mcman56

Did the ISO 46 change the clutch action? I started with the recommended oil but am now running Dexron VI. The Dexron changed the clutch action a bit and I had to adapt my clutch timing. It is difficult to tell but I think it engages later but quicker plus it removed a little drag. It must be a little thinner in the operating temperature range. A more progressive engagement would likely be better for me. I'm wondering if Dex/ Merc would be slightly thicker.

When initially changing from a 14 Beta 300 2t factory to a 16 Beta 300 4t, I struggled with full lock turns. The 4t felt a bit abrupt just when the throttle slide lifted so it tended to push the front wheel. It took a while to adapt. The 2t was fairly smooth up to mid range when it started to produce lots of power I did not need and it could get me in trouble. By comparison, the 4t felt fluffy on top. I later moved on to an 18 300 4rt. I was told the Beta 4t and a 300 4rt were very similar but it was not my experience. (also rubbish rider) The Beta had a much softer throttle response in the lower rev ranges so required less precise throttle control. This could be good or bad depending on your taste. Probably because of the softer response, it hooked up quite a bit better in low traction situations. I can't quantify but the 4rt feels bigger which could be a plus or minus based on your size. I believe it is about 7 pounds heavier. The 4rt frame feels much more rigid and transfers more shock through the handlebars. At 70, I have had surgeries on both hands plus forearm problems so am very sensitive to the shock forces. It is not the fork tuning as the Tech fork is quite plush. I ended up making rubber handlebar mounts to compensate, like CRF250. I like low idle speeds so the higher idle of the 4rt is annoying. The quietness of the Beta is nice. Initially, the 4rt felt like a real handful and it took me about 10 hours to get comfortable on it . Maintenance wise, the Beta 4t carb is much more difficult to get out compares to the Evo 2t carbs. Then, you almost have to drop the Beta engine to get to the valves. Valve adjustment access is infinitely easier on the 4rt. Oil changes are much more difficult on the 4rt. Oil filter access requires removing an engine side cover. It has separate engine and transmission oils. The recommended 4rt trans oil is $50 per liter. The 4rt rear brake is much better than the Evo rear brake.

High strength 3 mm alloy pins are available. However, when you strengthen the weakest link, the next weakest link can break. Could you have an alignment issue? https://www.mcmaster.com/products/dowel-pins/dowel-pins-1~~/dowel-pins-3~performance~high-strength-2/ It is interesting that these guys sell different style transmission and shifting parts. There must be a reason. Although the parts list shows the pin diameter as 2.9. The Hell TeamPARTS BY BRAND Jotagas PartsJotagas Parts - PARTS BY BRAND Jotagas Parts

A 10 tooth sprocket does several things. It primarily helps those of us who are less skilled with the clutch. You can go slower with the clutch out so it requires less clutch work. If you do a series of very close obstacles requiring a burst of throttle, it is easier to keep your speed down. (think - log, log, log) If the throttle does get away from you, the bike runs out of rpm sooner so is less likely to squirt out from under you. A 9 is even better for these things but made it harder to get over larger obstacles so not desirable. It felt like it took away the bikes reach.

I have a faint memory of shaving off some material from the area where the adjustment screw goes through the brake pedal on my 2008 Rev3. It did not take much. This was needed to get the pedal to sit lower. In my experience Rev3s have very nice rear brakes so yours must have an issue. I have had two Rev3s and two Evos. The Rev3 rear brake is highly superior to the Evo brake. The Evo brake will work if you stomp on it but is quite weak and has very little feel.

That is a nice picture. It looks like it has less ground clearance than standard trials bikes. Is the correct? The ground clearance looks a bit like a TL250 which I think is one or 1.5 inches less that most bikes.

I use Simple Green on everything. "has a mildly alkaline pH of 8.5 to 9.5." Can that corrode anodize? I have not seen this on other bikes.

There is some kind of white residue primarily on the front wheel of my 2018. It looks sort of like mineral deposits from where water dried. Detergent, Isopropyl alcohol and acetone do not remove it. A carnauba cleaner wax removes some but is way too much work for old hands. The rag with cleaner turns black so maybe it is some kind of oxidation. Is there an easy way to remove it?

Here is a bad picture of the rear brake on a 2001 Rev3. If I recall correctly it did not match the front caliper. It did work very very well.

I had that issue with a vintage bike. It looked like it unseated in the area of the rim weld. The weld did not look that bad but I took a file and smoothed it out as much as I could. That eliminated the issue.

If the bores are oval, you can have them machined to take modern Teflon coated bushings, or bronze. But, it would be much easier to find a replacement.

Is the difference just he tank and seat? I would like the trials model in most any condition. If you remove the seat and install the trails tank is then the same as the trails model? Are the tanks available?

I would like to give a Scorpa TY125 trials a try but they are very difficult to find in the US. Is it easy to convert the long ride version? There are a few of them. What are the differences?

Sewing machine could be a good description of the soft powerband. That can be an advantage for novices or those of us with low skill sets. Has anyone ever tried a non vacuum carb on one? I had a Tiger 800 that actually sounded like a sewing machine at highway speeds

I have not been on a 260 but currently ride a Beta 300 4t and a 2018 Montesa 300. I find the Beta much easier to ride. The Montesa has much quicker engine response and initially can be a real handful to ride. It took me a long time to get comfortable on it and I still greatly prefer the Beta. I have been told that many people prefer the 260 for that reason. I did have a Beta 300 2t in the past and it had smooth power delivery in the lower rpm range. However, it really took off after the middle of the rpm range. If it was that upper rpm surge you did not like, you may really like the Beta 4t. The power curve feels quite flat and even fluffy on top compared to the 2t. You can be much less precise with the throttle. NOTE: I have the standard muffler. I have heard that the factory muffler or an aftermarket muffler can really enhance the power. The tech fork on the Montesa is quite nice and it has a much better rear brake than the Beta.