tony27

What I've done with both my Jarvis & the TY is use the Dellorto threaded adjuster which screws into the OKO carb top perfectly & a Sherco cable for a Keihin carb as I use a modern throttle, it does run a slightly different route to the standard carb due to the cable coming out on a curve rather than straight up. Hopefully we can find some time to build the new airbox over the next month or so & I can get some decent testing done

Don't have it fitted yet as the plan is to make a more modern airbox with a short, straight connection to the carb but ran out of time to get it done before the 75th Kaikoura 3 day this weekend so I'm still running the standard carb with the modified airbox Looking forward to finishing everything up & getting some testing done in the next couple of months I've run a OKO on my Jarvis Replica for a large number of years, it's a nice carb that works far better than the original Dellorto down low & doesn't seem to overflow as much as Keihin PWKs do. Well worth the money as long as it's a genuine carb & not a chinese knockoff

The installation instructions from mid-atlantic mention needing to soften the up the hose to make it fit the OKO carb, only modification needed to fit the new carb. The mikunis used on the TYs are unique to them, small float bowl & I think the airbox side is smaller than a generic new replacement mikuni measures. There isn't much clearance under the float bowl of the OKO but they fit straight in the cylinder side manifold so it's really only the airbox side that is different Your original hose will have shrunk as well as hardened with age, the clauss studios hose fits perfectly with the standard carb etc so I think it should be able to fit the OKO with the boiling water treatment

It will probably be a good idea to get new airbox connector from clauss studios for the OKO carb, the bellmouth is bigger so you need to expand the rubber to fit & your original has probably gone hard with age & no amount of hot water will make it pliable enough to stretch to fit without splitting I have the 28mm for mine but the plan is to remake the airbox with a straight hose & modern air filter in the lid design to get rid of all the restrictions

Can't remember what the number ended up being but they're on the the reed block in the 175 now. The 6TR108 look more correct, seem to come up as fitting Fantic on Italian sites

In the US I'd contact Bob Grinder of B&J racing, he's the TY guru

The sealant does suggest a problem there, possible that a new manifold would help. Is the dealer refunding you or going to sort the issue for you & give the bike back when it's running properly?

Normally when I bleed both the front brake & clutch I just jiggle the lever & let the air exit back to the master cylinder, takes time but you'd be surprised at how effective it is. Remember that the air wants to rise to the highest point It's not possible that you folded part of the seal over when fitting the piston?

Only noise I've ever had in that area was from the rubber dampers in the clutch going hard & shrinking from old age, rebuilt & quiet again If it's definitely a gear noise I'd suspect the kickstart idler gear

Watched 2 rims that weren't perfect get sealed using a mountain bike product that looked like thick sellotape last week & it definitely worked, didn't expect it to work when I saw the corrosion in the groove for the rim tape

I have a flanged Akront to fit to my TY250 as soon as I can find someone who can make me M4 spokes to match, already have the lefthand thread short spokes that attach to the rim. Pressure loss should be very minimal even on your type of rim, my Sherco can sit for a month without going flat, that is with the later integrated valve stem type tape

Is that still Ducati Electronica ignition of Leonelli? Have a look through the manuals pinned at the top, I'd set the stator back to standard position to start with & see if that helps. Splatshop has the readings for Leonelli stators on their site Check the condition of the o-rings in the carb, if damaged they'll throw the jetting out

RD350 reed block is the same as TY250, material does need to be removed from intake to fit it, have done it to a friends 175 when I fitted a v-force reed block in my 250. From memory using the RD350 inlet rubber puts the carb central to the reed block which the 175 rubber isn't so it's probably the first step to make

According to the part number of C130 for both this is what you need, part number has changed Splat Shop - Sherco Coolant Hose for Thermostat - Radiator Exhaust and Airbox - Sherco

I'd replace the thermoswitch, should come with the rubber gasket & retaining clip. You shouldn't be able to dislodge the switch unless something is wrong/missing This is what should come with the switch Splat Shop - In Line Thermostat - Sherco 2001>2009, GasGas 1994>2004 - Radiator Exhaust and Airbox - Sherco