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About Ftwelder

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    BSA B25

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  1. I am new, is there a place here to post projects? Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  2. Montesa and Bultaco are much the same and diagrams are available to resolve the wiring issue. Magnets go bad. Lot's of good info on youtube. I think degaussing is relevant term. bypass the fuel tank unless it's been leak tested and use a temporary tank. Once wiring was sorted and coil disconnected, I would prepare a mixture of gas and oil, may be 50/50 and squirt some in the intake when the piston is down, object to get down transfer ports to crank case. Lay bike on each side with the objective of lubing crank bearings and seals. Don't go crazy. Let it sit for hours totally horizontal on each side. Stand the bike upright, remove plug and place thumb over spark plug hole and kick the bike over. You should feel serious pressure. Reconnect coil. Make sure your kill button is connected. With plug out of head but connected to the coil wire, ground the body of the spark plug against the head or some legit ground. Some ignitions can be damaged if this is not done so clean the paint off or whatever. Kick it over. If you have no spark, check connections, typical would be weak spark. If you have a good spark that will fire under compression you will hear it snap. Once you have a good spark, carb and fuel system are clean, put in fresh premix according to oil maker. Generally 32:1. Using more mix oil than is suggested is a bad idea as oil doesn't burn and takes up space in the fuel system causing a leaner fuel mix, We lubed the seals earlier. Turn on gas for 30 seconds and turn it off. loosen carb drain plug and see make sure you have fuel. Air filter is off, carb slide moves with throttle and closes with audible "clunk". Give it a couple kicks, Should the motor take off for whatever reason, have something to cover carb intake like a piece of wood, not a rag. If it does run, shut it off quickly and read the plug. Don't run it lean. This should hold you over till better advice comes along.
  3. Ftwelder


    That makes perfect sense. It's rocky/muddy here with no established trials lines/low trials skill level so i should start with "plenty". Thanks again gents! Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  4. Ftwelder


    My apologies for posting in the wrong sub-forum but this crowd typically will know most about the BSA unit single and it's application in trials. I am building up a B25 motor/modded B44 frame with old Bultaco suspension and wheels. I am ready to make my skid and have a few questions based on zero trials but other technical knowledge. Thinking 5mm/3/16 plate which ill heat treat to T6 after welding. Do I need to extend beyond the frame rails? I weld aluminum daily and was uythinking keeping the skid narrow and patching the covers when/if they get damaged. Will I need a spare in my tool box? How much case contact are you making? i would like to add I removed the studs and plan to use socket heads for slightly more clearance Thanks much Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  5. Small world! Keep me posted on your progress.
  6. I am your welder. This is Frank Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  7. Welcome, I am new, also in VT (southern) and currently putting together a BSA trials bike. I hear we have a good club in the state (Green Mountain Plonkers) and CL always seems to have one or two bikes between here and CT. Cheers, Frank
  8. I got a crusty on the outside, perfect on the inside NOS Betor fork locally was originally built for a Rokon dirt bike from the mid 70's. It looks like a cast version of a Ceriani GP. Anyway, the bore of the stanchion looks worse than the a typical DOM tube and the pistons don't have non-metallic rings. I am thinking I should hone the bores and add micarta bearings to the piston? The main slider bearings are perfect, zero play. The springs are 495 and wire 3.95 which should be good for a BSA single? I appreciate any advice. For reference. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  9. It seems to be exactly what I had hoped to hear and misplacement won't be a huge off-set. Thanks.
  10. I have a little slice of land with some good riding potential and want to make my B25 really quiet with minimal loss of low/mid power. I started to build a glass packed silencer for behind the seat stay tube (for stock header) and now see resonators being used before muffler. I would like to hear something about your experiences. I can bend and splice tubes so building from scratch is no problem and I would rather get this done before paint, Let me (not) hear what you have! Thanks, Frank Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  11. I have noticed that people bend the down tube to change the wheelbase as well as head angle. I cut my head tube off, mitered the frame 3* steeper, made a Bultaco head tube and am currently welding it on. I did a wheel check and have 40mm tire to frame at full compression.
  12. Thankfully I picked up on the fact that flexibility in design is pretty important. A good example is foot peg location. Originally I used Michael Wallers Youtube advice regarding positioning and was going to weld on tubular brackets but went back and designed new peg mounts that attach at swing arm pivot. My fork offset is 70mm and all at the crown/yoke/triple clamp so bolts are a great idea. When I changed the head angle I made an extra large diameter head tube and could potentially make adapter cups that alter head angle. Since I have your attention, should I make the swing arm as short as possible? The adjustment will be at rear axle. Thanks for the advice. Frank
  13. Agreed, something between the BSA and the KT looks right. I appreciate the advice, thanks! Frank
  14. It looks like I am just short of 90 degrees. It’s my first fuel tank build so I am reluctant to attempt an alteration before welding. I’ll set the stops a little short and let nature do it’s thing haha
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