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About Ftwelder

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  1. Helicoil is a great idea. I’ll give that a whirl. I got the fenders from Ron Bors in upstate NY. They are Acerbis items.
  2. Exactly right on the brake shoes I bought,. Feetupfun mentioned drilling the axle hole larger and allowing the brake plate to self center. I have some machines so Ill bore a hole in piece of plate that matches the drum size, drop the backing plate in with shoes, and locate the hole center in the backing plate. If the shoes fit the bore diameter I should be able to locate center and solve the problem. Perhaps. I can get a smaller front gear from my local dealers stock on short order, haven't heard if it's 10 or 11T. I remember my Montesa was geared to ride in 2/3 most of the time and first seemed crazy low. That suites me fine and may be a winter upgrade to go 10/44. I went to remove the drain plug and although it was snug it didn't retract when unscrewed. I applied a side load while turning the wrench and the drain plug came out with some bits of aluminum and the last remains of a couple threads. If the motor was apart or coming apart soon I would weld up the hole but just going to tap to next size up at this point in time. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  3. I ll try to locate a 10T and have it in time. After seeing the wire routing, I can see your concern. Ill change that up. Ill take another look at the motoplat and see about changing the wires out. I hate taking those case screws out! I have installed Newfren brake components and hope they work for a few rides though my expectations just dropped considerably. . I reduced the width to make them fit but I guess I need to blueprint the parts and do it right over the winter. I figured out a strategy for the skid plate and ordered some 5mm 6061. Thanks for advice and support.
  4. Thanks for all the great info! This is helping develop a strategy. I should have mentioned my last time on a trials motorcycle was 25 years ago... I have ridden plenty of off-road, bicycle trials over the years but riding the easy line all the way as a senior these days. Here is my list for the immediate future. 1) Add small front sprocket and extra nut/washer to shopping list. I would have missed this for sure. 2) make alu bash plate, add delrin chain guide block. This is actually an area of great interest. I don't care for spring loaded chain management devices. 3)(pjw123) I will have to use the original rear sprocket one more time. I would like to find a worn original and machine an interface for replaceable chain rings and retire mine. 4 I have seen the wire re-routing) fixes and am going to look for a work -around to avoid altering the original pieces by drilling holes. I may change my mind. 3) Check rear brake concentricity and resolve any issues. Thanks feetupfun. 4) Change fork seals/washers. pjw123, I have no trouble getting any fuel I want.Low population density in my area. I think the carb is IRZ. Thankfully I have a nice hot spark!
  5. I found a barn fresh MAR with mostly original equipment and under 1250k fresh motor. It's worthy of a full restoration but I was looking for a cheap rider so I am bagging/boxing all the nice original bits and going to ride a season or two before doing the restoration. It's got spark, compression and carb is clean. It had no brakes or fuel tank so I hasn't been started. Rare find in these parts by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Rare find in these parts by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr The bike had been stored with ethanol fuel and the tank was mush. I am using Caswell epoxy liner/ shell to remediate but not sure if it will work, assuming it will. I have already replaces the brake linings and have a new brake cable, I have installed IRC trials tires (rear is tube/comp, front is tube type but low end model) The original sprockets are great so Ill replace the stretched original chain and keep it wet and adjusted. I removed and stashed the alloy fenders with the seat and replaced with plastic. Ill do the same with the shocks and do the fork seals, the center bolt has severe leak. I got a side pull throttle and will build a skid this week. I should make a list. The kicker was a mess also. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Made a comp seat (yet to be reduced) Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I have all the intake and fuel delivery parts ready to go also. I should be able to pull it off. ?
  6. Ftwelder

    Fuel Mixture ?

    One small thing to consider, In your fuel air mix, oil isn't fuel but takes up space in the fuel stream. If you make a change in mix ratio, you have also made a small change in fuel air mix.
  7. I am new, is there a place here to post projects? Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  8. Montesa and Bultaco are much the same and diagrams are available to resolve the wiring issue. Magnets go bad. Lot's of good info on youtube. I think degaussing is relevant term. bypass the fuel tank unless it's been leak tested and use a temporary tank. Once wiring was sorted and coil disconnected, I would prepare a mixture of gas and oil, may be 50/50 and squirt some in the intake when the piston is down, object to get down transfer ports to crank case. Lay bike on each side with the objective of lubing crank bearings and seals. Don't go crazy. Let it sit for hours totally horizontal on each side. Stand the bike upright, remove plug and place thumb over spark plug hole and kick the bike over. You should feel serious pressure. Reconnect coil. Make sure your kill button is connected. With plug out of head but connected to the coil wire, ground the body of the spark plug against the head or some legit ground. Some ignitions can be damaged if this is not done so clean the paint off or whatever. Kick it over. If you have no spark, check connections, typical would be weak spark. If you have a good spark that will fire under compression you will hear it snap. Once you have a good spark, carb and fuel system are clean, put in fresh premix according to oil maker. Generally 32:1. Using more mix oil than is suggested is a bad idea as oil doesn't burn and takes up space in the fuel system causing a leaner fuel mix, We lubed the seals earlier. Turn on gas for 30 seconds and turn it off. loosen carb drain plug and see make sure you have fuel. Air filter is off, carb slide moves with throttle and closes with audible "clunk". Give it a couple kicks, Should the motor take off for whatever reason, have something to cover carb intake like a piece of wood, not a rag. If it does run, shut it off quickly and read the plug. Don't run it lean. This should hold you over till better advice comes along.
  9. Ftwelder


    That makes perfect sense. It's rocky/muddy here with no established trials lines/low trials skill level so i should start with "plenty". Thanks again gents! Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  10. Ftwelder


    My apologies for posting in the wrong sub-forum but this crowd typically will know most about the BSA unit single and it's application in trials. I am building up a B25 motor/modded B44 frame with old Bultaco suspension and wheels. I am ready to make my skid and have a few questions based on zero trials but other technical knowledge. Thinking 5mm/3/16 plate which ill heat treat to T6 after welding. Do I need to extend beyond the frame rails? I weld aluminum daily and was uythinking keeping the skid narrow and patching the covers when/if they get damaged. Will I need a spare in my tool box? How much case contact are you making? i would like to add I removed the studs and plan to use socket heads for slightly more clearance Thanks much Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  11. Small world! Keep me posted on your progress.
  12. I am your welder. This is Frank Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
  13. Welcome, I am new, also in VT (southern) and currently putting together a BSA trials bike. I hear we have a good club in the state (Green Mountain Plonkers) and CL always seems to have one or two bikes between here and CT. Cheers, Frank
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