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mcman56

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  1. I'll spend some time with the parts lists. Thanks
  2. Are you saying that all of the DT covers will require a longer kickstart shaft length?
  3. https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn <a href="https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/2ZDsYbL/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg" alt="TY-vs-96-RT100-cover" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hYPZ1qn/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg" alt="TY-vs-96-RT100-cover" border="0"></a> [url=https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn][img]https://i.ibb.co/2ZDsYbL/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://ibb.co/hYPZ1qn][img]https://i.ibb.co/hYPZ1qn/TY-vs-96-RT100-cover.jpg[/img][/url] Do picture links not work directly anymore?
  4. Is the 52500 marked clutch cover the only one that will fit a TY175? I found that the same gasket fits a RT100 so bought one off of Ebay but it is about 10 mm wider. It is also 10 mm wider at the kick shaft area so would at least require a longer kick shaft. https://ibb.co/f2vnmJ6
  5. TL250 are 33 mm so maybe bored out TL250 clamps. I'm having problems with pictures but have links. https://ibb.co/B2ghdCr https://ibb.co/0hRRdgX https://ibb.co/8Nt1NCk
  6. How do you remove the seal under the bolt at the bottom of the fork? Do you need to replace if it looks OK? I currently have 2 sets of forks. One set has what looks like a red fiber washers in place but they do not want to move almost like they are glued on place. I don't know if both sides sealed or not. The second set looks like it has copper washers on top of the red fiber washers. Both sides of this did seal.
  7. What type of sleeve was used? Was it a pressed in or loctited bronze bush? Bicycle bushes look like modern split motorcycle fork bushes. They may fit but are probably 1 mm thick at max and would need some kind of metal retainer.
  8. I did some more investigation. One fork moved pretty well without oil and spring but when checked over full length had 0.030" run out. The other side would stick intermittently and the tube was 0.006 TIR. It must have been the one with the cavitation feel and has a pretty nasty gouge inside the slider near the top. I can't even imagine how it got there, maybe previous owner maintenance. It is not an interference fit because the tube can at times slide freely through. It feels more like like the right combination of oil and air in the gouge creates a vacuum and sort of attaches tube to fork leg. Have you ever fixed anything like this? I found some 30 mm bushes but suspect the fork leg would be very challenging to set up on a lathe. https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Bushing-02-05-Duke-30mm/dp/B001CK0LTM/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=UqY3c&content-id=amzn1.sym.8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_p=8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_r=7DAET5N6F5TCJWQKNRW9&pd_rd_wg=ab5En&pd_rd_r=65ff88f9-e798-4544-bed9-97c475955d64&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi Picture is attached but not that great as the site is only allowing me 18.46 kb. Seems odd.
  9. It is interesting that you mentioned polishing because I did a quite bit of that. When I got the bike there were quite a large number of deep gouges and burrs on the tubes so the seals would not seal. I filed burrs, filled big gouges with epoxy, filed and polished smooth. I don't remember the sand paper roughness but they look pretty shiny. It was done in a lathe. The entire fork action felt very stiff until I went to the thinnest oil I could find. After that I just felt stiction. Is there a way to reproduce the original ground finish? With the right paper it seems like you could create something like the honing finish in a bore. Are all old forks likely to have issues? I'm a little tempted to buy new tubes but hate to do that and find no change. I may try straightening. The yokes have a machined surface on the bottom that looks perpendicular to the bores. They sit flat on a surface plate so are straight. The fork brace is not perfect but seems close. Is there a way to get a perfect fit? Pushing on the assembled forks off the bike seems OK. If anything, I may feel a little uneven damping sort of like cavitation of the oil at times. That makes no sense to me. I'll try without springs and oil.
  10. I pulled them apart and measured straightness. Do you know how straight they need to be to perform OK? I turned them on V blocks with the lower legs still installed. One tube is 0.020 inch TIR and the other is 0.006 inch TIR. The axle itself is 0.015 inch TIR. I wonder what other 45 year old bikes are like.
  11. mcman56

    80's silencers

    I don't know how it would fit but FMF makes a very nice universal muffler in 2 sizes. The smallest has a 1 1/8" ID. I put one on a TY175 and it really quieted it down plus seems to have given it more power. I like a quiet bike and could not stand riding the TY with OEM muffler. The muffler could be shortened to fit. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/fmf-universal-2-stroke-turbinecore-silencer
  12. I did the opposite and ran a VM 26 from a Beta Rev3 on a BSA C15 but had to do a lot of jetting changes including the needle. The REV3 jetting should be close but I'm not sure what needle it used. Some carbs had different atomizers depending on 2t or 4t but I'm not sure about the VM. This may help. .
  13. I have a 270 beta that was hard to kick and very sharp off the bottom. In addition to the standard 0.5 mm base gasket, I added a 1.0 mm base gasket. The bike is noticeably softer off the bottom but I would not call the difference huge. It is also easier to kick. Swapping base gaskets is pretty easy to do and easily reversible. At some point in time, head spacers were sold for the same reason and should be even easier to install but probably unavailable.
  14. Is the plug wet or dry? If it was sitting, I would recommend complete carb clean plus fresh gas. Check that air filter looks OK. With spark plug removed and grounded, check for spark when kicking. When running properly, most of these bikes like to start cold with full choke and no throttle. If the plug is dry, you could try laying the bike on its side with fuel tap open until some gas runs out of the carb. If there is a fuel shortage, that should get it primed so then give it a number of kicks. You may need some throttle here. If it starts and runs for a little but then dies, it reinforces the need for a carb clean. If plug is wet, you can try some kicking with petcock off, choke off and throttle wide open to clear.
  15. I'm not sure if this helps but there is an aftermarket CDI/ coil available for some years, 2003 to 2008. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-270-rev-3-cdi-unit I had one as a spare on a 2008 Rev 3 200. It ran the same as the OEM ignition. The bike is gone but I still have the spare. The web site list the same part number for 200, 250 & 270. https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2003-2008-beta-200-rev-3-cdi-unit Another source https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD13201
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