mcman56

A 10 tooth sprocket does several things. It primarily helps those of us who are less skilled with the clutch. You can go slower with the clutch out so it requires less clutch work. If you do a series of very close obstacles requiring a burst of throttle, it is easier to keep your speed down. (think - log, log, log) If the throttle does get away from you, the bike runs out of rpm sooner so is less likely to squirt out from under you. A 9 is even better for these things but made it harder to get over larger obstacles so not desirable. It felt like it took away the bikes reach.

I have a faint memory of shaving off some material from the area where the adjustment screw goes through the brake pedal on my 2008 Rev3. It did not take much. This was needed to get the pedal to sit lower. In my experience Rev3s have very nice rear brakes so yours must have an issue. I have had two Rev3s and two Evos. The Rev3 rear brake is highly superior to the Evo brake. The Evo brake will work if you stomp on it but is quite weak and has very little feel.

That is a nice picture. It looks like it has less ground clearance than standard trials bikes. Is the correct? The ground clearance looks a bit like a TL250 which I think is one or 1.5 inches less that most bikes.

I use Simple Green on everything. "has a mildly alkaline pH of 8.5 to 9.5." Can that corrode anodize? I have not seen this on other bikes.

There is some kind of white residue primarily on the front wheel of my 2018. It looks sort of like mineral deposits from where water dried. Detergent, Isopropyl alcohol and acetone do not remove it. A carnauba cleaner wax removes some but is way too much work for old hands. The rag with cleaner turns black so maybe it is some kind of oxidation. Is there an easy way to remove it?

Here is a bad picture of the rear brake on a 2001 Rev3. If I recall correctly it did not match the front caliper. It did work very very well.

I had that issue with a vintage bike. It looked like it unseated in the area of the rim weld. The weld did not look that bad but I took a file and smoothed it out as much as I could. That eliminated the issue.

If the bores are oval, you can have them machined to take modern Teflon coated bushings, or bronze. But, it would be much easier to find a replacement.

Is the difference just he tank and seat? I would like the trials model in most any condition. If you remove the seat and install the trails tank is then the same as the trails model? Are the tanks available?

I would like to give a Scorpa TY125 trials a try but they are very difficult to find in the US. Is it easy to convert the long ride version? There are a few of them. What are the differences?

Sewing machine could be a good description of the soft powerband. That can be an advantage for novices or those of us with low skill sets. Has anyone ever tried a non vacuum carb on one? I had a Tiger 800 that actually sounded like a sewing machine at highway speeds

I have not been on a 260 but currently ride a Beta 300 4t and a 2018 Montesa 300. I find the Beta much easier to ride. The Montesa has much quicker engine response and initially can be a real handful to ride. It took me a long time to get comfortable on it and I still greatly prefer the Beta. I have been told that many people prefer the 260 for that reason. I did have a Beta 300 2t in the past and it had smooth power delivery in the lower rpm range. However, it really took off after the middle of the rpm range. If it was that upper rpm surge you did not like, you may really like the Beta 4t. The power curve feels quite flat and even fluffy on top compared to the 2t. You can be much less precise with the throttle. NOTE: I have the standard muffler. I have heard that the factory muffler or an aftermarket muffler can really enhance the power. The tech fork on the Montesa is quite nice and it has a much better rear brake than the Beta.

You can start by cleaning the carburetor and making sure it is seated in the manifold properly. If a 2009 has the hot start button, check for leaks.

I find that Forma has the same wide fit as Gaerne but are much stiffer. Once broken in Gaerne boots feel like bedroom slippers. The Forma soles are much more durable and do not get chewed up by the foot pegs either. They are slightly taller if that makes a difference. I tried on Alpinstars but the fit was way too narrow.