hit it With the Front Wheel, It'll Go" - if that's somewhere close to the limits of the zap then I can't see myself ever being limited! That's a bigger obstacle than I'm likely to tackle any time soon. I've seen what I think you're referring to as Ryan's "bucking bronco" technique. I'd have to say it seems a bit left field to me, I don't see too many people actually using it at any level of competition. I've assumed it was a bit of an exercise to develop some skill or other rather than a technique to be honed and used - apparently not.
  9. I don't quite follow that. If the roll-up covers 90%, and the RSG roll-up covers 98% of obstacles, why would you learn a double blip as the basic move to get over something? Why not just learn roll-ups and then get good at them? A roll-up also includes touching the front wheel on the way up or clearing the front wheel, so you can always start to learn wheel placement accuracy and timing via the roll-up, preferably with RSG so the lift is done with clutch more than throttle. Personally my experience is that my zaps improved out of sight once I got the double blip out of the picture and concentrated on getting RSG throttle/clutch/timing sorted out better. I think dbl blip actually confused the issue by encouraging the front wheel to land too high for a good zap and relying too much on throttle, not developing clutch/throttle timing enough.
  10. Yes, I tend to agree a little about the weekly videos, a fair bit of friendly conversation in there. I think (guessing) they are primarily aimed at people who use Neil's face-to-face or online coaching, certainly they come across best when you've watched a series of them and you start to see the common threads. RSG is just a gem I reckon - it's amazing how hard it is to be absolutely accurate with it, but as it gets better so much else comes along with it. As you say, filming yourself and editing it down for delivery is of itself really valuable I've found. Sometimes I end up not even posting it for Neil to comment on because by the time I've watched it a few times and scrolled back and forth I can see what I need to do anyway! But when I do post something then inevitably the response is clear, simple and usually comes back to building basic skills. The other big advantage of the online thing you've also alluded to - it's delivered consistently over an extended time, and you can always go back and look at previous comments and guidance. Being able to do that helps avoid the issue of latching onto just one thing and forgetting the rest.
  11. I don't think you've really seen his coaching if you say he skips a lot of the finer parts. I don't have much experience with face-to-face coaching because there just isn't any available anywhere near me, but comparing to the little I have had and the many hours of online stuff I've looked at he goes into far more detail without adding unnecessary clutter. The idea of "going into a higher gear and attacking hard and true" is absolutely the opposite of what Neil tries to develop. Yes, sometimes you need some speed and power, no question, but it's always better to use the minimum that gets the job done effectively. Why do you say skipping the double blip is bad? A reasonably modern bike can just ride (by driving the back wheel into it, with good technique) over anything you'd use a double blip over, with less complication and probably carrying less speed if you've already learned how to use a few revs and the clutch. Effectively a double blip in the end is just driving the rear wheel into the obstacle, there's no real lift generated. So why add in the first blip? Of course some of this comes back to that old nut, the definition of a double blip - does it use the clutch or not, or doesn't it matter? I seem to recall you saying something along the lines of the double blip being a hold over from the days of twinshocks and with no need on modern bikes? As for learning to hop before learning to turn, Neil certainly shares your view. But I'm still trying to learn to hop, probably to his frustration :-). Not because I think I need it, but purely because it seems a fun thing to be able to do - I ride for fun and get to an occasional event along the way.
  12. Just sharing something that has helped me incredibly much over roughly the past year. I'm just a happy user. Neil Price is an Australian Expert level rider, 18 times West Aust. champion, 2x Aust Champ, has competed in Europe and World rounds and all round nice fella. He has been coaching trials for decades and is a real thinker - always considering the detail that makes things work. A year or so ago Neil started a Facebook online coaching group which proved the concept had wings. Six months ago (+/-) he launched a dedicated online platform - quite similar to most social media platforms - Feed, Chat, Likes, Comments, Notifications, Hashtags etc. but also "groups" & sections for various "libraries" of information. This is a paid subscription service. Within the platform Neil posts all sorts of info - demo videos, monthly challenges, training plans etc. Members can also post video and ask for feedback and pointers, which Neil responds to individually. All in all a pretty good platform. Neil has a somewhat different take on how to build and use techniques than anyone else I've seen online - it's so refreshing! Simple, easy to understand and builds really solid foundations for every type of manoeuvre. Some of the building blocks he uses are: Static balance figure 8's building turning skills, clutch & throttle RSG - this is such a good tool. Rev, Squat, Go. He uses this from very early on to build fundamental throttle, clutch and timing, and builds on it as rider skill increases. It is the basic building block for the next 3. Ride technique - literally riding the back wheel up an obstacle. Doesn't matter if the front wheel hits, touches or clears the obstacle, if the back wheel drives up the face it's "Ride". Punch - pretty much what commonly gets called Zap or Jap Zap Splat - probably needs no explanation here. That's it, simple. Notable is the absence of double blip. For a whole bunch of reasons he just doesn't teach it or talk about it. I can't say enough good things about Neil's coaching! As someone turning 60 this year, and who really only started riding dirt bikes a few years ago (I rode a bit 45 years ago, but then a looong break) I am staggered how far my riding has come in the past year with Neil. Progress that unquestionably would have been impossible without consistent professional coaching. Where I live that just isn't going to happen if it's not online! If you want to see Neil in (coaching) action go to YouTube Trials and Enduro Skills where Neil does a weekly live show. https://www.neilprice.com/signup/xqistX
  13. I've got a 2020 EVO 300 with about 200 hours on it, always had an inline fuel filter and air filter cleaned and oiled frequently. Recently I started having an issue with it getting an erratic idle. It seemed like the idle would rise after a long hard climb (say 500m to 1km). It would also rise on long descents. Performance otherwise was just fine, nice crisp response over the whole throttle/rev range. I removed the carb and thoroughly cleaned (including removing the jet tower) and blew out all orifices, checked vents, checked float height and needle sealing. Also checked that fuel is not overflowing when the front is raised (lifted wheel ever higher until it overflowed). Problem remained pretty much the same. Finally I realised that the rise in idle on descent particularly was due to running out of fuel in the tank. I tend to climb ever higher as I ride, then return back down at the end of the ride. Possibly my rides were getting a little longer, and also as my riding improves I'm using more power/revving harder and spending more time with the front in the air. This would somewhat explain the increase in fuel usage, but it doesn't feel like it fully explains it. In the past I've monitored fuel usage over a number of tanks and it averaged a bit over 1.1L per hour. Yesterday I started to monitor current use and it came in around 1.8L/hour. This seems a fairly big jump (60%), but I've no idea if it's in the range that is "normal". Certainly it's getting annoying having to cut my rides short so I can get back home again - yesterday I ran out on main, switched to reserve and headed home - ran out as I pulled into the shed. I was only about 2km or so from home when I went to reserve. Does anyone else have any figures for their EVO 300 fuel consumption?
  14. You probably weighed around 5 times what your bike weighed and the pedal was much closer to the ground than a trials bike foot peg, so there is an immense difference in the magnitude and location of the forces involved. I'd need to weigh around 350kg to get a similar mass relationship to my bike, and drop the foot pegs to within a few inches of the ground to have a similar mechanical relationship. I dare say it might be possible to pick up a trials bike from the ground like that, but I imagine you'd be standing on the spokes or tyre and be heaving both hands on the upper handlebar grip to do it! There's probably a video of someone doing it on YouTube if you looked hard enough!
  15. My 2020 has the brake pivot setup as shown. The lever is right up against the frame. Works fine. My 2017 was the same from memory.
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