lemur

That's what I meant by loosen everything.

Loosen everything and bring it back into alignment then torque everything back down, odds are there is less damage then you think. Bracket is important in that, you only have a spring in one fork leg, so the only thing keeping the spring side and dampening side lower fork legs moving in unison is the strength of the axle and that fender brace. Align and tighten the fender brace last.

Air rises where I live, so first I push the brake pads all the way open forcing most of the fluid back up into the reservoir where I drain it off with a large syringe, then I push fresh DOT4 UP through the brake calliper bleed screw and into the reservoir, then I pump up the brakes to bring there pads back in contact with the disc and fill the reservoir to the prescribed level. Your old fluid will be discoloured compared to the fresh fluid. Same syringe process works for bleeding a hydraulic clutch.

... water content in old brake fluid will boil when the brake becomes hot with use creating the worlds tinniest steam engine inside your hydraulics, it will work right up until the brakes gets hot enough to boil the water creating air bubbles in your brake system which is bad.

That's easy; it doesn't take oil it uses brake fluid which absorbs water out of the atmosphere turning your brake fluid into something very toxic nasty. You need to do what is called a flush of the old brake fluid and replace it with fresh fluid without introducing any air into the hydraulic system. After that you will know if you require new rubber parts in the brake master cylinder or not.

Engine was a CZ attempt but soon will be professionally converted to a TY175 engine 😎

How much did that ride cost? If the dealer doesn't have a replacement float needle and seat which might not even be the problem, I think I would be inquiring about a replacement complete carburetor. It's only the most common carburetor on any current modern 2-stroke trials motorcycle.

It's also there for the benefit of your minders fingers. Competition rules may even require the safety guards be in place if you are competing in a sanctioned event. see: FIM Trial Technical Rule 41.04 ... if you are riding in winter they become a problem with ice buildup and I remove the guard seasonally, but studded tires are crazy dangerous so only crazy people would ride or catch studded tire bikes in winter.

Tried one of the slab back protectors and don't like it, replaced it with a Troy Lee Designs back and chest vest which is way better 👍 Thinking about purchasing a second Troy Lee vest in a different model to wear over the first one so they cover any missing areas. Nothing is cheap to buy any more. ... model is a UPV something

Ignition timing is usually slightly advance to TDC typically 10 to 20 degrees before and the black box is what alters the spark advance more if the engine even has that feature, it might not. I found a parts manual online for that bike no problem no luck with a service manual. Faulty bottom end seals destroy the engines intake vacuum more then anything else (symptoms would be poor compression test, hard starting and not a crisp pop pop pop sound on the engine). Your CDI trigger coil should show some resistance, more resistance than the primary ignition coils typically have. The clearance distance between the stator coils and the flywheel magnets should be as small as possible for the best spark intensity. One of those coils is likely for ignition and the other is for lights or horn. Only way I know of to test the black box 100% is to have a second working bike and swap parts to troubleshoot.

I think you are stuck with raising the peg profile or lowering the lever profile aka bending it. The levers do bend before braking, I have a badly bent one on one of my TRS now.

🤔 By repackaging something simple and selling it like something special ? Yep, shop at your local farm supply where people buy oil by the pail and get the same stuff or better at a fraction of the cost, then you can retire the rich guy that lives in his own trials area 👍

Found 08C35-HTX-740 in stock and available from Acura dealers 👍 it's only $144.60 CDN 🤣 that's a lot for happy.

I can order ELF HTX 740 as a Honda original part or special order it from somewhere that won't ship it here anyway and would cost me about 70$ per litre 🤔 do you think SJ grade oil is worth 70$ per litre? You don't pay that for oil bottled in France on your side of the ocean but you still pay exorbitant prices for simple oil that only needs to last several hours before being replaced. Sorry but I pay 10$ per litre for oil that works just fine because it gets changed frequently which is why I don't have clutch problems.

It's only 6 times the cost of what I've used for 20 years. I recommend frequent fresh oil changes with oil that states it is good for wet clutch applications.