dan williams

The S3 website shows the 250 and 280 head inserts have the short plug neck and the 300 head insert has the longer neck. If that is different than the stock head insert than I guess try a longer plug of the same type/heat range and go from there.

Interesting the plate is still 3mm thick but the friction material is semi-metallic and the plate width is thinner. Something I didn’t notice about the kevlar plates is they are slightly wider than the stock plates.🤔

I noticed some of the bikes that use the 3mm Barnet plates also call out 1 plate with a different number. I ordered one just to see if it’s the same form factor with a different thickness. I’ll let you all know what I find.

Not sure what difference this may make but just adding to the general knowledge I notice the Beta fiber plates are now noted as being Ferodo rather than Adige. I personally haven't seen any but I do see Beta wants a lot more money per plate.

Anybody try the TL01s yet? Opinions?

The stock brake lines are 1/8” J. Juan lines but I haven’t found any specs for the hose. There are ultra-low expansion hydraulic hoses but finding specs is proving difficult.

Yeah I remember that. There were always custom goodies on Ron’s bikes. Including a few Ron specific mods. Always amazed me the stuff Ron Jr. could do especially since he could barely flex his throttle wrist. He’d turn the throttle on by rolling it under his fingers and control power with clutch technique.

“There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable. There is another theory which states that this has already happened.” Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy In my never ending quest to improve my Beta (and ignore the fact that I’m the weak link) I’ve been thinking about the generally accepted weakness or at least variable feel of the Beta rear brake. It uses the same master cylinder as the other bikes. The caliper is not particularly different. I can only come up with one big difference between Beta and the other brands. Beta’s brake is on the other side of the swingarm. In itself not significant but the brake hose is roughly twice the length of the other bikes. This makes the Beta twice as sensitive to the effect of hose expansion under pressure. Could something this simple be why Beta rear brakes are not on par with other manufacturers? I feel some research coming.🤔

Looks like they've upped their game. Much nicer looking bike.

I need to update it. So much good information added through this thread.

The waiting begins. Really looking forward to seeing how this develops. EM paved the way but they are really going to be hurting once a few more electrics get released and this latest prototype looks very interesting.

Could be air leak in manifold between carb and cylinder. Pretty much only thing I can think of if slide is retuning properly to rest position in carb. If the bike revs up again stick something over the exhaust to drop the revs then the kill switch should work. When an engine is screaming the ignition of the mixture can become self sustaining. The other thing that can happen is there is so much primary ignition current being generated the few ohms resistance in the kill switch can leave enough current in the primary to keep firing the plug. I’ve pulled the plug wire too. I’ll never do it again. Pretty sure I felt my heart stop. 😳 Didn’t like it. You might want to check the ground connection of your kill switch. Beta did a stupid wiring setup on some of the rev3s where they grounded to a lug behind the number plate to the triple clamp. Caused dodgy kill switch and lighting behavior. I always ran a larger ground wire back through the harness to a hard ground point on the frame. Specifically one of the mounting screws of the coil.

There’s endless debate about copper core/iridium/projected tip variants. They all work and I have yet to see any advantage one over the other with only one suspected fouled plug in the last 20 years. The main variable is heat range and that is something that only your engine can tell you if it’s correct because it’s going to be affected by oil mixture, air density, fuel/air mixture, style of riding…. So if your BR5ES looks good when you eyeball it then it’s all good. If it looks hot then drop to the BR7ES. Despite few changes to the fundamentals of their engines Beta have recommended different variations of plugs usually in the NGK 7 heat range with the latest being the ridiculously priced NGK IR GR7CI-8 which is basically a BR7EIX for twice the price. Just like oils the recommended plug has as much to do with sponsorship as performance. I think the newest iridium plug recommendation is emissions based though as it’s not uncommon now for “off road” bikes to come with sealed carburetors and security screws on manifolds and such. Even the EVOs have different jetting now for “homologation”.

The early Leonelli had the reverse magnet polarity to the Jitsie so they didn’t work if you mixed the cap and switch assembly. The problem is the way these switches work. A normally open magnetic switch doesn’t care about the magnet polarity but the normally closed switch does because it has a magnet in the switch housing that closes the reed switch. When a second magnet of opposite polarity is placed in proximity to the reed it cancels the field of the first magnet and the reed switch opens. As for the magnets falling out of the cap I’ve had a few do that. I drilled a small hole in the top of the caps and injected superglue in on top of the magnets. They’re not going anywhere now.😁

Maybe we should find a dealer in the UK for your lanyards/magnets and my clutch washers. Then we could just send over one box.😃