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About bikerpet

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    2017 Beta 300

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  1. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how the ePure (particularly the Race, but they look to share the same structure) clutch and primary reduction is laid out? From the pics I can find it looks as if the clutch is on the motor output shaft, before the reduction? Is it a wet clutch? If it's wet then it would be interesting to see how they've dealt with input and output from the clutch. Is the primary reduction still belt? And they talk about adjustable flywheel - do they have a flywheel in there somewhere now, or weights that go on the clutch or motor? They certainly look like they've stepped up a level with the Race.
  2. I had a 40 year lay-off from trials bikes (all motorbikes actually) and was no great shakes back then either. I then got back into it 2 years ago. Now a few years off 60. Started on a '07 250 GasGas, then a '13 290 Sherco and now a '17 Beta 300. I ride C grade (one up from Clubman in Oz), thinking I might have a dabble at B grade and see if I can not embarrass myself too much. I suppose I'd describe myself as always willing to challenge my abilities, but with a solid aversion to hurting myself. Moving from the 250 to the 290 was noticeable but not much of a step. I found it easier to ride a lot of things because it lugged at low revs a bit better when I got it wrong. Moving to the 300 was way more noticeable. I was a bit nervous moving to a 300 and wondered if it was a sensible move, but as you say there's a lot of good deals to be found in that category. It feels like it's got almost the same acceleration from stall as it has when it's singing. Grabbing a handful of throttle close to stall and it would take off. I'm not sure I've used full throttle for more than a second or two in the past 60 hours on it, and that would have been on open fire-road climbs purely to see what it felt like! Definitely earned my respect! That said ... After say 10-20 hours on it I came to love that low down torque. It's just so forgiving of rolling off the throttle a bit early or being too cautious to hit something a bit harder, I can chug it along and when I twist the throttle it just picks up and responds, no fuss or bother. It's almost stall proof! I rarely use first gear, it's lower than either of the other two bikes - good for tight turny sections only - I can't imagine gearing it any lower! I know some people gear the Beta lower, then completely forget 1st and use 2nd and up. I find stock 2nd good for just about anything with a bit of clutch. Starting takes a definite jump on the lever (I'm 70kg), but my bike starts and idles first kick, no choke, no throttle every time so it's not a big deal. As was said, someone at my level doesn't need a 300, but I'd have to say that it feels a bit like cheating riding it, and I'm happy to rely on superior machinery to make up for inferior skills. So my thoughts are: It's definitely got a lot more "scare" bottled up inside than a smaller bike when things go bad. However if you're reasonably decent with the clutch then there's a pretty reliable get-out-of-gaol card. If you can get comfortable with the 300 then it actually makes riding easier I reckon - it feels to me that you need more skill to make a smaller bike really work. I also know (and can well understand it) that for some people the power of a 300 is simply a handicap - it can be scary how quick it accelerates, but for me once I got used to that and got some confidence that I could grab a handful of clutch and everything settled down, then that extra low down torque just makes everything easier. I've still got both the GasGas & the Sherco but when I hop on them now they feel harder to ride than the Beta. Everyone tends to suggest having a ride on one, but my experience is mixed about that - a 15 minute ride left me thinking, "Wow, that thing can bite", but after a some hours I became quite comfortable (it seemed too good a deal to pass up at the time, so I got it despite that first experience). If you can get a good deal I'd say go for it, but if it doesn't feel right after a good few hours on it, sell it on and get something else, I can't imagine really liking it with a heavy flywheel or a slow throttle.
  3. The current disadvantage is that you have to ride wearing a P2 dust mask to keep out some of the smoke. Of course that's if you're not preparing for, defending from or running away from the fires themselves. Or been burnt out.
  4. I have an Airoh TRR that I've used the past couple of years. The linings are easily removable and washable (I put mine in a mesh washing bag and throw it in the machine - maybe 4 machine washes and a couple of hand washes and no sign of damage) The vents work, although in our hot weather (Australia) it's still pretty warm. I can feel the air move when travelling at a bit of speed, but at section speeds I'm not sure I can notice it. I'm confident they do help in some way though. They come with clip on vent covers for wet/cold weather. I've not had any major crashes - a few minor bumps that would certainly have hurt without it. It does seem to be durable and decent quality. I measure 58cm and have an M 57-58 helmet. It's OK. Mine was a little tight new so I removed the ear pads for the first few weeks. Once it had settled in I could replace the pads and re-routed the chin strap to between the pad and the shell and all is well. I'm not sure if the next size up would feel a bit loose or not, possibly I think. Tricky decision. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. Nice and light, fit my head shape quite well. They do seem to be a little on the small side on their sizing. If I could change anything it would be to add more vents like an MTB hemet, but I can't see any helmet passing the motorcycle helmet standards with that amount of venting. I am starting to wear a MTB helmet for practice at home in hot weather - much more pleasant. I suspect a full face MTB helmet would actually provide better protection for much of my trials riding than an open MC helmet, as well as being lighter & cooler. No idea if/what the difference between a TRR and TRR_S is.
