bikerpet

Can you tell me the sizes of the hex (nuts)? That's what I'm missing. Thanks

I'm planning on replacing the sliding bushes in my forks some time in the not too far distant future and am hoping someone can enlighten me about the Cartridge Assembly Tool 080008000 used to hold the left leg end stroke regulator. What is the working end? It looks like it is just a socket key, but what size? Presumably it should be easily replicated with a suitable allen key on an extension.

FWIW I've had an earlier version of that vest for years. Don't use it often now as I don't seem to crash as much 🙂, but it's excellent. Mine is basically the 7855 with short sleeves. It's certainly warmer than not wearing it (nice in winter) but I can wear it reasonably comfortably even in summer. I prefer the older version as it had small shoulder guards that give me a little more protection against shoulder and maybe clavical injuries. I looked at every MTB vest I could find and the TLD was clearly the best option I could find at the time for our use. It doesn't prevent all painful minor injuries - poky bits can go between the gaps between the pads, voice of experience! But it makes a big difference in many otherwise painful crashes. It makes me much more confident when riding ugly pointy rocky sections. Think about what you'll wear it with. It can be pretty tough to get off if you wear it under your jersey, it sticks to sweaty skin and the stiff pads make it impossible to 'roll' off like regular jerseys. Can be a real struggle without a helper sometimes. Fairly easy to tear the inter-pad material if you pull too hard getting it off. I always wear it over a light jersey. I find light MTB jerseys best as they tend not to be as thick/warm, which is a definite consideration once you add the vest. When it's over a jersey it's no problem to take off at all. I always wanted to find a really thin mesh type singlet to use under it, but never did.

To me the most interesting sentence in there is, New software integrating engine speed drop management That's exactly where I've been trying to go, & is the electronic equivalent of a flywheel. I wonder if they've implemented it as simply "speed drop" or if it's bidirectional (& asymmetric). If it's uni-directional then I predict they'll shortly introduce a bidirectional version. I don't believe we're close to being able to completely replace the flywheel, but this is a really big step forward. In my view it's impossible to build a really good electric trials without direct control of RPM rate of change, up & down. A flywheel does that for ICE bikes, a combination of flywheel & electronics is going to be the optimal solution for e-trials, at least for a while yet and I'm inclined to think possibly long term too. Now I'm starting to get interested in EM.

I'm having to replace the RH Crank main seal (bike was consuming gearbox oil) so while I'm in there I thought about replacing the water pump seals as preventative maintenance. In the end I decided 'if it's not broken, don't fix it'. I'll probably regret that, the bike's got 280 hours without any pump problems but I'm probably pushing a friendship at this stage. I did take the impeller off to take a look and found that it has been rubbing on the housing. It's caused a small amount of galling on the back of the impeller, some flakes of plastic in under there and obvious rubbing wear on the housing. My solution was to put the impeller in the lathe and take about 0.5mm out of the back recess. I checked periodically with bearing blue until I just had full clearance. There was slight rubbing at the perimeter flange too but I solved that by rubbing the impeller on some wet & dry on a flat surface. Previously I could hear the rubbing when I turned the impeller up to my ear. Now that's all gone. Pic after machining. Hopefully this will avoid debris in the coolant, possible damage to the outside seal and potential failure of the impeller. As an aside, just in case anyone comes looking: The Primary Gear Bolt is RH thread with Loctite 243 on it. It took a really solid go at it with heat and a pneumatic impact wrench to get it off. I snapped one hex driver (not a top quality driver). The seal, bush and O Ring all need replacing at the same time. Pretty easy to remove the seal - pull the bush out with a couple of magnets then lever out the seal.

Follow up on this. New CDI, no more trouble. I've stripped the potting out of the old one with the intention of trying to find the failed component. I suspect it could be something cheap and easy to fix like a capacitor. But of course once the bike is running nicely the motivation to spend time locating a solved problem is very low!

Just a follow up. I put a 1.5mm rubber washer cut from insertion rubber sheet between the top triple clamp and the nut. My thinking was the rubber would stop the nut from rotating. It seems to have worked extremely well. I've not had any more trouble at all. Haven't had to touch it in the past 80 hours of riding. A cheap easy fix. I suspect slipping an O Ring in there would do the job too.

I get $18,158. Presumably AU$ for me. 1.5 times the cost of an ICE bike & still need to add in shipping & local taxes. I see a very niche market for this bike unless it is actually better performing than current ICE bikes! I'll be interested to see the final AU distributor's pricing.

