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About cleanorbust

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    Sherco 200

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  1. I think the accepted wisdom would be that you're better off with a worn X11 than a new Mitas.
  2. I've got one, same year. Geared it down one tooth on the gearbox sprocket, slow action throttle and retarded ignition. It's a great big pussy cat of a bike, completely unintimidating, grips well with easily repackable silencer. Very cheap to run with no rear linkage etc and none the worse for it.
  3. I remember in the mid 70s the UK Kawasaki importer effectively made every buyer of a new KT250 a works rider, promising a fairly substantial cash payout for a win or first class award in a national (and possibly Centre) trial. Remember, we're talking about the KT250 - up against the Bultos, MARs and Cotas, their money proved to be pretty safe.
  4. I don't think it's a question of age determining when people stop riding. I know many people in their 70s and 80s whose general health and fitness is far above that of lots of 40 year olds. Put them on a trials bike and this would be proved. If the general fitness and will is there, just keep riding. Sadly I can recall loads of super riders who stopped in their 20s/30s, through boredom, moving to enduros, financial constraints, family demands etc etc.
  5. He'd probably do quite well on a Tiger Cub, though he'd be hard put to find one that fits the description of "an old twinshock".
  6. I've never found a need for tie-down points at the rear of the luggage area in a Doblo. With the bike strapped to the seat locating loops and the back door shut, it can't move anywhere.
  7. As Chappo says, definitely worth doing but you might as well make the silencer repackable without the need for cutting and welding in future, ie the self-tapper method.
  8. I converted the mid-section and rear silencers on my 247 (same as used on 348) to be repackable, without the expense of welding (which is outside my scope). I removed a rectangular section from the flat surface on the back of the silencer with an angle grinder, leaving a 1 cm margin of flat surface around the aperture. Then pulled out the remainder of the original packing (mainly solid lumps of carbon after 40 years of use) from around the perforated tube inside the silencer. Next, repacked the space around the tube with new packing material (the loose wool type). Then, cut a rectangular piece of alloy sheet which I had lying around, to cover the hole and overlap onto the surrounding margin . Drilled small holes around the perimeter at 1cm intervals, through the alloy plate and into the silencer body, then used self tapping screws to hold the plate to the silencer (holes should be small enough to allow the screws a bite into the silencer). Lastly, a strip of heatproof silicone seal around the edge of the alloy plate and a layer of exhaust paint brushed over the whole to tidy everything up. This has proved perfectly reliable and repacking is easy by removing the screws.
  9. Strangely I can't recall removing the plug cap or changing plugs presenting any problem with mine, though it was 40 years ago.
  10. Yes, spark plug in top hole. This gives an even flame travel across the top of the piston.
  11. If you don't fancy drilling the frame, some strips of self adhesive Velcro on the tubes and the inner surface of a side panel should be up to the job. Regarding unusual fitments, that kick start looks like no other that I've seen, but is no doubt quite serviceable. Frame number on headstock?
  12. I'd be wary of relying on 40 year old handlebars, I did exactly that with my Cota 247 and they snapped first trial out. My first bike was a Dalesman. I think they might well be Puch forks on your model. A good strip down, or even just flushing out and filling with correct oil should improve things but of ccourse they're pretty limited as trials forks by their design. To help to complete the original look, you could make up a triangular alloy side panel for the right side. This was attached with self tapping screws into small holes drilled in the frame tubes.
  13. You might find that standing alongside the bike and kicking with your right foot helps you get the power and leverage you need. I did this quite a lot with my Beta; there's nothing to say a left sided kick start must be kicked with the left foot.
  14. If you contact Bill Pye at Frankfield Garage, Great Ayton on 1642 722378 he might be able to advise on how feasible this is. He's Mr Fantic, knows almost everything about them.
  15. I think your incident is entirely normal for someone with little or no experience, we've all had the feeling of the bike running away with us at the very beginning. If the bike is running as it should, you just need to practice taking off from a standstill, pay attention to what you're doing with your throttle hand and you'll soon get the hang of doing it fairly smoothly and your confidence will really pick up then. Keep at it, it will come, and you'll look back and laugh at today's experience.
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