  5. The silly moulded plastic brace part of my '17 Beta front mudguard completely failed recently. Deciding it was faster to self-repair rather than get parts in, I designed a 3mm sheet aluminium brace to go into the existing Beta guard. It took 3 revisions to get it close enough to right, but seems good now. I neglected to take photos of the part before mounting it, so here are some mounted. I used a Dremel to cut out the remnants of the plastic brace (I was unimpressed how thin the plastic was at the joint to the white guard). Took a bit of adjustment of the design to get the angles correct so the back of the guard clears the exhaust/radiator correctly. I can upload a PDF of the flat pattern and bend angles if anyone is interested - it's on my other PC. If I did another I'd add a little metal to keep the brake hose a bit closer to the fork - minor but would be an improvement. I'd also use just two M4 bolts to mount the guard - the 3 x M5 was a hangover from my first version brace, still need to get some button head screws to improve appearances. All in all a very simple part to make.
  6. I'm cautiously optimistic that my guards are loose enough that they would just rotate in that sort of crash, much as it sounds your levers did. I dropped the bike awkwardly yesterday and lever and guard both rotated way down with no damage. I suspect the guards did no good, but they did no harm either.
  7. That's interesting. I went to a Sherco 290 from a GasGas 250 - I didn't find it a big step at all and certainly never considered trying to "tame" it. When I went to a Beta 300 from the Sherco the 300 definitely inspired considerable respect! A far bigger jump than 250 to 290. After a couple of weeks I came to terms with the 300, but certainly still give it a healthy level of respect!
  8. I run full loop style bark busters (chinese copies off ebay) with all the extra plastic cut off so they are just a thin strip (nicely colour coordinated of course) 😁. They don't look too bad IMHO. I tend to have a go at things I'm not sure I can achieve, so do throw the bike away a bit. After busting a couple of levers (well in on the bars and loose enough to rotate easily with one hand) I went to guards. Haven't broken or bent a lever since. Also haven't had a single instance of the throttle getting stuck open from the grip augering into the ground. Possibly there's an increased risk of broken wrists, but I spent a fair bit of time looking for actual reports of them before going down this path and there weren't that many in the scheme of things, and certainly many more of people with smashed fingers without guards. All these where from reasonably high speed crashes from what I could see. I've had a few tree impacts (riding trials, not trail riding or singletrack) where the guards have saved me from more pain. Wrists are definitely a significant consideration, but I'm not convinced it's any more likely than the potential injury from the end of a lever itself (I've taken a rider to hospital after the end of a lever (complete with ball end) pierced her thigh down to the femur - surgery and several days in hospital). The thought of bilateral fractured wrists is not a nice one, but I'm not convinced the guards actually present such a big increase to that compared to just launching yourself into the ground off a motorbike. Maybe I'll decide otherwise in future. To each their own assessment. I set my guards so they are fairly tight, but I can still rotate them with a good firm pull. They sit slightly below the level of the levers so they're as far out of the way as I can get whilst still protecting the levers. My theory is that in at least some situations they should rotate on the bars before my wrist breaks if it does go through the loop. Plenty of chance for that not to work, but it's a degree of safety. Certainly in the roughly 150 hours of riding I've done with them on I've never felt I've come close to getting caught in them. This includes plenty of loop-outs over the back, some pretty ugly over-the-bars and all the general offs in trials. I've snapped one guard in a crash - I'd be surprised if the lever would have survived the impact without it - I think that was a particularly poor quality chinese guard. Cost was similar for a new set of guards or a new lever. I've had numerous crashes where I was well convinced the guards had saved my levers. The other guards (we've currently got 3 trials bikes here with them on) are bent but not broken. I reckon I'm financially well ahead. Personally I can't tell the difference in the steering with or without, possibly just because I'm old, if not fat 👨‍🦳😄
  9. One that came to me after a lot of very mediocre attempts and watching lots of video is the clutch timing for Zaps. I used to think the clutch came out as you started the "jump" movement up and forward, I never got much pop. It finally clicked that there are two parts to the "jump" movement - forward, then up in an L shape and that the clutch timing coincides with the up. Letting the clutch out later, as the "up" begins, made a huge difference to the lift I get. I now think of it as a four step process: pop front wheel up toward obstacle compress/drop down & back, and at the same time twist the throttle. Somewhere around 2 & 3 the front wheel contacts the obstacle. pull your hips/body forward to get yourself moving toward where the bike is shortly going to go. Hold the clutch in through this step. start jumping up, drop the clutch and close the throttle. I'm still working on getting myself to really extend up and let the bars come back to my hips, but I think that's the next step in the progression.
