Ftwelder

I ended up getting really lucky and finding the original piece which is no longer available. It does have a slight divot as stevec mentioned. The chain rub block isn't available anymore so I drew it up and a local trials buddy is printing a nylon replacement,

My clutch push rod has been misplaced and before I order a new one I wonder if someone might have one handy and they ability to get an accurate measurement? 270CC model. Thanks, Frank

After the fall and first backfire episode, I opened the throttle all the way, kicked several times and got nothing, not even a pop, closed the throttle, kicked again and several more hard kick-backs. I returned to work and removed the plug and it was very sooty (way more than normal used plug from this bike) I then put a new plug and nothing changed. I did not inspect the kill switch but I did just remember that a riding buddy asked me if I had whacked the coil guard on a rock (highly possible) but I overlooked that. Ill take another look in a couple hours. Thanks!

I have had the bike for a couple months and really like it. I had a little tip-over on the left side today and when restarted it ran well for 10 seconds then started backfiring violently then stalled. I tried restarting and it kicked back hard several times but never fired up. It acted like the flywheel key was sheared but upon disassembly was fine. Does this sound like the ignition module? Thanks for looking.

If you are in the states Ron Bors or Alex Snoop

I love the RI event. I get to work as a checker at the National event which will be a great experience!

Another happy "Beta clutch fix" customer! This Beta forum in it's entirety has been great. My REV3 is an 02 model and has had several owners prior to me but the clutch was still stock. I did all the clean-up work with a small square file and polished the tangs with a scotchbrite belt and the whole project only took a couple hours. On it's first outing it was a little noisy but worked much better (good enough for second in class) and ended up meeting Dan and getting a set of his off-set spring washers which lightened clutch action quite a bit. Thanks!

My thumb knuckles have arthritis which has recently been aggravated by switching to a modern bike as well and read that high quality olive oil blocks some types of pain when massaged into effected areas. Seems worth a try.

650C is the same as 26X1 so it's smaller than a 650B

Yes for the most part. I don't mind them at an angle except they don't fold back properly. I angled them a little in an effort to make the kicker clear the peg. It does not.

I lowered my pegs about 12mm which made it turn even better than before and I was able to operate the brake better too! The bike worked really well over the weekend, thanks for the help folks!

That looks pretty easy! My mounts are tapered pieces of thick square tube and stuck on there pretty well. Thanks. Great comment and you are correct but I probably didn't pull the front brake lever hard enough. The grade was extremely steep and front brake lever angle may not have been correct along with the brake pedal. I bottomed the fork so hard oil shot out past the seals! I clearly need to work on my set-up.

Not very much. may be 15mm before the shoes touch. I keep the slack to a minimum. I can probably add some to the brake pedal and also looking at making some lower profile pegs. The pedal is much lower than the peg when applied. Thanks folks, Ill make some progress and check in.

I had a weird experience today. I had to go down a very steep grade about 4/5m tall with a short run out and got a severe calf cramp trying to stay on the rear brake. I wonder how far above the peg is considered ideal? I may need to lower my pegs as my brake pedal can't go up any more. Thank you.

I have heard of those TF bikes and seen a few photos of the stock version. They have an extra motor mount at the back of the engine and I think the kicker is situated higher in the case like the RM engines. They seem like a great platform for a conversion and I would love to see what the guy came up with!

Thanks Dan! Warren has ANOTHER Reflex that is even crazier than the one he brings to events but it's not running well yet. Frank

It seems to be typical to remove some clutch springs to lighten up the action a bit. I figured I would give this a try but found that this model has seven springs so you can't remove an even amount. I figured that as long as the plates all clamped at the same time it didn't matter. The clutch is turning much slower than the crank and the engine is never really revved much. I made certain assumptions regarding the clamping pressure of asymmetrical springs and because these springs are held to the hub by their body I could adjust preload to test my theory so I bought a broken cover on ebay and cut huge holes through so I could measure the distance between pressure plate and frictions. I have had a set of gage blocks for years and was happy to get some use out of them finally, The clutch lever has the same spline as the shifter so I used shifter to actuate the clutch to check the run-out of the pressure plate. I have been chasing a tiny gear oil leak for a while and figured I should vent the gear box to see if it helped. The vent is in an with no splash. I rode last weekend for a bit but decided to work after a couple observation loops. The bike is working well but the clutch isn't broken in yet. I am enjoying the lighter clutch pull with no side effects so far,

Thanks coach!

Trebor Hemingway got a few photos of the Suzuki at the most recent event. The head work is done, I hope it works out.

I have no idea what I am doing so I leave them loose enough to knock around as I see fit. It seems to work.

I bought the NJB ultimate because of the adjustable body length which is independent of the the preload adjustment. The damping is very light and seem to be quite good. Coil spring exact length is not critical as long as it's both short enough to be installed and long enough to prevent the spring coils from contacting each other known as binding.

It's very important to have the correct spring rate, one that does not require much pre-load to achieve 25~ 30% sag with rider on pegs. I started with a 45# spring and should have started with 60# with a low leverage system and 157 KG of bike/rider.

It could be. Around here there are more tools than people to use them so I don't pamper them and discard them at the first show of weakness. That particular one has a very wide blade for it's handle size and it's very tough. I got the intake port flange cleaned up and also deburred the bottom of the barrel. I always put way too much weld when I do build-ups which is usually still too little. Once The welding was done I bolted the cylinder to a 90* angle plate and tried my best to get it set with old flange parallel to the cutter face. It takes a while. Once faced it's just a matter of drilling a hole and tracing around the flange. I don't see a need to do anything further. I figured I would do a quick check that I had some carb clearance. I had drawn the combustion chamber as a solid model but the area number was always weird till I realized most calculations give your surface area which is useless. I have been checking the areas manually as a reality check. Nothing like learning while doing. Youtube videos are very helpful but you find your own recipes as you go. More later, thanks for looking.

I was on top of the world for a while! The bike has been running good buut I made a mistake and fell off a rock breaking some ribs. I figure now was a good time to try to make some improvements. I received some Betor fork upgrade parts from Gerry M. in the UK (which I have done nothing with so far (Get well soon to Gerry) and decided to make a new pipe and lower the cylinder by 1.0mm to lower the RPM of peak power. I made the belly of the pipe much smaller and decreased the angle of both the cones. I took one quick painful test ride and the modification eliminated the hit at high RPM and added a little at low revs. I had been running without a base gasket for a while (.5mm) so I decided to remove 1.5mm from thee bottom of the cylinder and add the base gasket back for 1mm drop. I also machined away 1.5mm of squish band. During that process I also opened up the clutch cush drive and found the bumpers were shot. I took apart a second one and added all solids rather than the torus (donut) shaped parts so there is no more play Cylinder mod then cush drive rebuild. Next thing was to add the squish band clearance to the head. I drilled a 160mm disc with six holes and put it in a buck chuck (four jaw) Even before I started shaving the cylinder my carb was still contacting the gearbox and probably causing issues. I took this opportunity to raise the carb flange about 6mm my rotating the spigot up about 6mm at the bolt hole. I failed to get a photo of the finished product.

That is very interesting. I am totally stumbling though the design process but this info cuts out a lot of the variables. I should make a shorter header see what the effect is.