tony27

Disconnect the fan switch & use a short piece of wire with the right connections to bypass the thermoswitch, if the fan runs as soon as the bike starts then the thermoswitch needs replacing The smoke is possibly from a leaking head gasket from lack of fan, check the coolant level in your radiator & if it's not above the top of the fins then that's a pretty good indication of a leaking head gasket Doing the head gasket is simple as long as the head is still flat, remove the nuts holding the head down & replace all the o-rings on the underside of the head

I have Electrexworld systems in my 2 CZ race bikes which have the same coil/cdi unit so I was able to take resistance readings from the stators on them, larger connection read as 343ohm, smaller as 0.5ohm on the working ignitions. The dead 1 was open circuit on the big connection Looked at who would be able to rewind the coil over here & the only place that does indicated at price of roughly $560 which suggests they didn't really want to do it. Ordered the pro version ignition from Rex's speed shop & it was shipped the same day, great service & saved around $100 over a rewind. Hopefully see it late next week

Kaikoura in the south island of New Zealand, this will be the 76th year it's run. In 2013 they ran a 6 day event with the last 3 days being run as a seperate event for those who didn't ride the first 3. Don't know how many times I've done it now but the last few have been on the TY instead of my Sherco Can't fault Rex's service, ordered Monday NZ time & had a tracking number emailed overnight, already left the UK so it looks to be a fairly good chance that I'll get a test ride in before leaving

After finding out it was going to cost $575 to get the coil rewound the decision was made to buy the dual map system from Rex's speed shop as delivered it is over $100 cheaper & the coils are available off the shelf from them. Hoping it arrives before I leave for the 3 day trial at the start of June

Very hard to contact when you're on the other side of the world. Show the stator plate as out of stock & don't list the coil seperately

There won't be any issues with interference if you have the housing that has been standard on most trials bikes for probably 30+ years, that's what I use on my TY250 Funny you have electrical problems, I'm trying to sort the electrexworld ignition in the TY at the moment, stopped while idling as I waited at a section & also has no spark after giving no signs of trouble. Will be trying a different CDI/coil unit tomorrow but I'm pretty sure it will be the stator, think I may end up having to order a complete new system from another manufacturer to get it sorted in time for a 3 day event at the start of June

Yes, goes in quite easy then just make sure the retaining clip is over the thermoswitch fully & fit the wires

Doesn't give any readings that I could find

My TY250C with electrexworld ignition stopped while idling waiting for the guy ahead of me to ride a section, no spark including after disconnecting killswitch & removing plug cap My friend has the 1 of their ignitions in his 175 & looking at the parts list for both kits the cdi/coil unit are the same for both so we can substitute to eliminate that, can't find any information on testing the stator though Can anyone point me in the direction of how to test the various components so I can order whatever has failed

It will, Beta & Sherco use the same friction plates & that's why both suffer from the problem. The glue holding the friction material often fills in the gaps between the pads & traps the cold oil between the plates causing them to stick together

Definitely Beta but we had a few to try & couldn't remember which 1 it was, used the 1 which had the best shape for the 250

Splatshop list the switch as fitting Sherco & Scorpa 2010 on, Gas Gas factory 2013 on & all other Gas Gas from 2014, they're normally pretty good at knowing which parts are interchangeable & will often recommend using whichever brands parts are cheapest

That's designed to be held by a bolt into the end of the shaft, won't stay on the TY without modification. Not sure what my lever is off but it's a fairly short aluminium lever with folding tip

Wonder if it's a different supplier

If you're doing the seals check the main bearings for play, not a huge job to replace them if you already have the top end off. Hopefully by now they will have been upgraded to the sealed bearings When you do the top end remove the head & barrel as a unit, no need to take the head off & will save you needing new o-rings Crank seals can be done with the motor assembled apart from the primary drive, bearings involve splitting the cases but it's not a big job. Personally I'd do everything at once then you know the condition of the motor & you're only talking 1 more gasket & 2 bearings. Doing the waterpump bearing, seals & checking shaft condition is also a smart job to do