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mcman56

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  1. mcman56

    Fork Oil Change

    https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2008 Rev 125-270 2 stroke owners manual.pdf Be sure to drain the cartridge. After filling, be sure to then pump the air out of the cartridge.
  2. The TL250 has an external grease fitting for a the clutch actuator on the left side cover. This does not look like a standard grease fitting and the standard tool does not fit. See picture. How do you fill it? I thought about threading in a standard fitting but it would stick out farther and would be easy to tear off.
  3. Maybe these guys can help. . http://www.ajpamerica.com/calipers.html
  4. mcman56

    Beta 300 4rt

    I have been thinking about a slower turn throttle and have heard the newer Beta 4ts come with a slower throttle. Do you know how the Amal 80/200 compares to that? I would just like to smooth out the initial opening of the throttle....if that is possible. When doing tight turns, the initial cracking of the throttle can be abrupt. This is particularly a problem when going back and forth from 2t to 4t. On that same note, how does the 4rt compare in that situation where you just barely open the throttle? Do they really have no engine braking? Does that make it easier to go back and forth from 2t to 4t? But....don't they require a high idle speed?
  5. I have had some success bonding to plastics like PE and PP with a product called marine goop. Goop is the brand and marine is the flavor.
  6. Thanks for the info but how can you be sure to get a Taiwanese version? Do you run a 22 mm or 24 mm? Did you find a spigot mount carb or adapt a flange mount type? How did you adapt? Sorry for so many questions but it seems difficult to find something that will fit with the stock air box.
  7. Details state that OKOs do not work with stock air box
  8. Does anyone have experience with the Chinese Keihin copies of 22 and/ or 24 mm size for TLR200s or similar? Is there a brand to recommend? I'm looking for something to run on a TL250 with stock air box. Most other carbs are bigger.
  9. This is also a TL250. Out of curiosity, what carb do you run on your TL250? This bike came to me with no carb and there do not seem to be any great options. OEM is not available. OKO is larger and does not seem to fit with stock air box. I often ride in very dusty condition so really want to keep the stock air box. I have a Mikuni VM and Delorto 26 mm but they are also pretty long plus have large entrance mouths like the OKO. China reproductions of an original Keihin 22 are 24 are available but I wonder how they work. I would also have to adapt from flange to spigot mount but that is doable.
  10. I have an old aluminium gas tank that looks like it was not used for many years. I poured out some stinky gas, filled with fresh gas and shook it periodical for a couple of weeks to clean it out. After draining and drying, I can see sort of a layer of solidified gas lining some of the bottom. The petcock must have had a slow leak because it is covered with what looks more like dried tree sap than dried gas. Are there any solvents that will remove this? A non hazardous one would be nice but not required. I can also see that there are a couple of pin holes close together. Has anyone had luck with using epoxy to spot treat pin holes?
  11. A flywheel weight really helps slow down the engine response. I believe all UK bikes come with them but someone may have taken it off. Pull the cover and take a look. They look like the picture below and are mounted to the outside of the flywheel. Also take a look at how many teeth are on your front sprocket. It is counter intuitive but lower gearing (less teeth on the front) slows response by reducing the transition from clutch in to clutch out. The bike will go slower in first gear. Lower gearing also makes it harder for the bike to totally get away from you because it will run out of rpms before too long. Many Betas come with an 11 tooth front. I ended up with a 10 but a 9 is even better for the situation you describe. A 9 kills come of the response to get over an obstacle but that may be exactly what you want plus you can always use 2nd gear. Front sprockets are also cheap. I also agree on comparison with another bike.
  12. Looking at self etching primers, none show as heat resistant to go with engine paints. On top of that, engine paints seem desirable due to resistance to fuel. Are there any specific recommendations?
  13. This is an interesting comment. I also noticed some odd looking rust on the bottom frame rails that were probably under the skid plate. The rust is protruding up from the surface, sort of like crystals growing on the surface. There is not much but it does look odd. I was planning to remove rust and paint this area. Other areas of the frame just look a little rusted and similar to what is found on other bikes this age. Are you suggesting that the frame should be totally rust free? The skid plate is also steel and will get cleaned and painted.
  14. This is an interesting comment. I also noticed some odd looking rust on the bottom frame rails that were probably under the skid plate. The rust is protruding up from the surface, sort of like crystals growing on the surface. There is not much but it does look odd. I was planning to remove rust and paint this area. Other areas of the frame just look a little rusted and similar to what is found on other bikes this age. Are you suggesting that the frame should be totally rust free? The skid plate is also steel and will get cleaned and painted.
  15. I have a 76 TL250 with pretty severe pitting on the outside of both magnesium engine side covers. They are structurally sound and this is not a restoration so I'm not concerned with a cosmetic repair. However, I would like to prevent further corrosion. For better or worse, they are both now bead blasted clean. This is an air cooled bike but must have spent some time parked near water. I'm in a mostly dry climate so there should be no significant moisture exposure. Some on line sources say that Alodine or some other "conversion" prep is needed first to prevent corrosion. Other sources say that Alodine will actually promote corrosion in magnesium and make it so paint will not adhere well. These chemicals do not seem readily available or cost effective plus can be hazardous so are not desirable. I do think I saw some gold tint on a cover when blasting but if it was Alodine, it did not help the original finish. All sources seem to agree on a self etch primer but it looks like these are mostly lacquer based except maybe the Rustoleum brand. They also come in different colors like green and gray which must signify some difference. Is one better than another for this purpose? I plan to top coat with some enamel roughly matching the original Honda paint color. Does anyone have experience with something like this?
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