bikerpet

Two helpful tips I've learnt: Kick it right from where it stopped. Don't ease the kick start around until it hits compression, just get straight at it. And/or roll the bike backwards in gear until it stops. Pull the clutch & a good swift kick. Only move the kick lever enough to engage the ratchet, no more. Then aim for the fastest stomp you can. Trials flywheels are big & heavy, especially Beta. So you want to make sure you have as much swing as possible to get that thing moving before it gets onto compression. Then the flywheel does a lot of the work for you. I'm 63 & have no trouble at all starting a TRS 300RR or a 300 Beta if I follow this. It's frowned upon, but if I'm tired I'll carefully start it on the side stand. Get on & up, then gradually tip the bike off the stand & then kick. This way you don't stress the sidestand too much.

I like my Airoh up to about mid 30°C. Then I use the full face MTB, which is vastly cooler. Except we have to use certified moto helmet at events. It's all compromise, choose your poison. Busted teeth & face with an open trials lid. Potential penetrating injury with an MTB. Heat stroke with a full face dirt bike lid. Take your pick.

Another magnetic lanyard part. Includes the bead. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2788445

Maybe they need to consider e-jotagas for a resurrection. With the offset shock it seems they'd have better options for mass distribution than a conventional shock. That's where my interest originally arose.

Can you tell me the sizes of the hex (nuts)? That's what I'm missing. Thanks

I'm planning on replacing the sliding bushes in my forks some time in the not too far distant future and am hoping someone can enlighten me about the Cartridge Assembly Tool 080008000 used to hold the left leg end stroke regulator. What is the working end? It looks like it is just a socket key, but what size? Presumably it should be easily replicated with a suitable allen key on an extension.

FWIW I've had an earlier version of that vest for years. Don't use it often now as I don't seem to crash as much 🙂, but it's excellent. Mine is basically the 7855 with short sleeves. It's certainly warmer than not wearing it (nice in winter) but I can wear it reasonably comfortably even in summer. I prefer the older version as it had small shoulder guards that give me a little more protection against shoulder and maybe clavical injuries. I looked at every MTB vest I could find and the TLD was clearly the best option I could find at the time for our use. It doesn't prevent all painful minor injuries - poky bits can go between the gaps between the pads, voice of experience! But it makes a big difference in many otherwise painful crashes. It makes me much more confident when riding ugly pointy rocky sections. Think about what you'll wear it with. It can be pretty tough to get off if you wear it under your jersey, it sticks to sweaty skin and the stiff pads make it impossible to 'roll' off like regular jerseys. Can be a real struggle without a helper sometimes. Fairly easy to tear the inter-pad material if you pull too hard getting it off. I always wear it over a light jersey. I find light MTB jerseys best as they tend not to be as thick/warm, which is a definite consideration once you add the vest. When it's over a jersey it's no problem to take off at all. I always wanted to find a really thin mesh type singlet to use under it, but never did.

I'm having to replace the RH Crank main seal (bike was consuming gearbox oil) so while I'm in there I thought about replacing the water pump seals as preventative maintenance. In the end I decided 'if it's not broken, don't fix it'. I'll probably regret that, the bike's got 280 hours without any pump problems but I'm probably pushing a friendship at this stage. I did take the impeller off to take a look and found that it has been rubbing on the housing. It's caused a small amount of galling on the back of the impeller, some flakes of plastic in under there and obvious rubbing wear on the housing. My solution was to put the impeller in the lathe and take about 0.5mm out of the back recess. I checked periodically with bearing blue until I just had full clearance. There was slight rubbing at the perimeter flange too but I solved that by rubbing the impeller on some wet & dry on a flat surface. Previously I could hear the rubbing when I turned the impeller up to my ear. Now that's all gone. Pic after machining. Hopefully this will avoid debris in the coolant, possible damage to the outside seal and potential failure of the impeller. As an aside, just in case anyone comes looking: The Primary Gear Bolt is RH thread with Loctite 243 on it. It took a really solid go at it with heat and a pneumatic impact wrench to get it off. I snapped one hex driver (not a top quality driver). The seal, bush and O Ring all need replacing at the same time. Pretty easy to remove the seal - pull the bush out with a couple of magnets then lever out the seal.

