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About bikerpet

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    2017 Beta 300

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  1. I've had a small squeak in the rear end about half way into the stroke for a few hours so went to work on the linkages yesterday. Checked all bolts - found a loose top mount. Squeak still there. Pulled the linkages apart and re-greased, 50 hours since last re-grease. Found one rear dogbone bush that's case hardening has broken up, but other than that all good. Reassembled everything. Squeak still there. Very nearly decided to just ignore it and assume it was an overflow hose or something rubbing, but resisted and kept hunting. Tightened the bash plate bolts. Still there. Checked the rear engine mount - bolt was considerably loose. Tighten that and squeak is gone. Glad I didn't blow it off!
  2. Not sure exactly what fixed this, but it is. I shortened the pedal spring a little which took any pressure off the master cylinder piston. I also cleaned and cycled the caliper pistons (in-situ) and swapped the pads side for side as they had worn unevenly. Getting a bit thin, but still well above minimum at any place. Problem gone.
  3. Did you get this sorted? If so how? I've been there, done that - new bike (5 hours), discovered bolt head was off and jammed as you describe. Pulling it through enlarges the frame lug hole. From memory I used a small clamp to get onto the threaded end and push it back out. I then welded a new head on in it while I waited for a replacement, but found that the welded section got brittle and snapped off easily. Now I am very careful to torque correctly - can't get a torque wrench on that nut so I put the ring spanner on the torque wrench in a vice and calibrate my finger before tightening - for me it's a very firm one finger pull = 40Nm. One of the very few really badly designed parts I've come across on the Beta. 8mm stud with a head welded on - who came up with that idea, there's room there for a better solution!
  4. Thanks drca. That's an impressively compact clutch they've built for it!
  5. Be Brave / Bold / Confident. The number of times I've failed obstacles due to being half-hearted far outweighs the number of times due to going too hard! Usually after I've given myself a stern talking-to and had a real attempt it's actually quite easy. Don't be stupid, but if you think you can do something, give it a red-hot go or don't bother at all. If you're not ready to really give it a crack, you're not ready. A half a***d attempt is a recipe for failure, which is a recipe for injury.
  6. Ha. I'm not sure I ever cleaned the air filter on my TY175 back in the '70's. Perhaps I should have? ? I reckon you've got to keep in mind they design them for the elite end of the spectrum - I don't think that lot care too much if the filter needs a clean every few days, just set the mechanic on it. I'd have to say that for the most part the Beta seems pretty well done, surprising for the country that created Alfa Romeo & Fiat. ?️
  7. That's a good thought - I haven't looked inside the Beta MC before. EDIT: Just looked at the Beta MC exploded view and it appears there's no internal return spring. I did shorten the pedal return spring a little today to give the pedal/rod some free play, so I'll see if that makes any difference. If not I'll dig into the cylinder.
  8. Sounds like I might need to do some mods to the rear brake setup. I've backed the pedal stop bolt right in, so there's plenty of free play at the pedal, but the return spring doesn't lift the pedal off the push rod/piston despite being fully collapsed and apparently undamaged. I'll try adjusting the push rod until I get some free play, but I feel like I'm going to end up with the pedal well below where I want it at rest and at bite. Seems like the solution might be a slightly shorter spring. It just seems weird that it's been perfect since new in Sept. last year and now the adjustments are all out of whack. I checked the pads, there's plenty of life left in them (Obviously don't use them enough ). Not a big deal really, just something to work through. Front pads - just measured them. Bang on 2.0 mm at their thinnest point! Who'd of thought to take notice of an owners manual!
