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  1. As Lineaway also said, the roll-up in it's various forms covers 90%+ of what most people ride. Certainly this is what Neil reinforces in the online coaching. There's a recent short Pat Smage video, "Just Hit it With the Front Wheel, It'll Go" - if that's somewhere close to the limits of the zap then I can't see myself ever being limited! That's a bigger obstacle than I'm likely to tackle any time soon. I've seen what I think you're referring to as Ryan's "bucking bronco" technique. I'd have to say it seems a bit left field to me, I don't see too many people actually using it at any level of competition. I've assumed it was a bit of an exercise to develop some skill or other rather than a technique to be honed and used - apparently not.
  2. I don't quite follow that. If the roll-up covers 90%, and the RSG roll-up covers 98% of obstacles, why would you learn a double blip as the basic move to get over something? Why not just learn roll-ups and then get good at them? A roll-up also includes touching the front wheel on the way up or clearing the front wheel, so you can always start to learn wheel placement accuracy and timing via the roll-up, preferably with RSG so the lift is done with clutch more than throttle. Personally my experience is that my zaps improved out of sight once I got the double blip out of the picture and concentrated on getting RSG throttle/clutch/timing sorted out better. I think dbl blip actually confused the issue by encouraging the front wheel to land too high for a good zap and relying too much on throttle, not developing clutch/throttle timing enough.
  3. Yes, I tend to agree a little about the weekly videos, a fair bit of friendly conversation in there. I think (guessing) they are primarily aimed at people who use Neil's face-to-face or online coaching, certainly they come across best when you've watched a series of them and you start to see the common threads. RSG is just a gem I reckon - it's amazing how hard it is to be absolutely accurate with it, but as it gets better so much else comes along with it. As you say, filming yourself and editing it down for delivery is of itself really valuable I've found. Sometimes I end up not even posting it for Neil to comment on because by the time I've watched it a few times and scrolled back and forth I can see what I need to do anyway! But when I do post something then inevitably the response is clear, simple and usually comes back to building basic skills. The other big advantage of the online thing you've also alluded to - it's delivered consistently over an extended time, and you can always go back and look at previous comments and guidance. Being able to do that helps avoid the issue of latching onto just one thing and forgetting the rest.
  4. I don't think you've really seen his coaching if you say he skips a lot of the finer parts. I don't have much experience with face-to-face coaching because there just isn't any available anywhere near me, but comparing to the little I have had and the many hours of online stuff I've looked at he goes into far more detail without adding unnecessary clutter. The idea of "going into a higher gear and attacking hard and true" is absolutely the opposite of what Neil tries to develop. Yes, sometimes you need some speed and power, no question, but it's always better to use the minimum that gets the job done effectively. Why do you say skipping the double blip is bad? A reasonably modern bike can just ride (by driving the back wheel into it, with good technique) over anything you'd use a double blip over, with less complication and probably carrying less speed if you've already learned how to use a few revs and the clutch. Effectively a double blip in the end is just driving the rear wheel into the obstacle, there's no real lift generated. So why add in the first blip? Of course some of this comes back to that old nut, the definition of a double blip - does it use the clutch or not, or doesn't it matter? I seem to recall you saying something along the lines of the double blip being a hold over from the days of twinshocks and with no need on modern bikes? As for learning to hop before learning to turn, Neil certainly shares your view. But I'm still trying to learn to hop, probably to his frustration :-). Not because I think I need it, but purely because it seems a fun thing to be able to do - I ride for fun and get to an occasional event along the way.