Follow up on this. New CDI, no more trouble. I've stripped the potting out of the old one with the intention of trying to find the failed component. I suspect it could be something cheap and easy to fix like a capacitor. But of course once the bike is running nicely the motivation to spend time locating a solved problem is very low!

Just a follow up. I put a 1.5mm rubber washer cut from insertion rubber sheet between the top triple clamp and the nut. My thinking was the rubber would stop the nut from rotating. It seems to have worked extremely well. I've not had any more trouble at all. Haven't had to touch it in the past 80 hours of riding. A cheap easy fix. I suspect slipping an O Ring in there would do the job too.

Yes. The OEM caliper wore grooves that affected function in just a couple of hundred hours. That can and should be improved. No. Take a moment to look at the picture again and you should see the shim I made is in the front of the caliper where the pads bear on the caliper body. Where I photographed the cleaned up wear grooves as described in the post two above my 'solution' post. (below) I like JB weld, but I'm not at all convinced that it's sufficiently hard, strong and abrasion resistant enough in thin sections to outperform aluminium. Maybe it is, but I'm not sufficiently confident to spend time on it. I think some thin 1/2 hard stainless sheet would be far superior.

If you're referring to the clip in the photo, that's the anti-wear shim I tried to create. Thinner SS required though. The anti-rattle spring sits over the top of the pads. But I've ditched that anyway.

That can certainly be a problem, but I'm careful to keep the required free play, and if in doubt I take the top off to check for that little pulse of return fluid. I did wonder if maybe I had too much fluid in the reservoir so the expanding fluid had nowhere to go, but I backed off the m/c cap screws while it was still hot and holding brakes and it didn't make any difference. Fingers crossed.

I think I have it licked without any work on the m/c. As the video in the post I just made shows, the m/c doesn't have anything much to do with piston retraction so this problem is unlikely to be caused by anything happening at the handlebars. The brakes always went on a treat, no complaints at all - it was just the release that was a problem.

Thanks for all the advice, including a key PM from @konrad I was under the misapprehension that the retraction of the master cylinder piston before the feed hole opened was the main cause of retraction. I believe I've previously heard it's actually the seals, but it apparently went straight out the other ear. The front of the caliper did have grooves from the pads bearing on it. I'd given them a bit of a file to reduce them but @hugo_furst's prompting encouraged me to clean them right up. I'd looked for that due to the way a slight rollback helped to release the drag somewhat. So today I took the caliper apart again. This time I inspected the seals carefully and could see slight ridges where they have been extruding past the groove on the outer side. The grooves appeared quite clean but I gave them extra attention and replaced the seals flipped from their original position so the ridges are now on the interior side. The seals felt quite supple. I filed and scraped the pad bearing surfaces flat and square. I also filed the edges of the pads to remove the stamping roughness and put a small radius on the edges, hopefully this will reduce the scraping on the caliper surface and reduce future grooving. I tried making a stainless wear plate but there is very, very little clearance around the pistons so I would need to do some more excavation of the caliper body to fit any stainless I have here in there - 1mm was too thick. Perhaps 0.5mm sheet might fit, but it needs to be carefully shaped to sit clear of the piston. Another day perhaps. Now reassembled and very thoroughly bled. They feel better than they have for a long time. Complete release with no noticeable drag at all. Hooray. I'll try to remember to report back after they've got some hours on them to say if it's a lasting or temporary fix. Thanks everyone. EDIT. I forgot to add - Konrad sent me a link to this video showing quite clearly that it's the seals not the master cylinder that actuates the piston retraction. I should also say - probably the 'correct' solution for this is a new seal kit. But I'm your typical tight trials rider so I'd rather spend hours faffing about than spend $100 on a kit! Besides, I learnt something new.