tony27

You're not the only 1 with the same problem, I see Royal Mail's website is saying they've had a cyber attack but it's certainly taking a long time for them to get sorted out again

250 will probably be easier to get rod & top end parts as the 350s were sold in less places. I could be wrong but the 250 pinky that was sold into the 90s shared a lot of parts with the front end being the main difference Cambs trial centre in the UK are a good source of mono parts & have had certain parts remanufactured

99 is red & branded as a Bultaco with Sherco as the model name, 2000 is blue & the first year of the Jarvis replica & 290 being available, also last year of the licensing agreement of the Bultaco name. Some of the first year bikes were said to have spun the main bearings but I never had that problem, the motor was a lot smaller physically than the other brands bikes at the time which contributed to the light for the time weight, it was reckoned than when I moved from a Gas Gas JT35 to the Bultaco that it was around 10kg saving The good thing with Sherco is they replaced parts with upgraded pieces while keeping the same part number for example the waterpump shaft for the mid 2000 bikes fits the 99s etc with the old part no longer available. Easy to change between 250 & 290 engine size, requires piston, barrel & head to be changed & nothing else - even the jetting is the same, it looks like 2011 was when the routing of the water changed so any 2010 & earlier model top end will fit Probably the biggest concern is ignition parts as they were Ducati Electronica which may not be easy to get if need although Splatshop does show the coil/CDI as available. Plastics may also be harder to get now Overall they're a reliable bike that are as good as anything else of the time

Reed cage for the TY250 are the same part fitted to RD350s

The cover is meant to just clip in place, close the throttle & fit the cable with the last piece to go in being the outer casing into the housing. Test that the cable is working properly before refitting the cover

I doubt MX tyres will fit most trials swingarms & aren't tubeless like trials specific tyres, in most trials situations they won't grip as well either due to shape & sidewall stiffness I find it interesting how in the regs it says nominal maximum size of 100/100, at least 1 of the modern tyres is labeled 120/100 on the sidewall which I'm guessing has to be with how the manufacturers measure their tyres, different brands of MX tyres vary hugely in width, a 100/90 is the same width as a 120/90 as 1 is measured across the case & the other across the knobs

Solid bronze bush, couldn't find a modern type bush available in 34mm

Had the top of my 250 forks sleeved, previously they'd been worn enough that you can feel movement & fork seals didn't last for long. A steady was used to keep the top running true during machining, I think the fork tubes were fitted at full compression for clocking up the 4 jaw chuck then removed

Think franceclassictrial are still selling magicals stuff, have the majesty damper rods, magicals springs & fork caps in my forks & they work well, better than mono forks from what a friend with a 175 majesty says after riding both back to back

It can be a right pain to get the thread lined up in the bracket, the rectifier tab sits between the bracket & the frame which is what makes it hard

Rode a twinshock event in the weekend that 1 of the guys had his first ride on his converted TF125 which is a farmbike that is called a mudbug over here. For a first ride it went really well although he's realised building a airbox may be better for the carburation than the pod filter fitted at the moment I'll have to save a photo of it & post it up for comparison

I've had 1 of these for a few years now, perfect fit Yamaha TY250 1974 - 1977 Air Boot Joint Rubber (claussstudios.com)

Disconnect the fan switch & use a short piece of wire with the right connections to bypass the thermoswitch, if the fan runs as soon as the bike starts then the thermoswitch needs replacing The smoke is possibly from a leaking head gasket from lack of fan, check the coolant level in your radiator & if it's not above the top of the fins then that's a pretty good indication of a leaking head gasket Doing the head gasket is simple as long as the head is still flat, remove the nuts holding the head down & replace all the o-rings on the underside of the head

I have Electrexworld systems in my 2 CZ race bikes which have the same coil/cdi unit so I was able to take resistance readings from the stators on them, larger connection read as 343ohm, smaller as 0.5ohm on the working ignitions. The dead 1 was open circuit on the big connection Looked at who would be able to rewind the coil over here & the only place that does indicated at price of roughly $560 which suggests they didn't really want to do it. Ordered the pro version ignition from Rex's speed shop & it was shipped the same day, great service & saved around $100 over a rewind. Hopefully see it late next week

Kaikoura in the south island of New Zealand, this will be the 76th year it's run. In 2013 they ran a 6 day event with the last 3 days being run as a seperate event for those who didn't ride the first 3. Don't know how many times I've done it now but the last few have been on the TY instead of my Sherco Can't fault Rex's service, ordered Monday NZ time & had a tracking number emailed overnight, already left the UK so it looks to be a fairly good chance that I'll get a test ride in before leaving