htrdoug

I did this about 8 years ago so may not be totally accurate, you may need different lengths and sizes but my system works for trials bikes, very quick to load. Steel J-Hook Anchor for Wet Concrete, 3/8" Diameter, 8" Long (not positive on the length you will need, I bought multiple lengths to accommodate both vintage, modern, and whatever I wanted to haul) https://www.mcmaster.com/91588A111 Quick-Adjust Load-Securing Track, 6 Feet Long(commonly referred to as L-Track) https://www.mcmaster.com/39695T41 Eye Nut-Style Hangers, 3/8"-16 Thread, 2" Long https://www.mcmaster.com/91705A600 1000 lbs. Capacity Tie-Down Ring for Quick-Adjust Load-Securing Track https://www.mcmaster.com/39695T51 Zinc-Plated Steel Carabiner - Not for Lifting, 300 lbs. Capacity, 5/16" Thick, 1/2" Narrow-End Inside Width https://www.mcmaster.com/3933T14 As a added bonus Moto- Cinch also works on the L-track, but Moto-Cinch I have won’t quite hold a trials bike down securely enough and the securing pin won’t fit through all Footpegs. I do see Moto Cinch does have a shorter model now. And I don’t run the hooks through the pegs anymore, just catch them over the top.

I just use some J hooks anchored to the floor. Lean bike to center of van, hook one side, lean back the other way and hook the other side. Strap on front break lever. Different length j hooks for vintage and modern.

Mediterranean diet has helped me with my aches and pains, and I'm just kinda easing into it. Down 40 Lbs. Modern is easier on me, so I'm building a vintage to mimic a modern as much as possible. I don't run my bars as fashionably forward as some,but definitely not back into trail bike position. Experiment with lever position too. I like Devil's club salve too, works better for me than CBD .

Ground wire for ignition is under a mounting bolt for the CDI unit, the plastic housing of the CDI box causes loss of continuity, relocate the ground to another spot and proper spark will be restored. Often the ignition components get replaced and the ground wire gets fiddled with and it restores it's connection and fools the mechanic into believing it was the component they replaced that fixed it, only to have the problem reoccur. Always verify good grounding before replacing any mysterious magical electrical doohickies.

I’ve ridden a 200 with a JP pipe, the power felt fantastic to me, I don’t think you’ll be taking any extra dabs due to the power. 200 belongs to my good pal and he would not leave it on his bike if it was a detriment of any kind. I’d give it a go as is.

That’s not a decompression lever, it’s your cold start enrichment (Choke). It’s just cable actuated rather than a knob on the carb itself. Myself I prefer a Dellorto over a Keihin due to the easy tuning. I can jet a Dellorto to have perfectly smooth state with almost no 4stroking at any time, but the aggressive kiddos want a abrupt “Brapp” when they are facing big steps, so Keihin for them. That’s a pretty small Dellorto you have there, never heard of anyone running a 21 mm carb on a trials bike. Surely a 300 needs more carb.

Whip up something like this as a quick experiment https://www.delaytrial.com/marca-motocicleta/fantic/accesorios-fantic/soporte-estriberas-fantic-200-minifantic/ Easier than building new mounts but they will put bending stresses on your present setup,

I like my brake pedal to be level with the foot peg when depressed by hand, essentially taking the slack out of the system and applying some pressure. So the pedal is noticeably above the peg when at rest. My TRS actually won’t let you lower it much anyway as it will hit the frame. And my SWM is fortunately a left side kicker so I can set the pedal wherever I like. And just pick up the essentials to build up a Fantic 340(301 engine in a 240 frame) which has the excellent front firing kicker😀 brake pedal also free for any configuration. I see the problem with the low kick shaft Suzuki,really constraints you. Can you just raise the tip of the pedal? Check out the shape of the RL 250 brake pedal,it curls around the kicker.

Step #1 is to locate all grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. Including engine to frame mounting surfaces.

Don’t ruin your backing plate. You need to have the shoes fitted to the drum on a lathe. If that is not a option then you have to sand on the shoes until they fit the drum. Sand them where the shiny spots are that are making drum contact, that’s the high spots. It takes multiple attempts to get them arced in by hand.

Is it running smoothly when you are waiting for it to come on or is it burbling until you open the throttle more? You can try turning the mixture screw out about 1/2 turn at a time to see if it helps the burble. I bought a 2017 Factory a couple of yeas ago that ran that way until I turned it out some. I eventually put the remote mixture adjuster on it so I could keep it tweaked in for the weather. Then the bike was smooth and linear all the way up.

Maybe a straight kicker from the earlier TS 185 will fit the shaft? And give it the bend like this Cota. When it engages the gear it will be directly above the shaft and then rotate back and stop on the foot peg. I had a RL 250 that had a kicker like yours and it didn’t engage until it was even with the foot peg and it only gave a short effective stroke and the large offset made it wonky to kick. Fortunately it was very easy to start.

Here’s a thought for you,a modern 125,250,300 all take the same header pipe and silencer.

Damn, that sounds good. I think I would just turn that midbox you have into a packed silencer and see how it does. Just add a perforated tube through it and moderately stuff it,not too tightly. another experiment would be to cut up a stock 185 exhaust to fit the bike without changing header length and keeping midbox volume as close to stock as possible, just to see how it goes.

How is your jetting? If you are too rich on the first 1/4 of throttle then it will “boost up” once you open the throttle more and the mixture leans out. When the carb is properly jetted it fills in the lower power curve and then the transition to midrange is much more gentle. I just leaned the atomizer tube on my TRS XTrack 4 steps and it did wonders for my controllability. (it’s a Dellorto phbl and went from a 270k atomizer to a 264k) Dellorto carbs are very easy to grasp the adjustment concepts, the numbers are in millimeters,2.7 mm to 2.64 mm change. I recommend working on your carb before grinding on the ports,you should optimize what you have before doing something irreversible. You can keep going leaner until it bogs, At trials engine speeds you aren’t in very much danger of seizure I was working on a friends TRS Raga this past weekend and getting his jetting closer(Keihin PWK carb) and he commented on how it smoothed the abrupt hit compared to the way it was stock. And I really think we can smooth it more with a bit more tuning.