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misterroy

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    30
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About misterroy

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Bike
    sherco 290 2003

Profile Information

  • Location
    scotland
  1. clutch sticking

    Clutch now functioning as it should, the perils of working on the bike when I should be having a snooze. The washer behind the pressure plate had fallen off without me noticing, causing the slip. It is back in. All is good. Next project is either an exhaust weld, or the fork seals. Thank you all for your help.
  2. clutch sticking

    Yeh, it is not sticking. Boo its slipping. Lightly rubbed the steel disks, fresh oil, the last of the 75w, and I came unstuck. Been spinning around at the house, it is slipping. Enough for today, I will see what it wants to do tomorrow.
  3. clutch sticking

    It has only sticking for the whole two hour ride on Saturday, it was working on Friday night, never stuck before. It would be stuck just about every time I pulled the clutch on Saturday, even after being freed at the previous stop.
  4. clutch sticking

    bought some Putoline Nano Trans GP Transmission Oil, following splatshop recommendation
  5. clutch sticking

    The Service manual says SAE 10W/40, and that is the grade of the Putoline. I am away to dig on the sherco site. ta.
  6. clutch sticking

    The clutch is sticking pretty bad. (If you fix something something else goes). The bike will travel 10 yards after the clutch has been pulled fully, a burst of the throttle may loosen it, so might the front brake. The front brake led to frequent stalls. There is a gear oil leak, think it is from the crankcase, I have been topping up the oil. I have put the bike on its side to take the plates out. I tried the clutch with the cover off and there was a suctiony release clicky noise each time I operated it. I have the clutch plates out and the friction plates average out at 2.56mm thick, the individual one I measured across the friction squares came in at 2.66mm. I had to prise them apart with my nails, they came apart with a click.They seemed stuck to each other with a thin film of oil. New they are about 2.7 mm so they do not look too worn to me. The oil is putoline light gear 75w The steel plates appear flat when tried on glass. The clutch was fine when I went up a hill on Friday Night, but not from the Start till the end of the two hour ride on Saturday. My guess would be the wrong amount of gear oil, any suggestions.
  7. Struggle to start Sherco when it is warm

    Good idea Paul, maybe the other way, there is enough weight behingd the leg, maybe a shorter kick start would reduce the distance my leg has to travel, giving a quicker spin.
  8. Struggle to start Sherco when it is warm

    Adjusted the fuel screw, and today I can mostly kick it. Last night went up a hill no problem in that i did not stall, today the flipping clutch was sticking so there were a few stalls caused by having to react to the clutch. Managed to start without any help from the crew today
  9. Struggle to start Sherco when it is warm

    Once started it is good. Idles OK Crank seal new. Bearings new. Havent tried with the throttle fully open, tried with choke, which is usually how it gets going. I have only tried bump starting it once, the ground was dry enough, it went. Others in the crew can kick it, they have a more powerful kick than me. Cleaning the carb would that mean the fuel is not getting through? If the floats were wrong what would that do? Gonna adjust the carb screws.
  10. Sherco 2014 reved high then cut out

    The woodruff key is only there to align the flywheel during assembly. It is the taper that holds it in place relative to the shaft. You need to lap the flywheel to the shaft. It does not take much to do it. I havent watched this video, but I think it is what you want.
  11. It usually happens going downhill, a misjudgement and I stall the bike. If I can kick it within about 3 seconds it has a good chance of starting, but often I am not in a good position to kick it immediately. If it is getting to ten seconds I might have to wait for it to cool off before I can start it. I know part of the problem is my kick, which is improving, but the amount of muscle in my leg is not what it was. If the bike is cold I put on the choke, push the kick start gently a couple of times to suck some fuel in, then give it a kick to start it. This works for the first start of the day, and will work if I let the bike get cold after stalling while out riding. The gap at the plug is 0.5mm. Anything mechanical I can do to make it start after a stall?
  12. M7 bleed screw forced into M6 caliper

    Hi, I am in the process of fixing up a 2003 sherco and the bleed screw at the rear brake is not the standard 6mm. It looks like a 7mm diameter bleed screw has been used, the small hole at the end of it has been crushed to an oval, and the tip looks knarled. I am struggling to bleed the brake. The assembly was working before the rebuild. How easy would it be to rethread the caliper to take a different bleed screw? thanks
  13. 290 shock identification

    Was told when I bought it it was an 06, just put the number in here,VNBS129TR3A012060 http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivin.exe , and it is an 03 thanks pauls320
  14. 290 shock identification

    Hi, I thing I have a 2006 290 Sherco, the bottom bearing is finished, I ordered one and the new bearing is 26mm OD, the old bearing was 22mm OD. Is this not the original shock? The are no markings on the shock.
  15. big end woe

    Googling may not work for this one, "We dont do Sherco" is the reply from 3 businesses so far.
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