tony27

My TY250C with electrexworld ignition stopped while idling waiting for the guy ahead of me to ride a section, no spark including after disconnecting killswitch & removing plug cap My friend has the 1 of their ignitions in his 175 & looking at the parts list for both kits the cdi/coil unit are the same for both so we can substitute to eliminate that, can't find any information on testing the stator though Can anyone point me in the direction of how to test the various components so I can order whatever has failed

It will, Beta & Sherco use the same friction plates & that's why both suffer from the problem. The glue holding the friction material often fills in the gaps between the pads & traps the cold oil between the plates causing them to stick together

Definitely Beta but we had a few to try & couldn't remember which 1 it was, used the 1 which had the best shape for the 250

Splatshop list the switch as fitting Sherco & Scorpa 2010 on, Gas Gas factory 2013 on & all other Gas Gas from 2014, they're normally pretty good at knowing which parts are interchangeable & will often recommend using whichever brands parts are cheapest

That's designed to be held by a bolt into the end of the shaft, won't stay on the TY without modification. Not sure what my lever is off but it's a fairly short aluminium lever with folding tip

Wonder if it's a different supplier

If you're doing the seals check the main bearings for play, not a huge job to replace them if you already have the top end off. Hopefully by now they will have been upgraded to the sealed bearings When you do the top end remove the head & barrel as a unit, no need to take the head off & will save you needing new o-rings Crank seals can be done with the motor assembled apart from the primary drive, bearings involve splitting the cases but it's not a big job. Personally I'd do everything at once then you know the condition of the motor & you're only talking 1 more gasket & 2 bearings. Doing the waterpump bearing, seals & checking shaft condition is also a smart job to do

I doubt you'll be able to run a LED headlight from the 2 thin coils, they are what connect to the CDI so they won't be supplying constant power. The only testing I ever did on the CDI in my Suzuki ignition fitted to my 73 CZ380 Mx bike was substitution, testing the primary & pulsar coils are easy but I ended up ditching the system due to lack of spark that I couldn't find the cause of, I suspect a bad connection somewhere

The big coil isn't needed, it's the lighting coil

They're upside down, the flatter side is always down with the external spring at the top

Have heard that Gas Gas has a new bike due out for 2023

You're in Tennessee so you're in the same state as the US's TY guru Bob Grinder at B & J Racing Contact Us (bjracing.com)

That's the reason I ride the 250 which also has relocated pegs & modified top yoke to get the bars in a more modern position, a friend has a 175 Majesty that I find cramped, he's ridden my 250 & he is trying to duplicate the riding position down to spacing out the footpegs by around 25mm on 1 side & 50mm on the other which brings them out to modern widths & makes the bike feel more balanced

Personally at 6 foot tall I'd say the TY175 will be too small for you

Reprinted manuals for heaps of bikes are available from e-classicbike.com , I've had a couple of different manuals from him. Stephen is a twinshock trials rider here in New Zealand, have ridden against him a few times on his Ossa gripper This is his eBay store listing for the 250A YAMAHA Workshop Manual TY250 A TY250 1974 Service & Repair | eBay

Wossner do make a standard size piston, strangely enough TYtrials shows a 1st oversize for a 70.25mm bore then 2nd, 4th, 6th & 8th oversize, aftermarket pistons generally only come in 0.5mm steps so 2nd, 4th, 6th & 8th

What I've done with both my Jarvis & the TY is use the Dellorto threaded adjuster which screws into the OKO carb top perfectly & a Sherco cable for a Keihin carb as I use a modern throttle, it does run a slightly different route to the standard carb due to the cable coming out on a curve rather than straight up. Hopefully we can find some time to build the new airbox over the next month or so & I can get some decent testing done

Don't have it fitted yet as the plan is to make a more modern airbox with a short, straight connection to the carb but ran out of time to get it done before the 75th Kaikoura 3 day this weekend so I'm still running the standard carb with the modified airbox Looking forward to finishing everything up & getting some testing done in the next couple of months I've run a OKO on my Jarvis Replica for a large number of years, it's a nice carb that works far better than the original Dellorto down low & doesn't seem to overflow as much as Keihin PWKs do. Well worth the money as long as it's a genuine carb & not a chinese knockoff

The installation instructions from mid-atlantic mention needing to soften the up the hose to make it fit the OKO carb, only modification needed to fit the new carb. The mikunis used on the TYs are unique to them, small float bowl & I think the airbox side is smaller than a generic new replacement mikuni measures. There isn't much clearance under the float bowl of the OKO but they fit straight in the cylinder side manifold so it's really only the airbox side that is different Your original hose will have shrunk as well as hardened with age, the clauss studios hose fits perfectly with the standard carb etc so I think it should be able to fit the OKO with the boiling water treatment

It will probably be a good idea to get new airbox connector from clauss studios for the OKO carb, the bellmouth is bigger so you need to expand the rubber to fit & your original has probably gone hard with age & no amount of hot water will make it pliable enough to stretch to fit without splitting I have the 28mm for mine but the plan is to remake the airbox with a straight hose & modern air filter in the lid design to get rid of all the restrictions

Can't remember what the number ended up being but they're on the the reed block in the 175 now. The 6TR108 look more correct, seem to come up as fitting Fantic on Italian sites

In the US I'd contact Bob Grinder of B&J racing, he's the TY guru

The sealant does suggest a problem there, possible that a new manifold would help. Is the dealer refunding you or going to sort the issue for you & give the bike back when it's running properly?

Normally when I bleed both the front brake & clutch I just jiggle the lever & let the air exit back to the master cylinder, takes time but you'd be surprised at how effective it is. Remember that the air wants to rise to the highest point It's not possible that you folded part of the seal over when fitting the piston?

Only noise I've ever had in that area was from the rubber dampers in the clutch going hard & shrinking from old age, rebuilt & quiet again If it's definitely a gear noise I'd suspect the kickstart idler gear