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About mcman56

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Evo 300 4t, TY175

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  • Location
    N California
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  1. mcman56

    2014 evo 250 4 t

    I'm not sure if it is the same gearing, but I went from an 11 tooth to a 10 on a 2016 300 4t. I think it made slow tight turns with clutch slipping easier. It was also less abrupt when letting out the clutch. The bike picks up less speed when going over a series of obstacles close together. I tried a 9 tooth and it made tight turns even easier but killed some of the snap used to get over obstacles.
  2. The cam chain has an automatic tensioner.
  3. I know someone who had the same kind of failure. He suspects that the sprocket bolts got loose and led to the failure so was extra careful with reassembly using good, bolts, washer, thread locker, etc. It sounds like lacing those rims is no easy task.
  4. Timing issue could be flywheel that was not located properly when installed after rebuild. Kick back is generally advanced timing.
  5. These guys have base gaskets and may have head gaskets. IIRC, the head gasket is o rings that you may be able to source locally. If gaskets are in good shape, it is possible to reuse but probably not recommended. https://trialssuperstore.com/products/beta-techno-base-gasket More techno parts https://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=91&sort=20a&page=4&zenid=cfaa76cb7fc85861dcb71200c4442b65
  6. I have a beta 4t and it does not tolerate bogging down like a 2t. (Too much load at too low an rpm). A pop and stall is the usual result but sometimes just a stall. If I try, I can even bog it down in 5th gear and get it to do it. I just have to avoid dropping the rpm too low when letting out the clutch
  7. Do you get a "pop" and stall or just a quiet stall?
  8. mcman56

    compression test

    I have tested several trials bikes and have always gotten something around 155 psi, maybe +/- 5. It would be good if you had some way to check the accuracy of your gauge...or test another bike for comparison because the gauge could be off..
  9. What year is the Rev 3? I had a 2008 that did not have designed in advance. If you put a timing light on it, you would see maybe 5 degrees but all no advance ignitions will show that. An aftermarket company sells a coil/ CDI combo for that bike and I have one as a spare even though I do not have the bike. I tried it on the bike and it ran the same. At one time I had a 1997 Techno and is showed about 21 degrees of advance. https://www.electrostator.com/en/trial/5680-cdi-beta-125-rev-3-200-rev-3-250-rev-3-270-rev-3.html FWIW, I now have a 2001 Rev 3. I purchased a flywheel weight that was said to come from a techno and it bolts right on. It says Ducati right on the weight but I don't remember what is says on the flywheel.
  10. mcman56

    Kick start

    Not the same bike but an extra 1 mm base gasket added to a 270 Beta made it noticeably easier to kick. The side effect was a slightly softer response. It is inexpensive, easy to do and reversible.
  11. Nice video. Where can you get the rebuild parts?
  12. mcman56

    Sumpguard Helicoils

    I have had that issue at least twice. Each time, the threads that hold the helicoil were damaged and attempts to replace it with a new helicoil failed to hold. I used an E-Z-LOC to repair. See link. There are a number of companies that make things like this but if I recall correctly this was the only one that would fit. The others had a larger OD and there is not enough material in the frame to go much larger. I'm now very careful to keep bolts into helicoils tight so they do not get a chance to move around a create damage. https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Threaded-Insert-M8x1-25mm/dp/B00208KRQ2
  13. I made a tool by putting a couple of dowel pins at the right distance in a bar of 1/4" aluminium. The cap was pretty loose so maybe even a pair of needle nose pliers would work.
  14. I agree with pschrauber on riding style, particularly for an older rider probably set in his ways. Not that it has the same capability but I actually find the TY175 easier to ride than a modern bike for a couple of reasons. First, on a modern bike I'm frequently using both brakes, clutch and throttle. My TY175 is geared so low that there is engine braking and almost all control is throttle only. Brakes are needed for steep down hills. I find the clutch to be kind of grabby so stick mostly to clutch out riding. With throttle only riding, there is just one variable to control. This is easier mentally and physically. Second, on a modern bike I can use all of those controls plus force on the bars to sort of force the bike through full lock turns. With thumb arthritis and some forearm issues, this can beat me up a bit. If I try and force the TY like that, I can not keep the front end from washing out so have learned not to. I put much less force in the bars and have even learned to lighten my grip on a modern bike so it is easier on my body. This is not to say others can not force the front end and I would expect modified frames to allow that but this is just my experience as an average rider on a stock frame geometry bike. Being so short, the TY will turn as tight as a modern bike except maybe when you need to stop mid turn. Several people tell me that they can turn sharper on a TY175 than a modern bike. The power is so soft that is easier to avoid little power surges that tend to push the front wheel wide when doing tight turns on a modern bike. With just 4" of suspension travel, the rear suspension is quite a bit more harsh which can beat you up a bit on a loop and sharp obstacles. I would like to give a TY125 4 stroke a try. Would a Bultaco weigh more like 98 kg?
  15. TY175 is almost as light as a modern bike. They start very easily and are easy to ride.
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