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  1. 2003 sherco 290 I have discovered a helicoil repair on one of the two threaded holes that attaches the exhaust onto the cylinder. This repaired hole can accomodate a 25mm long bolt when the exhaust is in place. The standard size is 20 mm. By drilling in the extra depth could the repair have gone in far enough to reach a port or is the cylinder solid at the front and I have nothing to worry about? The cylinder is off for a replate just now so I cant look to see if this is the reason it threw out the water.
  2. Thanks, but the ones are for a different brake, or will they fit old ajp brakes?
  3. Hi, I bought a piston and seal kit for my AJP inboard rear brake.(2003) I nipped the seal putting the piston in. Is there somewhere I can buy just the seals, as I have new pistons ? thanks
  4. I have come up with a plan "B" .. One of the bolt holes in the top of the exhaust has failed leaving a 6mm hole into the exhaust chamber, currently sealed with liquid metal. I have some 4mm glass fiber rope which should be easy enough to feed into the hole. Its intended use is for sealing a stove. Any thoughts?
  5. I have an 03 sherco and the exhaust needs to be cut open to repack it. Before I start on this task, what damage could I be doing running it in its present, noisy state? thanks
  6. My Kick has got better. My riding has also got a bit less fearful going downhill, so I stall less. I open up the throttle more on the kick. It is no longer a problem three times a trip. It maybe is one time in three trips. If I move to where a rock is holding the bike up and I can put what energy I have into a kick it starts. I blame my kick.
  7. Clutch now functioning as it should, the perils of working on the bike when I should be having a snooze. The washer behind the pressure plate had fallen off without me noticing, causing the slip. It is back in. All is good. Next project is either an exhaust weld, or the fork seals. Thank you all for your help.
  8. Yeh, it is not sticking. Boo its slipping. Lightly rubbed the steel disks, fresh oil, the last of the 75w, and I came unstuck. Been spinning around at the house, it is slipping. Enough for today, I will see what it wants to do tomorrow.
  9. It has only sticking for the whole two hour ride on Saturday, it was working on Friday night, never stuck before. It would be stuck just about every time I pulled the clutch on Saturday, even after being freed at the previous stop.
  10. bought some Putoline Nano Trans GP Transmission Oil, following splatshop recommendation
  11. The Service manual says SAE 10W/40, and that is the grade of the Putoline. I am away to dig on the sherco site. ta.
  12. The clutch is sticking pretty bad. (If you fix something something else goes). The bike will travel 10 yards after the clutch has been pulled fully, a burst of the throttle may loosen it, so might the front brake. The front brake led to frequent stalls. There is a gear oil leak, think it is from the crankcase, I have been topping up the oil. I have put the bike on its side to take the plates out. I tried the clutch with the cover off and there was a suctiony release clicky noise each time I operated it. I have the clutch plates out and the friction plates average out at 2.56mm thick, the individual one I measured across the friction squares came in at 2.66mm. I had to prise them apart with my nails, they came apart with a click.They seemed stuck to each other with a thin film of oil. New they are about 2.7 mm so they do not look too worn to me. The oil is putoline light gear 75w The steel plates appear flat when tried on glass. The clutch was fine when I went up a hill on Friday Night, but not from the Start till the end of the two hour ride on Saturday. My guess would be the wrong amount of gear oil, any suggestions.
  13. Good idea Paul, maybe the other way, there is enough weight behingd the leg, maybe a shorter kick start would reduce the distance my leg has to travel, giving a quicker spin.
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