tony27

Maximum fork diameter of 38mm means fiddle forks are allowed, what diameter were the last of the Fantic & spanish twinshock forks? My TY250 works really well with all the parts majesty yamaha sells for the forks now that I have had the top of the sliders bushed to get rid of the wear, rear suspension is laid forward to majesty specs & running a set of rebuilt Fox-shox trials shocks, swingarm has also been lengthened 1 1/2". Quite an enjoyable bike to ride & still looks period

Sherco updates parts & keeps the same part number if the parts are interchangeable, very possible that the radius at the bottom of the tube was a change made between when the replacement tube was made & your original tube was made

As long it's a genuine Oko & not a chinese knock off it's as good as a keihin, my experience with the 1 on my sherco is that they aren't as sensitive to weather changes

Often if both plugs actually fired it was because the head design was not the best. My CZ race bike ran twin plugs standard, only 1 was connected to the points & the second plug fired just after. Combustion chamber is a trench at the back of the cylinder on both 250 & open class machines

Being a 270 the Beta may be a bit much powerwise but you'd need to have a decent ride on it to find out. The Mont has the reputation of being really hard to find traction for a lot of riders, you really need to try both bikes to find which is easier to live with. I'd steer clear of the 300 if you're a returning rider who has been away for a number of years although the price difference for a 8 year newer bike would be worth it. See if you can find a similar 250

Lucky you didn't try petert's idea as you'd probably only be pushing on the bottoming cone & not the damper rod that sits inside it

Try loosening the front axle & tighten it back up while holding the brake on, that will centre the brake to the hub Best braking out of your drum involves having the shoes turned to the exact size of the drum, normally easier to do with new shoes

Leave the advanced DVD until you've mastered everything from the other DVD

If you're meaning where the ruler is sat then the only way is to replace the top tubes with new ones that go in a straight line from the front of the shock mounts instead of running parallel before angling in to the front If you're a competent welder it shouldn't be too hard but you'll need to add a temporary brace to the lower tubes to keep the shock mounts in the right position

Stalling on descents & wet plug would suggest too high a float height. Try starting it with the fuel off with a dry plug & no choke

Another option is Electrexworld, I use their ignitions on my TY250C which uses the original flywheel & my CZ race bikes

Ash, Person you need to talk to is John Lawton in Paraparaumu, send me a pm & I'll give you his details

Modified a set of standard top yokes which puts the bars midway between the steering stem nut & the fork tops, improved the steering by a lot on my 250. Steering head angle had been altered in 99 to match a 99 Beta so this bike goes exactly where it is pointed Lots of other stuff done to lose weight & improve the riding experience

No bigger than a 250, peak power numbers will be lower than you're used to but that doesn't tell the whole story. The bigger bore bikes have more bottom end but they become a handful once you start to get tired

Send me a PM Bernie, I have a new stator like that from memory that I could possibly send to you to try when I get back from the Gold Coast next week