Yes. The OEM caliper wore grooves that affected function in just a couple of hundred hours. That can and should be improved. No. Take a moment to look at the picture again and you should see the shim I made is in the front of the caliper where the pads bear on the caliper body. Where I photographed the cleaned up wear grooves as described in the post two above my 'solution' post. (below) I like JB weld, but I'm not at all convinced that it's sufficiently hard, strong and abrasion resistant enough in thin sections to outperform aluminium. Maybe it is, but I'm not sufficiently confident to spend time on it. I think some thin 1/2 hard stainless sheet would be far superior.

If you're referring to the clip in the photo, that's the anti-wear shim I tried to create. Thinner SS required though. The anti-rattle spring sits over the top of the pads. But I've ditched that anyway.

That can certainly be a problem, but I'm careful to keep the required free play, and if in doubt I take the top off to check for that little pulse of return fluid. I did wonder if maybe I had too much fluid in the reservoir so the expanding fluid had nowhere to go, but I backed off the m/c cap screws while it was still hot and holding brakes and it didn't make any difference. Fingers crossed.

I think I have it licked without any work on the m/c. As the video in the post I just made shows, the m/c doesn't have anything much to do with piston retraction so this problem is unlikely to be caused by anything happening at the handlebars. The brakes always went on a treat, no complaints at all - it was just the release that was a problem.

Thanks for all the advice, including a key PM from @konrad I was under the misapprehension that the retraction of the master cylinder piston before the feed hole opened was the main cause of retraction. I believe I've previously heard it's actually the seals, but it apparently went straight out the other ear. The front of the caliper did have grooves from the pads bearing on it. I'd given them a bit of a file to reduce them but @hugo_furst's prompting encouraged me to clean them right up. I'd looked for that due to the way a slight rollback helped to release the drag somewhat. So today I took the caliper apart again. This time I inspected the seals carefully and could see slight ridges where they have been extruding past the groove on the outer side. The grooves appeared quite clean but I gave them extra attention and replaced the seals flipped from their original position so the ridges are now on the interior side. The seals felt quite supple. I filed and scraped the pad bearing surfaces flat and square. I also filed the edges of the pads to remove the stamping roughness and put a small radius on the edges, hopefully this will reduce the scraping on the caliper surface and reduce future grooving. I tried making a stainless wear plate but there is very, very little clearance around the pistons so I would need to do some more excavation of the caliper body to fit any stainless I have here in there - 1mm was too thick. Perhaps 0.5mm sheet might fit, but it needs to be carefully shaped to sit clear of the piston. Another day perhaps. Now reassembled and very thoroughly bled. They feel better than they have for a long time. Complete release with no noticeable drag at all. Hooray. I'll try to remember to report back after they've got some hours on them to say if it's a lasting or temporary fix. Thanks everyone. EDIT. I forgot to add - Konrad sent me a link to this video showing quite clearly that it's the seals not the master cylinder that actuates the piston retraction. I should also say - probably the 'correct' solution for this is a new seal kit. But I'm your typical tight trials rider so I'd rather spend hours faffing about than spend $100 on a kit! Besides, I learnt something new.

Good suggestion, I'll take a careful look. Although I can't recall seeing anything remotely looking like damage. You never know if you don't look though. Thinking about it, it seems very unlikely - when I was bleeding with the syringe I could get a very generous flow up the hose with quite little pressure. Hmmm. I obviously don't know what I'm doing because I haven't solved it!

The front caliper on my '21 TRS has an annoying tendency to drag constantly and I can't seem to fix it. Couple of days ago on a long steep descent it overheated so badly I completely lost front brake. It wasn't from over use of the brake, it's a hill I've been riding a couple of times a week for quite a few years on a variety of bikes. I am very careful how I use the brakes and it's not a problem. But this time the brake was dragging really quite hard - it would start to skid a little on flat, loose dirt with no brake applied. I took it very carefully down trying not to use front brake at all, but it still completely overheated to the point of the disc just beginning to blue at one point! Sometimes it releases a little better if I roll the bike backwards a bit. I'm not sure it hasn't always had a bit of drag from new, but it certainly didn't bother me until recently. Bike has about 250 hours, I ride on some moderately hilly terrain. I've checked the fluid return hole is well and truly open when the lever is at rest. Replaced pads. I've removed the pistons and cleaned bores and pistons. Re-filled and bled. Still got more drag than I think it should - serviceable but not ideal. I'm not totally convinced that perhaps my bleed is leaving a tiny pocket of air that's preventing the pads completely sucking back off the disc, but I'd be a bit surprised. I finished the last bleed with the caliper off the bike with a syringe on the nipple and giving the caliper good taps as I rotated it into different positions trying to encourage every last bubble to the bleed nipple. It's sitting overnight with a strap on the lever at present. Has anyone got any insights?