  9. The SSDT prep sheet says to seal the airbox cover, so doing a neat and semi-permanent job doesn't seem to have much downside. Nipping a couple of cable ties and pulling out two nylon screws is insignificant compared to cleaning, oiling and refitting the filter anyway. Works for me. I haven't taped the front of my frame, as it comes in to winter I'll give it a try though. I bought some reticulated foam from ebay for cheap (fish tank filter) so I'll fit that too as the SSDT guide also suggests. The cover did help keep out the big debris for me - leaves and such. On my previous Sherco I fitted strong magnets to the rear guard - that worked a treat. When the guard got pulled off it simply re-attached itself automatically, half the time I never even really knew it had come off. I tried an industrial velcro on the Beta but that was a complete fail. I haven't worked out how to squeeze magnets into the Beta so I keep using cable ties. The other somewhat related mod I've done was to the rubbish front mudguard integral brace. Once it inevitably started to fail I cut the black plastic brace out and made an aluminium brace. I've drawings for that if it's of interest. I've got a basic press brake, but it could be bent in a vice easily enough.
  10. Thanks. Hopefully it's as simple as the new pads I've fitted - haven't ridden it yet, but in the shed they definitely feel better. If not I'll look at the master cylinder kit.
  11. I haven't looked at this issue yet, it just surfaced today so it could be an obvious fix. When I squeeze the front brake I find I squeeze a little and nothing really happens, then suddenly it goes "click" (no idea if it's audible, just what it feels like) and the brake comes on. From there on it's quite normal and works fine. Release the brake, squeeze again and same thing. Maybe sticky caliper pistons? Or master cylinder piston? Or in the pushrod or lever pivot maybe? Perhaps even the disk not floating properly? Anyone else experienced this and have any solutions before I start pulling things apart. On another note the back brake heated up on a long descent the other day and the fluid must have expanded and wasn't getting back past the M/C so the brake started to bind. Odd because it's never done so before and I've not changed anything. I loosened off the pedal stop, but it was barely hitting the stop so I'm not convinced that's the issue. The pedal return spring doesn't pull the pedal up any further now anyway, although the pedal is certainly free to move - spring is fully collapsed. Maybe tweaking the piston rod? Cheers. EDIT: I took a look this morning and decided the front pads were a bit thin so replaced them and that seems to have fixed it. The old ones weren't as thin as I used to let the pads on my GasGas get, but perhaps the Grimeca are more sensitive - or perhaps it's a built in indicator?
  12. I'm another who buys M6 x 16 from ebay - they are rubbish screws but that's actually an advantage in this situation. 20mm might be better as the 16's often strip and pull out too easily - I'll buy them next time. For the airbox cover I just use a button head to hold the filter in place. I heated and pushed the bottom of the cover nipple (where the bolt usually seats) up a little so it sits down properly now there's a bolt under it. Then used Bear or Norton or somesuch Weather Proof clear tape to tape the airbox cover to the guard. At the back I use thin zip ties - just pre-bend the tip of the right hand one so it feeds through OK. I keep 4 spares tucked in the handlebar cables because they do break easily - sometimes I bust one just kicking the guard as I inelegantly mount or dismount, but I'd prefer that little nuisance than buying a new guard! I also trimmed the hook under the guard - probably could have just reduced it rather than trim it almost right back. Ended up sort of re-creating it with some good duct tape to keep a good seal. Now the whole guard and airbox cover come off as one piece. I've snapped innumerable zip ties and lost or broken perhaps 8 or so plastic bolts, but the guard is just like new. I also made a filter cover out of an old acetate binder cover - rough copy of one you can buy aftermarket for $$ - keeps some of the bigger debris and water out of the filter.
