Jump to content

tony27

Site Supporter
  • Content Count

    1,475
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c

Profile Information

  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

12,649 profile views
  1. It's a feel thing adjusting taper roller bearings. Adjust them so there is a slight amount of drag with the top yoke off, when everything is tightened back up the wheel should stay pointing straight until given a light push but shouldn't take any real effort to move
  2. Double check the numbers, I suspect they will actually be ST25. Without looking at my bike I don't think there are any numbers on the cylinder & head to give you the engine size, the 250 & 290 share everything but the piston, cylinder & head so the engine number isn't the only a sure indicator of actual size
  3. tony27

    Levers.

    I use those on my CZ vmx bike, only the brake is drilled for span adjustment
  4. To use the DLS brake plate you really need to be using a 80/81 465 brake plate with mono forks otherwise the cable will be at a strange angle to the forks
  5. I have ARC folding levers on my sherco & the span is adjustable independent of the other adjustments using the bolt & locknut near the folding pivot point in visible in this photo. Some of the other folding levers may have the same feature
  6. I've just done the opening up of a TY175 intake to take the original reed block out of my TY250, took a while with a dremel but less metal needed to come out than was needed to get the v-force reed block into the 250 What number reeds fit TY250 twinshocks? Boyesen's website show quite different numbers for 74 & 75 which is incorrect as they should be the same part, I suspect what they have for 75 is actually the mono but I can't confirm that
  7. From what I can see the connection for the killswitch is the type that can be opened & the wire removed without needing to cut anything, just remove the wire & clip the cover back together while you check for spark, you don't need a killswitch fitted until you try starting the bike Another thing to check is that the crimped connections on the wires are actually working which will involve a multimeter when you have the flywheel off, it could be a good time to replace the wires while you're relocating the condenser which will make sure the connections are all good & there isn't a break in a wire Shortening the plug wire isn't a silly idea, looks like you'll have enough left over to have a spare for the future, replace the cap while you're doing that
  8. Going off the number on the piston I would assume it is a wiseco piston, the UK expert in TYs uses wossner which may be lighter. Either way they are lighter than the #311 pistons often listed as fitting TY250s which crash into the crank due to being thicker walled & not tapering up at the edges TY motors don't require any special tools to assemble apart from a clutch basket holder Have you looked at getting another crankshaft off eBay if your's is bent? You're definitely having a bad time with this motor, I didn't even need to do the crank in mine which had sat for years, was still on standard piston & cleaned up to 70.25mm no problem
  9. Theirs was 1 of the locally assembled ones called a NZeta, I seem to remember when they picked it up at a fundraising auction that they used a car battery to get it running & take it for a ride. They were quite a different bike with petrol tank over the front wheel, a spare wheel that fitted either end & the 12v electrics I spent a lot of time on Jawa & CZ bikes when I was younger, they were really well made with a lot of parts sharing between the brands & engine sizes
  10. My parents CZ scooter had that in the early 60s maybe even late 50s but it was quite a bit bigger than the normal generators fitted to their road bikes with the same motor. Electrics have improved hugely since then
  11. I would assume the rusty coil was the 1 at the bottom? That shouldn't be the cause & neither will the dirt at the bottom of the cases. By all means clean everything but I doubt that is your problem Scroll down this link to the readings you should have from the stator, usually 1 of them is a long way out if there is a problem https://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair-exchange-new-style.html
  12. The wasn't a standard airbox fitted when I first got the bike to work on, the A model I could rob parts off if needed had a shrunken, rock hard connection. Once I got a C model airbox I needed a connection & I found the seller on eBay was making them. Their website is www.claussstudios.com well worth a look for rubber parts for other model bikes
  13. I did quite a bit of work with JB Weld to fill in all external signs of the oil pump system on the clutch cover which is why it looks different, needing to repaint the magnesium covers on the C model made it easy to hide. I haven't looked at the part numbers for the oil pumps but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same with only the drive in the cover being different, the gasket for the pump is same so any of the kits should fit
  14. In effect they have changed the gearing the same as if they had fitted a 42tooth rear sprocket, not sure I would have done it the way the have. As said before the 9tooth front sprocket wears the chain quicker & has a shorter lifespan due to the tighter radius the chain goes around
  15. No real damage but you are missing out on bottom end power if it needs repacking
×
×
  • Create New...