  5. Just sharing something that has helped me incredibly much over roughly the past year. I'm just a happy user. Neil Price is an Australian Expert level rider, 18 times West Aust. champion, 2x Aust Champ, has competed in Europe and World rounds and all round nice fella. He has been coaching trials for decades and is a real thinker - always considering the detail that makes things work. A year or so ago Neil started a Facebook online coaching group which proved the concept had wings. Six months ago (+/-) he launched a dedicated online platform - quite similar to most social media platforms - Feed, Chat, Likes, Comments, Notifications, Hashtags etc. but also "groups" & sections for various "libraries" of information. This is a paid subscription service. Within the platform Neil posts all sorts of info - demo videos, monthly challenges, training plans etc. Members can also post video and ask for feedback and pointers, which Neil responds to individually. All in all a pretty good platform. Neil has a somewhat different take on how to build and use techniques than anyone else I've seen online - it's so refreshing! Simple, easy to understand and builds really solid foundations for every type of manoeuvre. Some of the building blocks he uses are: Static balance figure 8's building turning skills, clutch & throttle RSG - this is such a good tool. Rev, Squat, Go. He uses this from very early on to build fundamental throttle, clutch and timing, and builds on it as rider skill increases. It is the basic building block for the next 3. Ride technique - literally riding the back wheel up an obstacle. Doesn't matter if the front wheel hits, touches or clears the obstacle, if the back wheel drives up the face it's "Ride". Punch - pretty much what commonly gets called Zap or Jap Zap Splat - probably needs no explanation here. That's it, simple. Notable is the absence of double blip. For a whole bunch of reasons he just doesn't teach it or talk about it. I can't say enough good things about Neil's coaching! As someone turning 60 this year, and who really only started riding dirt bikes a few years ago (I rode a bit 45 years ago, but then a looong break) I am staggered how far my riding has come in the past year with Neil. Progress that unquestionably would have been impossible without consistent professional coaching. Where I live that just isn't going to happen if it's not online! If you want to see Neil in (coaching) action go to YouTube Trials and Enduro Skills where Neil does a weekly live show. https://www.neilprice.com/signup/xqistX
  6. I've got a 2020 EVO 300 with about 200 hours on it, always had an inline fuel filter and air filter cleaned and oiled frequently. Recently I started having an issue with it getting an erratic idle. It seemed like the idle would rise after a long hard climb (say 500m to 1km). It would also rise on long descents. Performance otherwise was just fine, nice crisp response over the whole throttle/rev range. I removed the carb and thoroughly cleaned (including removing the jet tower) and blew out all orifices, checked vents, checked float height and needle sealing. Also checked that fuel is not overflowing when the front is raised (lifted wheel ever higher until it overflowed). Problem remained pretty much the same. Finally I realised that the rise in idle on descent particularly was due to running out of fuel in the tank. I tend to climb ever higher as I ride, then return back down at the end of the ride. Possibly my rides were getting a little longer, and also as my riding improves I'm using more power/revving harder and spending more time with the front in the air. This would somewhat explain the increase in fuel usage, but it doesn't feel like it fully explains it. In the past I've monitored fuel usage over a number of tanks and it averaged a bit over 1.1L per hour. Yesterday I started to monitor current use and it came in around 1.8L/hour. This seems a fairly big jump (60%), but I've no idea if it's in the range that is "normal". Certainly it's getting annoying having to cut my rides short so I can get back home again - yesterday I ran out on main, switched to reserve and headed home - ran out as I pulled into the shed. I was only about 2km or so from home when I went to reserve. Does anyone else have any figures for their EVO 300 fuel consumption?
  7. You probably weighed around 5 times what your bike weighed and the pedal was much closer to the ground than a trials bike foot peg, so there is an immense difference in the magnitude and location of the forces involved. I'd need to weigh around 350kg to get a similar mass relationship to my bike, and drop the foot pegs to within a few inches of the ground to have a similar mechanical relationship. I dare say it might be possible to pick up a trials bike from the ground like that, but I imagine you'd be standing on the spokes or tyre and be heaving both hands on the upper handlebar grip to do it! There's probably a video of someone doing it on YouTube if you looked hard enough!
  8. My 2020 has the brake pivot setup as shown. The lever is right up against the frame. Works fine. My 2017 was the same from memory.
  9. Agree it's most likely HDPE, which can be fairly easily heat welded. A hot air gun is best, but you want a very small jet which most household guns can't provide without overheating. If looks aren't a serious consideration an old soldering iron will do the job (after plastic welding the tip will be nigh on useless for soldering). If you take your time you can usually get a moderately good finish - a little bit of judicious sanding can clean it up further, although it's not going to look "factory". Just gradually work some plastic in from the surrounding area until the hole closes. If you can trim a bit of excess plastic from elsewhere on the box it can be used as a bit of filler. Can help to have something as a backing while welding.
  10. Have you thought about taking up basket weaving? :-)
  11. Here's my 2c worth. As previously mentioned, start with a brick or something for the front edge of the front wheel to nudge onto, or a wall if you're really having trouble - it'll save so much on-off-on-off and you'll progress faster. Put a crate or something next to the bike so you don't have to step down to the ground - you'll not get so worn out doing step training, so can practice longer. As you've picked up, knees out, elbows out, shoulders more or less parallel to the bars. I'd also suggest keep your head up, but some people find it easier looking down, some forward. If you can balance with your head somewhat erect you'll probably find it easier to learn to hop later. Both brakes locked. You can play with brakes off once you've got some decent basic skills. Front wheel not quite to full lock - you want a bit of steering movement. This isn't what most people say, but spend time with it before discounting it. Use small turns of the bars to correct - this is important and often seems to be neglected when people talk about balancing. With front brake locked you can also tilt the bike L & R which will roll the front wheel under the bike, moving the base you are balancing on. Both turning the bars and tipping the bike are ways to move the base - like balancing an umbrella standing on your hand. This is what you really balance with most of the time - as you said, Newton gets a solid say in what happens if you try to move your body one way or other. If your weight is more forward you'll get more response from your corrections, if you are more rear you'll be more stable but harder to correct imbalance. Practice both. Most people spend too much time forward biased. Practice turning from one lock to the other and staying balanced. There's no point standing balanced on full lock if you can't straighten up and make the bike go where you need to go next! The leg-out move is a bit of a mixed bag. It can really help and is definitely useful - especially if you can't afford to turn the bars much (riding along a skinny log perhaps). Waving your leg in the air is moving a whole lot of weight around which is itself going to make balancing harder. For what it's worth, the leg goes out as a counterbalance, to the side you are falling away from, but good luck doing it consciously at first! It'll sneak up on you For those coming from bicycle track stands, the big difference is that you're not going to move a 70kg moto around like your 9kg pushy! On a pushy we often balance with tiny little rolls back and forth. You also only need tiny little movements to move the bike quite a lot. On a moto you need bigger movements to get the bike to move, and you're not going to be rolling it on it's wheels. The bigger movements and slower reactions make it hard to transfer bicycle trackstand to the moto - it's a matter of timing. Once you "get it" then your trackstand skills suddenly start to payoff. Hope that helps in some way.