  13. I really can't comment on the EM with any authority as I've never ridden one and only seen one older one in the flesh. However I am in the midst of designing and building my own lightweight electric trials bike and have been learning a lot about electric bikes generally. The older EM's used a very common Kelly controller that should be pretty simple to alter settings to whatever you want. There's a limit to what these generic controllers can control, the big one in my mind being exactly what micm mentions - there's really no useful way to prevent the motor accelerating if the wheel loses grip with any throttle at all on. The contoller basically controls torque, so if load is less than torque, the motor spins up until load equals torque, or max rpm is reached. Not great in mud I expect. There's another controller mode, Speed mode, where the throttle signals a desired RPM, not a desired torque. These seem to be pretty brutal on a bike as they effectively give full power until the requested RPM is achieved, then back off to hold it there. The Kelly controllers (and a few others) do have a hybrid Torque/Speed mode where the throttle setting calls for a particular speed, but how far the throttle has been moved determines the torque that's delivered to get there. This might be a better mode in poor traction, but from what I've read it doesn't really feel natural or smooth for anyone coming off petrol bikes. A few people use it, but most seem to end up on torque mode. It might be worth a try for really slippery conditions. I don't know if the Kelly lets you change control modes on the fly, or just the settings within the current control mode. I can't recall which controller the Pure series use, I believe they changed to a different brand, but still pretty generic. It certainly can also be altered in a myriad of ways to get the response you want, within it's limits. Currently I don't believe there is a production controller available that can replicate what our flywheels do - particularly that you can get some momentum up, cut the throttle and let the flywheel carry the bike - the key with that, as we all know, is that the back wheel can't break loose and spin up, it's always slowing down so is much more likely to retain or recover grip. The Race with it's "real" clutch and adjustable flywheel has got to be a vastly different beast to the older ones with the pseudo clutch and less significant flywheel. Sadly they're well out of my budget so hi-ho it's DIY we go. My build is based around a dual suspension Fat Bike MTB with a KX65 clutch grafted onto the electric motor, and a flywheel fitted inside the motor housing. Lots to do before it sees the light of day! I'd really like to find out more about how the Race is constructed - is the clutch on the motor shaft or a jackshaft? Which controller do they use? How heavy and large is the flywheel? how heavy are the adjustment weights (I'm guessing they have weights as the advertising mentions adjutable flywheel or some such).
  14. Well that all sounds like it'll still be feeling pretty good for more hours than I anticipated - touch wood. 25-30 events a year! I'm lucky to get to 2 or 3. But then I practice whenever I can, even if only for 15-20 minutes (I have a little park setup a couple of hundred meters from the house, and I certainly need the practice). I always use a lanyard switch - cheap assurance against jamming the throttle. The bike's had it's "lockdown service", now I'm deep into the tractor. Definitely prefer working on the bike! I'm also working away on putting together an electric Fat-E trials bike (dual suspension fat bike with electric drive) - it's turning into a more complex project than I'd anticipated due to shoe-horning a wet-plate clutch onto the motor!
  15. I'll keep clear of the "who's doing it best" discussion, or "what's appropriate activity". My main concern as it relates directly to trials is that with Italy and Spain being hit so hard what's going to happen to all the manufacturers? Dealers are obviously in the firing line too, but, ignoring the personal calamities that might occur, dealerships are far more agile than manufacturers. The names, faces and knowledge may change, but if there's a manufacturer then there will be someone ready to deal them. I've little doubt that new bike sales are going to take a hit. Probably used bikes too I'm guessing. That's not going to help the manufacturers get back on their feet. Could make for some good deals on NOS bikes though ? Torrot is a decent size company, so I expect Spain will help them stay afloat if needed, but GasGas trials can't be a huge money spinner or employer so could they be part of a paring down / cost cutting? Sherco / Scorpa - small manufacturer, who knows what support they might need or get. Beta - ?? no idea really. I'd guess they'd be in line for government support if needed, but that queue's going to be a long one. Electric Motion - again, no idea. Small company, maybe that's good, maybe it's bad. At least they are dominant in their own category. JGas - From the number I see around the place it amazes me they're still in business anyway. No clue what their situation is, perhaps e-bicycles will keep them afloat. If they do survive then perhaps they'll be in a good place to move into the E-Trials era I've no doubt is coming. Only time will tell, and undoubtedly each country will be doing it's best to try to retain any and all industries, and presumably export businesses will be particularly precious. I'm certainly not going out panic buying parts for my bike, but it does concern me which manufacturers are going to come out of this, at least in the shorter term. Perhaps we'll all be on Japanese built Honda and maybe Yamaha in a few years? No doubt they'll all be electric anyway. Perhaps that's the silver lining for trials, this shake up might accelerate the move to E-Trials.
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