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tony27

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Everything posted by tony27

  1. If the forks are tech brand then going off splatshop's listing the thread will be M18x1.5, the older Paioli forks used M17x1.5
  2. tony27

    Twin shock mods

    Maximum fork diameter of 38mm means fiddle forks are allowed, what diameter were the last of the Fantic & spanish twinshock forks? My TY250 works really well with all the parts majesty yamaha sells for the forks now that I have had the top of the sliders bushed to get rid of the wear, rear suspension is laid forward to majesty specs & running a set of rebuilt Fox-shox trials shocks, swingarm has also been lengthened 1 1/2". Quite an enjoyable bike to ride & still looks period
  3. Sherco updates parts & keeps the same part number if the parts are interchangeable, very possible that the radius at the bottom of the tube was a change made between when the replacement tube was made & your original tube was made
  4. tony27

    Ty250r mono 1985

    As long it's a genuine Oko & not a chinese knock off it's as good as a keihin, my experience with the 1 on my sherco is that they aren't as sensitive to weather changes
  5. tony27

    SPARK PLUGS?

    Often if both plugs actually fired it was because the head design was not the best. My CZ race bike ran twin plugs standard, only 1 was connected to the points & the second plug fired just after. Combustion chamber is a trench at the back of the cylinder on both 250 & open class machines
  6. Being a 270 the Beta may be a bit much powerwise but you'd need to have a decent ride on it to find out. The Mont has the reputation of being really hard to find traction for a lot of riders, you really need to try both bikes to find which is easier to live with. I'd steer clear of the 300 if you're a returning rider who has been away for a number of years although the price difference for a 8 year newer bike would be worth it. See if you can find a similar 250
  7. Lucky you didn't try petert's idea as you'd probably only be pushing on the bottoming cone & not the damper rod that sits inside it
  8. Try loosening the front axle & tighten it back up while holding the brake on, that will centre the brake to the hub Best braking out of your drum involves having the shoes turned to the exact size of the drum, normally easier to do with new shoes
  9. Leave the advanced DVD until you've mastered everything from the other DVD
  10. If you're meaning where the ruler is sat then the only way is to replace the top tubes with new ones that go in a straight line from the front of the shock mounts instead of running parallel before angling in to the front If you're a competent welder it shouldn't be too hard but you'll need to add a temporary brace to the lower tubes to keep the shock mounts in the right position
  11. Stalling on descents & wet plug would suggest too high a float height. Try starting it with the fuel off with a dry plug & no choke
  12. Another option is Electrexworld, I use their ignitions on my TY250C which uses the original flywheel & my CZ race bikes
  13. Ash, Person you need to talk to is John Lawton in Paraparaumu, send me a pm & I'll give you his details
  14. Modified a set of standard top yokes which puts the bars midway between the steering stem nut & the fork tops, improved the steering by a lot on my 250. Steering head angle had been altered in 99 to match a 99 Beta so this bike goes exactly where it is pointed Lots of other stuff done to lose weight & improve the riding experience
  15. No bigger than a 250, peak power numbers will be lower than you're used to but that doesn't tell the whole story. The bigger bore bikes have more bottom end but they become a handful once you start to get tired
  16. Send me a PM Bernie, I have a new stator like that from memory that I could possibly send to you to try when I get back from the Gold Coast next week
  17. If you had oil spurting out you've broken into the gearbox which won't affect compression. you may be able to use thread tape as a temporary fix but at some stage you'll need to split the motor & have the end of the offending hole filled up which hopefully shouldn't be a big job for a good welder
  18. That's a real mess Peter, good luck with fixing the tank. I've only ever needed to deal with metal tanks so I'll be interested to see how you get on Have you ever worked with fibreglass before? I'm about to have my first go at doing a fibreglass repair on the inner guard/airbox on the CZ sidepipe mx bike I'm restoring at the moment, I'm glad it's only rebuilding 1 of the mounting sections rather than being cosmetic or sealing a tank like you're doing
  19. The backfire as it died would suggest timing has moved to me, pull the flywheel & check the woodruff key
  20. 250 takes less technique than a 125 due to having a broader powerspread, either would be a big step up on the Scorpa 4 stroke. Can't comment on the difference between the ST & factory
  21. The 250c I ride occasionally had the steering head angle modified around 99 to the same angle as the Beta of the same year by the New Zealand Beta importer's son, we stood both bikes side by side last year which confirmed what we suspected. Even with the newly lengthened swingarm this bike steers really well, as a bonus ground clearance is slightly increased without going to the extent of lifting the motor in the frame like Majesty did Weight is more of a problem on the more common A models than the later bikes with their steel tanks & bulbous aluminium clutch & ignition covers, I haven't looked for the claimed weight difference between an A & C or later bike but the aluminium tank & narrower magnesium sidecovers I would think there would have to be 2kg saved Like everything not every bike suits everyone, what works for me could be totally wrong for you. Once you've decided on how important parts supply is to you it's best to try as many of the remaining options as possible, it's no good buying a bike that is easy to get parts for if you don't get on with it
  22. It's a feel thing adjusting taper roller bearings. Adjust them so there is a slight amount of drag with the top yoke off, when everything is tightened back up the wheel should stay pointing straight until given a light push but shouldn't take any real effort to move
  23. Double check the numbers, I suspect they will actually be ST25. Without looking at my bike I don't think there are any numbers on the cylinder & head to give you the engine size, the 250 & 290 share everything but the piston, cylinder & head so the engine number isn't the only a sure indicator of actual size
  24. tony27

    Levers.

    I use those on my CZ vmx bike, only the brake is drilled for span adjustment
  25. To use the DLS brake plate you really need to be using a 80/81 465 brake plate with mono forks otherwise the cable will be at a strange angle to the forks
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