tony27

1 small detail I've noticed & would change is to put the wiring along the back of the downtube instead of along the side to protect it from rocks etc, fairly certain the loop just below the tank is for the clutch cable I've had several bikes that leaked oil at the front exhaust joint, a small bead of high temperature silicon left for 30 minutes or so before assembly seems to work well

Still the same bike you rode in the 90s Roger? Can't say I knew where the TY350 & JT35 I rode in the mid to late 90s ended up after I sold them as they never appeared to come out to trials

Most of the bike is shared with the 2 stroke models, worth looking on splatshop's site to see what is available. Sherco is very good at making improvements to parts & continuing with the same part number if it interchanges 2005 was the first model 320 from memory & it was far from sorted, I can remember the importer at the time here in New Zealand having the engine die a lot when hopping the front wheel. The later carb mods improved that as well as hot starting

If it's like most steel framed bikes the bolt should fit into what is called a nut clip at the back end of the tank, should be easy to get. Sounds like there is something missing in your kickstart assembly https://www.splatshop.co.uk/m6-nut-clip.html

Rev3 Beta & from memory early Jotagas

KX80 carb by chance? A JJH needle available from any trials dealer is a good start

I can't see it, they seem to be trying to sort a European/Spanish world championship rumored to run into January at the moment which they'll use as being able to justify the cost

I have am electrexworld ignition in my 250C, works well & easy fit but you're best to set the timing with a strobe light as per there instructions. 1 thing I did find was that the hole in the centre of the stator plate didn't clear the seal housing & I've had to have some minor turning done to correct this, did a 3 day event with it before I had the chance to sort that including checking the timing & it was great apart from some pinking climbing hills between sections due to being over advanced

Yes, this is the way that they fit inside the gearbox shaft Have a look at this link, part #18 in the illustration is the ball that sits on the end of the pushrod & can fall out when #10 is removed https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1974/ty250a/clutch

There was a TS400, pretty sure they was a huge range of sizes from 50/75cc up to 400cc with the 250 being the basis of the RL250 motor

As long as you get the proper o-rings they should seal properly without needing anything extra

John Cane at tytrials sell a complete kit for the swingarm for when the pin & bush rust together, I think B&J Racing in the states should also be able to help.

TY is the better bike, the RL is lighter in the front end & frames are known to crack around the swingarm plates. Parts for the TY are also easier to get

If the forks are tech brand then going off splatshop's listing the thread will be M18x1.5, the older Paioli forks used M17x1.5

Maximum fork diameter of 38mm means fiddle forks are allowed, what diameter were the last of the Fantic & spanish twinshock forks? My TY250 works really well with all the parts majesty yamaha sells for the forks now that I have had the top of the sliders bushed to get rid of the wear, rear suspension is laid forward to majesty specs & running a set of rebuilt Fox-shox trials shocks, swingarm has also been lengthened 1 1/2". Quite an enjoyable bike to ride & still looks period