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dan williams

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About dan williams

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    2018 Beta EVO300

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  • Location
    North Reading Mass USA
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  1. I think you’re in violent agreement. The torque (force applied) is the same but horsepower is work done which has that load component to it because the wheel is moving further for the same force. So the horsepower is also the same as it can result in multiple transfers of energy. Acceleration of the bike + wheel spin (throwing dirt backwards uses energy) + mechanical losses (clutch slippage being one component). I think that the only missing piece between you is where the horsepower is expressed, rear wheel vs crank. It’s a common mistake to apply static analysis to a dynamic system and that is what Billy is saying. Torque can be static but horsepower requires motion.
  2. Experts tend to like their clutch to hit immediate and hard like an on/off switch. First things first though. Pull the lever and the rubber dust cover off to make sure the piston in the master is actually returning to the snap ring. There is a spring above the piston that can be damaged if the lever takes a hard hit. Looking at the photo the adjustment screw should never have to be that far out so that looks funky but maybe those levers are not the correct ones for that bike. People that have measured the throw of the pressure plate report it to be around 1.27mm so there's not a lot to play with. Theoretically the hydraulic clutch is self adjusting as the slave piston only comes back as far as the pressure plate pushes it so its resting position is variable depending on wear and manufacturing tolerances. If the actuator assembly is put back together wrong it's possible the clutch will still seem to work but not work correctly. I think we've all lost the ball bearing that sits between the push rod and the actuator at one time. Replace it with a slightly different bearing and the clutch behaves a bit "odd". Along that line the Japanese video you're referring to uses shims to take up any slack in the actuator mechanism so that the clutch actuation takes place without any slack in the throw. This is to address the problem of clutch drag with the lever pulled in. Referring back to the 1.27mm of pressure plate throw, if you pull the lever at the handlebar all the way in and the piston in the slave cylinder moves 1.4mm over the entire lever travel that is a fixed amount. If the resting position of the clutch actuation mechanism has 0.5mm of slack in it you will only move the pressure plate 0.9mm which may cause some drag as the plates move past each other. If you use washers to take up the slack in the actuator mechanism so there is no slack then you get the full pressure plate movement of 1.4mm and less drag. These are numbers just for illustration, not actual measured values. Bear in mind that free throw at the lever is not necessarily the free throw of the actuation mechanism. The master cylinder must have dead space in its throw to allow the bleed hole in the reservoir to be uncovered. That part of the travel has no effect on the pressure plate as you noted. Since an expert had the bike I wonder if it could have an accessory slave cylinder. Might be worth asking if you can. One other thing I think worth noting is on my bikes I ditch the thicker plates on the ends of the clutch pack for two more of the 2.7mm plates. I just like the feel better being a duffer with no expert ambitions. Or intermediate ambitions for that matter.🙂 Having done the clutch fix on so many bikes I have a stack of various Beta clutch plates in the garage. Some of them given to me by people who thought they needed to replace their plates. In theory it's a really simple mechanism but in reality they can be very finicky if the bits aren't all in the right place. This is where I wish all you guys were local so I could see it in person.
  3. As strange as it seems having the clutch slip a bit on the road in top gear is pretty much not an issue as it is not a road bike. Having a progressive engagement in a section is much more important. Having said that if it really bothers you changing the oil to ATF may help as ATF has friction enhancers. The other thing to try is to take fine emery cloth and dress the steel plates to break up the surface polish that happens to the steels after years of use.
  4. If it’s a four stroke they are all six nominally 3mm. The two stroke uses two 3mm and four 2.7mm. Plates don’t wear on a trials bike and certainly shouldn’t be worn on a 2018. I think your adjustment is just out. To make it engage further out back out the screw on the lever that pushes the master cylinder piston in then adjust the screw on the perch to allow the piston to return all the way out to the snap ring in the master cylinder. I also move my levers in on the bars to give me more leverage and better feel since I only use one finger on the clutch and brake. It has the added advantage of making it hard to bend or break a lever since the bar ends will almost always hit first.
  5. Ah I was wondering about the name change. Good luck to him. I always liked Ryan.
  6. I think the bikes in the UK all came stock with the flywheel and had a spacer for the case. You might be able to source one "over there". https://www.splatshop.co.uk/s3-beta-flywheel-weight.html Looks like Ryan's got some. Pretty thin so they might not need a spacer. Best option is to just call Ryan and ask. https://rypusa.com/s3-evo-flywheel-weight-14/
  7. I might as well post this again. This is my diatribe on the cheesy system ground on my '08. It may be of some use to you. Beta_wiring.pdf
  8. Voltage and frequency varies with engine speed but it has to be minimum around 15-16 volts RMS since there’s some drop in the regulator. I think it probably runs between 15-25 volts. The voltage will also be affected somewhat by the load.
  9. H Hopefully. I put a new rear caliper on the '18 last month because the rear was acting strange after a hit. Replaced the bent disk but it still acted funky. Old caliper is still on the bench waiting to be disassembled and geeked at.
  10. Got a few parts I could farm out. They come with no warranty, implied or explicit. All are the reverse bearing design so the bearing sits properly on the cam. The 13mm bearings are for the stock cam. The 16mm bearings may work on the 2018 factory and 2019 standard with the new cam design but I can't be certain as I don't have one to measure. The 16mm bearing does work with the custom cams the 12mm hole that the pedestal of the shift drum sits in is kinda snug due to machining tolerances so I had to hog them out to ~12.07mm with a sanding drum. Not precise I know but it worked. The green ink on one index hole is the position to put neutral between 1st and 2nd. The custom cam and 16mm bearings are now in my bike and one other "Beta" tester. So far he likes it.
  11. That wiring drawing would typically be all you need to make your own but I've found the Beta diagrams to have inaccuracies. You could try one of the bike breakers in England. There'll be nothing in the US since most riders here just pull the headlight and other wiring off and lose it somewhere in the garage. Easier to schedule tea with the queen than get a trials bike road registration here.
  12. True but that’s how it becomes your experience.😁
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