  10. I had ridden my new (to me) 2017 Evo about half an hour before I put the first (very small) crack in the rear fender from a relatively minor off - and that was with my modifications which undoubtedly saved it from worse. So I'm not overly convinced they are quite onto the right plastic formulation/design. My long experience as a professional skier has also taught me that it's the intermediate level people who cause the most damage to equipment and self - they have the skills to get into trouble, but not the skills to do so gracefully! I suspect it's the same in trials. Someone like me is probably far more likely to "test" durability than someone like you @lineaway 😁 And I try to ride every day, with about 50% success rate I guess. I'll strive to do better!
  11. I like the velcro concept. 3M do a "Dual Lock" velcro - both sides are mushroom top stiff fibres, it's a bit more positive than normal velcro. Sells as Scotch brand Extreme Fastener on hardware stores here in Oz. I might give that a try. VELCRO EDIT: I got hold of some Dual Lock and tried it on the guard - fail. Despite this stuff being much more secure than regular velcro it was still a long way from strong enough. There's a fair bit of leverage at the back of the guard, I could pop it off with one finger. I modified my duct tape mudguard "lip" yesterday after reading some of the comments here, made it a lot more of a hook like the original, with some tags to enable me to pull it over the back of the airbox. Looks like it should work pretty well to keep muck out, but also let the guard unclip easily. - although it seems the clear filter cover is doing it's job pretty well anyway, Now just waiting for some reticulated foam (aquarium filter foam was the cheapest I can find) to seal off the front end of the filter box as per the SSDT prep doc. Next in line will be a GasGas fork brace to replace the silly fractured integral plastic Beta one. Plastic is obviously a new and unfamiliar material in Italy!
  12. I did a similar modification to @Sir Real Ed I found I could use the regular rear mounting holes for the cable ties if I trimmed a little of the sealing foam from below the RH hole, put a kink in the tip of the tie and it feeds through easily. It's a bit hard to see in Ed's photo if you've trimmed the whole hook section (pic below), or just the ends? It looked to me like the hook would hold on too tight, so I trimmed the hook section pretty much right off and put on a Gorilla tape flap to stop muck flicking past. I also made a rough copy of the Trick Bits clear airfilter cover out of an old folder cover to keep a bit more dirt out of the filter if/when it does get past. I did away with the airbox lid screw and just use clear tape to hold it on. I heated the bottom of the screw hole so I could form a dome in the plastic to fit over the bolt head below - if I ever want to use the original bolts again I can. Although this has saved the guard at least once already (fell sideways onto a log, broke both cable ties, sent the airbox lid flying, and twisted the guard way out of shape), I still think the front bolts are a bit too secure - I've ordered M6 x 12 pan head nylon screws through Ebay, hopefully if things go really pear shaped the entire guard will come off before it breaks. My next step is to work out how to make magnetic catches for it. I made some of these for my Sherco and they worked really well. When the guard gets pulled off it automatically reattaches itself as soon as the pressure is released, nothing breaks, nothing to carry or replace. It's nice not having a floppy guard, but I'd rather more flexibility and less fragility!
  13. Thanks everyone. Sounds like I might just leave it for now, see how it all goes and maybe fit one if/when the plastic impeller fails. Although it seems getting rid of the plastic one wouldn't be such a bad idea - it would be a complete pain to have that fail far from home or in the middle of an event.
  14. Thanks. What sort of temperature was it? I ride up to around 100F After that I reckon it's too hot to bother riding. I've read one report where the poster said removing the radiator guard and using mesh dropped water temp appreciably - maybe that's the simpler solution if it does become an issue, just pop the louvres off before any long hard climbs.
  15. I've recently bought a low hour 2017 Evo 300. Pretty happy with the purchase. Currently the weather is mild and I don't see any particular issue, but moving into summer I'm wondering if it's worth fitting the Costa Special Parts hi flow water pump for 40 UK quid? I've read a couple of posts where people have commented that they think the bike tends to run a bit hot and the CSP pump keeps it cooler. Not sure if it's actually an issue or not. Where I ride it's fairly hilly with climbs of 1000' on fairly steep terrain being not uncommon. I mostly play around on obstacles, but do go for singletrack rides sometimes and travel about on forestry roads and steep firebreaks a bit to get to different areas. Our summer temps climb into high 30's / low 40's (celsius). I'm planning keeping the bike for a fair time so want to make it last as best I can. Anyone have any comments on the standard cooling system in hot weather and long climbs, or their experience with the CSP pump?
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