  12. I'd suggest looking at some of the MTB vests. I've been using a Troy Lee Designs 7850HW short sleeve protector for several years. It's light, flexible, covers the shoulders and not too warm being designed for people who pedal at least some of the time. The 7855 has long sleeve protection if you want. They aren't the cheapest bit of foam you'll find, but they do seem to work well. I've had numerous "offs" that would have resulted in significant pain and bruising without this and got away pretty much unscathed. I've also had a couple of falls onto objects that have managed to get between the pads and hurt, but it's all a compromise. I've also been using Dainese MTB knee pads for years - they stay put, give good protection and have lasted pretty well. I'll probably replace the elastic and the behind-the-knee mesh soon, but the pads themselves are going strong.
  13. It would be interesting to know how much difference your fins make. Most thermal conductivity stuff I've read makes a pretty big deal about getting really good contact between the surfaces - clean metal to metal, dead flat surfaces, conductive pastes where there is any chance of air gaps .... Obviously something has to do more than nothing but I'm not sure those fins would achieve a great deal. Do you have any before and after figures for the sort of temps you get? I'm not sure that the e-clutch will make any difference to the throttle lag on your MTB. It's just a second throttle, nothing more or less. The only difference is that the main throttle is 'normally open' while the "clutch" is 'normally closed'. Unless the lag is your ability to twist the throttle fast enough, which I very much doubt, then it's inherent in the controller. You could put an instantaneous switch as the throttle and it would make no difference to the delay. If you are trying to achieve a power chop rather than a power hit, maybe it might work. Or you might be able to hook onto the brake cutoff signal wire if it has one? Or some people have resorted to just chopping the main power with a contactor, although some controllers might not like that much. That is very likely exactly why Oset has gone with a brushed motor - they can get instant response without spending a lot of money on a fast brushless controller. If you want instant response on your MTB you probably need to get a new controller. If you haven't seen it, https://endless-sphere.com/ is well worth spending some time on (you might need a lot of time, there is so much info in there).
  14. I use a Troy Lee Designs MTB padded vest for that same reason. I like that it gives all around protection, not just back. My rib bruises have been on the front/side rather than back. It also covers the shoulders so I hope it gives a bit of protection against shoulder and clavicle injuries. It's very light, and ventilated so not too hot. It seems from this thread that there isn't any particularly common specific injury, which is probably encouraging.
  15. I just had a quick look at the Oset wiring diagram (if in doubt read the b****y instructions). There is a temp sensor in the motor that feeds back to the controller, which in turn shuts down the output if the motor gets hot. So there's little risk that the motor is getting damaged in any significant way. There is also an Oset Technical Bulletin which says the sensor has had some failures on some 2017 bikes, is not needed and can be safely disconnected. I leave it to you to find, read and decide if you want to act on it. I don't know that I'd consider a bit of extra brush wear "much more" damage. Brushes wear - faster if they are are worked harder. Brushes are also cheap and usually pretty straightforward to replace. Not such a big deal I'd have thought. I don't know how often Oset owners have to replace brushes? Also it may not be the motor that is overheating, it could be the controller. In which case there is probably little if any damage occurring anywhere. If it's the controller then presumably it's a self-protection function kicking in. Just an annoyance. Try adding some cooling to the controller (more/better heatsinking or a small fan perhaps?). My understanding is that the main issue with excessive heat in any motor is The winding insulation breaks down Magnets can be demagnetised by excess heat, particularly when combined with high currents. Solder joints can melt Brushless motors also have electronic components within the casing (hall effect sensors), these can be damaged by excessive heat. So bottom line is that too much heat is bad for any motor, I'm not sure it makes a great deal of difference if it's brushed or brushless in the real world.
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